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Thread: ...Turbo C230K Dyno tuning...

  1. #26
    Moderator Pagz's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Proven Guilty
    ughhh that sucks! are you sure you're looking at piston rings? does the smoke ever dissapear after you warm up? if so, i think you may be right with the valve guides.. the chevy blocks will comsume oil from the valve guides leaking, and once it burns off, no harm no foul.

    do you hear any piston slap at all if you cold start? i'm hopeing its only valve guides or rings, but dude that shit sucks.
    Hey PG,
    Excuse the late reply have been shifting house,+ havent had a net connection because of it...

    its still blowing blue,each piston appares to have some oil on top of it..so it looks like the rings never bed in properly...its not blowing much and blows nothing under power or cruise so will order the larger turbine housing this week,remove the manifold and see if we can make the waste alittle more free flowing,sort out all other issues before we decide on opening her again!!
    there is alittle piston slap when its cold,you can only just hear it.

    heres one of the dyno runs,it wasnt the highest output we got,but it best shows whats going on...



    Cheers all for the comments,will hopfully post up more when i know...its all in storage atm because we dont have a garage...need to get one asap


    paul
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  2. #27
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    good luck with the car and the moving.

  3. #28
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    Originally posted by Green Lantern
    good luck with the car and the moving.
    Thanks mang=)
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  4. #29
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    Hey Paul, regarding the blue smoke (i.e. oil consumption), i'm quite sure it's got to do with improper ring-seating because...

    What exactly did the guys do? did they bore the sleeves out or did they just hone them? Cos apparently every MB engine since the late 80s got a silica coating on the sleeves, which drastically reduced friction and extended the life of the sleeve and rings. but the same time is very expensive to re-do, besides most engineers don't know about it. Apparently if this silica coating isn't put back/applied after a mod to the sleeves, one can expect irregular ring-seating and excessive ring/sleeve wear. Did you guys take this into consideration?
    If you don\'t do it properly, don\'t waste our time!!

    The C280

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  5. #30
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    Originally posted by C280/////AMG
    Hey Paul, regarding the blue smoke (i.e. oil consumption), i'm quite sure it's got to do with improper ring-seating because...

    What exactly did the guys do? did they bore the sleeves out or did they just hone them? Cos apparently every MB engine since the late 80s got a silica coating on the sleeves, which drastically reduced friction and extended the life of the sleeve and rings. but the same time is very expensive to re-do, besides most engineers don't know about it. Apparently if this silica coating isn't put back/applied after a mod to the sleeves, one can expect irregular ring-seating and excessive ring/sleeve wear. Did you guys take this into consideration?
    Interesting,there are no sleeves as such,the block was only honed!,will look into this alittle more,thanks!
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  6. #31
    Hi Paul,
    are you experiencing excessive weight on the right side of the car? since your is right-handed like mine.
    if so, have u done anything to balance out the car?

  7. #32
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    Originally posted by pisit
    Hi Paul,
    are you experiencing excessive weight on the right side of the car? since your is right-handed like mine.
    if so, have u done anything to balance out the car?
    Hey,
    Yeh mine sits lower on the right hand side too,without me in it.
    im guessing its weight but not completely sure without somehow independantly weighing each side...

    You could purchase the KW suspension kit...then you could adjust ride height either side to suit.
    the cheap option would be to use spring pads...but i dont want to raise my lower side=) ...or cut the springs on the higher side...but thats alittle rough too.

    Hows the turbo setup running?...this week i got my RPM signal back up for the cluster...however when the sensor is connected to the OE ecu before startup it interfares with the motec for some reason...have had the scope on it but so far no clear picture of whats causing it.

    Laters,
    Paul
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  8. #33
    Hi Paul,
    same here, don't wanna use the spring pad option neither.

    well i just put myself in a adventurous position again. I've noticed that my wastegate actuator was in a bad shape for a while so i change a new one. The problem was the boost rouse up to 13 psi, which was way too high for a standard engine with a compression rate of a c220 engine. i'm checking out the gasket from C230K engine as well, don't know if it's gonna fit or not.

    I've also ordered the HKS EVC 5, the new electronic boost controller. which it's also compatible with F-CON SZ where the tuner can use both PowerWriter (fuel/ignition) and EasyWriter (boost) to map with load/rpm spontaneous.

    Also i'm gonna do some research on manual transmission swapping, but not gonna have it in any time soon.

  9. #34
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    Hey,
    all Sounds good man,
    Im not sure if there will be much difference in the head gasket on the C230K...more than likely the same!?
    >>00 C43 Black w/birch Black. Immaculate
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  10. #35
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    I have not logged in for a very long time, I just wanted to say congrats on this car. Last I rremember, shop was taking forever fabbing the manifold. Man thats a beast. And sexy too!

  11. #36
    Hi Paul,
    one quick question, what manual transmission fluid are you using?
    Redline?
    i just got mine swop to a 5-speed manual so was looking for a high-quality synthetic oil for it.
    Cheers,
    Troy

  12. #37
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    you are supposed to run an atf style fluid, aparantly it has something to do with syncro life.
    but yea good question, what fluid u running.

    how u finding the new manual cog swapper there pisit?
    -Logan-

  13. #38
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    anyone come with a final cost on a turbo set up for a c230k
    Theres a demon in my car i tell yah....its name is KOMPRESSOR lmfao

  14. #39
    Originally posted by c280nz
    you are supposed to run an atf style fluid, aparantly it has something to do with syncro life.
    but yea good question, what fluid u running.

    how u finding the new manual cog swapper there pisit?
    Hi Logan,
    got the gear from germany from what the mechanic told me, driving is good, 1st and 2nd gear are a bit to short from my opinion. Still having a slight problem with the clutch and the position of the peddle and how i sit. didn't cost as much as i thought around 1.1k USD labour cost included.

    yeah heard that they require ATF as well, but just wanna confirm with someone is been using it for a while. from a MB qualification would be 236.2/6, but i was looking for sth else. so i think i would need to look for a Dexron IID or IIE grade if i wanna go fully-synthetic.

  15. #40
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    Originally posted by pisit
    Hi Paul,
    one quick question, what manual transmission fluid are you using?
    Redline?
    i just got mine swop to a 5-speed manual so was looking for a high-quality synthetic oil for it.
    Cheers,
    Troy
    Hey Troy,
    Im running Redline synthetic i think is D4 - ATF,Runs really well!.
    Also Run Redline synthetic in the diff...think it was 70/90...hmm its been to long since i worked on her =)

    Hows the manual transmission?...mine no longer handles the Hp,i have to be on a slight downhill slope for it to not slip in 3rd/4th...
    i would guess your not far from having this problem as well =)

    Cheers,
    Paul
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  16. #41
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    Originally posted by Under Pressure
    I have not logged in for a very long time, I just wanted to say congrats on this car. Last I rremember, shop was taking forever fabbing the manifold. Man thats a beast. And sexy too!
    Thanks man=)
    Still lots of problems to iron out...will def get there one day =D
    >>00 C43 Black w/birch Black. Immaculate
    >>99 C43 Silver w/CLK55 package
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    >>89 2.6 RED w/16vkit. POS
    >>Old Turbo 2.3 History >>Old Turbo 2.3 Video

  17. #42
    Originally posted by 23K
    Hey Troy,
    Im running Redline synthetic i think is D4 - ATF,Runs really well!.
    Also Run Redline synthetic in the diff...think it was 70/90...hmm its been to long since i worked on her =)

    Hows the manual transmission?...mine no longer handles the Hp,i have to be on a slight downhill slope for it to not slip in 3rd/4th...
    i would guess your not far from having this problem as well =)

    Cheers,
    Paul
    I'm using Valvoline synthetic gear oil now, much smoother shift . however still thinking of using Redline or Mobil.

    having problem with the clutch slipping alot too. doesn't seem like it's doing its job well. i've just got my rebuild clutch plate y'day which i asked them to use copper material instead. will have it install this weekend and see how it runs.

    im using the OEM cover clutch now, still want the light pedal feel. but if it's not handling the hp like urs, guess i've no other choice:bored:

  18. #43
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    Originally posted by 23K
    Hey Troy,
    Im running Redline synthetic i think is D4 - ATF,Runs really well!.
    Also Run Redline synthetic in the diff...think it was 70/90...hmm its been to long since i worked on her =)

    Hows the manual transmission?...mine no longer handles the Hp,i have to be on a slight downhill slope for it to not slip in 3rd/4th...
    i would guess your not far from having this problem as well =)

    Cheers,
    Paul
    slipping out of third and fourth? can you hold it in or does it just pop out? here is a few pics, mite be time to strip that be-arch down and replace a few parts.

    -Logan-

  19. #44
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    Originally posted by c280nz
    slipping out of third and fourth? can you hold it in or does it just pop out? here is a few pics, mite be time to strip that be-arch down and replace a few parts.

    Hey logan,
    The gearbox is going strong so far,just clutch is slipping!

    nice pics btw =)

    so the selector arm was worn on yours?,so you brased it and filed it back to fit snug?
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  20. #45
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    Originally posted by pisit
    I'm using Valvoline synthetic gear oil now, much smoother shift . however still thinking of using Redline or Mobil.

    having problem with the clutch slipping alot too. doesn't seem like it's doing its job well. i've just got my rebuild clutch plate y'day which i asked them to use copper material instead. will have it install this weekend and see how it runs.

    im using the OEM cover clutch now, still want the light pedal feel. but if it's not handling the hp like urs, guess i've no other choice:bored:
    Cool,so thats a custom friction disk?
    ...doesnt the OE plate have a sprung centre?
    I guess is doesnt really matter if the new one does or doesnt have it as the dual mass flywheel does the job anyway.

    Let me know how you get on this may be the easiest way for me to solve my slip too,as im not keen on a heavier pedal!
    4-puck should be pretty grippy i would think?...maybe 6 might still grip and be alittle smoother?
    >>00 C43 Black w/birch Black. Immaculate
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  21. #46
    so you have roughly 300bhp from your c230


    that is what im talkin about

  22. #47
    Originally posted by 23K
    Cool,so thats a custom friction disk?
    ...doesnt the OE plate have a sprung centre?
    I guess is doesnt really matter if the new one does or doesnt have it as the dual mass flywheel does the job anyway.

    Let me know how you get on this may be the easiest way for me to solve my slip too,as im not keen on a heavier pedal!
    4-puck should be pretty grippy i would think?...maybe 6 might still grip and be alittle smoother?
    hi Pual,
    gripping is superb, but very difficult to get the car roll in first gear especially in traffic. i would reckon to go for the 6 puck.
    the OE clutch is a solid plate so, and as u've said the dual mass does it job, not that good though but tolerable. at first i can't find the rhythm of clutch and throttle, make driving very jumpy indeed.
    anywayz, changing the clutch help in my case, but i have sth new to think abt again:bored: seem like there's very little traction at the rear, wheel spin from 1-3 gear
    well don't know is that good thing or bad thing. oh well, i expected more from a 255 tyre

  23. #48
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    im sorry for posting those pics paul i miss took a coment and thought you ment your gearbox was slipping out of gear, not your clutch my bad

    and yea the stock clutch disk is solid centre, because the dual mass takes up all the vibration.
    nice clutch pisit
    -Logan-

  24. #49
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    Originally posted by c280nz
    im sorry for posting those pics paul i miss took a coment and thought you ment your gearbox was slipping out of gear, not your clutch my bad

    and yea the stock clutch disk is solid centre, because the dual mass takes up all the vibration.
    nice clutch pisit
    All good,hey so was the selector arm was worn on yours causing it to slip out of gear?...Iv never worked on the internals of a manual transmission myself before,this is interesting stuff =)
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  25. #50
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    Originally posted by pisit
    hi Pual,
    gripping is superb, but very difficult to get the car roll in first gear especially in traffic. i would reckon to go for the 6 puck.
    the OE clutch is a solid plate so, and as u've said the dual mass does it job, not that good though but tolerable. at first i can't find the rhythm of clutch and throttle, make driving very jumpy indeed.
    anywayz, changing the clutch help in my case, but i have sth new to think abt again:bored: seem like there's very little traction at the rear, wheel spin from 1-3 gear
    well don't know is that good thing or bad thing. oh well, i expected more from a 255 tyre
    Hey!,ahh thought that may be the case...its fairly common to hear of people having drivabilty trouble with those puck clutches!,give it some time you might get used to it or it will bed in and be slightly smoother maybe,and i guess you could try a 6 puck or more if all else fails.


    haha no traction with 255's!!!,you must be running some really decent hp now? =)
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