Track Day Preparations

[Kompressor_Dude]

Hi guys,

I got my C230k sport a few months ago now, iv sorted out a couple of probs on it and it goes like a bullet now, i love it!

Only problem is these busy, winding UK roads really arent any good for driving fast (its dangerous for me and other people) so iv decided to take the car to a track day to see what its really got going for it :)

Question now is, what can i do to prepare for the day? It's quite expensive so i wanna get the most out of it and go as quick as i can. The thing's iv thought of so far are below but if anyone's got any other suggestions let me know, iv had new tyres and brakes recently so they should be in top conditon.

99 octane fuel (shell optimax etc.)
Octane booster (??)
Lose the spare wheel
Remove rear seats


Cheers.... oh, should get some good track photo's too so i'll clean the car up before-hand and post them :)

[ncd]

Originally posted by Kompressor_Dude
Hi guys,

I got my C230k sport a few months ago now, iv sorted out a couple of probs on it and it goes like a bullet now, i love it!

Only problem is these busy, winding UK roads really arent any good for driving fast (its dangerous for me and other people) so iv decided to take the car to a track day to see what its really got going for it :)

Question now is, what can i do to prepare for the day? It's quite expensive so i wanna get the most out of it and go as quick as i can. The thing's iv thought of so far are below but if anyone's got any other suggestions let me know, iv had new tyres and brakes recently so they should be in top conditon.

99 octane fuel (shell optimax etc.)
Octane booster (??)
Lose the spare wheel
Remove rear seats


Cheers.... oh, should get some good track photo's too so i'll clean the car up before-hand and post them :)

man theres so much you can do if you got the papers.. in a limited time I'm not so sure..
there is a garage near me that sells 100 ocatain, the car is like a ROCKET on that stuff.

And yes I would have to agree its dangerious on our constricted roads, she just doesnt have the handling ;( and the cost on brakes pads is un imaginable..
one thing you can try is to descreen the MAF.
for straight sprints take out a couple of bar of presure out of the back tyres for more stickyness ... it really works, but i believe the back becomes far more twitchy.

try and do a run with out the panel filter for what its worth..
How much did the track rental cost? Ive heard you can goto a old run way strip some where and let rip on it..
I would like to do this when I have the carsoft diagnostic system and get some dyno reports .. to make it pay for its self in some way heheh

[Kompressor_Dude]

Its £120 for four 20min sessions, the first of which you have a qualified race driver riding shotgun to show you some techniques/lines etc.

Its at Thruxton race course, but they do them at Silverstone, Brands Hatch, all of the big ones really :)

Iv read about the MAF but it seems to be doing its job and from previous posts its a bit tempermental too so might leave it be!

As for running it without the pannel filter, i'd rather run it without brakes! would be so easy to pick up some grit its just not worth it, even performance cars run filters so it seems a crazy risk!

Any other places to drop some weight would be great, probably the main downfall of the car..... its big fat ass!

Also, has anyone done anything similar to this in their W202? how quickly am i looking at going through my brakes/tyres? I accept an hours hard driving will take its toll but an idea as to how badly wold be useful! :)

[ncd]

Originally posted by Kompressor_Dude
Its £120 for four 20min sessions, the first of which you have a qualified race driver riding shotgun to show you some techniques/lines etc.

Its at Thruxton race course, but they do them at Silverstone, Brands Hatch, all of the big ones really :)

Iv read about the MAF but it seems to be doing its job and from previous posts its a bit tempermental too so might leave it be!

As for running it without the pannel filter, i'd rather run it without brakes! would be so easy to pick up some grit its just not worth it, even performance cars run filters so it seems a crazy risk!

Any other places to drop some weight would be great, probably the main downfall of the car..... its big fat ass!

Also, has anyone done anything similar to this in their W202? how quickly am i looking at going through my brakes/tyres? I accept an hours hard driving will take its toll but an idea as to how badly wold be useful! :)

I would love to know how 3-5mm paticulites were making to my MAF sensor (before I descreaned it) if the pannel filter does such a great job.. that or as Ive suspected the IC or its pipeing is flaking apart in some way, which turns every thing on its head.

I would not do the pannel filter with out the MAF's plastic screen in place atleast, but I dont know about crazy in controlled conditions, my mate drove his ford probe and a few cars around with no filter box for some months -lol.. when me and him were into big sounding exhaust and inductions... both fine and still driving around today, all back to stock with new happy owners moreless.

I also gave my first car a little corsa a few trips with out it when I was fitting my first induction cone ! .. no real harm done.

but basically if you got money to spend... yea why waste time with the risky road :D

Therock will concur with me, with out the MAF screen the car is a bit more spirited.. I hazzard a gues.. maybe it can just measure CFM more instantly and directly.. giving slightly better ecu maps.

[kameraguy]

The suspension and weight savings speedybenz has done on his C43 might be of interest:

http://www.club202.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1240

[ncd]

Originally posted by kameraguy
The suspension and weight savings speedybenz has done on his C43 might be of interest:

http://www.club202.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1240

what about a temp lighter weight battary.. though youll probably find thats all that keeps the arse on the tar mac :)

[Renn 208]

If this is your first time taking the car out on the track, I'd change you approach entirely. Instead of focusing on mods and tweaks to make your car "faster" I'd focus on modifying your driving technique first and foremost. That's where you'll gain the most time on the track. Also, performance mods are moot without having an understanding of where the most gains are to be made.

Swaping out for lighter parts and what have you can make your car capable of a .2 sec reduction in lap times all other things being equal, but having the right attitude and focus on your driving instruction can reduce lap times by more like 15 seconds in some cases....not to mention keep you and your car out of the wall.

To best prepare for your first track day, I would focus on the basics. In what condition is your oil? What about your brakes? Do you have a set of fresh pads? Is your stock suspension fully sorted and free from loose ends and cracked bushings? Are your wheels properly torqued? Do your tires have plenty of tread all the way across, and are they properly inflated? Are there any other basic maintenance items that should be taken care of first? There's no sense adding performance mods or go fast bits if there are basic maintenance items that need to be taken care of first. It's going to look silly if you spent all this money on a lightweight battery and modified MAF, if a rubber suspension bushing goes out on you while you're out on a hot lap and you end up having to tow your car home.

Actually even before all that, I'd make sure that you have a good helmet. For specific criteria, check with your track day group to make sure that it fits their requirements. Here in the US, we often require some form of SA certified auto helmet. Also, your track day group often will have a beginners guide to help you focus on what's really important for a track day.

Once you're sure that your car is in excellent mechanical condition, ready to pass tech, and you're ready to hit the track here are some quick tips:

1. Get to the track early and make all of your driver meetings!

2. Come well rested and fed, driving on the track will be physically demanding. Drink plenty of liquids throughout the day. The excitement of getting out on the track can often make you forget this important basic.

3. Be ready to learn! Driving on the track is NOTHING like driving out on public roads...and it's a difference that you can't understand without actually getting behind the wheel with an instructor. Unless you've been karting for a long period prior, your first task will be to focus on driving the proper line. For a beginner, driving a proper line will reduce your lap times more than anything else you might attempt.

4. Go slow to go fast. Try not to overdrive your car. Smoothness out on the track is the key. Be overly aggressive out on the track and you'll end up dropping a wheel or worse. Try to be as smooth as possible and the times will drop without you thinking about it. Don't focus on looking at your lap times and figuring out how to reduce them...driving beyond your personal ability will be a much greater concern than pushing your car to its limits.

5. Focus on proper braking and entering, and solid corner exits. Slow in Fast out...You might think that by super-late-braking that you'll gain some time, when in reality, there's more time to be gained by improving your corner exits. Before you work on left foot and trail braking...start with good straight line braking, heel and toe, and giving yourself plenty of room. Also, remember to be cognizant of others on the track...If you think that this is a race track and you think you're cool because you pass like a twat in the corners...you not only run the risk of beeing banned from the track day, but you risk the ire of your peers.

6. Make friends out on the track. Their experience will benefit you, and who knows...you might be in a pinch some day and need a ____ (tire iron, jack, air pressure gauge, helping hand, etc.) so it helps to not have to do everything solo.

7. Don't push yourself too far, especially during the most dangerous time periods - the first session of the day and the last session of the day-. The first is dangerous because no one has a good idea of the track conditions. Is the track damp with morning dew and extra slick? Was there some oil in turn 3 from yesterday that wasn't cleaned up fully? Take it easy and get familiar with the track. The last session of the day is dangerous because you'll most likely be tired from the day...but have the attitude of "just one more fast run before the day's done" Folks are likely to push beyond their abilities and end up in the wall in this last session. Take it easy and everyone goes home in their cars!

8. Pay attention to your car's needs. Watch your tire pressures as they go from cold to hot. Use the cool down lap to cool down the car...not eek out ever last hot lap that you can. After a session, try to stay off the brakes as much as possible, and do not use the parking brake or you may end up depositing pad material on your brakes. This also helps the rotor to cool evenly and prevent cracking.

9. This is not a race.

10. Have fun and try not to let your attachments get the best of your brain. You'll get faster, sooner, and you'll have an even more focused mindset when it actually does come to deciding on what to do to your driving and car to make you faster.

[Lensolo]

Renn said it best when he said "This is not a race" For your first time on the track, thta's great advice. Just trying to drive fast is not all that fun unless you know what lines you're supposed to follow, when and where to brake, and when and where to punch the throttle. Try to drive the track yourself, then take along an instructor and have him give you tips. It will most likely be a night and day difference and also more fun. Hands at 9:30 and 2:30 for as long as possible, and make sure you cool your brakes before you set your e-brake.

[xvvvz]

As Renn mentioned, tire pressure adjustment is probably going to be one of your most productive changes and easiest to do. Optimum tire pressure for road driving is different from the track (usually benefits from higher pressure). Your instructor should have some guidance on the changed to make and hopefully will have a gauge and pump on site if you don't have either. Take ALL of the uneeded crap out of the car. Not so much for weigh as for keeping crap from flying about and distracting you. Take a big RubberMaid storage bin along to throw the "can't leave at home" stuff in and leave it in the paddock while you are on track (jack, tools, etc.) Make sure your battery is still strapped down (most tracks will require your car to go through a safety check but you want to fix any potential issues BEFORE you go to the track!) . Google the web for sites on autocrossing (www.scca.org in the U.S. is a good site). You will find lots of info. aimed at first-timers which will help you sort your car out. A couple are:

http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm

http://www.tirerack.com/features/solo2/handbook.htm#tips

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showthread.php?t=113894

I wouldn't try any modification to your car like removing the air filter, MAF screen, etc. The chances for gains will be minimal but on the other hand if they cause a problem it could ruin you whole day at the track.

My $.02...

[speedybenz]

What Renn said is spot on!!. The only thing I could add would be to buy some track rated brake pads for the front. Without a brake pad that can take high temp's, your track day will be a exercise on how to keep your brakes cool and to keep them from fading.

To help you come to grips with the speed you will have to learn to look far ahead. Looking to close at the track will cause everything to speed up in your mind and give you a sense that you are being rushed to make desions on line, brake points, etc. Looking up the farther ahead will allow you to make better desionsand will make the track seem less rushed and "thrown in your Face"

Jeff

[Kompressor_Dude]

Fantastic advice, thanks everyone! Especially Renn, have you done many track days before in the 202?

I've looked at some of those basics mentioned but there are a few things i'll look into further. some racing front pads sounds like a good idea, iv just replaced all of the pads/tyres but higher spec track pads will save these new ones for the road afterwards :)

As for the performance mods, im not under the impression i'll suddenly become Michael Schumacher and be shaving off 10'ths of a second :D just wanted to make the car feel as fast and responsive as possible to get the most benefit/enjoyment out of the day!

Cheers for the driving tips, there's a PS2 game with the track on it so that'd be useful for learning the corners/lines roughly before i go.

Will have a good think about tyre pressures too as they seem to be important.

Iv owned motorbikes previously so have an EU standard Arai helmet to use :)

Does anyone else have any words of wisdom to add?!

[Renn 208]

Sadly...I haven't done nearly as many track days as I would like...but I do vividly remember my "beginner" experiences.

If you want our track driving and preparation expert, I humbly defer to SpeedyBenz...he's got more skill and experience than all of us combined. (Unless there's another champion racer lurking on the boards)

[ncd]

Originally posted by Renn 208
Sadly...I haven't done nearly as many track days as I would like...but I do vividly remember my "beginner" experiences.

If you want our track driving and preparation expert, I humbly defer to SpeedyBenz...he's got more skill and experience than all of us combined. (Unless there's another champion racer lurking on the boards)

which ps game has the track in it komp_dude..

[speedybenz]

The only thing I might also say(Renn has already said this in his post) is to remember to have fun. To breath while your in the car and to not grip the steering wheel so hard your hands cramp-up.

The breathing part is serious as I have seen others who get so wound up they forget to breath natually and this justs upsets both you and your ability to control the car.

While your out on the track pick your braking markers and use them to moniter your braking start area. If you find later that the locations you choose is allowing you to brake completely well before you turn into the corner then move the brake marker up a car length. Try not to rush the corners and be the latest of the late braker's.

Try to develop a rythium or flow to your driving. Try not to turn into the corners too soon as that will lead your car to run wide at the exit, not good. It is very important to be smooth on the throttle and with the steering wheel. Getting off the gas real fast will load up the front tires by transfering weight quickly, which can cause a spin or push depending on the location and your speed.

GO AND HAVE FUN!!! Don't pressure yourself too hard. Remember that you car goes where your eyes go.

Jeff

[omeyhomey]

Over the counter octane boosters are a SCAM, pure garbage. there is only ONE real true octane booster: Toluene / Xylene. They are 114 / 117 octane respectively but i've tried both and toluene is better for some reason. Run 1 gallon per half tank and you can boost your entire tanks octane level by 3-5 full NUMBERS (not just "points" aka decimal points). so from 91-95 ish, 93 to 98ish. you dont need anything higher htan that. and the best part is just one gallon does the trick. much cheaper than buying $10 gallons of race gas at extreme prices.

Also take all excess weight and loose particles out of the car. make sure tire pressures are exact & precise. do not run without air filter or anything like that
majority of the time improvement on the track is b/c of the drivers improvement not b/c of performance enhancement. the avg driver can drop their lap times by as much as 15-20 seconds after having been properly trained which is a HUGE amount. if you really plan on tracking the car make sure you address swaybars & suspension components. Also if you have a stick car DO NOT PUT E-BRAKE ON AFTER COMING OFF A HARD LAP, YOU WILL WARP YOUR ROTORS.

[ncd]

Wance youve got a feel of the track, and if you decide to go again, and if it was the height of summer it would be worth trying out a WI kit.

you could also convert the FI system to beable to run on ethanol, I know some one who did this to there RX7...

Got steel fuel lines?

[Renn 208]

NCD...it sounds like you're talking about 1/4 runs...which is not the subject of this thread.;)

As a second topic...I'm not convinced that putting the ebrake, or brakes at all on hot rotors will physically warp them. Deposit glazed pad matierials making the braking surface uneven, sure, cracking(especially on drilled rotors) absolutely. But I'm not so sure about warping specifically.

[xvvvz]

The way it has been explained to me is that when the brake pads are applied and left applied to seriously hot brake discs, the pads act as insulators and keep that part of the disc hotter for longer. This means that parts of the disc cool at different rates which can lead to warping.

[Renn 208]

I understand the thinking behind warped rotors...however, my suggestion is that the rotors themselves are not as prone to metallic deformation as most would think.

I'm suggesting that the uneven brake feeling is actually from pad deposits making the rotor surface uneven...rather than the rotor itself being out of round.

In any case, if you've got a few hours to kill here's an interesting and rather thorough debate on the topic:

Source of debate:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

extended debate (URL cited in first post is now dead):
http://www.thedieselstop.com/archives/ubbthreads/1999upg2/forums.thedieselstop.com/archives/showflat.php-Cat=&Number=1263164&page=3&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1.htm

I'll try to get this thread back on topic....so if there's any more question about the nature of rotor failure....perhaps it deserves it's own thread here.

[c280nz]

i couldnt be bothered reading all those loooong posts so l just jot a few points, from my experience from a semi recent track day i did.

-youl go through heaps of fuel, - my first session out i used a bit over 1/3 of a tank

- its hard on your brakes so use engine braking as much as you can, and if you give your brakes a hard going over cruise for a bit before you pull in to let them cool down, but if i was you id change to better pads for the day, cos youl prolly almost go through a set in the day, use ur more race oriented pads then change back afterwards.

- i would totally reccomend taking out weight tho! back seats and spare wheel will loose you like 40kg, equivalant to a small passanger.

-have fun and throw it around a bit and get some pics for the boys :D

[Kompressor_Dude]

:D thats the plan!

How easy are pads to change on these? iv done pads on renault clio's and peugeot 306's but nothing bigger, im assuming its the pretty much similar? Wanna paint the calipers anyway so might as well do the lot in one go.

If so i'll get some race pads up front, wear them in for a week or two on the roads then go toast them :)

Any recommendations on race pads?

Gonna start walking places instead of driving too - that should save some weight.... chrsitmas has taken its toll!:rolleyes: