Reply With QuoteThe price isn't bad, but the gains he promises are laughable. 20-25 maybe.
i wanted to mod my car i went to a place who gave a price for what i had in mind, he said 800 for headers, and 250 for a chip, and combined they would add about 70 - 80 hp...does this sound resonable or not
The price isn't bad, but the gains he promises are laughable. 20-25 maybe.
\'05 C230k (the wife\'s car)
\'09 smart (fun as heck)
sold all my 202s
I dont think you could get that much if your car was boosted.
edit: If you decide to take him up, then demand before and after dynos with a promise of what he claims +/- 10%.
Agreed.Originally posted by benzfan
The price isn't bad, but the gains he promises are laughable. 20-25 maybe.
20 if you're lucky.
Doesn't that shit cause hell with O2 sensors and the computer, resulting in lost power?
94 C280, 250k miles, 1999-2011 (gone, never forgotten)
CURRENT:
744 Silver 99 C43 AMG, 260k miles, 2011-
040 Black 98 C43 AMG, 190k miles, 2013-
the guy said 40 - 50 hp for the headers, and about 20 for the sports chip, i mean if its true then hell thats money well spent 1000 dollars for 60-70 hp is very good, if its only 20...then...should i go for it or save my money for the next car
One thing you should remember about modifications: They are not additive. This means that if a chip promises 30hp, and the headers 20hp, just for the sake of example, you will not get 50hp by putting them both on. The modifications are complimentary, and must both be installed, along with airbox mods to get anywhere near the claimed benefit of either. Another thing; take the claimed benefit of the largest promised gain for any component, cut it in half to get rid of the marketing hyperbole, then decide if the money required is worth it. Usually, it's far better to save your cash for a higher performance model, as your modified car will net you less money when you sell it than a well-maintained stock version.
\'05 C230k (the wife\'s car)
\'09 smart (fun as heck)
sold all my 202s
listen if your car is a c220 i have headers that im selling. they are in mint condtion. supersprint makes them also i have a powerchip that im selling. i saw a huge differnces with the headers and chip!!! but then you need to do an exhaust system also. the only reason i took them off my car is because i did a turbo kit
john
mine is a c230 98, and good point benzfan never thought of it this way
i think the headers will fit on your car because its a 4cyl. if you want them let me know.
whats the asking price ? for the headers and the chip ??? and how many hp's did it add for u, or secounds did it shave of
i think someone has to be very nieve to believe that S#$t*!!!Originally posted by Abuimad
i wanted to mod my car i went to a place who gave a price for what i had in mind, he said 800 for headers, and 250 for a chip, and combined they would add about 70 - 80 hp...does this sound resonable or not
supersprint headers=$750
powerchip=$350
i dont rember how much they said but im telling you you felt a big change in the car. it would respond faster and on the highway it would book.
If your car was turbo, then MAYBE (though doubtful). But an NA - no way that much power will be gotten.Originally posted by Abuimad
i wanted to mod my car i went to a place who gave a price for what i had in mind, he said 800 for headers, and 250 for a chip, and combined they would add about 70 - 80 hp...does this sound resonable or not
Originally posted by Sulaco
Agreed.
20 if you're lucky.
Doesn't that shit cause hell with O2 sensors and the computer, resulting in lost power?
Ultimately, the O2 sensor is tasked with looking at the exhaust to determine how completely the fuel burned, or if there was an excess of oxygen remaining (air). It is calibrated to maintain the air/fuel mixture at what has been determined to be the optimum for emissions and engine longevity. It doesn't care how much air you crammed into your engine, or how much fuel, just how well it burned and it signals the ECU for more or less fuel as appropriate to maintain the preprogrammed ratio. Obviously there are limits to what each individual engine can burn, but if you put an exhaust with less back pressure on, you can flow more air on the other end and the O2 sensor will work with the MAF sensor in the intake to keep everything burning properly. Cheap mods involve "fooling" the O2 sensor, but this invites problems with the cats. If they see too rich a mixture consistently, they will overheat and burn out. Some companies have tried to sell devices that will fool the air intake temperature sensor which drives the mixture rich. This device is no more than a resistor and doesn't work because your O2 sensor will compensate right back to where you were and set your long term fuel trim leaner to boot, so that even after you remove the resistor, you will be lean until the ECU relearns the new long term fuel trim or you clear it from memory by disconnecting the ECU. This is why when someone chips your car that you feel an immediate 'seat of the pants' improvement. Your long term fuel trim has been reset and the ECU reverts to the default chip map values until it relearns due to the O2 sensor, so you may feel performance of the new chip drop after a day or 2.
The problems start normally at the WOT areas, as the ECU reverts to a preprogrammed map to determine air/fuel mixture. The O2 sensor is being ignored at this point. This is termed Open Loop mode, or OL, the same as when you first start it up cold. The preprogrammed map will always err on the rich side of things, to prevent engine damage. Coincidentally, the optimum air/fuel ratio for power is considered slightly richer than the O2 sensor likes to run things. The chip can usually only vary the timing in Closed loop mode, but can mess with the A/F ratio and timing in OL mode. I say usually in CL mode because new wide band O2 sensors allow far more tuning latitude. If you have installed a chip, you probably should have flow changes made on both ends of the engine to take advantage of what the chip is trying to do. However, opening the exhaust too much results in a loss of back pressure which will drop your torque at lower rpm. In the extreme, you can lose a portion of your charge right out the exhaust, causing the O2 sensor to compensate and yes, your performance overall will suffer. It's always best to add components that have been engineered for use together to your car.
One other thing too; Modern engines are always operating on the edge of knocking due to too-advanced timing. They are brought back from a knocking condition by the knock sensors, which retard the timing in steps until the knock goes away, then advances it again in steps if no more knock is sensed. This happens faster than you can imagine and each individual cylinder's knock characteristics can be compensated for. If you put bad (low octane) fuel in, the system will compensate and you probably will feel slightly less performance due the retading of the timing by the knock sensors. I speak of course only of engines that are designed to runpremium fuel from the factory, such as ours. To take advantage of the knock sensors' ability to run the engine's spark advance forward until the edge of knock, the chip will ask for advanced timing over stock. This requires premium fuel ONLY. Why? Because the knock sensors are ignored at anything over about 4000rpm, because they can't distinguish between normal mechanical engine noise and knock at that rpm, so what you get at WOT for spark advance is what your ECU is programmed to give it. If you are using less octane than the chip was optimized for, you could be inviting trouble in tghe form of high rpm knock, which you probably won't hear until it blows a hole in a piston.
Ackk. That was long-winded. I hope I didn't lose anyone or worse yet, contradict myself.
\'05 C230k (the wife\'s car)
\'09 smart (fun as heck)
sold all my 202s
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