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Thread: H&R Sport Cup Kit (31007-1) 60mm/40mm "Sportfahrwerk" Thread

  1. #1
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    H&R Sport Cup Kit (31007-1) 60mm/40mm "Sportfahrwerk" Thread

    Hi all. I am a new member here who just bought a 2000 C230 Kompressor Classic Edition. Found a mint one with only 28,000 miles on it.

    I was hoping to gain more info from members on the 60mm/40mm H&R Sport Cup Kit 31007-1. I have already really searched the forum and didn't see a dedicated thread or discussion on this kit. I also searched the general internet and found random spotty info on it and any w202's that did it and what their thoughts and wheel/tire setup was.

    I was wondering if members here could weigh in, post any pics of it installed, provide opinions etc?

    I am curious what it looks like installed and also to hear what wheel and tire sizes you went with, and if you had to roll your fenders or not.

    After almost ordering the H&R sport springs and bilstein sport shocks I decided on a more aggressive lower as I like the positive rake of a 60/40 and just ordered the kit and am shopping for wheels but prefer not to roll my fenders so was thinking of sticking with 17"x8 offset 35 wheels in the front and 17"x9 offset 30 in the rear. Tire sizes perhaps front 225 (or 215)-40-17 and rear 235 (or 245)-35-17

    Your input is greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Here is the main link I've been checking out of a guy that looks like he has the kit. When I translated the page it sounds like he had to roll the fenders but he has wider rims than I am looking at.

    To be safe I'm looking at 17's, wonder if I could consider 18's at all without issue?

    http://www.mercedes-fans.de/magazin/...ps-und-db.9154

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  3. #3
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    Well, just got an email from the seller in Germany who said they cannot get this anymore. It was a really good price I paid so maybe they realized they sold it too cheap when they went to get it from another vendor. In any case back to square one. I'll now research on here the different setups, H&R sport springs and bilstein sport shocks seem to be the most popular but will check out all combos.

    This is still likely a relevant thread for people to weigh in on the sport cup kit which does look really cool.

  4. #4
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    Hi, Nice score on the low mileage car. Sorry I've been away for awhile.

    My suggestion without trying to offend anyone is to stay the hell away from Bilsteins. Ive preached Koni's for years on pretty much anything performance. I went against my popular belief recently with the acqusition of a little Chey S10 pickup and blew $400.00+ on a set of Bilsteins for it since no koni direct fit application is available. Looking for something quick and easy for a daily driver - Bilsteins are crap...period. I might as well bought Monroe shocks they are that terrible. I would never pit this crap on a performance oriented car. Seriously on a scale of 1-10 the trucks ride quality and performance value went from a 3 to a 4. Buy Koni's trust me.

    As for Springs. H&R are about the same as anyone else. The importance of any combination is shocks period. Any spring is decent behind a good shock.

    I have 18's on my car and recently went from 215-40-18 fronts/ 245-35-18 rears to 225/255 tires and the rears rub a little. Next tire going back to a 215/245 combo like I first had for several years no issues. Wheels are 18x 8.5 fronts and 18 x 9.5 rears.

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    Thanks for the advice. Actually saw a Koni spring and shocks combo on ebay from Germany. Looks tempting and does the 40mm/40mm lower. I wonder if it's any good.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Koni-STR-T-F...9Us486&vxp=mtr

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canada202 View Post
    Thanks for the advice. Actually saw a Koni spring and shocks combo on ebay from Germany. Looks tempting and does the 40mm/40mm lower. I wonder if it's any good.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Koni-STR-T-F...9Us486&vxp=mtr
    I diid not know Koni was making that crap. Koni has always had mono and twin tube shocks in yellow (racing) and red (street sport). These new Orange aare stated as an entry level shock and are nothing better then an OEM replacement. The reds are piss poor enough for any spirited driving. I would go yellows and nothing else. Also the Monotubes are a much better quality shock then the twin tubes because they reduce operating heat and reduce foaming of the oil, however, the twin tubes are easier adjusted without removal from the car. I run Monotubes on ever car I own except for a crappy s10 work truck.

    Just my 2 cents, but an experienced 2 cents.You want performance? Buy Koni yellows. anything else is a sacrifice. Shocks and tires are the most important two purchases in handling. Spend all of your money there.

    Matter of fact, I would seriously rather have a car with Koni Yellows and cut down factory springs then a car with any other shocks (over-the-counter comparison) and aftermarket springs. Shocks are THAT important.

  7. #7
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    All I can add is if you are after a stiff sport handling, don't get Vogtlands. They are soft. I have Vogtlands on my C36 with the smallest pads, and while it looks great, rides nice, when you get after it in the corners they're too damn soft. My buddy put Vogtlands on his E30, same, too soft.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Livermoron View Post
    All I can add is if you are after a stiff sport handling, don't get Vogtlands. They are soft. I have Vogtlands on my C36 with the smallest pads, and while it looks great, rides nice, when you get after it in the corners they're too damn soft. My buddy put Vogtlands on his E30, same, too soft.

    people complaint about H&R Super Sport being very very harsh.
    are these springs a lot stiffer than Vogtlands?
    I have vogtlands on my C43 and love the performance, I don't take corners like a car thief as I don't want to fook up my car

  9. #9
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    Thanks for all the feedback, very helpful!

    The front of my car seems higher than the back so thinking of the Vogtland 40/25's (#952078) and then deciding on a shock to go with it, maybe the Koni yellows.

    I did notice Vogtland sells a spring and shock combo, what do you guys think:


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vogtland-Sus...pWVz7d&vxp=mtr

  10. #10
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    I decided to purchase and have now had the Vogtland shocks and springs installed. Am pleased with how it came out and the amount that it lowered the front and the rear. Here is a pic I was able to snap after the job.

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    A few days later went to test fit some wheels. They are 8.5" and 9.5" WCI CC10's with I believe 35 ET front and 32 ET rear, going to wrap them with 225/40 and 255/35. Had an issue with the front centrecap fitting as there is a "dust cap or grease cap" on the front which sticks out quite a bit through the centre of the wheel and prevents the centrecap from fitting over it. Will likely have to run some spacers to make the wheel come out further so it can snap on. Rear was sealed and didn't have one.

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    Will be doing a final test fit in a few days once the rubber is on, hoping not to have to roll the fenders but we'll see.

  11. #11
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    what pads did you go for?
    I have #1 Front #4 Rear

  12. #12
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    My advice is to just remove the front bearing grease cap entirely and just run the wheel cap. I have done this on several cars over years and never had issues with grease coming out of the wheel bearings. It is really only important that there is some type of cover so water/mud/debris can't splash into there. The wheel cap will prevent that by itself.

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    Thanks for sure the back of the wheel mounts flush against the vehicle and the center cap also has a rubber seal so inside seems to be pretty much sealed. Also I'm only going to summer drive this car so not much salt or snow is going to get in there. To clear that dust cap I'd need to run huge spacers and don't want to do that. Plus with a 10mm or higher spacer the rubber would stick out much further than I could pull the fender by myself.

    For spring pads I asked about that but ended up using whatever the stock setup had? The mechanic who did the suspension job said we could just work with what was there. Not sure if those are needed as a part of a lower job or just to adjust the final height but I'm really happy with where the height ended up and don't want to raise or lower it.

    To provide an update the rubber got put on and I fitted the wheels to the vehicle and it looked amazing. Needed to use a 5mm spacer to even clear the bearing hardware behind the dust cap so the centre cap could snap on. Even with just a 5mm spacer the front fender was overtop of the rubber and on the front corner of the fender where it meets the plastic bumper was rubbing the tire should the car hit a bump so had to roll and pull my fenders to clear the rubber. I was going to take it to a body shop and they advised that I first try myself to literally pull out the fender with my hands and work it outwards. Well I tried it that a couple days ago and it worked like a charm, came out bit by bit and in the end looked perfect and the fenders ended up clearing the rubber and you cannot tell at all they were pulled out it came out really well and even. Plus doing that I didn't have to roll my fenders inside as that would likely make the paint crack bending them that much. Test drove it after and purposely hit some pretty big bumps and no issues.

    Using a 5mm spacer and the new alloy wheels the shop gave me longer 40mm 12x1.5 bolts. I'm going to take one out on the front and rear to double check they have enough turns and are long enough but I think they are ok.

    I'm pretty excited about the new setup, was going to run 8" wheels all around and now instead accomplished an awesome staggered setup with the 9.5's in the rear, being concave you can really tell they are different wheels as the backs bowl in so much more. Front and back wheels are exactly flush with the body and it looks like a professional fitment job and is really tucked. Really glad I went with the 40mm lower in the front vs the H&R Sport Cup Kit I originally ordered that had 60mm in the front, I'm sure it would have looked awesome but would have been too aggressive for me or likely for these wider wheels. My front now has zero finger gap, I have to point my finger upwards so the tire is already up inside the fender a bit, another 1" lower I would have had to get a body shop to do some more serious work to fit these wheels I think.

    I couldn't find many good pics of any w202's with WCI CC10 wheels so will post a couple here. In person they look even better, sort of keeping with the monoblock or bigger spoke style but having a bit of a unique edge to them. Didn't put the WCI center caps on and am going to source out a 62mm Mercedes center cap instead.

    Thanks for all the help so far, pretty excited about where the car has ended up! It's now just such a clean and tight German sedan. Got a lot of looks already on the road It'll be winter parked now until May and I'll give it a final wash in the garage and baby it all winter and likely continue to mod it with a couple more things while its parked.
    Last edited by Canada202; 12-24-2016 at 06:36 AM.

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    Last edited by Canada202; 12-24-2016 at 06:37 AM.

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    Although I'm happy they had the wheels, the wheel shop I dealt with that's actually quite recommended here was pretty brutal. They mounted the wheels and when I left it wobbled really bad so I went back, they then rebalanced the wheels and put everything back on and it still did it and were all scratching their head. I asked how the wheels were mounted and they had mounted them like this:

    - cheap Chinese 5mm universal spacer non-hub centric just floating around
    - they used BALL seat bolts on the wheel that requires conical bolts
    - the wheel center bore is 74.1 and they didn't use a hub centric ring to bring them down to 66.6

    Here is what I suggested (not being a wheel guy or having much background in it):
    - use a hub centric 5x112 66.6 5mm spacer
    - use a hub centric 74.1 to 66.6 ring
    - use conical bolts

    The stuff is on order and I put my old wheels on for now. I was wondering though, my car's 66.6 hub is 10-11mm long and with the 5mm spacer will have about 5mm or 6mm left for the wheel/hub centric ring to seat on. Is 5-6mm enough for it to seat on do you think?

    Thanks
    Last edited by Canada202; 12-24-2016 at 01:09 PM.

  16. #16
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    Doesn't sound professional at all. That is pretty scary practices for a so called wheel shop. Using the wrong seat on the bolts can cause loss of a wheel within a few miles- very dangerous not having them matched surface area from the bolts to the wheel sockets. They will not torque properly and IS in fact the reason the wheels drive with a wobble feel.

    A plastic hub centric ring reducing the wheel center bore to match the hub is very common so you will be fine there. 5mm is still plenty adequate a hub lip for the ring to seat on and center the wheel properly in order to torque the lug bolts into place.

    I actually replaced my lugbolts with aftermarket wheel studs and lug nuts so I did not have to worry about lug bolt lengths and them grounding out into the hub (thus potentially not torquing properly. Just food for thought(I have a thread on here when I replaced my wheel studs)

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    Thanks very much. The experience with that place just keeps getting worse... Really upset I entrusted them with everything to this point but that's why you go to a wheel store if you're not an expert and have had to find all these things out myself. To make matters worse I was looking at the wheels today and testing out conical bolts in them and discovered that because they grinded ball seat bolts into the conical seats (and had me drive on this) that it has most likely wrecked the conical seats now as conical bolts have play in some of the holes/seats. Some seats are worse than others, some are basically grinded out bigger/wider where other ones just have channels grooved into them etc. Now it's not just a matter of fitting these with hub centric rings and spacers, the wheels are definitely devalued and likely unsafe as conicals wont seat properly either.

    This is completely not my fault and am going to demand they take these ruined wheels back for a refund. What a joke. They are now closed until Jan 7th so too bad I can't go resolve it now because am pretty annoyed. Plus found out the wheels are ET 10 and 15, where they said they were 32 and 35. Maybe that's why the center cap wouldn't have fit over the dust cap?

    Back to the drawing board for wheels.

  18. #18
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    Definitely a small claims lawsuit threat if they do not refund you 100%. Make sure you have receipts and document everything with dates, times, names and receipts- if they refuse to compy to the refund, then make copies (do not send originals) and send it to them certified letter asking for a refund within a few days or you will pursue small claims.

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    No kidding. Wheels now returned for full refund.

    Thinking about maybe some Rotiforms instead, but whatever the case going to make sure this time they fit like a glove if I'm paying for brand new wheels. Rather than order anything over the net going to go another wheel store to ensure everything is good to go for fitment with proper mounting to the hub, offset, would like not to do a spacer and front wheel clearing the dust cap.

    EDIT: Ordered a set of new Rotiform TMB wheels that should mount up right and be a good fit to the car. Went for a staggered setup and will post pics when they are on. Thanks again for all the replies.
    Last edited by Canada202; 02-04-2017 at 06:04 AM. Reason: Add to post

  20. #20
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    Here are some pics of the Rotiforms on my car.

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