Miss fire again

[taz069]

Maybe one of you have a better clue than me!!! My car has run great for the past month!! Now it has inherated a skip!! I have changed the plugs and gapped to 45 thousandths. Had a coil let loose melted goop came out of it 85$ later. Still skips when the car warms up!! Changed the wires another 100$ bill gone!! I have redone the wireing harness back to the ecu! The lil one runs great only until it is warm then it skips and sputters! I have checked the fuel injector's clips for good connection and that they have. The crank position sensor is still ohming good. The cam position sensor is still ohming good. W!T!F! am i missing???? I do have a used maf coming from chim here with us! Might all this be related back to the maf? Like I said the cel comes on but the obd2 tool shows no codes. Any thoughts!!

[vaspen]

odd maby it could be the gaps ? u try the bosh pregaps ?

[taz069]

Bud I had autohauz factory plugs in to start. And I mean I have no clue as to what is causing the problem(and they don't have 400 miles on them)!! It has run great for over a month. Butt and I do mean but we have had a ton of wet weather! And it has seemed to act up more so during this time than any other. When it be dry and or cold all is good, throw is some of the florida wetness and chit starts to act up! I'm starting to think maybe maf?? Got one on order from chim. I am just clueless at this point and getting tired of throwing cash at it and still coming up with the same issues!! Thanks again.

[vaspen]

tru this, try going to auto zone they have maf cleaner and try that, it could just be something stupid .. maby a bad o2 sensor (out of the 2 of them )
but it only dose it when its wet out ?
pull the plugs back out and see if they are oily and black looking if so they filed out and could cause the miss,
the gromit running in the cyl under the coils usualy have to be exactly on maby it could not be pushed down far enuf I replaced one of them and it took care of my miss lol
but don't keep throwing money at it goto a steeler ship when its wet and acting up so they don't think your a idiot and stuff .. some ppl are asses and wont believe you

[taz069]

Thanks vaspen. All the plugs have a light brownish tint to them. With no sign's of wetness. I did try the maf cleaner and it still did the same thing. Now I have had to replace one of the coils. It is of the wells type my old bosch one spewed black tar out of it. In hind thought I just pulled all them and did some ohmn readings on them. Keep in mind that these readings were on auto on my tester and tested from the input side of the coil's. My new coil had a reading of 8.82ohmn's from center post to the coil ground(frame), the outer ring had a infinate reading to ground, now center post to outer ring had a reading of .7 ohmns. The other original bosch had a reading of o.l.(infinate) to ground( center post to coil frame), and a reading of .6 from center post to outside ring. The last coil had a reading of 12.37 ohmns to o.l.( infinet) on center post to coil frame. The last coil also had a reading of .7 ohmns from center post to outside ring. The car was almost up to temp. So the coils were warm not hot. Now with the variances between the 2 old coils and the 1 new coil has me wondering???? Any thoughts on this?? Is their a more specific way of testing coils?? Will hit you tube up next!! Just been set back another month on my soon to be daily driver. Thanks all.

[vaspen]

NAPA has coils for cheep and mine are still kicking pretty good like 120 ? or something

if you know the cyclinder the miss is on take that coil and swich them around if the miss jumps to the other cyl then its the coilpack its a simple way to check if you know were the miss is happening

[vaspen]

also (sorry ) keep the wires in the same areas this way if the miss stays in the same place if could be a bad wire

remember just because its new dosent mean its gonna work all the time

[taz069]

Now that is one of the problems. I just put new bosch wires on 3 day's ago. Now for knowing what coil is missfing is a different story. My cel is showing no codes!! I hooked my bud's obd2 reader to it even when it is skipping and still no codes. I bought the new coil from autozone for 96$. All I know to do is to ohmn these puppies which i have and post it. As it stands now I am thinking 2 more new coils. Sorry for the rambling. Seeing I have put so much time and a bunch of $$ to this project it seems the weak point now is in the 2 older coils. If anyone knows if my readings are close?? Thanks again vaspen.

[vaspen]

there is a alternate method of checking the coils but its dangerous,
you pull the plug out while running the car with a special needle nose plyers and listen for the spark and seeing for a difference in motor idle when you pull one out if there is no change in idle then that's where it is when you pull another out it should change now I know theres a prob with how the coils sit ontop of 2 but you would have to experiment with it that way

[taz069]

I'll have to pass on that!! Seeing if my reading's are all over the board with the ohmn thing I really don't feel like getting the jeebers knocked out of me!! I'll search other avenues! But I will say this I'd almost be willing to watch you do it!!!!!!!! Keep in mind I don't do cpr!! Lmao!! Thanks vaspen but no thanks.

[vaspen]

lol how u think they did it in the old days XD its safe but you have to be carefull that's why theres a pair of needle nose plyers for it

[taz069]

Just a lil update here. Replaced the other 2 coils with brand new well's coils 93$ apiece. Still same Issue spit and sputter. Replace the maf with one purchased from chim(member of 202) a great looking Bosch. I did ohmn the old and new maf and chim's Bosch had better readings. Installed and still spit and sputter. I'm now looking into the throttle body. From what I am reading it can cause limp mode and other issues. They have bad wiring issues, the internal coil does fail. Does anyone know of the procedure for removal of this unit. When the sun comes up going to unplug and check ohmns i found posted elsewhere from pin to pin.

[taz069]

It might take 30 min to remove the throttle body on my 96 c280. Super easy. Remove the crossover tubing, take off the down boot( the rubber tube from crossover to tb, mine fell apart), remove the throttle return spring and pop the linkage off the throttle assembly, remove the 4 allen bolts that hold the tb down to the intake runner, and remove the 2 10mm nuts that hold the plug in place. Still working on ohmn readings for it all. Got one of the covers off where the wiring harness goes in and all wires look great. Now the little circut board had alot of old black flux or something on it cleand it all off. Just taking a break to give a update.

[vaspen]

its that florida rust I swear lol XD

yea it could be a possibility that the throttle position sensor went bad or posibaly a crank shaft position sensor might be going out ?

[Vetruck]

Taz, I was jhust getting that same spit and sputter with my old TB- the car would not idle. I was thinking it was some sensor or maybe a control module like I know GM cars have that act up like this- turned out it was my TB. I don;t know if you read my recent post or not, but mine is fixed. I had just a little sputter issues after I installed the new one, but it appears to just have been the PCM (computer) just learning the new throttle positions/fuel tables. It has worked perfect for a few days now. Mu TB harness was wasted inside the black wiring loom.

Dean

[vaspen]

this cars wiring is starting to sound like a corvette lol