Please, I need help as I don't know?

[kowalski]

I'm now in the market for adjustable toe in arms.
As Vetruck was kind enuff to inform all of us the good vs bad of w202 suspension.
I need to get the exact size parts for adjustable toe in arms for my C43 AMG.
I am not familiar with US measurment system which comes in inch.
I know 1" is = 2.5cm.
Therefore I need some help from the gurus on club202 forum.

Please can anyone tell me what size length the ARM I need equivalent to factory Lemförder arm?
Please copy and paste size.
http://www.colemanracing.com/Trailin...-34-P3753.aspx

What size rod ends, do I need?
They have to fit factory stock bolts.
They have to be the BEST high quality rod ends with anti rust-protection and have ANTI squeek rubbers
Please copy and paste the correct LEFT/RIGHT threaded rod ends.
I assume I will need: 2 left threaded rod ends and 2 right threaded rod ends.
http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/c...loy-steel.html

Last part is the spacers.
They need to fit factory stock bolts.
Please copy and paste the correct size of these spacers.
I assume I need 8 pieces of spacers?
http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/c...alignment.html

Please make sure you describe the correct parts/sizes as I'm in europe and have to order these parts from USA.
This information will be informative for other members too.

Many thanks for your help

[kowalski]

anyone?

[Sulaco]

Sorry bud, I'm sure someone will chime in soon. I'm a total dunce with suspension and steering math.

[Vetruck]

You have any reference measurements? I would have to take mine apart to see all the sizes and Im not about to do that. I was able to figure the cambers for you from the specs on the DIY post

[Vetruck]

The tierod one from what I lookd at has a typical tie-rod (balljoint) type end on it but is fixed to the arm unlike conventional "threaded"tierod ends.

The main mystery question is: does the pont on the subframe that the tierod insert into have a tapered hole? If so, then can it safely be drilled to a consistant bore like lets say 1/2"? Then does it have adequate misaliignment angle or is it more drastic that a higher misalignment angle rodend is needed if yo make arms just like the aftermarket Camber arms.

...then you get to the lengths of the rodedns and alum tierod sleeve/tube, the knuckle slot width & bore.

Youll need alignment equipment to bump the car's rear toe and camber, caster, and toe settings through the lowered suspension travel articulation- to do this you need to completely remover the springs on both sides and then reset the chassis to static ride height. supported by jacks. then you start recording measurements in 1/2" increments drops at minimum to see what mainly the camber and toe are doing, and then the final droop to also check caster change -this part is more complicated to explain why, but it pretains to all out handling and what the car is doing in roll- this is needed later more for chassis balance, not alignment of tires in straight line travel.

I will be doing all of this when I eventually lower mine, but I am not taking anything apart right now to just looky see for kicks. I will definately have all this info within a few months, I am on major hold awaiting Koni to get off their butts and get some inventory of shocks for ours cars back on the shelves. I am not doing anything until I get shocks first.

[kowalski]

thanks for taking your time writing this info.
i think i'll wait getting the adjustable toe in arms and go with factory toe in arms as I already bought complete suspension arms.
adjustable to in arms will have to go on to do future list.

i hope you measure all sizes on your components when you decide to do full rear suspension upgrade

thanks