20" rim information

[DRM]

Hey,

I am getting 20" rims in the next couple of months.

Was just posting up to get some information regarding the whole process as I do not know much about rim and suspension specifications.

Please keep in mind, it is illegal to cut springs in Australia. I would be saying goodnight to my insurance policy if I was in an accident and they noticed the springs.

I am getting bilstein sport shocks from shockwarehouse.com and have purchased some eibach pro kit springs.
These eibach's will need the older spring pads as I have an update and these springs were made for the pre update.

I am looking for a low look with the 20" rims, wouldn't mind the 20's tucking in the rear or almost tucking, and same with the front but understand you need room to turn.

I don't know what pads I have in at the moment but I will check sometime this weekend and post it up. I have two 12" subs in the boot with a large box so it is suprisingly low in the back and with the 3cm drop these eibach prokit springs proclaim to have it should be looking pretty low.

Then there is always the option of changing the pads if i am not on #1's already, I will probably buy some of these pads to have on hand when installing the springs / rims.

Some terms I don't understand are the spacers that people talk about, offset?, the whole 245/--/(i know this one is rim size but not too sure on the others). What are the bumpstops? Any other pieces of information I will need to know about?

I understand I might need the guards rolled, which is not that much of a problem, only problems are you can't return this mod to stock and the paint might crack when they are rolling them and I would like to avoid paint repairs.

Thanks!

[Proven Guilty]

20" rims will not fit on a W202 due to the shape and radius of the wheel weel without serious body modification if you plan to keep the aspect ratio.

your best bet if you plan to lower it is go with 19" rims, 35offset is usually good up front on an 8.5J with 225 width tires while you can often get away with a 9.5J on the rear with 38 offest and 265/30

breakdown of tires:
225/35/19
width/tire height/rim size

check out many of the posts regarding offset, aspect ratio, and slip and grip angles by searching the forum. just about anything you'll find posted by c55m80 will be 100% accurate and sound advice.

[rman]

when i get rims they'll be 20s. 225/30r20 all the way around, almost same diameter as stock. i'll figure out a way to make them work

[Proven Guilty]

Originally posted by rman
when i get rims they'll be 20s. 225/30r20 all the way around, almost same diameter as stock. i'll figure out a way to make them work

we all know you're crazy enough to make it work, and i have confidence it'll look good. been impressed with your choices so far; i'm just curious how to plan to bag it without turning your car into an early 90's honda civic. lol

[NoRemedy]

Proven guilty said it best. I would seriously recommend that you stay away from 20's. Since larger rim diameters call for much lower profile tires, your car will ride really shitty. Lower profile tires take away the comfort value of the ride. Handling will also suffer. They're most likely going to be nosier too. You might also find it harder to stop the car as well. 19's in my personal opinion are still too big. They serve only for looks.

[OCKlasse]

Originally posted by NoRemedy
They serve only for looks.

of course, why else would you get bigger wheels...I guess you can tell me one would buy for wider wheels for wider more aggressive tires, but let's be blunt here; people buy wheels for the aesthetics of them.

[DRM]

Originally posted by Proven Guilty
20" rims will not fit on a W202 due to the shape and radius of the wheel weel without serious body modification if you plan to keep the aspect ratio.

your best bet if you plan to lower it is go with 19" rims, 35offset is usually good up front on an 8.5J with 225 width tires while you can often get away with a 9.5J on the rear with 38 offest and 265/30

breakdown of tires:
225/35/19
width/tire height/rim size

check out many of the posts regarding offset, aspect ratio, and slip and grip angles by searching the forum. just about anything you'll find posted by c55m80 will be 100% accurate and sound advice.

Hi, thanks for the reply. Okay well I have been looking at the wheel well and I don't understand how they will not fit?

At the moment I have 195/65/15. If I were to get 225/30/20's according to a tyre/wheel calculator the overall diameter of the stock wheel is 24.98 inch or 634.49 mm compared to the 225/30/20's which are 25.31 inch or 642.87 mm. The diameters differ by 7.5mm or there abouts.

So if my 195/65/15's fit under there? If they increased by 7.5mm obviously they would still fit in the wheel well?

So what is the offset you are talking about? is that how much the wheel gets pushed out to the guard or in towards the car?

The wheels I want are available in 20" by 8.5", will I need to get these rims pushed out to the guards or more in towards the car as I have 195/65/15?

Also what will be the first number of a 20" by 8.5 wheel? Wouldn't its code be 215/30/20?

Aspect ratio I think is keeping the diameter of the stock rim + tyre the same as the tyre + wheel you are putting on correct?

There are a lot of e46's m3's w202's and e36's getting around my area/sydney with 20" rims, some don't even look like the guards have been altered so I don't understand why it is seen as such a hard modifcation to do.

And I understand the ride quality won't be great to say the least. Although I assume the bilstein's and eibach pro kit will take some of the harshness off the ride.

[Proven Guilty]

Originally posted by DRM
Hi, thanks for the reply. Okay well I have been looking at the wheel well and I don't understand how they will not fit?

At the moment I have 195/65/15. If I were to get 225/30/20's according to a tyre/wheel calculator the overall diameter of the stock wheel is 24.98 inch or 634.49 mm compared to the 225/30/20's which are 25.31 inch or 642.87 mm. The diameters differ by 7.5mm or there abouts.

So if my 195/65/15's fit under there? If they increased by 7.5mm obviously they would still fit in the wheel well?

Correct, but the aspect ratio would be off running 30 rubber on 20 inch rims, causing your speedometer to be inaccurate. The main reason that 7mm+ makes such a big difference is when the car is actually resting on the suspension it would rub on the shock tower mount, as well as when turning the wheel itself is closer to the edges of the wheel well so those would need to be rounded off (10mm approximately, maybe more due to how the suspension flexes when under load + cintrifugal force)


So what is the offset you are talking about? is that how much the wheel gets pushed out to the guard or in towards the car?

Offset works where the lower the number, the closer the wheel is pushing out towards the wheel wells, the higher the number the more it's tucked in close against the body in the wheel wells. You generally don't want to exceed +/- 5mm when changing from stock wheels on a W202 due to the limitations (especially the front) wheel well's design.

The wheels I want are available in 20" by 8.5", will I need to get these rims pushed out to the guards or more in towards the car as I have 195/65/15?
It depends entirely on how big the "lip" of the wheel is, and how you plan to modify the body to make those wheels work. of you stuck with 35 offset up front, and 37 in the rear, you would be better off with a staggered setup.

Also what will be the first number of a 20" by 8.5 wheel? Wouldn't its code be 215/30/20? the 215/30/20 size you specified is for a tire that is 215 wide x 30 "tall" (height from rim to edge of tire) x 20 inch rim (inside diameter of the tire).

Aspect ratio I think is keeping the diameter of the stock rim + tyre the same as the tyre + wheel you are putting on correct? Correct.

There are a lot of e46's m3's w202's and e36's getting around my area/sydney with 20" rims, some don't even look like the guards have been altered so I don't understand why it is seen as such a hard modifcation to do.BMW designed their suspension setup, and wheel wells very much different. If you go higher than a 37 offset up front, it starts to rub on the suspension with 19" rims, so 20" would be a different story!

And I understand the ride quality won't be great to say the least. Although I assume the bilstein's and eibach pro kit will take some of the harshness off the ride. While the suspension will allow for a much lower center of gravity, as well provide for a more "compliant" ride at that height, but the only way to rid yourself of harshness would be to stick with 17-18" rims, and go with koni yellows on full soft setting with the eibach pro springs. just my 2cents :)

[DRM]

Originally posted by Proven Guilty
Correct, but the aspect ratio would be off running 30 rubber on 20 inch rims, causing your speedometer to be inaccurate. The main reason that 7mm+ makes such a big difference is when the car is actually resting on the suspension it would rub on the shock tower mount, as well as when turning the wheel itself is closer to the edges of the wheel well so those would need to be rounded off (10mm approximately, maybe more due to how the suspension flexes when under load + cintrifugal force)

First of all thanks for the detailed reply. Still a bit confused about offsets but I get the main idea. So considering the aspect ratio is out by 7.5mm isn't there a tyre that can duplicate the aspect ratio of my current 195/65/15's? I was looking on 1010tires.com and I see that the 215/30/20's diameter is 25.07 inch 636.77 mm. The speedo and diameter difference is now only 0.36% (~1mm) compared to the 1.51% (~7mm) difference the 225/30/20's have to my stock 195/65/15. Is this a close enough difference? It seems that 0.36% difference is not significant however I am sure it makes a big enough difference.


Originally posted by Proven Guilty
The main reason that 7mm+ makes such a big difference is when the car is actually resting on the suspension it would rub on the shock tower mount

Okay so this rubbing on the shock mount is not applicable if I can find a way to get the aspect ratio as close to the stock tyres as I can?


Originally posted by Proven Guilty
As well as when turning the wheel itself is closer to the edges of the wheel well so those would need to be rounded off (10mm approximately, maybe more due to how the suspension flexes when under load + cintrifugal force)

Alright so when changing my wheel from it's current width (195) to say the 8.5" of the wheels I want, I will need to get a spacer to push the wheel further away from the shock / suspension mounts? If say for instance the difference in width from my current tyre (195) to the 8.5" of the wheels I want was 5centimetres would that mean I would need a 5cm spacer to allow the new wheel to clear the shock mounts and return that width from tyre to shock mount to "stock"? And with saying this, then the wheel is being pushed a total of 5 centimetres towards the guard so you have to roll the guard out as say for instance it's "stock" measurement was 5cm from guard to tyre? Hopefully you can understand that lol.



Originally posted by Proven Guilty
It depends entirely on how big the "lip" of the wheel is, and how you plan to modify the body to make those wheels work. of you stuck with 35 offset up front, and 37 in the rear, you would be better off with a staggered setup.

I don't think there is much lip on the wheel at all, it is quite flat faced. And I am pretty sure by staggered you mean 8.5inch width wheels at the front and 9.5 inch wide wheels at the back. I am pretty sure the wheels I want only come in 8.5 all around so staggered might not be an option.

[OCKlasse]

that's funny that it's illegal to cut springs there...if you did a 20 * 8.5 all around with a 35-38mm you should be fine...you might want to run a spacer in the rear, but I think it would work fine...just make sure you run a 225 up front at the maximum

oh, and get those fenders rolled as much as humanly possible...

for reference:

I have 19 * 8.5 up front et 38 225/35
in rear 19 * 9.5 et38 255/20/19

I am lowered approx 2.5" all around (on a full tank I barely tuck rim the back, and I always tuck tire at least)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v373/trefiveincognito/C230/July%2006/car2new.jpg
(1/4 tank of gas)

[DRM]

Originally posted by OCKlasse
that's funny that it's illegal to cut springs there...if you did a 20 * 8.5 all around with a 35-38mm you should be fine...you might want to run a spacer in the rear, but I think it would work fine...just make sure you run a 225 up front at the maximum

oh, and get those fenders rolled as much as humanly possible...

for reference:

I have 19 * 8.5 up front et 38 225/35
in rear 19 * 9.5 et38 255/20/19

I am lowered approx 2.5" all around (on a full tank I barely tuck rim the back, and I always tuck tire at least)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v373/trefiveincognito/C230/July%2006/car2new.jpg
(1/4 tank of gas)

lol yeah a lot of people still cut springs over here but the cars aren't usually worth the insurance so its not a problem heh or they hope they don't get caught.

hopefully a 20*8.5 will fit. just need to find a tyre combination that will keep the aspect ratio!

yeah your ride height is awesome, hoping to get something like that, but it might be a little higher in the front lol.

So you are fitting 19*8.5's 225/35 in the front, have you used spacers?

Here is some more info about the rims:

I looked and my offset is ET37 on all 4 wheels.

Here are some of the rules you have to adhere to when changing rims in aus that I might conflict with:


The fitment of wheel spacers (or adaptors for dual wheel conversions) between the wheel mounting face
and the road wheel is not permitted unless fitted as original equipment by the vehicle manufacturer.

So I don't think I will be able to fit spacers apart from if I can get mercedes oem spacers and fit them?


Speedometer accuracy must be maintained for the selected tyre and rim combination.

If aspect ratio can somehow be maintained this rule should be fine.

Once these wheels are fitted I have to take it to an automotive engineer and he will say whether it is roadworthy or not. But I have never dealt one of these engineers so I don't know how thorough they will be on the mods. Like if the speedo is 0.3% off I don't know if they will be too strict on it.

[OCKlasse]

Originally posted by DRM
lol yeah a lot of people still cut springs over here but the cars aren't usually worth the insurance so its not a problem heh or they hope they don't get caught.

hopefully a 20*8.5 will fit. just need to find a tyre combination that will keep the aspect ratio!

yeah your ride height is awesome, hoping to get something like that, but it might be a little higher in the front lol.

So you are fitting 19*8.5's 225/35 in the front, have you used spacers?

Here is some more info about the rims:

I looked and my offset is ET37 on all 4 wheels.

Here are some of the rules you have to adhere to when changing rims in aus that I might conflict with:


The fitment of wheel spacers (or adaptors for dual wheel conversions) between the wheel mounting face
and the road wheel is not permitted unless fitted as original equipment by the vehicle manufacturer.

So I don't think I will be able to fit spacers apart from if I can get mercedes oem spacers and fit them?


Speedometer accuracy must be maintained for the selected tyre and rim combination.

If aspect ratio can somehow be maintained this rule should be fine.

Once these wheels are fitted I have to take it to an automotive engineer and he will say whether it is roadworthy or not. But I have never dealt one of these engineers so I don't know how thorough they will be on the mods. Like if the speedo is 0.3% off I don't know if they will be too strict on it.

I technically has a 43 offset up front, but have a hubcentric 5mm spacer. I don't think anyone would notice if you had a spacer on there, and I doubt they would look that carefully, but maybe I am crazy...

[DRM]

Alright so is offset measured in mm? like your 43 offset compared to my 37 offset, is your wheel 6mm closer to the suspension (minus your 5mm spacer) so 1mm closer to the suspension than my 37 offset?

what spacer did you buy? don't H&R do them? Are there any MB ones you can buy?

[OCKlasse]

Originally posted by DRM
Alright so is offset measured in mm? like your 43 offset compared to my 37 offset, is your wheel 6mm closer to the suspension (minus your 5mm spacer) so 1mm closer to the suspension than my 37 offset?

what spacer did you buy? don't H&R do them? Are there any MB ones you can buy?

yes it is measure in mm...yeah that would mean it is closer to the suspension by 6 mm...but I have a 5mm offset on it, so it's technically a 38mm offset.

I bought one off ebay - you can find H & R etc, but to be honest, as long as it's hubcentric, that's all you will need.

[DRM]

okay cool thanks for the info. was just thinking that if the engineer (or if I have an accident the person from the insurance company) assessing my car for roadworthiness sees a mercedes star on the spacer he will take it for a factory installed part, rather than a shiny H&R one lol. But hey they might not even look, never dealt with one before and hope never to have an accident lol :D

[rman]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v373/trefiveincognito/C230/July%2006/car2new.jpg

this picture makes me think that i can fit 20's on my current suspension

[NoRemedy]

Originally posted by OCKlasse
of course, why else would you get bigger wheels...I guess you can tell me one would buy for wider wheels for wider more aggressive tires, but let's be blunt here; people buy wheels for the aesthetics of them.

Very true, but I maintain my view point. Big wheels do serve only for looks. This has been proven before, they make the car slower and make the car handle worse. Ride quality suffers, not to mention they make the car lose it's capablilty to slow down effectively (with stock brakes mind you). Not everybody will buy wheels based soley upon looks. Weight and durablilty are important factors to lots of people. However you are right in one aspect, uping the size of the wheel (in moderation) is also only for looks. I'd be kidding myself if I said I didn't like the way 17's looked on my 280 vs. the stock 15's. I could probably pull the same track times with the same tires. Bottom line a +1 or +2 size from the factory size using the same tire all throughout will do you just as good as the factory size itself. (if wheel weight isn't factored). It's once the wheels get too big (19's 20's etc.) everything suffers.

[OCKlasse]

Originally posted by NoRemedy
Very true, but I maintain my view point. Big wheels do serve only for looks. This has been proven before, they make the car slower and make the car handle worse. Ride quality suffers, not to mention they make the car lose it's capablilty to slow down effectively (with stock brakes mind you). Not everybody will buy wheels based soley upon looks. Weight and durablilty are important factors to lots of people. However you are right in one aspect, uping the size of the wheel (in moderation) is also only for looks. I'd be kidding myself if I said I didn't like the way 17's looked on my 280 vs. the stock 15's. I could probably pull the same track times with the same tires. Bottom line a +1 or +2 size from the factory size using the same tire all throughout will do you just as good as the factory size itself. (if wheel weight isn't factored). It's once the wheels get too big (19's 20's etc.) everything suffers.

Big wheels if heavy are the issue. My wheels weigh practically what my stock ones did (they are two piece aluminum), and yes I feel more of the road, as expected with such a low profile tire, but I don't necessarily agree that my car does not brake as well, I feel it brakes even better. Reason? I have much better tires than the factory ones (Dunlop SP Sort Maxx - although I loved P Zero Rosso when I had them also). My car also performs and handles much better - around turns especially. Why? Because I have a staggered combo (with a wide 255 in the rear), so my rear never fish tails when I floor it around a hard corner. Of course it is all subjective, but I think the issue here is weight, not size.

[NoRemedy]

Originally posted by OCKlasse
Big wheels if heavy are the issue. My wheels weigh practically what my stock ones did (they are two piece aluminum), and yes I feel more of the road, as expected with such a low profile tire, but I don't necessarily agree that my car does not brake as well, I feel it brakes even better. Reason? I have much better tires than the factory ones (Dunlop SP Sort Maxx - although I loved P Zero Rosso when I had them also). My car also performs and handles much better - around turns especially. Why? Because I have a staggered combo (with a wide 255 in the rear), so my rear never fish tails when I floor it around a hard corner. Of course it is all subjective, but I think the issue here is weight, not size.

I agree, weight is very important. That is actually where feeling of the road comes from and not so much but not limited to wheel size. Tires play the most important role in a vehicles handling, braking and acceleration capabilities. A vehicles threshold largley depends upon the tires threshold. This is why you can punch it around corners and maintain traction and control. Staggered fitment doesn't really have a lot to do with traction (maybe a small portion but nothing significant), nor so much width (adding width though does help). My brother can go full acceleration through corners in his Honda Civic and maintain complete control with absolutely no understeer. I've actually witnessed him embarass guys with corvettes at several autocross events. His car is equipped with 14' momo's with incredible tires. Falken Azenis RT 615's. Again tires play a vital role in vehicle thresholds. Since you didn't list what size wheels your car is equipped, I really can't argue the fact that your car would or would not handle differently according to wheel size. Nor would I tell you how your car handles as I have never driven or riden along.
Since all vehicles are different in handling characteristics different sized wheels can be used with no benefit or loss in performance. For example, My mercedes could be equiped with the 15' alloys from the factory and excellent tires. Let's just say Michelin Pilot Exalto Sports (195/65r15) and ran a lap at Mid Ohio. It's certain that I would most likely run the same time with 17' wheels (similar weight mind you) with the same tire, different size though (225/45r17). This variation in size goes for any car. Also for any car, wheels can become too big. It's certain that my car equipped with 19's or 20's with the same tire would suffer lap times. This is basic knowledge for anyone who attends autocrosses, track days, pdx events etc. on a regular basis. Pick up any publication (not magazines because they're biased toward sponsers) that tells you how to build a track car or autocrosser, and they'll say the same thing, from experience. Basically bigger wheels aren't bad, too big of a wheel is. Remember the larger the wheel the heavier it tends to be. Obviosly 17' Volk TE37's weigh absolutely nothing compared to a 15' Mercedes alloy. But an 18' Volk TE37 weighs more than a 17' Volk TE37. These sizes are only for examples. 19's could probably function for a much larger, heavier vehicle, like a CL55. I'm not saying it would, but it may. A CL55 has different characteristics than a C280. But like any vehicle wheels can be too big.
As for your braking, no you probably don't feel a difference. This is mostly for the guys that have like 24's on Escalades. Talk to somebody who has a similar setup with no brake upgrades and they'll tell you. However, I'd be willing to wager that your 60-0 braking distance would be shorter (only by a few feet maybe less) with smaller diameter wheels using the same exact tires as much larger diameter wheels (19's or 20's) You probably wouldn't see a difference in 16's or 17's versus the stock 15's.

[DRM]

Okay,

So on the car at the moment I have:

195/65/15 front and rear
ET37 front and rear
#3 Pads front and rear

So I guess the choices that have to be made are:

What tyre should I get to closely match the aspect ratio of my
195/65/15's if I am fitting 20*8.5 wheels up front and on the back?

Some have been getting 225/30/20.

The wheels I want to get have a range of offsets but 40 is the
closest to my ET37's, so these would be 3 mm closer to the suspension than mine?

Ahh I rang one wheel shop and they seem to think I won't need
spacers with a 45 offset wheel too!? they have done like 5 or 6 w202's with 20's as well?

spacers don't seem to be an option for me at the moment as they seem to be illegal according to regulations and wheel shops,
so unless i got some mercedes benz stamped ones I won't be able to fit them... any advice on this one?
one wheel shop thinks I don't need spacers for the 40 offset as well?


And lastly, I have the #3 pads in the rear and in the front
so should I get #1's all around?

I think I only have one chance with the pads as it will be a bitch to fit the springs with #2's and then put the wheels back on and figure I want #1's in there..
so even if I bought both #1's and #2's for front and rear I would still have to fk around with changing them over if I don't like the drop

:dead:

[OCKlasse]

Originally posted by NoRemedy
I agree, weight is very important. That is actually where feeling of the road comes from and not so much but not limited to wheel size. Tires play the most important role in a vehicles handling, braking and acceleration capabilities. A vehicles threshold largley depends upon the tires threshold. This is why you can punch it around corners and maintain traction and control. Staggered fitment doesn't really have a lot to do with traction (maybe a small portion but nothing significant), nor so much width (adding width though does help). My brother can go full acceleration through corners in his Honda Civic and maintain complete control with absolutely no understeer. I've actually witnessed him embarass guys with corvettes at several autocross events. His car is equipped with 14' momo's with incredible tires. Falken Azenis RT 615's. Again tires play a vital role in vehicle thresholds. Since you didn't list what size wheels your car is equipped, I really can't argue the fact that your car would or would not handle differently according to wheel size. Nor would I tell you how your car handles as I have never driven or riden along.
Since all vehicles are different in handling characteristics different sized wheels can be used with no benefit or loss in performance. For example, My mercedes could be equiped with the 15' alloys from the factory and excellent tires. Let's just say Michelin Pilot Exalto Sports (195/65r15) and ran a lap at Mid Ohio. It's certain that I would most likely run the same time with 17' wheels (similar weight mind you) with the same tire, different size though (225/45r17). This variation in size goes for any car. Also for any car, wheels can become too big. It's certain that my car equipped with 19's or 20's with the same tire would suffer lap times. This is basic knowledge for anyone who attends autocrosses, track days, pdx events etc. on a regular basis. Pick up any publication (not magazines because they're biased toward sponsers) that tells you how to build a track car or autocrosser, and they'll say the same thing, from experience. Basically bigger wheels aren't bad, too big of a wheel is. Remember the larger the wheel the heavier it tends to be. Obviosly 17' Volk TE37's weigh absolutely nothing compared to a 15' Mercedes alloy. But an 18' Volk TE37 weighs more than a 17' Volk TE37. These sizes are only for examples. 19's could probably function for a much larger, heavier vehicle, like a CL55. I'm not saying it would, but it may. A CL55 has different characteristics than a C280. But like any vehicle wheels can be too big.
As for your braking, no you probably don't feel a difference. This is mostly for the guys that have like 24's on Escalades. Talk to somebody who has a similar setup with no brake upgrades and they'll tell you. However, I'd be willing to wager that your 60-0 braking distance would be shorter (only by a few feet maybe less) with smaller diameter wheels using the same exact tires as much larger diameter wheels (19's or 20's) You probably wouldn't see a difference in 16's or 17's versus the stock 15's.

these are all valid arguments, but I don't think many people here are tracking their cars (to the point where choosing a wheel I want vs. losing a second on a track - know what I mean?)...Most guys I have seen just use their stockies at the track with some upgraded tires (don't want to waste their tread on their more expensive tires, or f their n wheels up)...my point was just that there are always exceptions to everything...cheers :bunny:

by the way, I have 225 up front and 255 in the rear (205 stock for me)...as far as braking I did feel a difference, from my tires especially (although I think my PZeros were the best at braking, these ones are pretty damn good too...)

[Anerencetard73]

Shakira is having sex!

[ncd]

Originally posted by Anerencetard73
Shakira is having sex!


DO NOT FOLLOW HIS LINK.. THE LAME ASS WIPE IS SPEADING VIRUSBURSTER

[DRM]

Okay so I am ordering the rims today, should be here mid next week!

I have the option of 35 or 40 offset? I have 37 at the moment.

I can't use spacers also. The guy at the shop said it doesn't matter about the offset because he can machine them if they don't fit?

I am thinking of going 40 offset?

[MirageHatch]

nice!

Dude I hope you dont have any probs with rubbing etc!

I have 18's and lowered with Koni and I get rubbing on front right all the time! it's tucking about 5-7" of tyre all around, i love it tho. I gotta get the guard rolled.

[Proven Guilty]

Originally posted by DRM
Okay so I am ordering the rims today, should be here mid next week!

I have the option of 35 or 40 offset? I have 37 at the moment.

I can't use spacers also. The guy at the shop said it doesn't matter about the offset because he can machine them if they don't fit?

I am thinking of going 40 offset?

i dont think 40 would work up front because of the suspension limitations - but you could machine it down.

35 is probably a safest bet, but be ready for rubbing issues like mad.

[DRM]

Alright we will see how it goes, I am thinking we will probably have to machine anyway.

Yes it will be interesting to see how the rubbing goes lol. Guards will be rolled straight up.

[OCKlasse]

a 40 offset works up front with a 8.5" RIM (I am at a ET40)

[DRM]

Alright thanks man good to know.

[DRM]

ahhhhh so today the guy at the shop says there are none in the warehouse, so I have to wait mid to late january... such a pain in the ass.