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rollinrealbig
11-26-2006, 08:50 PM
just a little curious, I found a shop that can port my M111 head and I can also get the crankshaft & flywheel balanced.

but what performance gains would I expect with a ported head and balanced crank flywheel rods pistons ect. ???

I see how much trouble 23K has with those JE pistons so im thinking can stock pistons be lightened at all ??

what type of trouble would i run into adding an M45 and making it to where it was always engaged unlike the C230K's w/electromagnetic clutch ?

I dont want to put up a hundred useless threads asking these silly questions so ill ask as many questions in this one hoping ill get some info!

If I research and get the info I need I will start putting 2 + 2 together and adding up my costs!

Mercedes DIY
11-26-2006, 09:10 PM
just throw in a 3.2 inline six. mega squirt it. dial things in, then slap on a turbo or supercharger... or both =)

c280nz
11-26-2006, 09:29 PM
im sure you could use a few of pauls (23k) pistons and they will work fine in your car im sure hes just bitching and wining about nothing and there fine

haha jus jokes paul :D

rollinrealbig
11-26-2006, 10:32 PM
im asking because I need to have a project or something to do during free time. maybe buying an M111K cheap if it has high miles or blown gasket and race re-building it so that I can just drop it in when its ready and not having to have my w202 sit there during this process.

I dont know why Paul has had so many issues with all those pistons, all I remember is seeing a pyramid of pistons. :p

omeyhomey
11-26-2006, 11:54 PM
honestly take it one step at a time. first optimize the intake and exhaust systems. then get software, then go from there. But until you've done almost all the bolt on s you can you shouldn't start thinking about alot of this other stuff yet b/c there is still more power to be had easier for less $$. just a suggestion.

Proven Guilty
11-27-2006, 08:07 AM
porting and polishing is basically just as the title says. what it does, is take all of the rough edges from casting, and makes them super smooth. this allows air to move with less turbulence and better flow.

also, machine shops have the ability to open up some of the clearances that could be used to optimize air flow throghout the chambers of the intake. for example, it's safe to bore a chevy 350 .60 over, since the thickness of the cylinder walls allows you to safely do this. you simply take out excessive metal allowing more space inside. the plus side to boring out a cylinder wall isin't just increasing displacement with adding bigger pistons, but its also used to polish out scratches from dirt and carbon particles that can cause loss of compression from the seal not being as tight around the piston (commonly called "blow-by").

i think its pretty safe to port and polish the head without doing any programming to the ECU, since it will be such a subtle change on the rest of the stock internals that it will compensate using the o2 sensor readings.

you can always take weight out of stock pistons, but the pistons, rods, and crankshaft will not be strong enough for boost if you keep everything stock. when you balance the entire "rolling assembly" that means they balance the crank, pistons and rods together. when they balance your stock pistons, they will generally weight all of them, and use the lightest one as the "master". this allows them to shave weight from the other pistons so that they are all the equal amount of weight.

the closer the rolling assembly is balanced, the safer it is to raise the red line. however, when doing that, you also need to beef up the top end of the valvetrain.

i could go on and on, but nothing helps more than doing your homework :)

as far as boost goes, if you wanted to keep mostly stock internals, you would want to go with lower compression pistons at best (forged recommended) and look about the possibilty of a crankshaft swap from a diesel (if one is comparable to the M111). a diesel crankshaft is usually hardened steel, and designed to take some serious punishment.

Pagz
11-27-2006, 09:58 AM
Originally posted by c280nz
im sure you could use a few of pauls (23k) pistons and they will work fine in your car im sure hes just bitching and wining about nothing and there fine

haha jus jokes paul :D


Secretly.......i wanted extra sets to fob off to 202 members for big money to support my p consuption...if only it could have taken alittle less time to get them...like before i lost the plot:D

Pagz
11-27-2006, 11:43 AM
Might have to spark alittle controversy;)...

Port design is very application specific...air speed is very high in this area....increasing the port diameter decreases air speed...which can lead to poor cylinder filling and swirl...in some cases resulting in loss of torque etc...same goes for larger valves.

when they ported mine it was decided for the steet car it was,we would only remove material that interupted airflow....areas around the valve stems...inperfections in the casting etc...we did not remove material where the ports divide,the radius there is also a critcal point along with port roof/wall and floor shape.

Valve seat design is another area altogether...I havent researched it,just left it in the hands of the experts...
the cylinder head guys did a 5-6 angle grind on the intake seats,and a full radius grind on the exhaust seats!...

Balancing can also gain you "a" to "a few" hp...all depending on how far out it is from the factory,the hp you will make will come from energy not being lost against the bearings due to out of balance wieght...so your higher RPM range will benifit more from this along with engine life.

Removing weight from the M111 pistons should only be done to balance them...,you will not gain much by trying to lighten them as you will be limited to where you can remove material...the safest place is usually inside the piston either side above the wrist pin in most cases....anywhere else and you effect strength and heat expansion...larger skirts like on the M111 are egg shapped in designed...this allows the pin boss area to expand at a seperate rate under heat and not push the tolerances to far on the outer skirt to wall clearances...

The most common opinion with head and internal work is to leave it until all other external work has been done...Internal work generally has a poor $/Hp ratio in most cases.

Pagz
11-27-2006, 11:59 AM
Reminds me of the old B18CR integra i had....the new owner told me he had installed new cams,cam gears,intake manifold etc and gain another 15Kw,but he cant get close to the old strip times...I wouldnt mind betting its lost bottom end torque and is more suited to circuit use now rather than street.

Same goes for the intake manifold im making now...its going to be interesting....real interesting...i may go to the trouble of dynoing the old and the new somehow...which will be difficult.
i would expect some loss in bottom end torque.

Paul

Pagz
11-27-2006, 12:01 PM
no post whore here...o0