Problems with rough idle/stalling - now wont start

[MirageHatch]

last week my car was rough idling, spluttering out the exhaust, revs were inconsistent and i couldnt drive it, was slightly hopping down the street while taking it home.

havent driven it since.

since then I have installed my stereo which has all been pretty smooth.

during the week when i would try to start the car it would turn over, revs go up, then stutter and jump down and then it stalls. accelerator would not do much and didnt seem to react when i tried to give it more revs.

would only stay on for 4-5 seconds.

now im not getting anything at all. turn the key, loud clicking sound from the engine bay and thats it, nothing.

battery is all good (i connected a 12v charger and it says it fully charged)

also my headlights are really dim, cd player wont turn on at all, dome lights dont work, windows do work but seem slower than usual, all dash lights are really dim.

I have checked all the fuses and they are fine.

any suggestions guys? I will take it to the mechanic but cant till tuesday as monday is public holiday... but just want some suggestions first, that would be great!

anyhting at all!??

[stox]

Check your battery connections and wires. Sounds like power is not making it out of the battery.

[MirageHatch]

okay, now my windows dont work, lights are even dimmer....and things are really not working.....

I'll go have a shot now and check all the connections

[MirageHatch]

ok double checked the connections to the battery.

I removed the stereo connections to the battery just to keep things simpler for now.

no luck as nothing has changed.

remote central not working at all, boot release not working, nothing is working.

when i put the key in it still goes "kwachew" as it 'recognises' the key and lights come on on instrument cluster but nothing else works and lights on cluster are very dim.

im stumped....

[stox]

Well, if the connections are good, next guess is that your battery is the culprit. A charger can "think" a battery is charged, while the battery is no longer functioning correctly. The real test, for a battery, is to test it under load. Most part shops will offer to test your battery under load.

[MirageHatch]

maybe this is the case, as the way things were slowly shutting off and stuff I think the battery must be dead, as the insturments lights are still dimly coming on the battery is obviously still able to put out its signal (the connections are all still good) but it's just so weak it's not doing anything

[rman]

my problem is similar, start and bog down and die.

but i haven't had any unusual electrical problems except ONCE my key was not locking/unlocking or doing the whole "kashew" thing. took a few minutes for it to work again....hmmm....

[c280steve]

whens the last time you changed ur fuel filter? when these cars shut off ive noticed wierd things with the electrical that go away when the car starts up and runs fine.

[MirageHatch]

charged my batt overnight and all electrics working again so that is sorted thanks!

now ill get it towed to the mechanic tomo to try to solve the revs/idle problem, its still stalling after 2-3 seconds still.

may be fuel or distrubuter related??

[stox]

Even though it took a charge, you may still have problems with the battery. You may also have a problem with the alternator, which in turn, is taking out the battery.

[MirageHatch]

i think the batt should be alright, it was just dead cos the car was sitting there all week with me working on the stereo (accessories on a lot!) and not being driven at all so im not surprised it was dead really.

im getting road side assist out today to have a look and then get a tow to either mecedes or an independant service place.

[MirageHatch]

had the raod assist guy out, he check out my car and came to the conclusion it was the air flow meter....so im guessing I have the same prob i've read on here a lot. the MAS is screwed.

Im going to try cleaning it perhaps with some contact cleaner but in a way it would be easier to just replace it as the cleaner may only be a quick fix and not last long...

anyone have an idea on price? genuine?

thanks for all your input, ill keep you updated!

[whitec230k]

crank position sensor?

[timmyj51]

If you mean the mass air flow meter replacing that's gonna be big $$$, $3-400, though you can put it in yourself.

[MirageHatch]

yea i've asked the mechanic to try cleaning it first, I would have but I couldnt drive it to the shop to get some contact cleaner :)

check out this link for a shot of my car at the moment as it gets ready for an outing......to the mechanic!

http://www.club202.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=120128#post120128

[DRM]

yeah definitely sounds like the maf is dirty/on its way out.

[MirageHatch]

Well mechanic tried cleaning the Mas/maf thingy and also tried a replacement 2nd hand one but problem was still there....so he's got a few other things he wants to try out so my car will most likely be there for the weekend.

I feel like i havent driven this car at all in 2 weeks.....probly cos I havent!

i miss it! haha im getting used to public transport now!

[stox]

Has he checked the coil packs?

[MirageHatch]

will get him to, will be calling him tomo.

cheers!

[MirageHatch]

well it was the air flow meter. he tried cleaning it. no luck. tried replacing with a used one. no luck. tried a new one. bang, it worked!

so that's all sorted, part was US$250 new so thats not bad.

he's just finishing up the service now and then ill pick it up tonight.

haven't driven the car in ages so it's gonna be good to be back on the road again!

[timmyj51]

" part was US$250 new so thats not bad."



Not bad at all. Where did you buy it?

[MirageHatch]

US$250 was actually a 2nd hand one! sorry!

brand new bosch not from stealership would have been about US$470. wouldnt want to imagine from dealership! eeek!