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Thread: Port and polishing

  1. #1
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    Port and polishing

    So head is off the. Car and my father and I are going to port and polish the head more on exhaust side than anything
    I shouldn't see any issues with the ecu other than seeing more powaaa lol seriously these heads are very ruff as far as casting goes Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Senior Member Dearlove's Avatar
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    What car and engine?

    I'm in mobile version so I can't see if it's in your profile

  3. #3
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    Oh sorry lol 2000 c230 kompressor sport
    I'm also having a 230 mm crank pulley made ( nice thing about making the pulley biger.. if it to big I can make it smaller not the other way round..lol )I know port and polish on a boosted car will loose boost but it will be more efficient boost I should see a very small gain at the crank but adding the pulley to be around 11-13 psi will wake it up some from what I'm reading on just the pulley being done

  4. #4
    On a supercharged engine decreasing boost will mean more flow -> less parasitic loss from the charger -> MORE HP, unless it's caused by a slipping belt or boost leak .

  5. #5
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    ^ yep
    not exactly accurate but I get what ya saying
    stock where I'm at is 8psi, after porting the head ill maby see a drop in 1-2 psi but with better flow =more optimized
    just doing this would get me maby a few poneys, however I'm upping the boost at the same time witch will yield even better results on top of that
    ill be doing the crank pulley with the head being ported and polished
    not really messing with the intake so the fuel atomizes properly
    I did get the head back from the shop (was slightly warped where leakage was occurring )\

    on top of all this I already have a full exhaust dynacomp header 4-1 and 3 to2 1/2 in exhaust
    the exhaust side on my car is on point
    after all this I will be redoing to a much better intercooler same sizing just better flowing intercooler
    Last edited by vaspen; 01-26-2016 at 09:51 AM.

  6. #6
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    here is another update on my head got all 4 done with 80 grit tomorrow I will redo in 100? grit I forget the exact grit then ill do them back over in 160 grit I believe
    these were my first attempt on them by myself to get a handle on it today my father showed me some techniques and I have them looking way better even with just being 80 grit
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ID:	2936 _intake side will only remove that little lip or debating on doing it to just 80 grit but I like how well it would atomize the fuel
    Last edited by vaspen; 02-11-2016 at 01:47 PM.

  7. #7
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    again these are only my very first attempt I will have more piks soon of a better job 4 hrs into it now
    Last edited by vaspen; 02-11-2016 at 01:56 PM.

  8. #8
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  9. #9
    I would suggest opening up the intake side too while you're at it. No point in doing just the exhaust. The exhaust side doesn't need more than 75% flow of the intake.

    Seriously, are you talking about fuel atomization on a port fuel injected engine...

  10. #10
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    I'll probably do the roof and leave the floor of it alone
    Been reading up on how to do a good intake side

  11. #11
    You can thin the divider and open up the sides too. Yes the floor should keep the radius.

  12. #12
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  13. #13
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    I kept digging but the heads have a lot of casting defects and I didn't wana go thru the wall so I just smoothed it up realy good
    Last edited by vaspen; 07-04-2016 at 01:18 PM.

  14. #14
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    I would suggest buying some Standard Abrasives "Cross buffs" and cleaning it up. They will dramatically smooth out your imperfections with the sanding disks.

  15. #15
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    Here- I did a search for them on youtube and this Edelbrock video popped up where it shows them using the cross buffs at around 30 seconds in to polish the final product. These work extremely well and are pretty much necessary

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nW_earyBnuw


    They sell both medium and fine cross buffs at Summit. These very fine ones should be used to finish the project including final buffing the chamber and the valve heads.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sai-265024/overview/
    Last edited by Vetruck; 07-05-2016 at 08:24 AM.

  16. #16
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    the nice thing is for me there is a surplus sanding place in the next town over I literally spent maby 100$ on sanding material excluding the air tools
    but vetruck I wasn't looking for race quality port and polish but it is still miles better than what they were
    summit prices were cheaper slightly but instant gratification well....

  17. #17
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    oh and the cross buffs I ended up using something very close to those but they were perfect size to the holes cant remember the name of them but they ranged from 60-320? grit

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