My back Tires !

[vcruiser]

the back tires for my carlsson rims are 255/35/18

i'm gonna have a hard time lowering the benz, won't I

Rolling the fenders should do the job right ?



thanks

[OCKlasse]

I have 255/30/19 on a 19 * 9.5 rims with an ET38 offset, and I am tucking rim in the back with a full tank of gas, and I get ZERO rubbing in the rear.

[vcruiser]

so you don't think it'll be a problem if i get h&r springs for my c36 ?

[RemoLexi]

im running 275/30/19 no rubbing issues even with three people in that back and I have chopped springs so its slammed.

[OCKlasse]

Originally posted by RemoLexi
im running 275/30/19 no rubbing issues even with three people in that back and I have chopped springs so its slammed.

What's your offset?

[Proven Guilty]

Originally posted by vcruiser
the back tires for my carlsson rims are 255/35/18

i'm gonna have a hard time lowering the benz, won't I

Rolling the fenders should do the job right ?



thanks

that tire width is easy street for the rears when going lowered suspension, but rubbing will still depend on the offset of your wheels.

however, i would recommend you sell the tires if you've already purchased them, or change your order to 255/30/19. the reason being; its okay to run a 35 profile up front but with a 35 profile in the rear, you're going to have issues with traction control freaking out randomly thinking the wheels are always breaking loose, as well as possibly losing functionality of your cruise control. one more thing is that it's going to change the aspect ratio which also slightly changes the gear ratio, and makes your speedometer readings innactute by as much as 3% per +5 profile

once in a great while, people have problems with the ABS brake sensors up front on 35 profile but 9 out of 10 times it's perfectly ok, and much more comfortable of a ride.

[RemoLexi]

Originally posted by OCKlasse
What's your offset?

umm ... I really dont know. but im using shorter bolts.

[RemoLexi]

Proven Guilty -

I want to run 30 series all around- I have rubbing in the front right wheel well. right now I have 35 series in the front and 30 in the back. I have no TCS, and everything else works perfectly fine (Cruize, ABS, speedo)

I cant tell if the speedo is off or not as I never paid attention before - why start now ?

I did notice it hold gears a little longer, like say in 4th I can reach 100mph from 40mph before it will shift. I want to know what will solve my frnt-right wheel-well rubbing issue - if I stack pads it wont be even. and if I run 30 series tires - will it alter my Cruize control, ABS ?

[Proven Guilty]

Originally posted by RemoLexi
umm ... I really dont know. but im using shorter bolts.
i'm 99% sure that if you pull one of the wheels off (Lorinser LM5s iirc?) they should be stamped on one of the spokes. typical mercedes c-class and e-class offsets will be between et40, and et30, and would most likely read just like that.

30 is actually the correct aspect ratio for the front and rears if you're running 19s, but for the comfort you can usually get away with 35 up front. your rubbing sounds like its most likelly related to the tire profile you were running before (if i recall, 245 front and 275 rears), so you'll probably have to get exotic on the front fenders if you want to run that wide of a tire.

for example, the stamp would look like "8.5J et35" which specifies the wheel is 8.5 inches wide, and the hub will sit +35mm from the outside edge of the wheel, regardless of spoke shape/curve to accomodate lip.

jstrat had some fender flares made for his c220t, and it came out decent, so you could go that route since you're not afraid to lay on some fiberglass and bondo.

as far as holding gears longer, that might be related to the rotational weight causing slower acceleration, and slower deceleration, as well as most automatic transmissions even when controlled by a TCU, will use vacuum preassure to help determine a good shift point. its only my speculation and educated guess, but the preassure may be different at certain speeds if you have an invalid aspect ratio for what the gears/trans were designed for, so the levels will be different.

that's just some hillbilly babble though, and like i said only my specualation.

[RemoLexi]

I checked the spoke and it read ET37.

Yea so ill plan to use 30 series up front when its time for that. it doesnt rub agianst the fenders at all (only under high speed U turns) even with the 245's up front. the fenders have been rolled and popped. it rubs agianst the metal underneath the airbox. and its rubs pretty bad since the edge of that tire is bald and its only been less then a month since I got these.

[bish0p]

correct me if i'm wrong.. but i thought you can only roll the front fenders. you can't roll the back

[Proven Guilty]

Originally posted by RemoLexi
I checked the spoke and it read ET37.

Yea so ill plan to use 30 series up front when its time for that. it doesnt rub agianst the fenders at all (only under high speed U turns) even with the 245's up front. the fenders have been rolled and popped. it rubs agianst the metal underneath the airbox. and its rubs pretty bad since the edge of that tire is bald and its only been less then a month since I got these.

yeah, i had a set of axis milanos i just recently sold, and they also had the ET37 offset. that offset is much better on an audi with 245 rubber, so i let them go. you'll want to grab some 5mm or 10mm spacers for the front to bring the offsets down, and that will push your wheels out wider into the wheel arches, so you'll have to roll and pull them again, but it'll be worth it.

just keep in mind, if you change the offsets too much from front to back, even on a staggered setup, you start meddling with the geometry of the car, and it's slip and grip angles, so if you run a 10mm spacer up front, its a good idea to match it in the rear, or at least 5mm to compliment it. you wouldn't notice too much loss though with that big fat tire in the back, since the rear end will be pretty firmly planted.

[Proven Guilty]

Originally posted by bish0p
correct me if i'm wrong.. but i thought you can only roll the front fenders. you can't roll the back

the rears you can trim the metal, as well as the plastic of the rear bumpers. they come rolled from the factory, so if you need even more room in the rear, you have to pull them.

[RemoLexi]

the rears I trimmed only one plastic part thats all, I cant add spacers in the rear since I cant even fit my pinky in between the tire and the arches.

if I add spacers up front my fenders will rub instead ... Hmm, maybe theres a way to push the fender well up more to give it clearence ...

[Proven Guilty]

ask ryan (ryhi) on the forums to snap some pics for you when he has time. its much much easier to correct rubbing from the fenders, than it is for suspension clearance. i would get the spacers and just get freaky on the fenders by pulling them out.

as a disclaimer, the metal and paint can only stretch so far, after a certain amount of manipulation, you'll likely need to repaint because the paint will crack around the edge of the wheel arches, but this is perfectly normal.

on the bright side, if you use like-sized spacers, and with 245 up front and 275 in the rear, the width also compliments, so it'll have a really aggressive stance, and isin't changing the geometry of the car's naturally designed slip and grip angle. that bitch would be PLANTED lol

[C280/////AMG]

There's another aspect/killjoy which you guys should consider before changing wheel sizes: A couple of insurance companies here claim that if you don't use a factory specified wheel/tyre combo on your car, they'll refuse to pay out in an accident as they claim that it alters the effectiveness of the ABS, traction control, and the balance/handling of the vehicle (which is certainly true). So before you go about changing wheels and stuff, have a look at the fine print in your policy, and if necessary, CHANGE YOUR INSURANCE COMPANY!!

[RemoLexi]

Originally posted by C280/////AMG
There's another aspect/killjoy which you guys should consider before changing wheel sizes: A couple of insurance companies here claim that if you don't use a factory specified wheel/tyre combo on your car, they'll refuse to pay out in an accident as they claim that it alters the effectiveness of the ABS, traction control, and the balance/handling of the vehicle (which is certainly true). So before you go about changing wheels and stuff, have a look at the fine print in your policy, and if necessary, CHANGE YOUR INSURANCE COMPANY!!

ive heard about that, but thats kind of like common sense ?? see if my car gets rear-ended my 19" rims couldnt have possibly caused the accident - but say I was drifting a corner spun out and ate the gaurd rails - no shit thats 100% my fault. so if you drive like a sane person you wouldnt have anything to worry about really, I mean if an accident is not your fault - then rims usually wont make a differance - but if you drive like a nut then why should insurence pay for your idiot behavior. do you see what im saying ? :) (note: im not directing the things said at you, just giving examples)

[C280/////AMG]

I agree, if you're rear ended, then they can't blame your wheels, but then using this logic, if the accident isn't your fault, the burden isn't on your insurance company but on the guilty party's insurance company. So if the accident isn't your fault, your insurance has nothing to do with the claim, however if it is your fault, they'll find anything they can not to payout. That's all i'm saying.

My uncle decided to slam on some 18''BBS rims on his 560SEC, and when he rear-ended someone, the insurance company refused to pay out because they claimed that the ABS was 'not syncronised with the wheels', and therefore his braking system was compromised.

Rather keep a set of stock rims in the garage and slap them on after the accident!!:p

[Proven Guilty]

100% derailed.