i did a search and a member said it should be an easy DIY job. has anyone out there replaced their front lower ball joints by themselves? i ordered the part, but im still deciding if i should do it myself or take to to a shop. anyone have experience on this?
It's a relatively easy job on a 202, but you will need a proper separator to release the tapered portions once the bolts are undone. If you are lacking in tools, particularly a torque wrench to do the new nuts up properly, you should think about letting a shop do it unless you are willing to make these additions to your tool box.
i have a torque wrench but can u give me more info on the seperator?
Ball joints and tie rod ends are secured by a single nut on a threaded shaft. The threaded shaft is smooth and tapered as it goes through what it attaches to. The hole it goes into is also tapered and when these pieces are torqued properly, an interference fit results that will lock the parts together quite securely, rust or not.
2 problems can arise while doing this job:
1) the nut is so rusted on that breaking it loose dislodges the tapered interference fit - this will result in further attempts to remove the nut just spinning the ball joint in it's socket. A torch will be the most effective tool at this point.
2) The nut has been overtorqued, causing real problems dislodging the taper.
You need the correct tool to release the tapered interference fit. There are typically 2 types.
1) A "pickle fork", which is a 2 pronged wedge shaped fork, which is placed on the back side of the joint and flogged HARD, causing the joint to break loose. Avoid this tool, as it destroys the seal and can cause damage to the ball and socket joint too. This is not usually a problem, but in the case where you are not successful, you will want to retighten the nut and take the car to a pro. Damage from the pickle fork can in rare cases make driving the car iffy.
2) a tool that is a small scissor shaped affair that has a hardened bolt to force the jaws together and break the joint loose. This is the best type, but get under your car and make a few measurements or photos so you can be sure the one you select will fit the size of joint you are working on.
A tip: Only back the nut off to the end of the threads. Do not remove it. This will give you a surface to bear against for the tool without trashing the threads. This again will allow you to reverse your moves and drive the car if necessary to have someone else do the work. The tapered joint does not need much actual displacement to break completely free. The nut still being on the threads will not interfere with this and you can just spin it completely off when the joint is cracked loose. Resist the temptation to pound on the nut and joint directly to break it loose. It seldom works, and again you will not be able to safely drive the car anywhere as you will probably trash the nut and threads. Correct torque when reinstalling is critical. Once you begin to tighten the new nut with a simple combination wrench, the joint will "lock" into the taper and you will be able to easily torque.
I have but wouldn't recommend it unless you have the right tools. and know what your doing. It'll take a while and alot of Cursing. If you've lowered your car before without a spring compressor then yeah, its shouldn't be to much of duzzie. Those Ball joints are a Bitch to lossen up.
Got BRABUS?
to replace ball joint, you need ball joing puller:
The process include taking out springs and shocks.
to tigthen up the ball joint, you need 77 lb ft.
Past: 1997 W202 C36 AMG
how do you know if you need ball joints replaced?
Squeeze them with a pair of large slip-joint pliers with the wheel elevated. If you see any movement in the ball/socket of the joint - it will be obvious - the joint needs replacement. Typical replacement interval on a 202 is approx. 60-70,000 miles. It could be much longer or much shorter depending on highway/city mileage and the quality of roads in your area.
Great pic, pnsji. That's the third type of remover that I seldom see available in tool shops. It's not necessary to completely remove the spring, just restraining the lower arm from movement with the joint free will work, and is what most shops will do, as it is actually an inexpensive job.
pretty much once your shocks and springs are out, lower control arm is out.....
behind your disc brake you need to do this:
benzfan, those are the Mercedes specialty tool.
Past: 1997 W202 C36 AMG
Yes, I know, but it is not a design unique to Mercedes, and copies can sometimes be found that may or may not fit, which is why I mentioned only the 2 universal tools.Originally posted by pnsji
benzfan, those are the Mercedes specialty tool. [/B]
Thanks for the images. Sometimes a picture is worth more than a thousand words. Trying to explain a job you've done many times and get all the details is far easier with the pictures. Hopefully ryhi isn't discouraged and will at least attempt the job.
Back in the 70s, we used to break ball joints loose using the spring force. We would loosen the nut, then raise the corner of the car with a jack. Frequently just the spring force would do the job. That's not possible on the 202, however.
i think ill just take it to a shop..
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