Well it makes it quite difficult i guess, id imagine they did it to limit who can diagnose faults with the cars.Originally Posted by kowalski
On the US spec models we still have the OBD2 connector.
But in your case you need something MB specific with 38-pin.
I'm willing to bet your problem lies with etc adaptation, from all the type 6's I've had, they don't like cold. So cold thick oil = all sorts of funny stuff.
Youll have to tell me what youre refering to when you say "etc adaptation".
But as far as cold goes, its not been cold here for many months. 26°c was the over night low. This issue is not caused by cold weather.
The oil is Mobil 1 5w50, it wont be thick at 20°c plus. Its summer here in Australia, it doesnt even get cold in winter!!
The type 6 transmission is constantly adapting to driving manner. So grandpa driving = up shifting early on ect.
Resetting may help, or drive it hard for a week.
Though its not for sure, just a guess. I'm trying to picture what can be happening. It's almost like its running more on the rich side as well as running richer for a faster cold warm-up, I'm assuming euro spec do that as well to warm up cats fast as possible.
Ok, i see. I did post previously stating its clearly not a transmission issue, ive allready reset it, and that it improved shift points. I drive it pretty hard all the time!! Thats what i bought it for :lol:
I cant see how a transmission is going to cause engine anomolies
There is no black soot coming out the back end, so im not sure if its going rich or just lacking torque to rev up quickly for another reason.
Cheers mate
Apologize, yea you did state your transmission was in working order. That's just the first thought that came to my mind.
How severely slow @ cold take-off is it ? Say ... 15% slower then when warm ?
No appology required my friend
Id say more around 35-50%, but it seems to run smooth.
Im out at the car now, just removed the cover, the butterflies move easily, started the car and expected they would change state, but no.
I would expect they should be pulled shut at idle?
Looking further, the hoses are perfectly good, sucking on the diaphram causes it to operate.
At idle, there is no vacuum beyond the electronic coil. If i rev up the engine the valve will change state, as in the diaphram pulls in.
Here is where it sits by default:
Sounds like the manifold is working correctly!
35-50% is a lot,with no codes its wanting to limit torque for some reason!
Hmm
Last edited by Pagz; 01-25-2014 at 07:41 PM.
>>00 C43 Black w/birch Black. Immaculate
>>99 C43 Silver w/CLK55 package
>>99 S202 RED 250TD Daily.
>>89 2.6 RED w/16vkit. POS
>>Old Turbo 2.3 History >>Old Turbo 2.3 Video
No idea why really, id expect if it was worn plugs it would do it hot or cold.
Ive never seen any other car that wouldnt let me drive the ring off it straight from cold start!!
What seems most unusual about this is if i let the car sit and idle for just five minutes, no issue at all. It takes at least five minutes of driving to correct if i just go straight away.
Now although this car is f***en great and quite powerful, i can see myself wanting to grab a W210 E55 soon and swap the engines over!!
E55s here are much cheaper than C43s, but a low klms E55 isnt easy to find, where as most C43s here havent been much further than mine.
in australija are them w210 E55 AMG cars considered as rustbuckets?
in europe these cars are very rust sensitive.
worst car MB ever built!
where's your interior and exterior pictures of your car?
Yes there is though you would need to get the 38 pin to OBD2 and an ELM 327 blue tooth adapter. Its good for live data and stuff. I would suggest you get car soft 7.4 it's cheap and works very well for the entire body and Egs air con etc. Only problem is you would need a laptop with the old 9 pin native serial port.
Havent had a day off yet so i havent had time to post any.
Not as far as i know, never heard of the W210s having any issues at all apart from wiring on the older ones, but thats wasnt just the E that had that issue.
Cheers mate, i dont think my old laptop has RS232 on it, id have to check it out. The older one i used to use for Corvettes is dead.
problems were electrical or rust issues
they got a little better after the facelift but still not perfect.
maybe w210 cars doesn't rust in Australia as the climate is a lot better down under?
No idea mate yeah, rust hasnt ever been an issue ive heard of with them here. Ive heard of the W210s rusting out around the tops of the front springs, but again, never heard of it here. My 95 C180 got vandalised about 5 years ago and i never got it fixed, there is still only very minor surface rust where they went through the paint. I dont know how the South African built cars here hold up, i did some repairs on a 98 C180 here a couple tears ago for someone at work after the service center they used broke the air intake at the rubber joiner and it was sucking air after the MAF, adding to that they used the wrong spark plugs... That particular car has had a few issues ive never ever seen on a German built version.
Just had a reasonably exciting drive home, this car pulls so well out of corners and just stays perfectly planted. The lack of an LSD was something that initially concerned me abit, but it probably helps abit of corner exits. The 255 Michelin Pilots on the rear probably help alot too. I must say the lack of an LSD isnt the issue i expected it would be at all.
I'm learning so much about Euro, Aussie, and African MB's from this thread.
Can't imagine why the w210 would have such rust issues up there, kowalski. I've never seen a 210 in the US with a spot of rust on it. My w202 acquired 238,000 miles driving between TN and Florida, the wettest part of the US, and has not one single spot of rust!
Anyway, I'm off topic. Any news on your cold-running issue?
94 C280, 250k miles, 1999-2011 (gone, never forgotten)
CURRENT:
744 Silver 99 C43 AMG, 260k miles, 2011-
040 Black 98 C43 AMG, 190k miles, 2013-
Damn up to 50% slower is a bit mind numbing. Getting good fuel pressure cold vs. hot?
Nah mate no news, and i wouldnt worry about going abit off topic, it doesnt bother me either way
Well id assume so cause once it hits 4,000rpm it goes as good as warmed up, so i cant see where that would be a concern. What makes it so difficult to figure is the fact it appears as though the egine is running quite smoothly, just not the usual power id expect in that rev range. Its easily noticed too.
Pics are posted in the gallery by the way
Tons of rusty 210s up here in New England (the amount of road salt they use is pretty extreme).
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VISIT THE W201nW202 YOUTUBE PAGE:
http://www.youtube.com/user/W201n202
1999 Mercedes C230 Kompressor / Rust Bucket, No MODS
2001 Mercedes E430 Sport
2009 Toyota Camry Hybrid
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fold down the upper rubber seals on all 4 doors and you will probably find lots of cancer rot.
this is a hidden rust spot in european cold climate countries.
MB had warranty recalls on most cars which was affected by rot, they cutout panels replaced with new panels then repainted cars, after a few years many cars rusted again.
poor buildquality with the lack of rustcoating baths at the factory beacuse MB had to sink in money into a bleeding Chrysler company, factory bosses let MB brand detoriate and Herr Hitler and all the dead dictators turned a few rounds of disapointment in their graves knowing that MB reputation was not what it used to be anymore.
w210 has lots of hidden rustspots, when buying a w210 car needs a proper healthy checkout
Last edited by kowalski; 01-26-2014 at 10:29 AM.
Yeah id only be buying for the 55 engine, then reselling it again!!
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