car shifting out of gear

[mykg4orce]

hello;

I have been driving in the "S" mode for a few months. Yesterday I decided to switch to "W" (its suppose to start in 2nd gear and help save fuel). So I made the switch...

Earlier today, while driving 60KM/hr I decided to accelerate to about 70-80KM/hr the rpms jumped from 2K to about 4.5K then I realized that the transmission had shifted out of gear and the high RPM was just a result of my foot pressing the gas pedal. I had to slow to about 40KM/hr for the transmission to reengage. I was able to drive along with no issues when I accelerated slowly to 80KM/hr. No other problems with engine or anything. No engine light....yet.

I attempted to duplicate this, and I was able to do it every time. As long as I am driving at around 60km/hr and I accelerate the tranny shifts of gear.

Reading some of the posts indicate a faulty MAF sensor. But I didn't read anyone having the same symptoms as the ones I experienced. I don't have a problem, cold starting nor does the car stall.

I switched back to "S" mode and I am still able to duplicate the symptom except with "S" mode the tires sequel and trigger the ESP light upon acceleration.

[C Concept]

No, Actually the W stands for winter. So you dont spin the wheels so easily in the snow. Thats why you start off in second also the W mode lowers the shift points.

[mykg4orce]

thank you, i understood that already.

[SLAMMED_C]

your car is a 1998, 1999, 2000 MY range?
Id check the control unit for transmission fluid migration, also check the trans electrical plug for a leak.

it also can be a faulty conductor plate or the valve body itself.
Im surprised you dont have any codes yet!

[JRE320]

I just got my car a week ago with a rebuilt transmission. It's suppose to be like feeling a brand new transmission right? But why am I feeling a log on my transmission? Is this normal? :confused: :bored:

[Cru328prod]

JRE....did you ask if they reset the adpatation?

mykg4orce do you have a c230k?

Did you happen to press the kick down switch?

And i don't believe starting in 2nd will save fuel, its more strain to push up the that gear power band

[C230KSPORT00]

Yeah I was curious about this Cru328prod. Just the other day I was wondering if I would to switch it to S mode would it be more fuel efficient? It would start off in 1st so it would be easier for the car to accelerate and keep the momentum. What do you think?

[Cru328prod]

Yes I wanted to get serval people drive in winter mode and then in s mode to confirm.

Hmmm after reading this again, same werid shit happened toDay me going uphill really fast, it was very odd. I was in s mode tho. I just had the transmission replaced not to long ago, I'll have to go get the fuilds checked.

I wouldn't think it would be bad maf, i would just get the fuilds checked.

[C230KSPORT00]

Yeah I'm gonna try this for a week or so.

[JRE320]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Cru328prod
[B]JRE....did you ask if they reset the adpatation?

Sorry not trying to hijack your tread.

I'm pretty sure they did all that and check everything before letting it go. Coz right I'm not comfortable with the performance.
It seem like it will not last a year. :confused: :(

[Cru328prod]

You never know, there was a manual way to do it by like shift gears 1 threw D without passing a rpm 5 times, but I don't know how true that is. Simple battery disconnect might do the trick. Hit the panic button and turn your lights on Before you disconnect

[mykg4orce]

yes i do have c230k 2000

im going to find my code reader and post any codes

Cru328prod: i dont think i pushed the kick down ..

[Cru328prod]

I don't think you'll pull any codes....

your safest easiest bet is to check the fluids, and the linkage.

230k trannys are really f-ing weird...
.................................................. ...........................

i would also try slammed_c suggestions

.................................................. ...........................

if all eles fails, talk to mb and just give them the 100 dollars to see what it is if SDS pulls it up. Well you have to take it to MB anyway since DIPSHHITSSSSSSS DIDN'T PUT A DIPPPPPSTICKKKK FOR THE TRANNY:mad:

[mykg4orce]

okay i pulled code P0700

then I checked my air filter...and yes I am to blame i haven't replaced it in over a year. It was very tough seemed clogged up. There was also oil like substance at the bottom end of the filter.

I reset the code, went for a drive and I could not accelerate very well. Pushing the pedal was not accelerating the car. On the highway i was driving at 100-110 and did not notice anything odd.

[Cru328prod]

Another member gets to post in the transmission hall of fame lmfao!

[mykg4orce]

what now ???

[mykg4orce]

i have this pain in my stomach now... similar to when my kompressor broke. This is not a good feeling at all.

[xvvvz]

If you have oil on the air filter, you have oil on the MAF. It may just need to be cleaned or it may need to be replaced (after you clean the oil out of the entire induction system!). A bad MAF will make the transmission operate very poorly with odd shifting.

With that said, from your description it sounds like you may have a second problem that is transmission-only related.

With that code, I would start by checking for a leaking transmission electrical connector, checking the harness for fluid wicking and also pull the tranny ECU to look for fluid wicking into it. If it is soaked, you may be able to salvage it by cleaning it. Do it now for any hope of saving it.

After that you need to start checking the other common internal tranny issues. Start searching the archives here to learn more.

My $,02.

[mykg4orce]

thanks, a few questions:

How should I clean the MAF and with what?

"leaking transmission electrical connector" where is this located?

"tranny ECU to look for fluid wicking into it" where is this located?

[Cru328prod]

It's crc maf cleaner sold at your local autoparts store, all you have to do is spray it down or even spray all of it in a zip lock bag and shake and bake withOut the bake of course.

Get the man for you car, or get it from alldatadiy

if you are not mech inclined don't listen to what were telling you, because you might just fuk it up and end up paying for it

[SLAMMED_C]

Originally posted by mykg4orce
thanks, a few questions:

How should I clean the MAF and with what?

"leaking transmission electrical connector" where is this located?

"tranny ECU to look for fluid wicking into it" where is this located?
you can use MAF cleaner as someone suggested, of I have found lighter fluid works well at cleaning off oil residue from MAS sensors.

as for the location of the Trans electrical plug.. its on the side of the transmission. right front corner to be exact. there is a small metal cover with a torx bolt holding it in place. take out the bolt and press the white locking tab upwards to unlock the trans connection.

the transmission control unit is located behind the passenger foot area carpet. pull back the carpet (it should pivot downwards from the top at the underpanel towards the floor) and then there is a metal plate held in place by 3 plastic 10mm nuts. one on the right side and 2 on the floor.
fold that metal panel towards the read of the car and to the floor. the transmission module is located on the back side of that panel.

[mykg4orce]

appreciate this a lot. will try and report.

[Section 8]

driving in w mode actually lowers fuel efficiency it puts the engine under more strain thus using more fuel...

[mykg4orce]

I took the car to the dealer to check the fluid level. They checked it after they let it sit for 20mins. They said it was 1/2 a liter low but okay otherwise. The guy said he would check the quality of the oil and check for any visible leaks. He did not notice any thing out of the ordinary.

The drive felt a little better, but when I started the car and drove off from the dealer I noticed that I could not use trip tronic and the car wouldn't go past 3rd. I made a stop and then drove to work, now the car was not shifting out of gear, except just holding onto 3rd for little longer and finally giving into 4th.

I am quite conflicted now as to the real reason of this shifting problem. I have been parking the car in the same spot for 5 months now...there is not a single drop of oil, of any kind. Looking at the trany through the engine bay, it looks completely dry.

I should also add that the car doesn't accelerate like it used to.

A couple of years ago, the acceleration really died and it felt like the car was running on 2 or 3 cylinders. The cause of this was a fault ignition coil wire.

I have a few todos:
1) inspect the Trans ECU
2) inspect spark plugs, ignition wires (try swapping them out)
3) Check vacuum lines from trans (might as well check them all)
4) Clean the MAF with maf cleaner
5) Clean the throttle body with throttle body cleaner (since traces of oil were found on the air filter)
6) Service transmission from dealer ($375 CDN)?

A local, reputable Benz shop quoted $2200 for "rejuvenation" of trans.

Considering my car now has 249,000kms on it, the A/C stopped working two years ago because of a leak in the condenser, I am debating just getting rid of this beast.

[Cru328prod]

Umm you better make sure it's not your coils instead the wire, 2200 is alot for a tranny flush and fill...You should have had them smoke test alll the vac lines.... I was surprised as shit how many leaks I had and nothing poped up. Run some bg products threw that thing

[mykg4orce]

would the smoke test be a dealer specialty or any benz shop could do it?

[Cru328prod]

Anyone who can smoke test it. I really recommend you run whatever bg products they have...44k is some great shit...

[mykg4orce]

My first todo was to check the TCU. I took off the carpet and the back plate (to which the TCU is attached). The entire area was shining no trace of oil.

So I continued to remove the plate, when I touched the harness my fingers slipped. It was covered evenly with reddish oil!!! My finger tips were covered with it.

Where is this oil coming from?

I traced the harness back to the side compartment where all the harnesses are kept; I saw no trace of oil. The oil covered about 12 inches of the wire harness and then stops. There the foam was also covered with a little bit of oil.

What do I use to clean this?

[xvvvz]

The fluid wicks internally within the harness and probably into your computer, so that is why you don't see it from the outside.

I have put up some posts about cleaning and changing the connector, so you might search.

I would use cans of CRC electrical contact cleaner (or any decent brand but I was able to pick it up at the auto parts store) to flush out the harness, opening up or pulling back the sheathing if possible. I would also disconnect and open up the TCU, then carefully/gently spray it down if you see fluid has entered into it.

[mykg4orce]

I am back...finally... Unfortunately the results of the initial cleaning did not turn out well. I took the cover off the TCU and checked the contacts with a que tip. They were dry. I sprayed some cleaner anyways on them.

I repeatedly sprayed the harnesses letting it dry in between.
Spent 6 hours doing this...

Took it for a drive afterwards and thought it was better, but upon higher acceleration 3rd to 4th started acting up again. Came back and re-sprayed the harness, I will put it back together in the morning.

What I noticed was that the thick padding (carpet) which is a huge piece was literally soaking with oil (reddish). I took some paper towel to dap it and it turned completely red. This piece is the rectangular one stick out probably 2 inches. And it would be touching the other foam underneath the kick panel (where the TCU was mounted).

It’s hard for me to believe that such a large quantity of oil managed to wick up from where….? I still don’t understand…

I took off most of the carpet (passenger’s side) and saw NO trace of oil. It was completely try. I opened all the wire harness compartments and could not trace back any oil.

[Cru328prod]

Hey try disconnecting your battery for like several hours

[mykg4orce]

will found out in the morning. The battery is disconnected. :(

[xvvvz]

A few hours is BS. A few minutes, and maybe just a few seconds, is going to do just as much.

We really don't have that good idea of what you have done, so I will mention the following just in case:

So did you disconnect the harness at both ends and clean/flush from both ends? If you didn't, I doubt you did much good and I am worried that you shot cleaner down to the connector in the direction of the transmission connector which we already know is not fully sealed to the transmission.

Did you open up the TCU enough to expose the circuit boards? The problem comes when there is enough of an oil coating across the board(s) that it diverts the signals to the wrong place and thus the odd shifting problems. If you just cleaned off the connector terminals, that may not have been enough.

[mykg4orce]

So did you disconnect the harness at both ends and clean/flush from both ends?


So one end of the harness is connected to the TCU. When I trace those wires back to the side compartment they split off into several other harnesses. How do I trace the other end of the connector? Where is it?




I am worried that you shot cleaner down to the connector in the direction of the transmission connector which we already know is not fully sealed to the transmission.


Dont understand how the cleaner was shot in the direction of the transmission. I merely sprayed the harness 12 inches back from the TCU. This was as far as I could trace the oil residue and was also as far as I could trace the harness as a whole. Before it split up.



Did you open up the TCU enough to expose the circuit boards?


As I mentioned, I did open the TCU and checked it throughly. There was no trace of oil anywhere except the pin conenctors that are exposed outside the plastic housing. I cleaned the connectors from the inside of the plastic housing as well.

[mykg4orce]

Originally posted by Cru328prod
Hey try disconnecting your battery for like several hours


btw no change this morning, after leaving the harness to dry and battery disconnected for about 12 hours.

[xvvvz]

I am not sure we are on the same page with things, and since it makes no sense for me to retype the same stuff over, here are a bunch of links with a better discussion of the problem I was describing.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=234219

http://mbclub.co.uk/forums/engine/12199-big-problem.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170-slk-class/1309980-repairing-transmission-fluid-leak.html#post2287316

http://mbca.cartama.net/showthread.php?t=11488

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w202-c-class/1435542-transmission-problems.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w202-c-class/1434200-c230-transmission-control-module-question.html

http://web.mac.com/motorwerks/German_Love/MB_Common_Car_Problems/Entries/2007/2/23_Transmission_Connector_Leaking.html#1

[mykg4orce]

thank you for gathering those links...

I do recall reading a few of those over the weekend. The first link with picture shows the TCu located under the hood. Mine is located under the passenger's side foot well.

[xvvvz]

>> The first link with picture shows the TCu located under the hood.<<

Correct. It is an E Class if I remember right.

>> Mine is located under the passenger's side foot well. <<

Yep, that is it.

[mykg4orce]

Update:

today I set out to clean the MAF. I had to buy the Security Torx set for this. Was surprised to see oil on the sensor....well maybe not.

Below some pictures...

I also cleaned the air intake housing.

The difference was noticeable. Accelerate was much smoother. Unfortunately this cleaning did not solve the trans problem.

After all of this, I do want to know how to properly adjust the throttle cable linkage. I did adjust it, when it was very loose 3rd to 4th felt a little smoother. When I tightened it shifting 3rd to 4th was harder.


http://www.myksp.com/temp/benz_imgs/maf1.JPG

http://www.myksp.com/temp/benz_imgs/maf2.JPG

http://www.myksp.com/temp/benz_imgs/maf3.JPG

http://www.myksp.com/temp/benz_imgs/maf4.JPG

[Cru328prod]

LMFAOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

YOU NEED TO PULL YOUR INTERCOOLER OFF...AND WASH ALL THE SHIT OFF!!! i had to redo the whole intake side...i bought a gallon size of purple stuff and had at it....its that 1 little stupied hose that goes into the air box that causes that!

buy a new MAF!

[mykg4orce]

Okay...okay

This explains why there was oil on the air filter. Why did the oil dump out here?

Can you describe in a little bit more detail what you did?


Also you think this causes the shifting problem?

[Cru328prod]

who knows really...but it looks like you need a new MAF. Everyone here will tell you the stupied stories about my 23k...and how much abuse it took....one time i sprayed nos, froze up my MAF...car wouldn't start..keep stalling, shift weird, etc

DO NOTTTTTTTTTTTT BUY EBAY CHEAPOS
they will throw a code!
OEM....... buymbparts.com talk to rusty he'll hook you up.

well if you have a wet vac, disconnet both ends of the intercooler...and pour the purple stuff with some water...and then suck out the water. take off all the piping and clean them...purple stuff is pretty good....dawn will work also..... its really not hard to do...

you don't even need that once piece in your air box...mines is off, well its because of my CAI

[xvvvz]

You need to check the system for recirculating the crankcase fumes/vapor. Maybe one of the check valves or the oil separator is malfunctioning. It could be another cause but I would start there first.

[mykg4orce]

thanks guys.


I feel like im getting closer...

[Cru328prod]

yeah i'd order new a "pcv" and hoses (they dry rot) also along with a new MAF...you have to take off the fuel rails, intake manifold, fuel injectors, etc etc to get to it... honestly it'll take half a days worth of work...but theres alot to gain from it. Buy alot of carb cleaner spray...you're gonna need it lol.

[mykg4orce]

UPDATE:

I had the trans oil, filter and gasket replaced yesterday. The shop also flashed the trans computer. The car drove better instantly. Shifting form 3rd to 4th was like before. I think the ECU needs to re-adapt to driving behavior again before it becomes optimal again.