Torque # for wheels

[ShollyC220]

I just did a search, and I must admit I'm not the best at using it. However, I am going to be putting my 18" wheels back on for the spring in a few weeks, and I was trying to find the suggested ft/lbs. of torque from the factory. I assumed it was somewhere around 75-80 ft/lbs. Does anyone know the approximate #? I have a '94 c220... Thanks

-sholly

[manny]

The correct torque is 82 ft/lbs.

[CKlasse]

Mine says 95lbs

[ShollyC220]

Hmmm 95 seems a bit too high. Thanks for the quick response.

-sholly

[MrSpace]

I torque mine at 90

Etienne

[manny]

Originally posted by manny
The correct torque is 82 ft/lbs.

[Dr.Drew]

82 for alloys, steel rims can be torqued more

[ShollyC220]

Originally posted by Dr.Drew
82 for alloys, steel rims can be torqued more

These are 18" chrome wheels, aloy coated chrome I assume. 82 ft/lbs should be alright. Thanks for all help-

-sholly

[manny]

Originally posted by Dr.Drew
82 for alloys, steel rims can be torqued more

I'd like to know what you're smoking?
It does'nt matter if they're steel or alloy, the torque spec's. are THE SAME !

[Dr.Drew]

what I ment was its not going to hurt steel rims if you torque them a bit more but alloys can be dammaged if over torqued, I run my winter steelies and alloys both at 82 Ft/lbs

[manny]

The problem is not with over-torquing the wheels, it is about warping the rotors.

[MrSpace]

Originally posted by manny
The problem is not with over-torquing the wheels, it is about warping the rotors.

or breaking a bolt in... or even worse, stripping one

Etienne

[r_widjaya]

MB dealers recommend 90-110 Nm

[SLAMMED_C]

I torque the W202, W210, W208, R170 to 90ft lbs...
and the W211, W220, W215, W163, W140 to 110ft lbs
the smarts are 80-85ft lbs.

[99amgc43]

damn i torque mine to 70, better tighten em

[x15jq]

I just tighten till its real hard to do with a 3 foot bar on the stokc lug wrench. I checked this with my torque wrench once and this is about 100 lbs.

[Dr.Drew]

I was just thinking about this if you say that over torqueing will warp the rotors wouldn't the weaker metal give way first ie. damaging the aluminum vs. the steal rotor ?

[VIP_MBZ]

You can also end up stretching the bolts. Typical torque for Japanese cars is ~75 ft-lbs, and they use the lugnut-on-stud design, which is fundamentally stronger. I didn't have any wobbling or wheels threatening to fly off in my last car while holding 150 mph for several miles, so I'll go ahead and say 70-80 ft-lbs is just fine. 100 ft-lbs or more just isn't a good idea.

-Ray

[98c43amg]

Question that's somewhat related....

When I put on my Kinesis rims, the bolts were too long and rears were hitting the parking break. As I didn't want to put the snows back on, I decided to cut about a 1/4" off the bolts I had in the rear. I don't have a band saw, so used the cut-off wheel of my Dremel (went through about 30 discs! ).

So my question... As I had to cut through the bolt with the grinder, the bolts got quite hot. Was holding the bolt with a Vice Grip so that acted as a bit of a heat sink, but still, bolt was too hot to touch after cutting off the end.... So, does that heating, w/o anealing after (I believe it's called) weaken the bolt? Should I be concerned?

Thanx,
Steve

[VIP_MBZ]

Maybe, and then maybe not. If you can buy Kinesis wheels, then surely ~$100 on the correct bolts should be a drop in the bucket. =)

-Ray

[98c43amg]

Originally posted by VIP_MBZ
Maybe, and then maybe not. If you can buy Kinesis wheels, then surely ~$100 on the correct bolts should be a drop in the bucket. =)

-Ray

(LOL - I bought them used from someone here on the board for $1100 )