Acting like the REv limiter is engauging

[kraut]

- w202 2000 Kompressor
- 120k miles

Did and extensive search of threads but none cover the exact issue.

Problem - loss of power when pushing the peddle down further than 10%. Its a similar feeling to when the rev limiter kicks in = no power
- No CEL
- Just replaced Fuel filter and MAF
- Had K&N which fouled old MAF and intake with oil
- replaced with standard air filter and cleaned intake tubes

What else should I consider? Throttle actuator or O2 sensors?
02 sensors or any other sensor for that matter have never been replaced

Thanks for your help!

[Nelson Lago]

Did this start happening right after changing the fuel filter

[kraut]

No. The problem exisited before I changed the fuel filter. I just checked the intake and MAF again. There is oil present. I'm wondering if the Oil Seperator is bad? Been searching for more info about that and the PCV but not much out there.

[jnolte]

maybe something to do with your kompressor not engaging?

[kraut]

The kompressor is engaging. You can hear it. I replaced it 5k miles ago.

Does the oil seperator fail on these things? My understanding is that it provides ventilation for the crack case but should keep the oil inside vs letting it pass through the intake?

[benztec]

was it a new compressor or a rebuild? what codes are in the me control unit?

[kraut]

Supercharger was a rebuild from superchargerpros.com - great warrenty. I don't have the ability to pull codes. To clarify, no CEL

I doubt it's the supercharger because if I depress the pedal around 10% I can accellerate to whatever spead I like. I once had a supercharger fuse blow and the car kept running. It just didn't have any balls. Ran like me old non-kompressor c220

thanks for your reply! Keep 'em coming. If I can't solve this, I have to go to the stealer

[Denlasoul]

No CEL does not necessarily mean there are no codes.

Go have them pulled for free at your local auto supply store.

[kraut]

will do - thanks for the fdbk

[xvvvz]

Yes, the oil separator can get clogged on these.

If you are still getting oil in your intake, checking all of the parts of the crankcase ventilation system does seem like a good place to start.

[mazdalowandslow]

I wonder if there is a problem with the throtle switch , the drive by wire switch.

[Denlasoul]

Originally posted by kraut
will do - thanks for the fdbk
do keep us posted on what you find/discover.

[kraut]

Got a scanner/code reader. Got 1 code= P0110

"Intake Air
Temperature Sensor 1
Circuit"

Anyone get this code before? I recall seeing a table somewhere that lists codes. I'll search again but any feedback would be greatly appreciated

[Cru328prod]

1st of let me tell you guys howwwwwwwww much of a pain in the ass it issssssssssssssss it replace that pcv....

You have to take the intake manifold off, disconnet the fuel lines, intake tubing from the intercooler to t body, remove the fuel rails (injectors yank right out) and unplug some vac lines.

and its about like 20 bucks in parts! and it takes like a 1 1/2hr to do yourself with basic tools.....its really easy just alot of work

don't even think about reusing the hoses that connect to the pcv because 9/10 there dry rotted....acccutally you might have to scrape the hose of the 2 nipples on the engine to get them off (thats what i had to do)

buymbparts.com.....talk to rusty and ask him to pull up chris bisrams order...ask for the same parts like 2 hoses and pcv, you have too take the one line and cut it in half. it took like 4 days just to find the dam parts

i have a 1999 c230k it should be the same

you should do this anyway....also by like 2 bottles of intake manifold cleaner...your gonna need it once you start taking it apart and see the amount of crap in there
.................................................. .................................................. ....


you going to have to get that car plugged into SDS at mb stealership. You might have tranny problems, wire harness, or a bad t-body...or even a badddddddddd fuel pump (did you bother to check fuel pressure?)...there always a number of shit, and asking for help here can cause you more problems because you'll end up taking your wholeeee car apart and replacing alot of shit just to pin point 1 problem. You'll spend like $100 for them to do a quick di...bend you over and push it right in....and if you feel like spending an extra 50 bucks have them to do a smoke test on the vac lines..........they did that with mines....they found about 4 different cracks in the lines...1 in the supercharger, 1 some where next to the t body, 1 next to my boost gauge, and another 1 somewhere on the left side. When i got it back it pulled alot better

i highly recommend you do that pcv job 1st, also check your fuel pressure (if you can).......another stupied trick you can do before you go threw the hassle is disconnect your battery for a few hours and plug it back in....belive me stupied shit like that fixes alotttttttttttttttt. do bother going to most joe blow indie shops unless they have alot of mb experince.......you should have seen what they did to my oil cap! fu*kin idiots...1 guy almost took my caliper apart just to replace a fu*king rotor (thank god i was watching them do it)...oh and watching them put the tire back on without the toool is the most joyful thing you will ever experince hahahhahahhahahah

[Cru328prod]

Originally posted by kraut
Got a scanner/code reader. Got 1 code= P0110

"Intake Air
Temperature Sensor 1
Circuit"

Anyone get this code before? I recall seeing a table somewhere that lists codes. I'll search again but any feedback would be greatly appreciated

PLEASE TELL ME YOU BOUGHT A OEM, OR BOSHE REPLACEMENT MAF...............THAT EBAY SHIT WILL FU*KKKKKKKKKKK YOUR CARRRRRRRRRRRRR UPPPPPPPPPPPP

[kraut]

Bosch - same exact part that was on the car. I read that this code is associated with the MAF?

So, like I said on the previous post, the MAF has oil on it again so I'm wondering if the "oil seperator" (others call it PCV) is fouling the MAF and creating a perpetual problem causing the P0110 code?

Can I order a new one or is this something I have to clean?

Any point in taking to anyone other than the stealer at this point (unless he has SDS)?

[Cru328prod]

ifs it a brand new MAF...........theres MAF CLEANER.......DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELES....they sell it at auto zone........you have the same problems i have.........you have to do a flush in the intercooler....with some really good solvents, clean all the tubing connected to that......thats alll oil build up from stupied evappppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppp thats

get like some purple stuff cleaner......drup that shit in swish it all around, take hose with water.....and flush it some moreee...then take a wet vac and suck it all out.....

start taking all those lines out and cleaning them....but i'm not to sure thats going to solve your problems......

try unpluging the MAF and starting the car...and drive it and see what happens

[Cru328prod]

but do what i said 1st........unplug the battery for a few hours...and plug it back in

[benztec]

so if the "stealership" is too expensive and the indie shops are not good enough who works on your car??

[Cru328prod]

I have Gieco Mechincal Warrenty......for unlimited miles as long as i own the car.........i pay a 250 dollar deducitable for all repairs which means they cover labor and parts...only dick problem they don't pay for the diagnostic. Everything under 250 dollars i fix myself.....including mantiance unless there are days were i'm to busy to do a oil change or don't have a lift to do brakes and rotors.....i don't get on my knees for NO ONE.....NOT EVEN FOR MY CAR! Call me a spoiled bitch, but i'm just keeping this car just to save up for my F250 Harley D. The only reason why i said stealership is expensive is because SDS tells you everything...those techs barely have to do anything.....indie shops don't have sds....and alldata don't cut it

[benztec]

as an mb tech i can tell you the sds doesn't tell you everything. how do you know this? do you use one everyday? most of the time the test procedures in them related to the codes are a waste of time. its too bad your opinion of the dealerships is so bad. i find this very common on these forums. i work with a few of the best techs in the business and the one thing i've found out over the years is experience is everything. there is a reason you pay $125+ per hour versus half that at a local shop. mostly it resources-not the overhead like everyone thinks. also if you bring your car into a dealer and the result of someone working on it is something catastrophic the dealer will bend over backwards to make it right, most of the time. see what happens in an indie shop when they mess up your car...

[Cru328prod]

Eh i think i was misunderstood, I was saying don't take it to a local indie shop only because they don't have the experience, and at a stand point SDS tells you hell of alot more then a OBD2 scanner(sorry if i put the word everything.... thats why mb still can't figure out why my torque converter doesn't show locked when we test drove it). The thing is i don' t understand, if you only work on a set of cars on a daily bases, why the labor rate would be so high? By then you should know these cars inside out? A indie shop on the other hand...has to 2nd guess because they work on all types. Look honestly I just hate the fact i have to pay 120 an hr for you to use a computer and drive around with just to tell me whats wrong. I WANT THE SAME RIGHT YOU DO DAMMIT!!!! I WANT BE ABLE TO RESET THE ADAPTIVE TRANSMISSION AT WILL.......OR REPROGRAM SOMTHING....ITS NOTTTTTTTTTTT FAIRRRRRRRRRR:bored: sds is only like 2-3g...shit pays for itself in like a week!

[kraut]

Just to go on record. I think the MB techs (for the most part) are the best out there. When I lived in O.C. I took my car to Fletcher Jones. I bouoght it there. They have always been great. When I got stranded after my Supercharger failed and an Indie guy f'd the installation, the tech at Fletcher came out from the Bay and diagnosed it for free using SDS. Turns out the indie guy blew a fuse after he installed. Worst part about it was after the new one was installed, the CEL came on and I told him it was not on before. He just cleared the light then I drove off with no SC engaging. I just kept going from San Diego to O.C.

My issue is that my local dealer (I live on the Central Coast) has consistently done a poor job. I had an ML that kept burning through alternators. It was Starmarked so they covered it but the replaced 3 in the span of 2 years. They told me nothing was wrong.....really? My B.S. alarm went off and that was it. I avoid them as much as possible.

Cru 328 has been helpful. Anyone agree or disagree with his input?

[kraut]

By the way, I'm not sure if this is helpful BUT after I disconnected the battery (when doing fuel filter), I could not get the windows to operate correctly.

Problem: The go down manually (auto is not working which is to be expected) BUT they won't go UP manually. I tried the reset process (holding the manually switch down etc.) but no luck.

The only way I can get them to go up is with the Key fob.

Could that possibly be inter-related?

Just thought I would bring it up since it is unusual.

[Cru328prod]

Its some werid memory thing, you have to push the up button till the windows go up and repeat doing down, you have to do this on each set of windows. Also the sunroof go all the way back and and then close it, and up and down, and hit the up button a few times.........yeah but how long did you have the batt disconnected? Does your supercharger even turn on at all? Lol i tell everyone who owns a c230k install a boost/vac gauge somewhere.....because that shit always comes in handy. By the way...........did they connect the BOV correctly? Like i was saying before it could be a T-body issue, and it goes hand and hand with the BOV. Also a wireharness problem! Like i told you if those few quick tips didn't work for you, your only option is to take it to mb.

[benztec]

thanks kraut..yeah some dealers are much better than others. depends on management in the end i guess. some places the service managers are asleep collecting there 200k a year salaries bs'ing the owners all day long. others they have to show results or else. by the way an sds is 20k. little more than a week to pay that off. the reason benz is like that is so indie shops have a hard time with repairs. if anyone could work on them and f-them up then the brand would look bad. just to check the fluid on a new 722.9 trans requires an sds and about 30min of time. thats why i chose benz to work on and not audi. i have ross-tech software and a bentley manual and i can do %90 of what an audi shop can. my friends that work at audi now are dying with there flat rate checks every week. a lot of benz dealers are still ok.

[kraut]

UPDATE TO ISSUE

Looks like I might have identified the problem = Oil Separator. It still seems as if power is lacking but the sudden loss of all power (like the rev limiter kicked in) is gone.

Replaced the entire assembly - all hoses etc. (ordered from Dealer). Here's are the part numbers:

1110180335 Oil Seperator $30
1110183182 Hose, VLRUN $28.50
1110181682 Hose $12
1110181882 Hose VLRUN $10

Took about 15 minutes

[benztec]

try disconnecting your battery for a while to see if it resets the adaptations in the me control unit. that may clear up the rest.

[kraut]

Que sad music

Replaced all that crap I listed on previous posts. Still intermitant sudden loss of power (like the rev limiter is engaging).

Like I said, totally intermitant. Lately, it's more likely to happen when it's cold. SuperCharger is engaging. No codes.

Any way to test the throttle actuator (the thing that tells the ECU where the gas pedal is positioned)? If that's cutting out, wouldn't it create these types of results?

[Cru328prod]

only the stealership can do that lmao......

just take it to them let them hook it up to SDS....

[kraut]

Had the intermittent problem again last night. Popped the hood and hit the throttle (in park obviously). SC was not engaging.

As it only has 10k on it, I'm going to check connections etc.

Wondering if a bad throttle acutuator would effect this? In other words, if the actuator senses a position pre 2,000 RPM, it wouldn't engage correct?

I guess it could also be the ECU? Other suggestions?

AGAIN, I know from experience that the car WILL operate without the supercharger (SC) because I once had a blown fuse for the SC and the car ran (like a non SC model).

I see SDS in the future. Onward.

[mike mac]

you say the MAF is oily? try CRC mass airflow sensor cleaner. its at autozone.
if that still doesnt work. pull your codes, you may have to dish out $250 for a MAF.

BTW sounds like the the K&N filter was drenched on oil and the air flow sucked it in....there is also the possibility that its actual motor oil you motor built up and sends it into your intake.

take apart your intake and you will know what i mean.

my intake had a coat of motor oil on it before did a cold air intake and way before the MAF died.

[kraut]

thanks - just replaced the SC - must have blown a seal. Had a shop run SDS and it was throwing all kinds of crazy stuff - the ECU was trying to compensate for the oil on the MAF, O2 etc etc. Oil did not match engine oil and I had already replaced the oil seperator. Pulled the SC. When i checked the oil plug, it was empty. Ths SC only had 10k on it - was a re-mfg - was on warranty - big 'ol pain in the ass - had to completely dismantle the intake and clean it out - oil everywhere - hope there isn't more damage - will know in a day or so

[mike mac]

Originally posted by kraut
thanks - just replaced the SC - must have blown a seal. Had a shop run SDS and it was throwing all kinds of crazy stuff - the ECU was trying to compensate for the oil on the MAF, O2 etc etc. Oil did not match engine oil and I had already replaced the oil seperator. Pulled the SC. When i checked the oil plug, it was empty. Ths SC only had 10k on it - was a re-mfg - was on warranty - big 'ol pain in the ass - had to completely dismantle the intake and clean it out - oil everywhere - hope there isn't more damage - will know in a day or so

whats an "SD" lol yea sounds liek a pain. screw it, just just some spray degreaser though the plastic manifold, your done in 5 min lol

[kraut]

Running strong now with the new super charger (SC). Does not appear to be residual damage to MAF or other components