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View Full Version : CAI finally finished



Logic
08-13-2009, 11:01 AM
the last time i posted pictures of this it was about three years ago and it took this long for me to get it done. some of the reasons were the original person who did this had problems with his welder, then it escaladed to other things to where i just needed to find another person. i finally found this place called Hanks Hotrods that made or fabricated bend tubing . they did a decent job and i even had the ends dimpled so the couplers would slip off. ( only could do the top since the bottom part wouldnt fit in the machine due to the bend in pipe. i suggested if he was to make a complete intake left and right. he estimated for just the stainless 3 inch all welding and labor to be about 325.00 . all you would need is a aem bypass valve , a 90 degree elbow from 2.5 to 3 inch , 2 2.5 to 3 couplers, and a air filter of your choice plus all the T-bolts which are about 5 since the aem and filter usually come with them . but if you want matching ones there are 8 total. i also found out the 2.5 t bolts were too small and ended up using 3 inch on the left side near the throttle body. i bought my couplers from a place called siliconeintakes.com i pretty sure you can buy all the couplers here and t-bolt to finish it. the elbow was bought here in town but they did list the elbow in 3 colors. so since the place that made mine said he took off 25% to come up with this price hoping to make a few and maybe he said he might build some to sell.
here are the pictures, some of them were before i sanded a little since the mandrel bender puts small teeth into it . just got some 200 grit and worked my self to 600 the used steel wool to finish
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z125/Deslogic/carsintakeandfamilypic314-1.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z125/Deslogic/carsintakeandfamilypic313-1.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z125/Deslogic/carsintakeandfamilypic312-1.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z125/Deslogic/carsintakeandfamilypic052-1.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z125/Deslogic/carsintakeandfamilypic022-1.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z125/Deslogic/carsintakeandfamilypic051-1.jpg

anf6789
08-13-2009, 10:19 PM
wow! thats really nice looking. i'm sure it sounds even better than before!

Logic
08-14-2009, 07:39 PM
you know after driving the car it seems to run better.... like most people say when they do something but i really noticed something when i first start it. its like saying if someone drives your car they wouldn't know but when you drive it you do notice something. i know the car will adapt to things so ill drive it a bit and see what happens . i m going to replace 2 of the t bolt clamps to a 2.75 as the 2.5 were a little small and didn't go on and used 3 inch and even tho the 3 inch gets snug i feel the 2.75 will get a little tighter since the bolt is tightened all the way on the 3 inch if that makes sence LOL

xvvvz
08-14-2009, 09:37 PM
>> he estimated for just the stainless 3 inch all welding and labor to be about 325.00 . all you would need is a aem bypass valve , a 90 degree elbow from 2.5 to 3 inch , 2 2.5 to 3 couplers, and a air filter of your choice plus all the T-bolts which are about 5 since the aem and filter usually come with them .<<

So how much total for all of this? It sounds like it is going to add up to a lot.

Logic
08-15-2009, 01:32 AM
Originally posted by xvvvz
>> he estimated for just the stainless 3 inch all welding and labor to be about 325.00 . all you would need is a aem bypass valve , a 90 degree elbow from 2.5 to 3 inch , 2 2.5 to 3 couplers, and a air filter of your choice plus all the T-bolts which are about 5 since the aem and filter usually come with them .<<

So how much total for all of this? It sounds like it is going to add up to a lot.
well i m in it over 500, about 540 total when i did this....
ok here is the break down if you bought these parts
i bought my couplers for the left side on siliconeintakes.com
the other one was bought in town but the other place offers them too
silicone reducers 3 to 2.5 9.99 each need 2
silicon reducer elbow 19.99 3 inch to 2.5 inch
t-bolt clamps 2.60 each you'll need 5 since the aem comes with clamps and sometimes your filter but a total of 8 if you want them to match
aem by pass runs about 49.00
air filter can run between 25 to 40 dollars
small crank case filter 12.00
for a total roughtly about 144.00 not including tax
so about 482.00
i m in it about 540 for a total 70.00 less then i paid
the way i see it a intake for cars run about 350 to 600 dollars in some cases .
the cool thing about this is both sides will be bent as for my original right side was welded to create the curve so it wont have any welds in the 3 inch in the right and 1 on the left. the only weld will be attaching the bypass flange
i also used a small piece of coupler where the pipe goes threw the bumper so it wouldnt rattle on the metal going threw

nikrox
08-15-2009, 06:14 AM
looks AWESOME....good work.you could prob sell these






_n.

Logic
08-15-2009, 10:08 AM
well if i had the resources i would have some done since no one makes these. the guy who is going to make these is offering a additional off if any one has one done which brings the price around 325ish. . i would have to take my car down for him to duplicate these so i m taking time out to help any one who wants these.

jabu
08-15-2009, 10:19 AM
just curious as to why you didn't have the maf relocate done? the engine bay looks very aggressive now considering how much power the komp puts out haha.

Logic
08-15-2009, 10:42 AM
in all honesty i didnt like the way it looked since the maf is put on top. i guess it was a look thing for me. i may have gained a little more by doing that but i like this a whole lot better. by increasing the over all pipe dia. maybe i help reduce the turbulance maybe...any one have a idea if that helped?

jnolte
08-15-2009, 09:13 PM
relocationg the MAF is key while doing this mod.

Logic
08-15-2009, 11:13 PM
Originally posted by jnolte
relocationg the MAF is key while doing this mod.
what makes this key??????
what am i losing here since i dont like the way this looks?
if i relocate this i m talking about a 2.5 maf so this would take a coupler, then the maf then another coupler ...by now its going to look crowded. i know are cars anit really fast and i dont think this would make a great deal. what would i be gaining here ?

SLAMMED_C
08-16-2009, 01:40 PM
I have done the relocation for my MAS.. but I am running the KLEEMANN pulley kit. so it is for sure REQUIRED! the huge thing was there is a large amount of turbulence (in i believe 2nd gear), the turbulence happens inside the MAS and causes almost like a dead spot of air so the car briefly stumbles.. so by you increasing the pipe size after the MAS, you still have the chances of the turbulence happen since its inside the MAS. basically the car bogs down in second gear due to the turbulence inside the MAS.

Great job with the pipes though man.. they look killer. love the SS look. nice welding as well.

Logic
08-16-2009, 06:43 PM
ok ran into a issue i think i may have fixed.... when driving home tonight i noticed the gas light ( the light that goes on when your almost empty) was flashing and i recall reading some where when this happens the gas cap is loose. well when i pulled into the drive way the check engine light went on. it also idicates a fuel issue. i was thinking the car was running just fine until the intake was done and the gas cap was tight. so i rechecked it and noticed 2 of the 4 clamps were tight all the way where the t-bolt pieces touch but looking closer even tho they are all the way tight i felt they were a little lose. when i originally took the parts to this shop 2 of the four clamps were 2 small so the ones i bought from the place seem to be good but the 3 inch i bought weren't tight enough
. so what i did i got the old ones off the other intake and put then on and infact they did tighten a little better plus they fit in the little slots on the maf and throttle body. they dont look bad either . LOL long story but wanted to throw everything out. could a leak or small leak in the couplers cause the light to blink like that and throw a check engine light on or the leak cause the light to blink ????

xvvvz
08-16-2009, 07:03 PM
FWIW, when I had my intake come loose at the MAF and thus created a huge leak, it gave me the "P0243 Recirculated air flap actuator for supercharger" error.

Even if your gas cap is tight, if it is defective it can still cause problems. What are the exact error codes?

Logic
08-16-2009, 07:10 PM
i dont have a reader so i m not sure... but a guy at work has one not sure if he has one for a euro car but right now i have no clue where did you get your reader and how much was it ????
well if there was a leak it may have been min. but i dont think a supercharger error would casue a light on the gas gauge to blink would it?

OCKlasse
08-16-2009, 07:15 PM
Flashing fuel light should be P0455. If so, somewhere you have an evap leak. Could be from the gas cap, or elsewhere. It will start flashing after you have been driving a while and come to a stop.

Logic
08-16-2009, 07:18 PM
Originally posted by OCKlasse
Flashing fuel light should be P0455. If so, somewhere you have an evap leak. Could be from the gas cap, or elsewhere. It will start flashing after you have been driving a while and come to a stop.

yup thats sounds about right ... i did have a gas filter replaced my last oil change about 2 k miles ago could there be a issue with that? would i smell gas with aproblem like this?
so the intake would have no issue of the blinking light?

xvvvz
08-16-2009, 07:38 PM
Sorry if I wasn't clear. The point of my post was that I don't think the intake is the cause. I think you would have gotten the error I received first. I think Brandon is on track with his thoughts.

You can go to most any auto chain store and ask to borrow their reader for free. Make sure to print out the MB code interpretation list because it is not always the same as other makes'.

http://202tech.mkosonen.com/howto/enginecodes2.html

Logic
08-16-2009, 08:08 PM
hey no problem...since i reset the check engine light ill have to wait for it again to see what the issue was... does the car hold that code even tho i reset the check engine light? my friend at work has a snap on reader so if the code is in memory will it pick it up after i reset it?

SLAMMED_C
08-17-2009, 02:05 PM
the flashing gas reserve light is from a purge leak in the evap system, part of your vehicles emissions system.
the common code of po455 as was mentioned by OCKlasse is either going to be a defective MOT valve, gas cap, charcoal cannister shut off valve, purge line, or charcoal cannister itself. the most common failed item is the shut off valve.. a large white valve located near the charcoal cannister.
it has nothing to do with the intake stuff that you've done.

Logic
08-17-2009, 08:06 PM
Originally posted by SLAMMED_C
the flashing gas reserve light is from a purge leak in the evap system, part of your vehicles emissions system.
the common code of po455 as was mentioned by OCKlasse is either going to be a defective MOT valve, gas cap, charcoal cannister shut off valve, purge line, or charcoal cannister itself. the most common failed item is the shut off valve.. a large white valve located near the charcoal cannister.
it has nothing to do with the intake stuff that you've done.
after replacing the t-bolt clamps to the mercedes ones on the throttle body since they were the right size the did tighten better since they are slimmer and fit in the grooves i had no issue today when i drove the car to and from work , it doesnt mean what i did fixed it but i m seeing if this may be a issue it the clamps were leaking, i dont know but all is ok as of today.....

C230KSPORT00
08-18-2009, 09:10 AM
Still jelous of your intake..

OCKlasse
08-18-2009, 03:39 PM
If you have replaced your gas cap, and you checked the purge valve (it's ticking), then physically remove and inspect the charcoal canister. I found mine to have a broken nipple, which I was luckily able to torch back on. No light since!

Logic
08-18-2009, 05:16 PM
another day gone and no light so again not sure if the loose clamps had any relation to this ...but crossing my fingers if it was a fluke ....
if i had more time and some extra money i would have like 10 made and buy the additonal parts to complete it and add my time and effort costs plus shipping cause these cars are way affordable most people are more likely to buy these. but the price could run about 325. plus the parts that run about 150 plus shipping and my time could run maybe close to 575.00 to 600. not sure if people would pay that much for a little hp and great sound.....
it might be easier on what i did and find some one local and take pictures and some one might make it cheaper

Logic
08-20-2009, 03:59 PM
here is the video....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6B_GqYDcNUI