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Thread: Custom clutch + FW

  1. #51
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    Originally posted by c280nz
    dont pay the bill for the flywheel, just claim uve got no money from the global recession,
    every1 else seems to haha

    i only asked about the bolts because the thickness of your new flywheel where it bolts to the crank seems very thin, my standard one was very thick and had long flywheel bolts so i made my new one with a thick center to use the same bolts.

    yea the performance section shud be renamed, pauls section
    i wish theyd open the forum up to new members this is dieing slowly.

    did they double spring your pressure plate? i want to uprate my pressure plate just like you did and i was under the understanding all they do is double spring them, who did it and how much was it?
    i was gona just run standard material but try and get them to spring my stock clutch disc center.

    im also looking into these phantom grip lsds, a guy over on mercedesshop has put one in his w210 e class turbo (same motor and diff as myne)
    if it works out il let you know.
    beached as bro

    that things gona hold up nice tho!
    spec seem pritty usless!

    Haha reckon,havent they sorted the new users yet? 0o

    oh true so you werent takin the piss=D used the OE bolts the mounting thickness is same as stock,so the 280 is really thick huh,wierd 0o

    Not sure exactly what they did to the pressure plate,i did ask but somhow missed a decent responce...they probly just opened it up,check the pressure was good and refitted,charged me $195.I would assume they changed the spring or doubled it,will have to ask again.
    Was pretty shocked to find the clutch didnt feel any heavier than stock,certainly has more bite tho.

    Yeh if you can run the stock friction material with a sprung centre,uprate the pressure it should be all good!...I try out the new clutch setup yesturday,works well...alittle jittery in reverse but its very early days yet have only got about 80km on her.

    Very interested in the lsd,even with only 22% less mass on the flywheel the wheels want to let go on pretty much anything now^^...is the phantom grip a real lsd,or a few springs sandwitched in the diff?
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  2. #52
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    Originally posted by SLAMMED_C
    damn son!.. that flywheel looks good. guys did great work machining.
    whats the point of this new front cover again?.. oil feeds for an external cooler was it? those an fittings turned out great too.. gotta love a lathe!

    Yo,
    Vito front has oil in and out on the rear of the oil filter housing,Iv used some spare -10 fitting to plumb it straight back in for now,need to order the cooler and thermostat as funds allow,was in hot weather this week,definitly need a cooler!,and will have to design a vent for the hood too!
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  3. #53
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    Originally posted by omeyhomey
    Spec makes amazing products, you can't go wrong with them.
    They may make some nice products for other cars,but the items i got for the 202 were along way from acceptable for the cost,the pressure plate is nothing more than a glorified SAX item,panted blue and labeled with a budget spec sticker....i was shown an identical SAX item unpainted for 1/3 the cost.
    secondly,the clutch disk face was so poorly aligned before riviting that it would have caused vibration.
    the sprung centre,which is made by some other company needed re-pressing to properly lock it together.
    the friction material was also warped 110 thou and is incredibly stiff,this may have made poor disengagement.
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  4. #54
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    i like your impressive loop oil feed tubes.
    my engine came with a water to oil cooler in the filter housing, to keep the oil cool.
    ive taken my clutch into the shop and it is geting sent to auckland at the mo, and ive got to talk to the guy about sprung center and pressure plate options.

    yea phantom grip is just a spring block, but kleenman sell the same sortof kit, and there ment to be ok
    -Logan-

  5. #55
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    Hmm so all 104 have the oil to water cooler? 0o...nice!.

    all good,wheres it being sent in aucks?

    Just wondering,because a spring block simply adds consistant pressure would it have negative effects in normal driving/corners when its not needed?
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  6. #56
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    Originally posted by 23K
    Hmm so all 104 have the oil to water cooler? 0o...nice!.

    all good,wheres it being sent in aucks?

    Just wondering,because a spring block simply adds consistant pressure would it have negative effects in normal driving/corners when its not needed?
    im not sure were in aucks, i just dropped it in2 my local clutch shop, do you have any recomendations?

    no not all m104 engines have the water/oil cooler, my standard engine did, and my replacement engine didnt, so im swaping it over from my old engine at the mo (waiting on gasgets etc,)

    yes the spring block is exactly as you described, it will slowly wear out during normal driving, but this is the same as all clutch type lsd's

    all i want one for is when i dump the clutch so i can go round and round till im dizzy
    oh and drifting round manfield on biscuits, holla at the redneck

    edit: just looking back thru the pictures on this post man u do everything so nice and tidy! its all perfect, you would get on well with my friend who helped with all my work, he is a ott perfectionist like yourself, i am jelous of his and your workmanship
    he built his own twin paddle clutch for his sr20 powered hiace, the thing is literally a on off switch, ud rip the ass off the crank b4 that thing would slip

    hows the car going and driving? i needa day off to work on my car like you had!
    l8rs
    -Logan-

  7. #57
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    Yo,
    back to work today,signaling the end of my week on the car...gutted it went way to fast^^

    Heard back about the clutch yet?...I used the guys at morning side,clutch.co.nz,they were recommended to me by my balancer,who is highly recommedend by many,so i took his word as hes been pretty much spot on with everything he's said in the last few years.

    hahaha ah man you not gunna track the 19's?

    Classic sr hiace huh!,i bet its on off lol,and with zero wieght in the back pretty scary at times?^^
    yeh I think maybe alittle ott at times haha,its my downfall...i just try to make it how i would want to buy it,and workmanship goes to the guys at Burr,i just make sure its how i like it^^,i do do as much as possible myself though would try it all if i had a cnc lathe/mill =)


    The new engine is running nice,was a bit nervous when i first started her up,as the book says timing is 20 ATDC,where as i built it at 30 ATDC(which is what i kinda remember removing it at ^^) ,i turned it over quite a few times by hand before i used the starter to pump oil,about 4 turns and it fired up.Runs much smoother than with the JE pistons...however each time i start it up from cold in the morning it runs alittle rough,but no worse than the first time i started it...that could be a number of things like i bridged the fuel pump and drained the tank....well i thought i did,but after i put 20L in and check the gauge it was 2/3 full lol,so theres some good and really crap fuel in there,i took the spark plugs out and they have a fair amount of carbon on them so maybe the ecu needs retuned fuel maps when is cold as well now we actually have some compression when its cold^^...if its not any of those things i really hope its not my engine building haha...but it runs nice once its slightly warmer.

    First day i got it going i took it for a drive to paihia...and went through the worst road works,fresh watered down tar with just enough stone to cover...did about 2000000kms of damage in under 400m lol....stoptech kit jammed up 3 times,theres gouges under the caliper and on the outside of the rotors,removed most of the paint from the rear of the front gaurds,added at least 50 fresh stone chips to bonnet and doors...so much stonage that i had to remove the wheels and clear out the suspension...i removed 1.8Kg or tar covered stone from around the springs and shocks LOOOOL....that sh!t was grinding up everything^^


    So next mission is to get it certed,wofd,regod for this summer...fark more $ i dont Have^^






    Laters
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  8. #58
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    back to work today,signaling the end of my week on the car...gutted it went way to fast^^


    ****ha bugger ah time off goes so fast u normally end up busyier when your off work than when ur at work, u end up needing a holiday at the end of your holiday, well thats how it is with me,

    Heard back about the clutch yet?...I used the guys at morning side,clutch.co.nz,they were recommended to me by my balancer,who is highly recommedend by many,so i took his word as hes been pretty much spot on with everything he's said in the last few years.

    ****nah not yet i rung them today and there gona let me know what the go is and inform me of costs and ideas before they do any work on the clutch, may need to get the flywheel machined slightly in the middle to fit the clutch disc springs in :-s

    hahaha ah man you not gunna track the 19's?

    **** id take like a few sets of tires including the 19s with me :-)

    Classic sr hiace huh!,i bet its on off lol,and with zero wieght in the back pretty scary at times?^^
    yeh I think maybe alittle ott at times haha,its my downfall...i just try to make it how i would want to buy it,and workmanship goes to the guys at Burr,i just make sure its how i like it^^,i do do as much as possible myself though would try it all if i had a cnc lathe/mill =)


    *****^^ that is exactly what i was thinking but didnt say it in the last post and thought id let u say it to make sure iz right, u pick what gets done and have a standard to do things to and the guys do the work how u want it, no one in the real world has all the gear to build the hole thing themselves, but i know what u mean by if u had a mill! i think the same thing, but ud also need 12 months and $5000 worth of tools and learning material to get good on it ah.

    The new engine is running nice,was a bit nervous when i first started her up,as the book says timing is 20 ATDC,where as i built it at 30 ATDC(which is what i kinda remember removing it at ^^) ,i turned it over quite a few times by hand before i used the starter to pump oil,about 4 turns and it fired up.Runs much smoother than with the JE pistons...however each time i start it up from cold in the morning it runs alittle rough,but no worse than the first time i started it...that could be a number of things like i bridged the fuel pump and drained the tank....well i thought i did,but after i put 20L in and check the gauge it was 2/3 full lol,so theres some good and really crap fuel in there,i took the spark plugs out and they have a fair amount of carbon on them so maybe the ecu needs retuned fuel maps when is cold as well now we actually have some compression when its cold^^...if its not any of those things i really hope its not my engine building haha...but it runs nice once its slightly warmer.

    ****high performance vehicles with large turbos etc are always tempra-mental especially with stand alones, because u never spend the time on the dyno and in different temps/environments/fuels etc that the factory guys put into the factory ecu. i hate starting engines for the first time, it feels like your stomach is flying away with butterfly power

    First day i got it going i took it for a drive to paihia...and went through the worst road works,fresh watered down tar with just enough stone to cover...did about 2000000kms of damage in under 400m lol....stoptech kit jammed up 3 times,theres gouges under the caliper and on the outside of the rotors,removed most of the paint from the rear of the front gaurds,added at least 50 fresh stone chips to bonnet and doors...so much stonage that i had to remove the wheels and clear out the suspension...i removed 1.8Kg or tar covered stone from around the springs and shocks LOOOOL....that sh!t was grinding up everything^^

    ***i once came thru the desert road and a tar truck had been leaking from about wairaru till about the middle of the desert road, a long strip of tar, and to fix it they just layed stones ontop to cover it up, it must of just happened, i had stones everywhere and tar dripping off my car for ages, id go out the next day and there would be piles of tar from running off the inside of the guards, and so much tar on the inside of the wheels they were out of balance, i was over it.

    So next mission is to get it certed,wofd,regod for this summer...fark more $ i dont Have^^

    *** beta book the cert in, thats about a 2 week job at the best of times

    man i got fancy with the editing on this one

    feuw *looks around for a rona and runs out to the lemon tree*
    l8rs

    -Logan-

  9. #59
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    ha bugger ah time off goes so fast u normally end up busyier when your off work than when ur at work, u end up needing a holiday at the end of your holiday, well thats how it is with me,

    Zackly!!!

    ****nah not yet i rung them today and there gona let me know what the go is and inform me of costs and ideas before they do any work on the clutch, may need to get the flywheel machined slightly in the middle to fit the clutch disc springs in :-s

    We built this fw so it was possible to have the springs on either side,lucky we did as the offset centre ended up having to go the opposite to stock to clear the thrust bearing guide,so springs are inside the flywheel rather than the pressure plate,is is possible to remove metal and make it fit yours?

    **** id take like a few sets of tires including the 19s with me :-)

    Dont forget some decent pads!...work mate made a mess of his SS brakes last time^^...meh its a holden aw

    ****high performance vehicles with large turbos etc are always tempra-mental especially with stand alones, because u never spend the time on the dyno and in different temps/environments/fuels etc that the factory guys put into the factory ecu. i hate starting engines for the first time, it feels like your stomach is flying away with butterfly power

    hehe yeh.
    we did cut the tuning alittle short last time tho,i will install the O2 and idle control before next tune i think!.

    ***i once came thru the desert road and a tar truck had been leaking from about wairaru till about the middle of the desert road, a long strip of tar, and to fix it they just layed stones ontop to cover it up, it must of just happened, i had stones everywhere and tar dripping off my car for ages, id go out the next day and there would be piles of tar from running off the inside of the guards, and so much tar on the inside of the wheels they were out of balance, i was over it.

    Ouch^^

    *** beta book the cert in, thats about a 2 week job at the best of times man i got fancy with the editing on this one feuw *looks around for a rona and runs out to the lemon tree* l8rs

    Hahaha had my heiny in hand when i red this^^,lately been tryin steiny pure,not bad...

    Cert cost 400 - 450+gst,so iv got some second hand upper control arms,going to modify them to make adjustable so dont have to cert it again after!!
    adjusting the top means it wont lose much track width and will look staunch too

    Awsome colour posting^^...forgot the option was there...rainbow was tempting

    Laters bro
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  10. #60
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    make 2 sets of those top arms and il make sure you neva run outa pure's for a year

    yea bout the track, ive got better pads, but i really need to get a big brake kit, pads alone dont really cut it.

    um i need some advice about the clutch,
    i rung my shop 2day and they told me they cant make my one into a sprung center,
    and ive been looking around the merc parts catalogue and have found one sprung center, so i mite ring and price that one,
    do you think your clutch shop would be able to make myne sprung? it was clutch.co.nz ah, who did you deal with in there?
    -Logan-

  11. #61
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    Hehe,ill make the prototype first and see how it goes,I cut the ball joint off this morning,it will need minor machining possibly a grove for a circlip,either that or we pull the nilon out and weld the socket on.
    Going to reuse the oe bush if i can get away with it,it seems they cannot be removed so will need to weld onto the arm rather than weld a complete new arm onto the bush housing.

    Yeh they will be able to make a sprung one for sure,they will probly be able to make yours sprung,but i would think it would cost almost the same as a new one!.
    I used Neil at clutch.co.nz,seemed to be ok ish
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  12. #62
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    i rung up neil, and he can make myne sprung,
    so i will probebly send it up to him,
    i dont know were i can get a new sprung one from?
    any idea?

    and he can also make my pressure plate heavier aswel
    -Logan-

  13. #63
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    Awsum!...i should have just uprated my oe too....ffs lol
    By new I ment custom making one complete with new clutch face. If they are going to make yours sprung they possibly only reuse the friction material i would think? 0o
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  14. #64
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    i hope they put on new friction material, but il make sure i ask them to, my last clutch would of probebly only lasted me 20k
    going by how much wear it had on it after 10
    -Logan-

  15. #65
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    what causes a clutch to wear fast,is it to much slip?...or a heavy pressure plate that causes high stress on engagement?
    or is it a combination of friction material,pressure plate and driving...i mean like....if you ran the oe disk with a heavier plate with the stock engine...would is wear faster than with the lighter pressure plate even though both arnt slipping?...


    the guys at clutch said not to slip the kevlar clutch,they said it will heat up very quickly...i regret not asking why that was such a bad thing...maybe there referring to the heat cooking the crank seal or somthing...i dunno.

    man im tired...not sure i made a point here^^


    google^^
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  16. #66
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    haha 2 late at night ah,
    i think they dont like them slipping because it can cook the surface of the clutch pads, and they get heat glazed.
    like brake pads, once glazed they dont work very well anymore,
    and i think what wears a pad out is the combination of load/slipping, just like brake pads
    -Logan-

  17. #67
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    Ah ok forgot bout the glazing thing,yeh that will be what they ment!,whats happened with your clutch and fw?
    Have done a few more K's on the engine now,been in to try sort the fault codes looks like the BAS/ASR light will need to be pulled theres no way it will every be happy again ^^

    As for the new clutch setup its smooth if you engage it it a positive way...you can slip it ok but theres a point where it will begin to shudder...its all about technique^^

    No smoke at all from the engine...alittle black when at wot but cant get to tuners till late jan now!.

    Installed engine mounts from the V8,much less engine rock!,also had pmw remake the heat shield and the header tank and aircon pipes in alloy around the turbo as they would have eventually been ripped by engine movment.

    Have run out of time on the camber arms the movable plate will be done in Jan all going well.

    flippin head liner material has pulled away from the roof 0o...grrr,think its cos i put a car cover on after washing it a few weeks back,was pretty damp!.

    Anyways im broke,havent bought any xmas prezzies yet^^...dammit,cars^^

    Have a good ny!

    Laters,
    Paul
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    >>Old Turbo 2.3 History >>Old Turbo 2.3 Video

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