View Full Version : Im going to TURBO my W202!!
SLAMMED_C
02-21-2010, 01:54 PM
So after a lot of debate on what to do to my car (An engine swap with a V8 or do a Turbo set up), I decided on the Turbo.. as it will be much easier to do. The V8 swap would involve new harness's, a new EIS, new keys, New control units, New Trans.. the list goes on and on.. just waaaay more then I want to tackle in my C230 Kompressor. If my car was already a V8 I'd just drop in a 55 motor and call it a day.
There is no way to really boost my supercharger more with the set up I'm running, so I'd have to go with a custom supercharger.. and I have thought about this as well.. but to be honest.. the Turbo just seems so much easier to tune later on.. easier to crank up the boost.
So the Thread has started!
Chime in 23K.. I know you have some questions and comments for me!
Im about to order my Turbo, hopefully this week,
I'm going with a Garrett GT3582R.. yes it's large!.. but it will give me the power I'm after later on when I get more custom bits done. My goal is 450-550HP when all is said and done. so it will hopefully be a monster!
**All my stock parts will be up for sale (Supercharger and all affiliated parts, also my full stock exhaust will be for sale, and finally my Kleemann K23 kit, which is good for 1999 and 2000 C230Kompressors, and it should be compatible with 1999 SLK230Komprssors as well, as I have the 2 different alternator pulleys for either car.**
Hit me up if you are interested in any parts.
JRE320
02-21-2010, 03:39 PM
Good luck with the set up ;)
...Its been going on for some time behind the scenes...but now you've posted it there's definitely no going back^^
Im still concerned about the GT3582,when i did the maths years back that size dipped heavily into the surge zone,but weather or not you actually get it will be based on the tune,back pressure,header ID,turbine wheel and housing...not to mention the characteristics of the auto tranny....
It may pay to look into an anti-surge housing(decreases responce slightly),however it will be a gamble as if you didnt actually have surge than it does you no good.
Iv been round in circles a lot with mine,it would have been much cheaper to have got it right the first time lol,im in the middle of redoing the cooling hoses and iv just bought a new GT2860 core because i couldnt get my compressor wheel replaced without huge expense,almost cost as much as a new turbo!.
Are there plans for the header?(top or bottom mount and what material),also what size turbine housing are you planning to run with the 3582?
Cheers bro,
Paul
SLAMMED_C
02-22-2010, 05:21 PM
Originally posted by 23K
...Its been going on for some time behind the scenes...but now you've posted it there's definitely no going back^^
Im still concerned about the GT3582,when i did the maths years back that size dipped heavily into the surge zone,but weather or not you actually get it will be based on the tune,back pressure,header ID,turbine wheel and housing...not to mention the characteristics of the auto tranny....
It may pay to look into an anti-surge housing(decreases responce slightly),however it will be a gamble as if you didnt actually have surge than it does you no good.
Iv been round in circles a lot with mine,it would have been much cheaper to have got it right the first time lol,im in the middle of redoing the cooling hoses and iv just bought a new GT2860 core because i couldnt get my compressor wheel replaced without huge expense,almost cost as much as a new turbo!.
Are there plans for the header?(top or bottom mount and what material),also what size turbine housing are you planning to run with the 3582?
Cheers bro,
Paul
LOL.. oh I know it has been going on behind the scenes for SOME time indeed!! trust me.. Im not going to turn back.. I'm in 1000% on this one!
I know.. I have my doubts still on if the turbo is way to big or not.. but I honestly don't think it is too big. I've been talking to many different tuners and they have all said that it is a good turbo to use for my application.. yes a little on the large side but I will make the power I'm after.
Im still not certain as to if I am running Twin scroll or a single scroll set up. I was almost 100% sold on the twin scroll, but now I don't know if its worth the extra time, money and effort.. I don't know if I will see results with a twin scroll. so thats still up in the air and stopping me from ordering a turbo as of this moment. as soon as I decide that, the turbo will be ordered.
if its a single scroll turbo, Im looking at a GT3582R, 82mm compressor wheel, 56 tirm, .70A/R with a 4" inlet and 2.5" outlet, on the turbine side I'll be looking at a 68mm wheel, 84 trim and a .82A/R with a 3" v-band exit. and I had thought about the machine ported anti-surge housing.
if its a twin scroll set up Id be looking at basically the same numbers but a T4 divided housing.
How come you don't use a GT3076 instead? I've seen the cost of those replacement wheels!.. it really is almost the same cost as a completely new turbo! I know you have A LOT of experience with this which is why I really respect your advice and thoughts on the matter.
how come you're redoing the cooling lines?
as for the header.. Im looking to top mount, most likely out of stainless steel.. I think I will be getting a custom exhaust flange machined out of 1/2" thick SS. as for pipe diameter.. Im not sure yet.
the Turbine housing is a T3/T4.
as for waste gates (not that I need one yet!), but is there any benefit to running a redonculously large one?! say 60mm? if not then I'll run a single 44-46mm waste gate on the single scroll set up, and two 44-46mm waste gates on the twin scroll.
can you recommend a good electronic boost controller? I have seen a few that are pretty sweet.. Apexi AVC-R or the HKS EVC New turbo boost controller (45003-AK005)
BOV wise I'm going with a turbo XS type H RFL.. seems to be the loudest on the market!... so I want it!
Thanks dude,im fully no expert on this stuff and can only really point out where i went wrong with my setup,but ill put my thoughts out on yours as it may spark a few ideas/questions along the way;) lol.
The main problem i see with using a large turbo on the M111 is its relatively low rev range(while this can be raised im not sure just how far on stock head parts)
having a smaller window to produce power means you need lots of boost,and you need it fast,which is something large turbos dont appare to do at any great rate!,but it will be interesting to see how the GT35 turns out,though iv never seen the results the twin scroll sounds like the way to go however there seems to be only one turbine housing available(.78)...so your stuck if you want to fine tune with different housings later!...also i would imagine the twin scroll will require tricky work with the wastegate piping.
Yeh i thought long about going with a slightly larger turbo,GT2871/76 was an easy pick but most likely to give surge without the larger exhaust wheel of the 30 series...but there was to many possible problems,the GT30 wouldnt fit for about 5 reasons + i didnt want any less responce and i didnt want to come across any more surge...it just all costs way to much to fix.
Im redoing the cooling lines after i discovered the outgoing pipe from the turbo water jacket was cooked,its rated for 160 degreesC but it would get much hotter than that once the engine stops,so now the lines will be mostly alloy and i will flare the ends to suit the -6 fittings,im just sourcing a decent 1/2" pipe bender at the moment!.
Are you going with stainless because of corrosion?,if its not corrosion than i strongly suggest you go with cast steam pipe/mild steel...alternatively if you must go stainless use the thickest wall possible dont even consider 1.6mm it will crack.
I know top mount looks good....and it may be the only way you can do it based on the turbo dimensions,however...and its big however....mounting up top means you need to negotiate alot of problems,heat gets trapped up there close to the bonnet especially with the fire wall seal just behind,the wastegate can be tricky to plumb,the oil drain needs to dodge the header,the water lines are just a pita and the downpipe is extra long and subject to alot of stress if not adequately supported.
However you make the header flange make sure you have it machined or sanded flat after the header has been welded,as during welding it will warp somewhat regardless of all best attempts to stop it...later you will find this helps stop loose header bolts and makes for much better sealing.
Wastegate size is an interesting topic,you would best do some research on that as its not entirely based on your HP goal but more so what you will be expecting to see go through it with the turbo and pressure you are attempting to run. also the angle at which the waste exists the manifold plays a large role in weather or not it can regulate,i removed a small ridge inside mine helped significantly when i was fault finding my uncontrolled boost problems...however if i could go back i think the 44mm would be a better choice over the 38 with slightly larger plumbing.
Im not sure about boost controllers but Apexi and HKS seem to have it sorted!
Paul
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cvFl7IQKe4
:D
SLAMMED_C
02-23-2010, 06:40 PM
Originally posted by 23K
Thanks dude,im fully no expert on this stuff and can only really point out where i went wrong with my setup,but ill put my thoughts out on yours as it may spark a few ideas/questions along the way;) lol.
The main problem i see with using a large turbo on the M111 is its relatively low rev range(while this can be raised im not sure just how far on stock head parts)
having a smaller window to produce power means you need lots of boost,and you need it fast,which is something large turbos dont appare to do at any great rate!,but it will be interesting to see how the GT35 turns out,though iv never seen the results the twin scroll sounds like the way to go however there seems to be only one turbine housing available(.78)...so your stuck if you want to fine tune with different housings later!...also i would imagine the twin scroll will require tricky work with the wastegate piping.
Yeh i thought long about going with a slightly larger turbo,GT2871/76 was an easy pick but most likely to give surge without the larger exhaust wheel of the 30 series...but there was to many possible problems,the GT30 wouldnt fit for about 5 reasons + i didnt want any less responce and i didnt want to come across any more surge...it just all costs way to much to fix.
Im redoing the cooling lines after i discovered the outgoing pipe from the turbo water jacket was cooked,its rated for 160 degreesC but it would get much hotter than that once the engine stops,so now the lines will be mostly alloy and i will flare the ends to suit the -6 fittings,im just sourcing a decent 1/2" pipe bender at the moment!.
Are you going with stainless because of corrosion?,if its not corrosion than i strongly suggest you go with cast steam pipe/mild steel...alternatively if you must go stainless use the thickest wall possible dont even consider 1.6mm it will crack.
I know top mount looks good....and it may be the only way you can do it based on the turbo dimensions,however...and its big however....mounting up top means you need to negotiate alot of problems,heat gets trapped up there close to the bonnet especially with the fire wall seal just behind,the wastegate can be tricky to plumb,the oil drain needs to dodge the header,the water lines are just a pita and the downpipe is extra long and subject to alot of stress if not adequately supported.
However you make the header flange make sure you have it machined or sanded flat after the header has been welded,as during welding it will warp somewhat regardless of all best attempts to stop it...later you will find this helps stop loose header bolts and makes for much better sealing.
Wastegate size is an interesting topic,you would best do some research on that as its not entirely based on your HP goal but more so what you will be expecting to see go through it with the turbo and pressure you are attempting to run. also the angle at which the waste exists the manifold plays a large role in weather or not it can regulate,i removed a small ridge inside mine helped significantly when i was fault finding my uncontrolled boost problems...however if i could go back i think the 44mm would be a better choice over the 38 with slightly larger plumbing.
Im not sure about boost controllers but Apexi and HKS seem to have it sorted!
Paul
Well you might not consider yourself an "expert", but in all honesty.. you're one of the few people that has turbo'd the M111 Kompressor engine.. and had to figure everything out.. so you are an expert!
I totally agree with you on that, the huge issue with a large turbo is producing large amounts of boost fast! I think the best way to overcome this problem is a twin scroll set up.. I'm doing some more research on this right now.. I think I'm going to have to talk to someone about this, and I have found someone who seems VERY knowledgeable with this.. he is from a company called Agency Power, they produce a twin scroll turbo kit for Mitsu EVO X cars.. and they are monsters! so Im going to have to call him and get some info on this whole thing. and as for turbine housings.. If I do twin scroll my car.. there are way more options then are listed in the Garrett catalog for turbo's. So I will need to talk to a turbo distributer about it as well and find one that will work with what I want.
well you know better then I ever would! and you are making some crazy awesome power with that 2871 anyways.. so stick with what works and produces the hp numbers.
oh my.. that can't be good!.. so were the lines cooked because of excessive temps then.. I guess when the coolant stops circulating its going to sit and be super hot.. not the best for the lines or turbo.
so youre going to use 1/2 aluminum? a pipe bender?! use them muscles!
Well partially because of corrosion (although I will only be driving my W202 in the summer) but I would also like it to look pretty too! not the best reason! I love the way a nice stainless steel turbo header looks. you would recommend a cast pipe or steel.. yours is cast pipe right?
Thats something I will have to think about as well.
I had thoughts on some custom hood vents to hopefully alleviate some heat under the hood.. but will that be enough, I don't know.
I think with the GT3582R top mount may be the only way.. I think if the turbo was smaller it would make more sense to run bottom mount.
I'll hopefully have some solutions to the problems you are bringing up from experience. at this point in the game.. Im willing to work through these challenges and figure things out if it mean I'll be able to run a w202 with 500hp!
I will have to agree that is a good idea to have the header flange machined to its perfectly true and sits on the head flush.
Hmm.. Ill have to do some research on the waste gates as well.. really.. it even matters which way the waste gate exits the manifold?! jeeze.. so picky!
I have alot more research to do before this turbo is ordered. a lot more then I was anticipating!
On a side note I ordered the N/A alternator bracket for my engine the other day.. $75 for it! but its special order germany. so gotta wait.
I'll still proceed with converting my car to N/A and remove all the supercharger parts.. I can still drive my car with no supercharger.. will just be uber slow!
I have to agree.. Apexi and HKS seem to have it figured out. either gauge I looked at was very nice. so I'll have to figure it out at some point.
What is that gauge that you are running in your ashtray Paul.. a turbo timer?
Ross
SLAMMED_C
02-23-2010, 06:47 PM
Originally posted by 23K
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cvFl7IQKe4
:D
LMAO.. that is hilarious!!
good post bro!
c280nz
02-24-2010, 01:21 AM
wow there is so much to say, u have just taken on a huge challange,
il ad a few of my oppinions from what has been said above,
firstly like paul says just go for a mild steel/ boiler pipe header, stainless is to much problems, i run a stainless with no problems but i wouldnt do one again and i know a few friends that wouldnt do it again, the biggest problem is they always crack and that is a pain in the ass, and they vibrate as paul found out,
plus if you go for a top mount you cant really see the manifold anyway.
i would say 44mm wastgate at the smallest, and yes the mounting of this is very important, ive seen a guy cut a wastegate off a manifold and weld it back on in like 5 different places before getting it right, but if you think logically about how exhaust flows you will get it right, like said machine both flanges after welding the header together,
your poor little auto box!!!!!
paul is the guru tho!
SLAMMED_C
02-25-2010, 07:31 PM
Originally posted by c280nz
wow there is so much to say, u have just taken on a huge challange,
il ad a few of my oppinions from what has been said above,
firstly like paul says just go for a mild steel/ boiler pipe header, stainless is to much problems, i run a stainless with no problems but i wouldnt do one again and i know a few friends that wouldnt do it again, the biggest problem is they always crack and that is a pain in the ass, and they vibrate as paul found out,
plus if you go for a top mount you cant really see the manifold anyway.
i would say 44mm wastgate at the smallest, and yes the mounting of this is very important, ive seen a guy cut a wastegate off a manifold and weld it back on in like 5 different places before getting it right, but if you think logically about how exhaust flows you will get it right, like said machine both flanges after welding the header together,
your poor little auto box!!!!!
paul is the guru tho!
I do know thats a FACT for sure! it will be a big challenge.. but I've suffered long enough with a semi fast car.. I want it to be really fast now!
I would also like your comments and advice Logan.. I know your turbo project must have been trying as well.
do you have any pics of your set up? Im interested to see.
A couple people have said that the thicker steel pipe would be a better route to go. but I think I will still go with the SS one. I just really prefer the look better. I still think I'll be able to see it enough to make it worth it!
I was thinking at minimum a 44mm waste gate.. any specific reason that a larger one would be better?
lol.. I know.. poor auto box is going to take a BEATING! I have thought about converting to a 6 speed manual.. I could still do it in the future.
It was only a matter of time,Logan would smell this topic from frickn miles^^ Well,hopefully with alittle direction from these two 202 mad kiwi guys we can help save you some undue effort in the long run!
Yep its no good for the bearings or cooling lines when the engine stops hence why im trying to bring the exchanger pump on once the engine stops!,will actually be using 3/8"(-6) alloy pipe,but are having trouble trying to get a decent bender for cheap(decent = $500)...might try hire one.
Also i think the steam pipe has a slightly smaller ID than stainless sizes and thus will give you better responce(possibly at the cost of alittle high end)
As logan mentioned,the wastegate angle is very important,when you reach boost limit the unneeded portion of exhaust gas needs to bypass the turbine as freely as possible,this is both good for efficiency/Hp and boost control.
my waste system is barely acceptable as mine exits at a right angle from the manifold and the centre peak inside the collector is slightly above where it exits...both are not desirable but we ran out of options/room.
one of the best ways is to gradually merge off the turbine housing,however this is very tricky on a top mount like the M111 and welding to the turbine housing is very risky!
Cool,it should all bolt straight in!,just make sure you do that crank pully up properly^^.
the thing in the ash try is that Defi display that i used to have mounted behind the steering wheel!,but have mounted the boost gauge there beside the cluster now as its a much to view there + it tidy's up the dash.
haha,yeh hope your auto has what it takes^^
Paul
SLAMMED_C
02-26-2010, 02:51 PM
Originally posted by 23K
It was only a matter of time,Logan would smell this topic from frickn miles^^ Well,hopefully with alittle direction from these two 202 mad kiwi guys we can help save you some undue effort in the long run!
Yep its no good for the bearings or cooling lines when the engine stops hence why im trying to bring the exchanger pump on once the engine stops!,will actually be using 3/8"(-6) alloy pipe,but are having trouble trying to get a decent bender for cheap(decent = $500)...might try hire one.
Also i think the steam pipe has a slightly smaller ID than stainless sizes and thus will give you better responce(possibly at the cost of alittle high end)
As logan mentioned,the wastegate angle is very important,when you reach boost limit the unneeded portion of exhaust gas needs to bypass the turbine as freely as possible,this is both good for efficiency/Hp and boost control.
my waste system is barely acceptable as mine exits at a right angle from the manifold and the centre peak inside the collector is slightly above where it exits...both are not desirable but we ran out of options/room.
one of the best ways is to gradually merge off the turbine housing,however this is very tricky on a top mount like the M111 and welding to the turbine housing is very risky!
Cool,it should all bolt straight in!,just make sure you do that crank pully up properly^^.
the thing in the ash try is that Defi display that i used to have mounted behind the steering wheel!,but have mounted the boost gauge there beside the cluster now as its a much to view there + it tidy's up the dash.
haha,yeh hope your auto has what it takes^^
Paul
It must have a nice Turbo stench to this thread. he found it!! I'm sure both you Kiwi guys will offer very helpful advice for my project.
why is a pipe bender costing so much?! Im guessing you are sussing out a pneumatic one? I'd say for sure rent one.. or have someone bend the lines for you.. make a template out of a coat hanger or something easy to bend and take it somewhere to have them bend it!
I will for sure look into the steam pipe.. but I'm still looking for it to be SS.
I'm pretty certain I'll have the room to make the waste gate exit at a decent angle. but I wont know for sure until I get my turbo manifold and turbo in place to see what kind of room is left.
Im not interested at all to weld onto the turbo housing!! I'll figure out something.
Still waiting for my alt bracket.. I have the bolts and a new N/A belt ready and waiting! hopefully get the bracket next week some time. then Ill remove the entire supercharger system, my Kleemann K23 kit and start with the N/A conversion! I also figured out how to get an MB OEM aux electric fan in place instead of that viscous one.. I have all the parts to do the conversion for that.. but I need to move my rad forward so there is room to put the fan in. I'll hopefully figure that out as well. yes yes!.. crank pulley is a must to be torqued!! which reminds me I need a new crank pulley bolt.
Oh okay.. so is the Defi display for your boost, a/f, egt and so on? I remember seeing another controller of some sort in your arm rest too. any new pics of your car Paul? I looked at car domain the other day, but I think I've sen them all before.
I have a new boost gauge and a/f gauge with data logger to install in my w202 for the turbo. comes with a wideband o2 sensor.. pretty slick set up. its made by Zeitronix.
for now the Auto has what it takes!.. Id like to do the 6 speed man, but if I decide to keep auto.. Im swapping to a newer style 722.6 tranny with the paddle shifters on the steering wheel.
The difference in a good pipe bender as it does a tight radius without collapsing or scoring the pipe,most of the benders in this catagory are a set of dies with a roller that follows the shape of the die,Iv had a look at alot of benders priced from $50 - 300 and you get very little for your money,infact it may be cheaper to make one!,as you say the other option was to have the local tube bending croud do it with there mandrel bending gear,however they needed 80mm between bends and bending up some wire + getting it right the first time was unlikely without the car onsite,so that will be the last resort.
The problem with the wastegate mounting is the pipe must come off around the collector somwhere(unless you bring it off individual pipes),which you will find tight as a tight thing once you get all the other pipes in there around it.
You have one major advantage not having the steering box there so you may be able to do all sorts of tricky things with the waste even if you go twin scroll.
Will be interesting to see the electric fan install!,are you moving the radiator forward because of the water pump?...if so another option is to run the N/A models pump and pump pully...give alot more space!.moving the rad foward might also clash with how the A/C fans mount,could be tricky.
The defi display just does oil temp/press,water temp,exhaust temp and fuel press. it doesnt do boost or afr,boost is best monitored on a gauge!,the boost gauge and the defi display link to the controller in between the seats.i also had a greddy multi switch in there which i was going to use to control the electric fans...but then i ended up just using the viscous so i removed and sold it
look forward to seeing the new gear!. sorry no new pics on cardomain i havent had it out for months,still waiting on the exhaust parts/divert valve so i can get it running again.
Just a thought on the wastgate topic(been thinking but it for days^^)the size it needs to be is somewhat dependant on a combination of your turbine size vs shaft speed(boost) Vs exhaust volume...in other words if you run a small turbine with low boost its likley you would need a fairly large wastegate...however if you ran high boost on the exact same housing you wouldnt need such a big gate as most of the exhaust gas would go through the turbine,likewise if you ran a large turbine there is lesser need for a large wastegate.
Another thought is weather or not a small wastegate at wide open flows better than a large wastegate that only opens slightly to give the equivilant however thinking more into it i dont think flow would make any difference as they both will open enough to allow the right amount to keep the desired boost level(which is contriversial to what i said earlier about good wastegate flow making it more efficient) ....one possible negative of a large gate may be that it will flow too much to quickly which could see you with boost stablitity problems...hmmmm
Anyways im sure you will but before you buy a gate have a good talk the tuners!
laters bro,
paul
SLAMMED_C
03-03-2010, 07:58 PM
Originally posted by 23K
The difference in a good pipe bender as it does a tight radius without collapsing or scoring the pipe,most of the benders in this catagory are a set of dies with a roller that follows the shape of the die,Iv had a look at alot of benders priced from $50 - 300 and you get very little for your money,infact it may be cheaper to make one!,as you say the other option was to have the local tube bending croud do it with there mandrel bending gear,however they needed 80mm between bends and bending up some wire + getting it right the first time was unlikely without the car onsite,so that will be the last resort.
The problem with the wastegate mounting is the pipe must come off around the collector somwhere(unless you bring it off individual pipes),which you will find tight as a tight thing once you get all the other pipes in there around it.
You have one major advantage not having the steering box there so you may be able to do all sorts of tricky things with the waste even if you go twin scroll.
Will be interesting to see the electric fan install!,are you moving the radiator forward because of the water pump?...if so another option is to run the N/A models pump and pump pully...give alot more space!.moving the rad foward might also clash with how the A/C fans mount,could be tricky.
The defi display just does oil temp/press,water temp,exhaust temp and fuel press. it doesnt do boost or afr,boost is best monitored on a gauge!,the boost gauge and the defi display link to the controller in between the seats.i also had a greddy multi switch in there which i was going to use to control the electric fans...but then i ended up just using the viscous so i removed and sold it
look forward to seeing the new gear!. sorry no new pics on cardomain i havent had it out for months,still waiting on the exhaust parts/divert valve so i can get it running again.
Just a thought on the wastgate topic(been thinking but it for days^^)the size it needs to be is somewhat dependant on a combination of your turbine size vs shaft speed(boost) Vs exhaust volume...in other words if you run a small turbine with low boost its likley you would need a fairly large wastegate...however if you ran high boost on the exact same housing you wouldnt need such a big gate as most of the exhaust gas would go through the turbine,likewise if you ran a large turbine there is lesser need for a large wastegate.
Another thought is weather or not a small wastegate at wide open flows better than a large wastegate that only opens slightly to give the equivilant however thinking more into it i dont think flow would make any difference as they both will open enough to allow the right amount to keep the desired boost level(which is contriversial to what i said earlier about good wastegate flow making it more efficient) ....one possible negative of a large gate may be that it will flow too much to quickly which could see you with boost stablitity problems...hmmmm
Anyways im sure you will but before you buy a gate have a good talk the tuners!
laters bro,
paul
This pipe bender sounds pretty heavy duty! it doesn't seem too cost effective to buy your own to use it once. I understand the whole thing with having to take the car to someone to have the pipes bent up to fit perfectly. but maybe the whole using some thicker gauge wire or thin pipe you can easily bend may work well as a template for them.
I still think I'll be a little better off then you were when you had to run all those pipes and the turbo.. I have a lot more space.. the power steering box not being there on my car gives me more options I think. but we will find out when I get to that point!
The electric fan has been on the back burner for a loooooong time! but I have all the parts, and after test fitting it and it NOT fitting at all, I had a look at a no kompressor w202 M111, I figured out the rad is moved further towards the front of the car. so after I move my rad, it will fit! and the small electric fans out front will be removed and disposed of! the 98 C230 does not have any fans in the front for the a/c.. so I wont be using them either.
Oh okay.. that system looks pretty sweet, all the gauges in the defi display are of great use, plus they are all in one unit, its very tidy. I agree you need a separate boost gauge and A/F gauge, probably more accurate.
some food for thought there on the waste gate, but I will for sure have to talk to someone about it when I get a hold of this guy to talk about my turbo options.
supercharger system being removed, Kleemann kit being removed, and then the N/A belt drive install is all set for friday! gonna be a long night.. hopefully not!
Actually its not to heavy duty,its just nobody ships them here so they all cost way to much...this one would be suitable and its $60usd (here its $320),its likely you will need to do alloy piping off your jacket as well!.
http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/7C6CE5EF77914977B9106C34658B3B1A/400_Series_Benders_3C.jpg
I think i test fit an electric fan shroud a while back too,its ment to slip into the same rubbers as the radiator does,however if i recall the radiator has round mounts and the shroud had half rounds which must mean the n/a M111 radiator muct have half rounds too?,i guess you could just make some mounts or just get the n/a radiator?(if there different).
...also if you do shift the radiator will you just bend the A/C piping to suit?,those fans on the front are suprisingly heavy for there size,removing could even help with understeer^^.
Have you though about if you removed the A/C fans you could mount the IC there?...it would make for short piping and you wouldnt need a large hole under your bumper!.
Have fun on the conversion,my guess is you will be driving it home after changing the bits?...hope it goes ok without boost^^.
SLAMMED_C
03-05-2010, 03:53 PM
Originally posted by 23K
Actually its not to heavy duty,its just nobody ships them here so they all cost way to much...this one would be suitable and its $60usd (here its $320),its likely you will need to do alloy piping off your jacket as well!.
I think i test fit an electric fan shroud a while back too,its ment to slip into the same rubbers as the radiator does,however if i recall the radiator has round mounts and the shroud had half rounds which must mean the n/a M111 radiator muct have half rounds too?,i guess you could just make some mounts or just get the n/a radiator?(if there different).
...also if you do shift the radiator will you just bend the A/C piping to suit?,those fans on the front are suprisingly heavy for there size,removing could even help with understeer^^.
Have you though about if you removed the A/C fans you could mount the IC there?...it would make for short piping and you wouldnt need a large hole under your bumper!.
Have fun on the conversion,my guess is you will be driving it home after changing the bits?...hope it goes ok without boost^^.
That is a decent pipe bender.. and I cant believe how much it will cost you! why so much down your way? because of having it shipped to you? or is that locating one local? I just may have to do some alloy pipe off my coolant feed as well.. we will have to see though!
Im not sure about that.. I think there are half rounds at the bottom of the rad too.. but I'll find out soon enough. hopefully tackle that soon. I ordered the different coolant upper and lower hoses for when I do move the rad forward more.. one of the a/c lines is different.. the one from the condenser to the receiver drier. Im going to try and get it to move a bit before I buy that a/c line. I think the water pump is different.. have to wait to see. there are 2 different part numbers for the kompressor and non kompressor water pumps.. but my parts guy couldnt verify since the part doesnt even come up when he tried to see who stocked it. Ill find out next week if the part exists or not! there isnt too much different between kompressor and no kompressor. I think I have it all sorted out.
I can imagine.. those fans in front arent exactly light. so hopefully they save a lil weight! I hadnt thought about doing the intercooler there.. might be enough room. but I have plans for a liquid to air intercooler set up, so I may just go ahead with that and figure that out. keep the heat exchanger where the stock intercooler is.
so far the conversion is a fail! I never even thought to bring a puller with me.. the crank pulley is half off (the kleemann kit has 2 parts to the crank pulley.. the actual pulley and an adapter that goes onto the crank and the pulley bolts to it) I never thought to bring a puller to get the second part off.. so I have to wait till tomorrow morning. get a puller from work.. go back to my storage unit and pull it off.. put the non kompressor crank on and take the tools I borrowed from work back to work! then continue with the rest of the stuff.
no Im not driving my W202.. I have a storage unit, my car is up on jack stands.. got my W210 as my daily driver! ;)
I think its a combination of shipping weight and low volume sales that make them that expensive here!.
You can bend the A/C quite far without any problems,well...mine did =).
There is an n/a pump and pump pully available,i ran this when i first did my conversion because its slighty less rotating wieght and the plan was to go electric,but then changed back to the Kompressor pump for two reasons,the impaller looked better(the n/a pump i got might have been a knockoff mb item) and i decided i was going to keep the viscous after all(well more so i couldnt be bothered fabricating a shroud for electric).
Water/air sounds like a good plan!.
bad luck on the puller!!,i thought you may have been doing it at work hence driving it home!...hope you've got a decent storage shed,the one i had was tiny which made it tough to do anything!
PICS!?....;)
SLAMMED_C
03-07-2010, 05:38 PM
Originally posted by 23K
I think its a combination of shipping weight and low volume sales that make them that expensive here!.
You can bend the A/C quite far without any problems,well...mine did =).
There is an n/a pump and pump pully available,i ran this when i first did my conversion because its slighty less rotating wieght and the plan was to go electric,but then changed back to the Kompressor pump for two reasons,the impaller looked better(the n/a pump i got might have been a knockoff mb item) and i decided i was going to keep the viscous after all(well more so i couldnt be bothered fabricating a shroud for electric).
Water/air sounds like a good plan!.
bad luck on the puller!!,i thought you may have been doing it at work hence driving it home!...hope you've got a decent storage shed,the one i had was tiny which made it tough to do anything!
PICS!?....;)
Anything in the states would cost too much to ship it to you? is the one you found local even? too bad its going to cost so much. you need someone to go on vacation to new zealand and bring you one!
good to know!! I'll have to give it a try and bend it a bit!
Okay then.. I'll have to see next week if my parts guy found it. I asked him to check for me, but the part number for the water pump (kompressor) didnt come up, I'm guessing because no one has ever ordered one before! but there were 2 different part numbers for the pumps. do you think I'll need to get the n/a one for the clearance? Im pretty sure once I move the rad forward I'll have enough room.
I have to say that a water to air intercooler will be more efficient, and just plain bad ass!
Yeh I know!.. so I ended up going back to my storage unit yesterday morning with the tools I needed.. got the Kleemann crank off and the n/a pulley on. so Im half way there!
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0200.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0201.jpg
couldn't really snap any pics.. really bad lighting in the storage unit.. plus the light shuts off after about 10 mins of me being there with the door open!
Ill try and snap a pic of the front of the engine with the new pulley in place. but as you can see the n/a pulley is on the left and the kleemann pulley is on the right.
Ill try and do a comparison of the OEM kompressor crank with the Kleemann crank.
My storage unit sucks.. it ha no power outlets, poor light and its not thaaaat big (10x20).
so the most I will be doing is swapping out all these parts for the n/a conversion. my buddy offered me his garage for a month and a half to do all the work I need with the turbo. so once I get all the parts I need I'll take him up on the offer!
still trying to figure out the turbo to use. maybe the GT35 is a lil on the big side. but I'm still trying for it!
Im still investigating shipping options,one from Canada was $50 by boat(air would be wicked expensive im guessing)
Heres a pick of my n/a pump and pully ,it would give you more room if you need it....so if your planning to put the heat exchanger somewhere infromt of the engine?,the extra space could help.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2943/3161/7356580123_large.jpg
Good news on the conversion then!,that overdrive pully looks massive^^,it would destroy a small planet if it ever came loose!! haha. Yeh my storage shed was the same,though there was power near by so i ran extension leads and flood lights^^.
Turbo project takes aaaages,tell your bud you need 6+ months garage time and take something to bribe with =P
All good man just get us some more pics when light allows!
edit: oh yeh what frequency is stamped on your n/a crank pully?
Paul
dokotela
03-07-2010, 10:28 PM
ah, finally caught up to you guys.
this will be most beneficial to me for the coming months.
i first have to decide whether to do m111 turbo on my 201, or m103 turbo, or m104 turbo.
if i choose the m111 turbo setup for my 201, i wouldnt turbo my 202, but if i choose the m103 or m104 setup, then i will definitely turbo my m111 202 .
so far, there seems to be a lot of "little" things that may have been easily overlooked when doing this.
i was thinking on going with a gt28 turbo on the m111. will this be the best option. i dont want to stretch the limits on the m111 engine in terms of revability, so i thought that early boost would be best. should i go smaller?
:)
SLAMMED_C
03-08-2010, 07:23 PM
Originally posted by 23K
Im still investigating shipping options,one from Canada was $50 by boat(air would be wicked expensive im guessing)
Heres a pick of my n/a pump and pully ,it would give you more room if you need it....so if your planning to put the heat exchanger somewhere infromt of the engine?,the extra space could help.
Good news on the conversion then!,that overdrive pully looks massive^^,it would destroy a small planet if it ever came loose!! haha. Yeh my storage shed was the same,though there was power near by so i ran extension leads and flood lights^^.
Turbo project takes aaaages,tell your bud you need 6+ months garage time and take something to bribe with =P
All good man just get us some more pics when light allows!
edit: oh yeh what frequency is stamped on your n/a crank pully?
Paul
Well thats pretty decent.. may take a lil bit to get to you though! well worth the wait if you save a couple hundred bucks.
Oh nice.. I can see the pump is a bit shorter.. It will be my last resort for more space if need it after I put the fan in. I still hope I have enough clearance without doing the pump.
Yeah the Kleemann pulley is redonculously HUGE! lol, I think it would destroy a small planet if it came loose!
well you lucked out a bit having an outlet so close to you! I have absolutely nothing! so I can only do the minimum in my unit. you really think i"ll need 6 months?! god damn I hope not! I want to drive it this year!
I will probably run the heat exchanger in the stock intercooler location.. the liquid to air units arent as thick so it should fit in the same area with no problems. Im going to have to completely custom make this whole kit!
I dont know what the frequency is on the n/a pulley.. does it make a difference? I'll try and look for it the next time i'm working on my w202.
Stock Kompressor crank on the left, Kleemann crank on the right!
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0204.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0205.jpg
[QUOTE]Originally posted by dokotela
ah, finally caught up to you guys.
this will be most beneficial to me for the coming months.
i first have to decide whether to do m111 turbo on my 201, or m103 turbo, or m104 turbo.
if i choose the m111 turbo setup for my 201, i wouldnt turbo my 202, but if i choose the m103 or m104 setup, then i will definitely turbo my m111 202 .
so far, there seems to be a lot of "little" things that may have been easily overlooked when doing this.
i was thinking on going with a gt28 turbo on the m111. will this be the best option. i dont want to stretch the limits on the m111 engine in terms of revability, so i thought that early boost would be best. should i go smaller?
so you did a M111 engine swap in your W201? if you turbo the M111.. I'd probably go with either a GT28 or GT30 if you want reliability and some decent power.. I wouldn't go any smaller then the GT28 though. maybe Paul could offer some advice for you on that. but I must say that a M103 or M104 turbo would be dope! twin turbo that shit!
dokotela
03-08-2010, 10:04 PM
i havnt swapped out the 201 yet, hence the number of options i have. do you think it would be better to twin turbo the l6? i thought it would be more efficient on a v6. that russian dude with the blue w124 with the m103 turbo is making some serious power and on stock internals. crazy stuff.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoV8ePXxFSE
i also have the option of m104, NA screamer with individual throttle bodies off an M3, but that would be a costly affair cos almost all the stuff would have to be custom.
did you ever consider twincharging? what about that remote turbo setup by sts?
SLAMMED_C
03-09-2010, 08:14 PM
Originally posted by dokotela
i havnt swapped out the 201 yet, hence the number of options i have. do you think it would be better to twin turbo the l6? i thought it would be more efficient on a v6. that russian dude with the blue w124 with the m103 turbo is making some serious power and on stock internals. crazy stuff.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoV8ePXxFSE
i also have the option of m104, NA screamer with individual throttle bodies off an M3, but that would be a costly affair cos almost all the stuff would have to be custom.
did you ever consider twincharging? what about that remote turbo setup by sts?
Oh okay, I see. Thats a few engine choices! I would say do the M104 and twin turbo! there is a mosselmann kit on the market for twin turboing an M104 engine.
I have seen and heard of that russian guys car.. he has his own website too, he is one crazy mo fo! his W124 puts down some SERIOUS power.
now that would be sick and different.. individual throttle bodies are so classic and just plain cool. It all really depends on what you want to do with your car. how much HP are you looking to make on the engine?
I had thought about keeping my SC and adding a turbo.. but it doesn't make sense to do both.. lack of room as well for both. and I don't know if I'll be able to make enough boost with the rear mount.
koepfsm
03-09-2010, 10:45 PM
how much are you putting the Kleemann pulley up for..... im very interested.
SLAMMED_C
03-10-2010, 06:07 PM
Originally posted by koepfsm
how much are you putting the Kleemann pulley up for..... im very interested.
sent you a PM
you really think i"ll need 6 months?! god damn I hope not! I want to drive it this year!
Deja vu!...I think iv been stuck in this exact situation for almost 6 years^^
So if you run one heat exchanger where the oe IC is will you put the other exchanger infront of the engine so that its a simple route for the charge piping?
The frequency on the pully is different between the n/a and kompressor pullys...which i think is due to the diameters and different loadings on the pully...so the frequencies at which they work in are different,however i was wondering if there were different pullys on the n/a engine,maybe the 180/200/220 etc have slightly different frequencies...maybe.
Originally posted by dokotela
ah, finally caught up to you guys.
this will be most beneficial to me for the coming months.
i first have to decide whether to do m111 turbo on my 201, or m103 turbo, or m104 turbo.
if i choose the m111 turbo setup for my 201, i wouldnt turbo my 202, but if i choose the m103 or m104 setup, then i will definitely turbo my m111 202 .
so far, there seems to be a lot of "little" things that may have been easily overlooked when doing this.
i was thinking on going with a gt28 turbo on the m111. will this be the best option. i dont want to stretch the limits on the m111 engine in terms of revability, so i thought that early boost would be best. should i go smaller?
:)
Hey!
IMO If you are planning to install a new engine i would go with the M104 and go twin or single turbo as you dont need alot of pressure to make it perform.
ITB's would be a unique achievement,however i think you would have more fun going turbo.
Iv thought about running the V6 3.2(one with a manual gearbox from an SLK) ,however there much more expensive and i would imagine theres not alot of room to mount turbos under the heads!?!
If you end up turboing your M111 and dont want any more than 350 - 400hp than the GT28 should be just fine,depending on how restricitive your exhaust is you may want to run the larger turbine housing.
SLAMMED_C
03-12-2010, 03:01 PM
Originally posted by 23K
Deja vu!...I think iv been stuck in this exact situation for almost 6 years^^
So if you run one heat exchanger where the oe IC is will you put the other exchanger infront of the engine so that its a simple route for the charge piping?
The frequency on the pully is different between the n/a and kompressor pullys...which i think is due to the diameters and different loadings on the pully...so the frequencies at which they work in are different,however i was wondering if there were different pullys on the n/a engine,maybe the 180/200/220 etc have slightly different frequencies...maybe.
lol.. well true mang!.. you've been working on your car for forever! at least its a beast now.
The heat exchanger will be in where the OE intercooler is.. and the other part the intercooler core will be somewhere in the engine bay, either up in front of the engine leading to the throttle body or depending on if I do a custom intake manifold I may integrate the cooler into that somehow. but right now its all ideas.
hmm.. thats a good question.. I dont know if there would be different frequencies for the different engine sizes.. I guess in theory it would make sense.
I'll see if I can locat eit on my n/a crank. may be working on my w202 tomorrow, getting more parts off my car and more n/a stuff in!
Hmm,integrating the exchanger into the plenum sounds like a pretty trick way to go(saw that SC 104 with that on some forum)...possible draw backs would be space,you may want to do what i did and recreate the washer bottle...or take it a step further and relocate the steering reservoir!(wish i had!,though iv just mounted the idle control valve behind it today so its not so bad we ended up mounting the TB so high)
...Mounting infront of the engine and bring the charge round into a nice plenum also sounds pretty trick!...im interested about how you mount that drive by wire TB...its a bulky heap of s***^^..
anyway,I guess your planning to reuse the oe plenub for now so mounting infront of the engine seems the logical choice...and tbh doing custom plenum/ic is going to take some serious time and effort!.
Any more thoughts on the GT35?
SLAMMED_C
03-13-2010, 10:17 AM
Originally posted by 23K
Hmm,integrating the exchanger into the plenum sounds like a pretty trick way to go(saw that SC 104 with that on some forum)...possible draw backs would be space,you may want to do what i did and recreate the washer bottle...or take it a step further and relocate the steering reservoir!(wish i had!,though iv just mounted the idle control valve behind it today so its not so bad we ended up mounting the TB so high)
...Mounting infront of the engine and bring the charge round into a nice plenum also sounds pretty trick!...im interested about how you mount that drive by wire TB...its a bulky heap of s***^^..
anyway,I guess your planning to reuse the oe plenub for now so mounting infront of the engine seems the logical choice...and tbh doing custom plenum/ic is going to take some serious time and effort!.
Any more thoughts on the GT35?
Ya for sure! I thought it would be pretty trick and different.. oh really? where is this SC M104? I want to see pics!!
right now its all ideas. until I get around to actually doing it, then I'll know if it can actually work or not.
at least the things you are doing are working out for you in the end! so you added an idle control valve?
I will be mounting the drive by wire throttle body (on my custom intake manifold) how you've mounted yours basically. its all the rest Im not sure about!
yes for now I will use the stock plenum, and have to run some sort of front mount intercooler (since Im removing all the stock stuff to sell as a kit for someone).
I dont know man.. I still really want to run the GT35.. but it seems everyone I talk to says it will work, but I will have no bottom end at all.. and not much usable power as I dont have the RPM range for it.. so I may have to go with a GT30.. as long as I can put down 450hp I'll be happy. do you think its possible with a GT30?
And pics you shall get;) :
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61694&d=1228442265
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61695&d=1228442325
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61746&d=1228611750
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61776&d=1228774911
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=62610&d=1230774749
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=62611&d=1230774857
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=63015&d=1231708441
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=64116&d=1234147251
I think the plenum should have been slightly deeper at the ends to allow better flow but weather or not that would help would need to be proven.
Yip have "finally" added the idle control valve lol,these little jobs can take alot of time^^...got the valve second hand from an E30($10),its the same Bosch one from the 190e,then went and got a 190e rubber hanger from my parts guy,then got the engineer guys to spin a couple of mounts up,then made a bracket for it to mount on the steering pump bolts(go my new mini workshop^^),then traveled accross town to the only fastener place open on a Saturday arvo,which wasnt open just someone had come in for 30 mins lol,but i got my countersunk hex M6x45 and 35 and now she's mounted tight behind the steering pump...just need to pay through the nose for 2 tight radius samco hoses(if i cant find cheap 19mm radiator items),then cut and form some 19mm alloy pipe i got last week to mate to the charge pipe and plenum,then travel to the end of the universe(far side of city) to have it welded(damn i want to buy a AC/DC welder),then run some wires from ECU,then book it into the Dyno tuners to have it sit there for a week so they can do cold starts on it every morning and calibrate the idle control...oh and maybe do the close loop control also while its there.Also have just installed that oil thermostat,didnt like the blue Aeroquip hoses(rated 160 degree,black is rated 90) so added some expandable braided tube,looks better than light blue and provides some mechanical protection too.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2943/3162/7356580528_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2943/3162/7356580529_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2943/3162/7356580525_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2943/3162/7356580526_large.jpg
Are you planning to run an air/air IC first?,it might be quite alot cheaper in the long run to build the water/air and replumb it later to suit the intake plenum!?
Hmm yeh the GT30 would be my pick,it does around 500hp and will be more responsive for the 2.3L,you could also opt to get the 3076R which flows alittle more than the 71 ,however from a quick look at the compressor maps the 76R even with its anti surge housing looks to have more chance of surge !!...based on that and a partial wild guess my pick would be the 480hp GT3071 with a T3 .64 maybe the .82 turbine and a nice 4" inlet compressor housing(atp)...i run T3 .82 on mine however my wheel is alot small than the GT30's so turbine speed was very high very low in the rpm band,which didnt help with surge.
SLAMMED_C
03-13-2010, 09:35 PM
Wow.. thats a pretty cool set up. is he a NZ guy? is his project finished? that is pretty trick.. my intake manifold will actually house my intercooler core, unlike his that is just before the intake manifold. I would have to agree with you that the intake manifold could have been larger, but maybe he didn't have the space?
Nice, the idle control valve looks great, just have to plumb it into the intake now?
the oil cooler switch housing turned out great too.. great job on the brackets.. they look trick!
I had thought to run an air to air for now (just to get the car running with the turbo set up), and then afterwards (probably during the winter) go ahead with fabing up the liquid to air! but now as you say.. give myself 6 months to get this turbo all worked out, so I might as well do it all at once!
I agree with you, I think my best bet is to go with the GT3076R, seems to be more logical, easier to get the power I want, and to have a good power band as well!! and I still have the potential for upwards of 500hp.. so thats a benefit for sure!
So you think the GT3071 would be a better choice? I'd rather do the GT3076! but thats something I'll have to discuss and figure out. do you think with either the GT3071 or 3076 I'd be okay with a 0.82a/r? for sure 4" inlet and 2.5" discharge, 3" V-band exhaust. hmmm.. I think I'm getting closer to deciding and ordering a turbo!
Na he's not from nz,I just came accross the thread on Peachparts.com!
Probly best to make the IC system once,though simple in design it can be a tricky thing to make if you want it to flow nice!.
Just a thought on mounting the IC at the plenum...I guess you would want the water to enter in a way that was evenly distibuted along the core,so that air temps didnt vary between cylinders...im not sure if this would happen if you didnt do that but its somthing to consider should you build it that way.
Its difficult to say just how well the GT30 will perfrom until you have everything fabricated,bolted in and tuned,you may find it's quite laggy but after some correction on the fuel maps you may find it spools very quickly...because theres so many factors its really hard to say which of the two will be better suited,however at the end of the day the 76 flows more than the 71 so if your after more Hp then the 76 would be the way to go. its hard to say which turbine housing you will need,if you go with the .63 it might spool nice but is more likely to give surge than the .82,if you go .82 you will loose spool time and gain some top end.
which ever way you go there will be a chance you will want to try a different turbine housing at some stage!.
SLAMMED_C
03-14-2010, 01:57 PM
Originally posted by 23K
Na he's not from nz,I just came accross the thread on Peachparts.com!
Probly best to make the IC system once,though simple in design it can be a tricky thing to make if you want it to flow nice!.
Just a thought on mounting the IC at the plenum...I guess you would want the water to enter in a way that was evenly distibuted along the core,so that air temps didnt vary between cylinders...im not sure if this would happen if you didnt do that but its somthing to consider should you build it that way.
Its difficult to say just how well the GT30 will perfrom until you have everything fabricated,bolted in and tuned,you may find it's quite laggy but after some correction on the fuel maps you may find it spools very quickly...because theres so many factors its really hard to say which of the two will be better suited,however at the end of the day the 76 flows more than the 71 so if your after more Hp then the 76 would be the way to go. its hard to say which turbine housing you will need,if you go with the .63 it might spool nice but is more likely to give surge than the .82,if you go .82 you will loose spool time and gain some top end.
which ever way you go there will be a chance you will want to try a different turbine housing at some stage!.
I've got some pics of my own!! Sorry for the REALLY bad quality.. was using my iphone camera (no flash). I should have brought my camera.. wasnt thinking!
Everything is removed here:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0213.jpg
New n/a Alt bracket installed:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0214.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0215.jpg
whats peachparts?! any more pics of that car on there? link??!
yeh I hear ya.. makes more sense for it to be made once, less cost. I'll have to start fabing up something soon, Im sure I will need to tweak it a bit once installed! I think for now I'll just go with a different design (until I get having around to the intake manifold built), I'll run something similar to this to cool the boost entering the engine.
http://www.absoluteradiator.com/images/Liquid-to-airKit.jpg run it somewhere near the throttle body.. or as close as possible.
Well I guess with either route I will be into lots of tuning and tinkering to get it to run just right. I think I will go with the GT3076.. It will suit my needs better, and I can always swap out turbine housings if needed.. the 0.82 a/r will benefit me better with the higher top end.. Im still confident I will have good bottom end even with the 0.82.. its a ball bearing turbo.. it should spool quick!
come on guys.. buy my parts!! I need to get the Turbo fund up and running!
OEM supercharger kit [with all parts required to bolt onto a C230 (97-98)] $2000 OBO
Kleemann Kit: for 1999-2000 C230 Kompressor.
with: Kleemann Crank, new supercharger belt, new colder spark plugs, larger idler pulley, alternator pulley, MAS relocation kit.
$1500 OBO
PM me or email me.
All good looks like you def need better lighting,but better than no pics^^....I see a shiney new alternator bracket and something you haven't removed!!..... the SC clutch and bypass plugs =P(you'll get around to when you redo your harness at some stage haha!.
Another thing you may have to move is that a/c coolant pump and its piping so you have more room around the turbo:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2943/3161/7356580475_large.jpg
The site is mercedesshop.com,heres the link to the forum http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=234593
Most of the guys in the performance section know there stuff!.(my user on there is Pagz)
http://www.absoluteradiator.com/images/Liquid-to-airKit.jpg
This is exactly what i had in mind,looks like it would mount nicely in front of the engine too(if theres enough space with the electric fan)!. I would think it to be much cheaper to buy this kit than get it fabricated yourself!...might want a more compact wider exchanger for the bumper though...how much does this kit cost?.
Yes buy the parts!=P
SLAMMED_C
03-15-2010, 05:41 PM
Originally posted by 23K
All good looks like you def need better lighting,but better than no pics^^....I see a shiney new alternator bracket and something you haven't removed!!..... the SC clutch and bypass plugs =P(you'll get around to when you redo your harness at some stage haha!.
Another thing you may have to move is that a/c coolant pump and its piping so you have more room around the turbo:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2943/3161/7356580475_large.jpg
The site is mercedesshop.com,heres the link to the forum http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=234593
Most of the guys in the performance section know there stuff!.(my user on there is Pagz)
http://www.absoluteradiator.com/images/Liquid-to-airKit.jpg
This is exactly what i had in mind,looks like it would mount nicely in front of the engine too(if theres enough space with the electric fan)!. I would think it to be much cheaper to buy this kit than get it fabricated yourself!...might want a more compact wider exchanger for the bumper though...how much does this kit cost?.
Yes buy the parts!=P
I know.. lighting is horrible.. after about 10 mins the light in the unit shuts off by itself.. so I have to work by flashlight the rest of the time!
true true.. pics is better then no pics!!
The shiny new alternator bracket is indeed resting in the engine bay! I just put an OEM n/a alternator pulley on my alternator today.. took it in to work.
At some point I'll have to remove those wires from the harness!! everything is a SLOW process for a bit until I can get my own work space!
thats a good idea.. I may have to relocate the coolant pump.. give me a bit more wiggle room around the turbo.
I'll have to check it out.. peachparts huh!
That kit as it sits is almost $1000!! I can fab one up for a bit less.. a couple of the parts I can get for free from a buddy (he has a W211 E55 Kompressor pushing 700hp, and he has some old parts he doesn't use.. heat exchanger!!) I also already have an OEM charge air pump from the AMG M113K and v12 twin turbo's. get me started at least.. so the only things I really need are the liquid cooler and a reservoir of some sort... then the custom fab lines. Id really like to run 2 heat exchangers though.. one in front of the bumper, and one like the one in the pic in the wheel well area with an electric fan.
At least if you custom make it,it will fit snug!.
Just tripped over this old coolant tank by my desk at work,just a thought....if you end up having to make one and making one over there is way expensive you can have this one free+ shipping,needs a new bottom plate welded on it,however its better made in terms of design than the one i have now as it has baffles inside just like the oe one,doesnt come with a pressure cap though but still has the pressure cap mount.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2943/3161/7356580191_large.jpg
Any updates?
Just a thought,Im having minor problems with oil getting into the system some where,either rings or valves or turbine seals or oil/air seperator system....iv tested it all and cant find any real evidence of failure...
however...my oil return is -10 and enters the sump under the oil level,so there will be some pressure build up there along with some burn of from super heating of the oil as it passes through the bearing housing(Iv noticed when you removed the oil cap after the engine stops there is a small amount of white smoke/white mist present inside the engine,very similar to what oil burn-off looks/smells like),this could be causing problems in the oil/air seperator system or could be getting out via the turbine seals etc etc,its pretty hard to see what goes on inside the oil drain without fitting clear hose etc ...but i did alittle research and found this:
The oil drain from a turbo operates via gravity. That is, the pressure drop across the turbo bearing is nearly complete and it is only gravity that causes the oil to flow back to the sump. In fact, it cannot really be termed ‘oil’ as after it has passed through the turbo, the oil becomes an aerated foam – one reference suggests it looks like ‘dirty whipped cream’. It’s therefore important that:
-The drain line is much larger in diameter than the pressure feed line
-The connection to the sump is made above the oil level
-The drain pipe is kept as close to vertical as possible
If the sump drain joins at a level below the oil, the much lower density of the aerated oil will cause it to sit on top of the sump oil, gradually backing-up to the turbo.
http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/A_2606/article.html
So im looking at ways to plumb it in above the sump oil level while still retaining a decent fall on the pipe,which due to oil level might need to be in through the side of the block(not really an option for me)....if so then an alternate,less affective measure would be to tee in a vent from the turbo drain pipe up to the upper front cover of the engine...so that oil still drains in the same location i have now and if there is a build up it will still vent.
Anyway just a thought, as it may be best to sort this stuff before you have it all bolted in and ready to go ;)
SLAMMED_C
03-24-2010, 08:12 PM
Originally posted by 23K
At least if you custom make it,it will fit snug!.
Just tripped over this old coolant tank by my desk at work,just a thought....if you end up having to make one and making one over there is way expensive you can have this one free+ shipping,needs a new bottom plate welded on it,however its better made in terms of design than the one i have now as it has baffles inside just like the oe one,doesnt come with a pressure cap though but still has the pressure cap mount.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2943/3161/7356580191_large.jpg
Any updates?
Yes for sure! snug fit is good.
hmmmm.. I will have to consider this. I doubt my stock reservoir will hold up to any heat being close to the turbo! we will have to talk! Thanks for the offer bro.
no real updates yet. I havent been able to work on my car the past little bit. my brother has been in the hospital for the past week.
I'll hopefully have a chance to do some work on the weekend maybe. do a few more things (get my alternator back in, remove the rest of the OEM parts for the supercharger, drain coolant, move rad forward more, put in new longer rad hoses, remove aux fans for a/c and install my electric suction fan)
oh.. OH OH OH.. I did order my turbo! so there is no turning back for sure now!
went with the GT3076, 0.82a/r, 3" v-band exhaust housing, 4" inlet with 2" outlet, and the anti-surge cover. should give me the power I'm after.
Ill have to post up some pics on the weekend maybe of some more progress.. (of my empty engine bay!!)
Some food for thought there Paul.. I'll have to consider this when plumbing up my turbo. Thanks for the info. I'll have to give it a read.
SLAMMED_C
03-28-2010, 06:35 PM
Did a bit of work on my W202.. finally got the alternator back in.. so the N/A Belt Conversion is completed..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/ABeltConversion1.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/ABeltConversion7.jpg
I also finished removing all the SC parts.. got the intercooler out and the rest of the IC pipe, took the front bumper off to get the IC out! also tried to relocate my rad further forward.. but I think I need a different rad. the drain screw seems to hit the bottom rad support in its most forward position. I will check tomorrow to see if the Kompressor and non Kompressor have different rads. oh and also removed the front electric fans for the a/c. that is a heavy piece Paul!
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/ABeltConversion8.jpg
Got about a 3 week wait until I see my Turbo.. its on back order from the shop I ordered it from. I'll post up pics of it when I get it!
Thats all the updates for now.
oh and I used a REAL camera for pics this time!!
SLAMMED_C
03-29-2010, 08:10 PM
Ended up ordering a 1998 C230 Rad today.. the kompressor and non kompressor are different, I really need the clearance of the rad pushed further forward (as the drain for the rad hits the lower rad support) wasn't too expensive either so I just ordered it.
my other dilema here is the liquid intercooler! I've been searching around.. I have found 2 different ones.. ones almost $500 and the other one is $180.. bit of a price difference!
2 companies are Frozenboost.com ($180 one) and PWR ($500 one)
FROZENBOOST:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/images/product/intercooler_type19_picture.jpg
PWR:
http://www.absoluteradiator.com/images/PWRBarrelIntercoolers.jpg
The PWR one is much nicer look IMO.. but the price difference is HUGE! The frozenboost one does seem very decent. I cant justify buying the PWR one and spending 3 times as much for it.. I can buy so many other parts to make my liquid intercooler.
Doesnt sound good,hows your brother doing?
Good to hear the turbo is on its way!!...thats where it all really begins...that is,when you drop it in and find holy sh!t this is going to be a mission^^.
Glad you went with the slightly smaller GT30 with the right parts and tune im confident it will produce the power you want.
Finally some decent camera pics^^
The n/a setup looks good!,your taking it to a whole new level doing the entire n/a cooling system too^^....is there a reason the kompressor radiator is bigger?(ie better cooling for the high hp output?)....in saying that if you remove the a/c fans theres better air flow anyway so it would possibly make no difference or could even be better than the larger radiator.
Yeh those a/c fans + mounting shroud = heavy!.
That PWR cooler looks far better in terms of how the end tank flow looks,however im not a fan of the weld on -10 fittings as they will be soft from weld over heating the alloy and tend to leak easily,where as the shaman will require a -10 to -10 threaded fitting which will do the job much better.
how much room do you think you will have when the electric fan is in?...i guess that will dictate which one you use or if you need to make a custom one.
The shaman looks easier to mount too!.
Whats this just arrived on my desk from US...^^
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2943/3162/7356580532_large.jpg
SLAMMED_C
03-30-2010, 03:33 PM
Originally posted by 23K
Doesnt sound good,hows your brother doing?
Good to hear the turbo is on its way!!...thats where it all really begins...that is,when you drop it in and find holy sh!t this is going to be a mission^^.
Glad you went with the slightly smaller GT30 with the right parts and tune im confident it will produce the power you want.
Finally some decent camera pics^^
The n/a setup looks good!,your taking it to a whole new level doing the entire n/a cooling system too^^....is there a reason the kompressor radiator is bigger?(ie better cooling for the high hp output?)....in saying that if you remove the a/c fans theres better air flow anyway so it would possibly make no difference or could even be better than the larger radiator.
Yeh those a/c fans + mounting shroud = heavy!.
That PWR cooler looks far better in terms of how the end tank flow looks,however im not a fan of the weld on -10 fittings as they will be soft from weld over heating the alloy and tend to leak easily,where as the shaman will require a -10 to -10 threaded fitting which will do the job much better.
how much room do you think you will have when the electric fan is in?...i guess that will dictate which one you use or if you need to make a custom one.
The shaman looks easier to mount too!.
Whats this just arrived on my desk from US...^^
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2943/3162/7356580532_large.jpg
He is doing better, but still not anywhere close to leaving the hospital yet.. he's almost been there for 2 weeks now. blood clot still in his lung, and he has pneumonia as well. hopefully get some more answers this week.
I'm hoping its about 3 weeks till I see it! yeah I can imagine! as soon as I sit it in the engine bay Im going to say what did I get myself into?! I dont even know when I'm going to be able to get my car to somewhere so I can start fabricating the turbo manifold and exhaust. I gotta work something out with my buddy. I agree.. the GT30 will work a heap better with my application. I know it will produce the power I'm after as well!!
lol.. I know.. about time huh! I borrowed my mums digicam!
took forever to finally put in.. but the n/a set up is good.. all the stock SC parts are gone.. everything!
well I don't know if the Kompressor rad is larger or not.. but there is a HUGE price difference in them! the non kompressor is $180 my cost.. the kompressor one is about 3 times as much! I hope there is no difference in size.. to be honest Im sure they look identical in size.. I mean the suction fan I'll be using will sit in front of my current rad if I wanted to. so I dont know if its larger or not. I'll be able to tell you when I get the n/a rad (coming from Vancouver).
those a/c fans don't even work anyways! fans are shot.. but I kept all the other stuff form them. mounting brackets and such. just in case! I don't understand why they need something so bulky up front for the a/c fan.. the suction fan on the non kompressor works just as well.. hopefully no cooling issues!!
Thats is true as well.. better transition from the PWR barrel intercooler core.. I can always have ends made for the frozenboost unit.. the price point is so much cheaper for the frozenboost ones as well. gives me more money to use elsewhere! oh really.. you think the PWR -10 fittings on the intercooler barrel could be weak? hmm.. never thought about that.
room wise I'm not too sure.. but I am confident that the frozenboost one will fit in there with no issues.
the frozenboost site has soooo much of the parts I'll need.. they even have all the -10 fitting.. hoses. I'll probably be ordering a bunch of the parts from these guys.
oh my!.. you got 3 pipe benders?! did they come as a set? hopefully they weren't too much man! look good though. guess I know what you'll be up to.. bending your pipe!
oh and we'll have to talk about the coolant tank you have!
DAMN!!,that doesnt sound very good,all the best man hopfully he gets better soon!!.
Will be really interesting too see how the n/a radiator/electric fan turns out...that price difference leads me to think there maybe quite a difference...guess we will find out soon enough =)
The PWR AN weld on fittings are they same as what iv used all over my engine bay,most of my weld on AN fittings have leaked as the welding process softens them,which also makes the threads soft and suseptable to galling/binding when they do leak you can buy a very soft alloy gasket to go inbetween(there a pain to fit).iv found its a good idea to use a small amount of antisieze on all AN alloy threads.
If you go with the FB cooler you will need to buy AN fittings to thread into it so you can attach hose ends,but because they dont require welding the male AN will last much longer,seal better and is usually anodized too. Im considering removing the male weld ons from my plenum and replacing with female AN thread so i can do this too,it would reduce the chance of vaccum leaks,last time i had one on the brake booster...made for some pretty sh!t braking^^
Hose and fittings are best bought as local as possible...as they can be expensive and you somtimes need to return what you dont use!.
Haha .. i finally found a company in US who would ship it here,all up they cost $328usd(440nzd) including shipping and all charges.
initially i was oinly going to get one,but thought it may be more economical in the long run just to get the 3 main sizes. they wanted over $300nzd just for the 3/8" locally here...lmao
Got tomorrow off work and then its easter weekend....thats means loads of bending^^
Yip np about the coolant tank,can always send you pics if you need it.
laters!
SLAMMED_C
03-30-2010, 07:34 PM
Originally posted by 23K
DAMN!!,that doesnt sound very good,all the best man hopfully he gets better soon!!.
Will be really interesting too see how the n/a radiator/electric fan turns out...that price difference leads me to think there maybe quite a difference...guess we will find out soon enough =)
The PWR AN weld on fittings are they same as what iv used all over my engine bay,most of my weld on AN fittings have leaked as the welding process softens them,which also makes the threads soft and suseptable to galling/binding when they do leak you can buy a very soft alloy gasket to go inbetween(there a pain to fit).iv found its a good idea to use a small amount of antisieze on all AN alloy threads.
If you go with the FB cooler you will need to buy AN fittings to thread into it so you can attach hose ends,but because they dont require welding the male AN will last much longer,seal better and is usually anodized too. Im considering removing the male weld ons from my plenum and replacing with female AN thread so i can do this too,it would reduce the chance of vaccum leaks,last time i had one on the brake booster...made for some pretty sh!t braking^^
Hose and fittings are best bought as local as possible...as they can be expensive and you somtimes need to return what you dont use!.
Haha .. i finally found a company in US who would ship it here,all up they cost $328usd(440nzd) including shipping and all charges.
initially i was oinly going to get one,but thought it may be more economical in the long run just to get the 3 main sizes. they wanted over $300nzd just for the 3/8" locally here...lmao
Got tomorrow off work and then its easter weekend....thats means loads of bending^^
Yip np about the coolant tank,can always send you pics if you need it.
laters!
No not that good at all.. but he is getting better slowly.. so take it one day at a time. hopefully he will be released from the hospital before the weekend.
I hope it turns out to be a VERY easy install on the rad and fan and everything works perfectly! lol.. not bloody likely huh?! one can dream! the rads have to be the same dimensions.. so I don't know what's different about them. I sure I'll find out when I got to install it I'll need different lines and things! I already have the coolant hoses. but yeh exactly.. the price difference is HUGE! so there has to be a difference.
well that is a pain in the ass mang.. but its good they make seals to put in between with those types of fittings. sounds like all modding is a pain in the ass.. have to swap out the fittings now.. I don't know where it ever ends.. no matter what custom thing we do, there is always some soft of mess it causes so that it has to be redone!
I'm pretty damn sure I'll be going with the FB intercooler core, just makes sense. but I'm waiting to see if they make custom heat exchangers at all.. the ones they have on the site wont work for me.. too large. if they don't then the next place I'll go to is EVOsport, they have a kit they sell for the W211 E55, an additional heat exchanger kit.. the heat exchanger form that kit is perfect size.. talked to the guy a while back about it, says he can sell the HE separately.. its $450 though! save on one thing.. spend more on another!
brakes are pretty damn important.. thats not a good thing to have issues with!! swap out them fittings asap!
I hear ya.. the prices seem pretty decent on the hoses for my intercooler.. braided stainless lines too. they sell the lines by the foot.. I'll first mock up everything with something cheap first, garden hose or something!.. then buy the lengths I need.
Thats a pretty decent price considering you got 3 different benders and a pipe cutter! shipping and everything huh.. not bad at all.. good find. who you get it from?
spending easter bending pipe?! wont the wife be pissed you're not spending it with her?!
I've got 2 more days of work, then off friday for easter!
send me a couple pics of the tank Paul. I'm pretty positive I want it!
SLAMMED_C
04-03-2010, 10:38 AM
I did a bit of work today, got the 1998 c230 rad in place.. but nothing is ever direct fit! I need to get the short cooler hard lines that go from the rad to the flex lines for the trans, then I need the aux water pump hose that goes from the reservoir to the rad!
but the rad does fit well... (after removing some more covers and things!) and the aux electric cooling fan I have fits in there perfectly.
gotta order some more parts.. including the water to air intercooler.. get that mocked up in there as well.. seems to be enough room to fit it where I'd like to.
here are some pics..
1999 rad on left, 1998 rad on right for comparison:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0224.jpg
close up of 1999 rad:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0225.jpg
close up of 1998 rad:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0226.jpg
1998 Rad in car:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0227.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0229.jpg
side note.. is this feed here on the block near the front just above the alternator the oil feed I will want to tap into for my turbo??
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0230.jpg
Logic
04-03-2010, 08:59 PM
i know this is going to sound stupid...but why didnt you get a 99 like what was in there?
Logic
04-03-2010, 09:03 PM
ok i read why you did that for clearence right ?
SLAMMED_C
04-04-2010, 08:34 AM
Originally posted by Logic
ok i read why you did that for clearence right ?
yeh I was having clearance issues when I was trying to move my stock 1999 rad forward to give room for the aux electric fan. I could have left it as it was and just used my stock a/c fans, but I had already purchased the large single aux fan about a year ago, so I'm putting it in!
Hey,
Radiator looks good!,interstesting seeing where the radiator outlet is compared to the oe one,wonder why the put it so low?,its possibly more efficient that way.
Is that the trans cooler built in on the right side there?,was it seperate on your oe item?
lol yeh^^.every thing you touch requires twice the amount of parts and effort you initially planned for ^^,good to hear the fan fits well!...also before you get lines for the aux water pump are you going to move it away from turbo?
If your planning to use stainless braided hoses for all i need to convince you not too^^.....lol, the fittings are a frickin pain to install,they are expensive,the braided hose will cut and chaff its way through anything it touches,and overall,there just not needed in most cases...for your IC coolant lines i would use pushlock or just hose and clamp with a rating of 120 degree's C or more,use SS braided or solid line(SS or steel) for oil supply to the turbo,the return line is debatable as it depends on how far you take it away from the turbo in metal before you change to rubber.
Just a thought on your heat exchanger,if you cant find one thats cheap enough you could always use an oil cooler(however you would need to check internal fin design as it might not be as efficient as one built specifically to cool water)
haha well,she wasnt too mad about it,we did go away for most of the weekend so i didnt get too much bending done,however what i did get done was a frickn mission....trying to make that rigid stuff fit perfect at each end is definitly not a 5 mins job^^.
Just need to make the stays and the pipe on the other side of the jacket:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2943/3162/7356580533_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2943/3162/7356580534_large.jpg
Edit: You would also want to use braided or solid for the turbo water jacket,i think braid is rated for 230C?...
SLAMMED_C
04-05-2010, 07:00 PM
Im not sure at all why they are so different.. the rad width is identical, but the core thickness seems to be thicker on the 1999 rad (my old rad), Im not too concerned about it though as I think this set up will be able to flow more air with the huge suction fan mounted in front of it!
the trans oil cooler is still built onto the 1999 rad but its actually more on the end tank, more built in, where as the 1998 one looks like a separate tank stuck on the side! I've ordered the trans lines, so I should be getting those in tomorrow.
as for the aux water pump, I think I will have to move it before the turbo goes in, so I'm holding off on ordering the hose for now.
I had thought about using the stainless braided hose for the entire intercooler system, its not that expensive for the braided line.. definitely more expensive then regular heat resistant hose no doubt.. but its $3.99 a foot for the braided stainless hose. I'll be insulating anywhere that the braided lines touch.
turbo oil feed will for sure be either braided or solid line, most likely SS, and the return line, well Im not sure yet.
I have thought about that a lot actually, but I don't know if the cooling properties would be the same for an oil cooler, I don't know if the fin size and design would warrant good cooling.
I have found one that is PERFECT.. the evosport one, but the heat exchanger alone is $450! I'm going to ask if he can give it to me any cheaper. all he can say is no right?!
thats good.. nice weekend away with the girl is always relaxing and fun!
good to see you got some pipe bent up!.. and I must say it turned out absolutely amazing Paul, nice work. is that SS or Aluminum pipe? very nice mang.
I must say it probably isn't easy at all to get the to line up perfectly like that. really nice work. I'm very impressed.
what size fitting did you use to convert the coolant bleeder on the block to the fittings you used?
and also, the pic I posted last post about the oil feed from the block.. am I right on that one?
*EDIT* I just ordered my liquid to air barrel style intercooler from frozenboost.com, should have that in 6-10 days!
Yeh i think you will be just fine with the n/a cooling setup,the electric fan sure looks tidy!!
Sounds like you have the hoses sorted,$4CAD per foot is much cheaper than here!...what do the hose ends cost there?(eg 90 Degree)
Surely there must be more available than the evo sport cooler?,$450 is pretty pricey lol but if its made for the job and fits perfect than i guess its a go-er!. have you got any pics of the evosport?
Thanks mang!,lucky the alloy 3/8 tube is cheap($12nzd per 5m)...i used about 4m trying to make just that one part^^...then found its more efficient to make the prototype in sections and use hose to stick em together...then bend the final off that!
Where my coolant comes out of the block iv taken a fitting and machined the AN off the top,then drill and tapped an M14x1.5 into its centre to allow the -6 Banjo to bolt up,i forget what size the thread is into the block(just ran down stairs to find the old drain fitting but could find it^^)
Nope thats the chain tensioner,if you release it remember to reset it before reinstall!...heres a pic of the oil feed:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2943/3161/7356580298_large.jpg
Cool will be interesting to see how this FB cooler fits in!
Will get you pics of the rad tank etc etc soon !!!
Updates??? ...*brushes off the cobwebs^^
liquidusculade
03-20-2011, 06:43 AM
im curious as well. ive been contemplating the turbo idea or the engine swap idea as well. then i just figured why not do an engine swap and then turbo that lol.
SLAMMED_C
05-07-2011, 07:37 AM
Yo Guys!
Haven't been in here for so long.. forgot club202 was running again!
Can remember what I last posted about, and I'm too lazy to go and read through it all!
Lots of progress.. not finished yet however. still have a lot to complete before I have her on her wheels and moving around again. I'm aiming for sometime in june.. hopefully at the latest mid june. but we shall see.
At the moment I am waiting on some parts that I ordered. waiting on a bunch of AN fittings and hoses, injector connectors, intercooler hoses and pipe. I just got a bunch of stuff yesterday and earlier in the week. so I think I have my exhaust parts sorted out. got some 3" ss straight pipe, and 45degree and 60degree bends, I have all the v-bands already as well as the o2 sensor bungs. I also got yesterday my 4" intake pipe and my 2.75" boost pipe. so I will be able to start fabricating the boost pipe and full exhaust system. earlier in the week I got my magnaflow muffler and tips. its a 3" inlet and dual 2.5" outlet, the tips are 3.5"
Well lets try and think about what I've gotten completed over the past 6-8 months..
bought a 6 speed manual trans from a 2001 SLK230K.. this trans will meet my car next year hopefully..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/6speedmanualtrans3.jpg
I got a new steering wheel..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0856.jpg
I got new headlights and tail lights..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0610.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0417.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0609.jpg
I ordered my Quaife LSD.. but they sent me the wrong one.. and I am still in talks with them about the proper one for my car. they do have the correct center section now, they have been trying to fabricate a way to keep the axle flanges clipped into the diff, they did say august they should have a produciton LSD ready for me. this is the incorrect one they sent me..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0463.jpg
stock diff center compared to Quaiffe (incorrect for my car as I found out)..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0772.jpg
I got a set of racing seats..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0608-1.jpg
I worked on my custom interior wood trim, skulls!..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0529.jpg
I bought a set of 17" multi-piece AMG wheels that I will use on the track.. 17x8.5 and 17x10..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0776.jpg
to be continued next post..
SLAMMED_C
05-07-2011, 07:38 AM
Bought some more parts for my future 6 speed manual transmission swap.. flywheel, pedal assembly..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0824.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0607.jpg
I installed a new oil pan with a return fitting on it..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0698.jpg
I got my valve cover powder coated red..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0720.jpg
I got some SLK55 AMG front and rear brake calipers.. I sent them out and had them stripped down and powder coated red!
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0558.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0662.jpg
I also installed the brakes on my car..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0780-1.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0782-1.jpg
I had custom shims made out of delrin for my KW variant2 coil over kit..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0726.jpg
continued next post..
SLAMMED_C
05-07-2011, 07:39 AM
I then installed my full KW suspension after receiving the shocks back from KW (had them rebuilt)..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0743.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0760.jpg
test fit the liquid intercooler..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0775.jpg
I installed the turbo manifold, the valve cover, the turbo, all the feed and return lines, the intake manifold flange
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0735.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0736.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0739.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0755.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0792.jpg
Installed a custom washer tank/oil seperator..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0777.jpg
also installed a custom coolant tank..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0788-1.jpg
continued next post..
SLAMMED_C
05-07-2011, 07:40 AM
I cut open the bottom side of the front bumper support so I could weld in a steel plate to mount the heat exchanger to..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0822.jpg
I ordered a bunch of aluminum intake and ss exhaust parts..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0856-1.jpg
ordered my magnaflow muffler and tips..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0858-1.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0859.jpg
started to fabricate my HKS boost controller bracket..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0794.jpg
Now I am able to do some more work after the welding I had done this morning.. I had the steel plate welded in. will take some pics this afternoon and post them up. now I can install the rad again and figure out my coolant hoses. start to figure out my boost pipe and work towards figuring out my exhaust.
I still have some parts on order as I mentioned at the start of my long update!, so I hope those make it to me this week. I will be able to get a lot of things done over the next few weeks as long as I get everything I ordered.
I hope I haven't forgotten anything!! more updates to come.
JRE320
05-07-2011, 09:11 AM
Wow!!! That's a lot of stuff. How much does the caliper cost you and where did you get it from?
I'm interested in those caliper for my E55 if they got them.
where did ya get that exhaust/turbo manifold?
SLAMMED_C
05-08-2011, 11:52 AM
Wow!!! That's a lot of stuff. How much does the caliper cost you and where did you get it from?
I'm interested in those caliper for my E55 if they got them.
yes.. lots and lots of stuff! still more parts coming as well!
the calipers weren't too cheap.. cost me about $2000 for all 4 calipers (cheaper than the dealer however), and then you still need brake discs and pads on top of that.
I bought them from parts.com. had the best price I could find.
SLAMMED_C
05-08-2011, 11:53 AM
where did ya get that exhaust/turbo manifold?
It was custom made. I bought it off of a fellow member when he was parting out his car.
SLAMMED_C
05-08-2011, 11:58 AM
A couple updates...
Had the steel plate welded in yesterday morning. turned out very nice, also test fit my muffler and tips to see how it will sit and see if there are any clearance issues. not sure if I should run the tips straight or do them staggered. took a flick of each.. chime in with feedback on that. and then finally test fit my 4" intake pipe and AEM 4" air filter.
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0865.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0864.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0860.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0863.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0862.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0861.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0866.jpg
JRE320
05-08-2011, 03:41 PM
yes.. lots and lots of stuff! still more parts coming as well!
the calipers weren't too cheap.. cost me about $2000 for all 4 calipers (cheaper than the dealer however), and then you still need brake discs and pads on top of that.
I bought them from parts.com. had the best price I could find.
It's pain in the ass for the calipers. It will cost me $1792 just for the front only.
SLAMMED_C
05-08-2011, 07:22 PM
It's pain in the ass for the calipers. It will cost me $1792 just for the front only.
Where you looking for calipers? is that $1792 for OEM fronts?
The SLK55 calipers (fronts) I got were the regular AMG brakes.. so they clear 17" wheels.. which is good for me and my 17' track wheels!.. but there are also the performance package SLK55 front calipers.. still a 6 piston caliper but a bit larger.. and they also require the slightly larger discs (I think the PP calipers and discs are off of the CLK63 BS).
Im not sure the cost of Rotors for the stock SLK55 brakes.. I'm guessing around 6-800 a piece.. pads around about $300 a set (fronts).. rears I'm not sure the price of discs and pads.. cant remember! but you still have the cost of discs and pads on top of the $2000 for the Calipers. but if you only want to upgrade the fronts.. you could probably do the fronts for about the same price you got quoted. just a matter of finding the discs and pads cheaper.. I bet parts.com sells them.
oh.. only issue I had on the parts.com site was they don't list an SLK55 brake parts.. for some reason it comes up as an SL55.. they are wrong. so contact them and they can get you what you need.. or give part numbers and they can get you info on price and stock.
JRE320
05-09-2011, 02:23 PM
yes, it's the front only. Thank you.
Yo!
I vote keep tips straight ;)
Why did you cut the chassis? ....is that an Air to Air i can see^^
The OZ amg's are just plain sick!...
Black silicone looks nice,i use that either side of the IC,was planning to do the whole lot but...well you know the story...
i agree with pagz, keep those tips straight!
strictlyspeakin
05-11-2011, 10:48 AM
3rd vote for straight
SLAMMED_C
05-11-2011, 07:36 PM
Yo!
I vote keep tips straight ;)
Why did you cut the chassis? ....is that an Air to Air i can see^^
The OZ amg's are just plain sick!...
Black silicone looks nice,i use that either side of the IC,was planning to do the whole lot but...well you know the story...
Yeh I think straight is the way to go with the tips. good call!
cut the chassis to make a good spot to mount my heat exchanger for the liquid to air intercooler. it should work well! nope, no air to air.. going Liquid!
damn right those OZ's are sick.. hella sick and rare! cant wait to get some race tires on them. probably gonna order tires for them soon.
I like the black silicone.. I had thought about going with red.. but decided it would be too much colour.. so stuck with black.
i agree with pagz, keep those tips straight!
noted!!
3rd vote for straight
and noted! straight it is.
horgantrevor
05-13-2011, 01:00 AM
staggered is nicer the euro look and OME look
Yeh if the bumper is more rounded...the C36 bumper is near square so staggerd would just look odd.
Ross - if you can get the angle of the muffler body the same as the bottom of the spare wheel well so it angles up slightly and dead straight ,makes for a very clean look...flat or pointing down is hidious but each to there own =)
SLAMMED_C
05-14-2011, 09:10 PM
Yeh if the bumper is more rounded...the C36 bumper is near square so staggerd would just look odd.
Ross - if you can get the angle of the muffler body the same as the bottom of the spare wheel well so it angles up slightly and dead straight ,makes for a very clean look...flat or pointing down is hidious but each to there own =)
I'll have to keep that in mind when I tackle my exhaust! thanks for the tip.
I did some work on my car again.. dont have any pics of the work I did (except for one) got a bit dark and I forgot to bring my camera.. my phone cam has no flash so nothing would have shown! snapped one pic of my LED tails installed with my phone though as outside I could see a bit.
been mainly concentrating on getting the coolant lines all figured out. I have almost completed all the alloy coolant pipes. just 2 more to finish up and I can move onto other things. I'll get it all completed sunday for sure.
will have pics sunday of the work I have completed.
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_0566.jpg
SLAMMED_C
05-15-2011, 01:41 PM
Worked on the sleeping beast again.. got a bit done. I'm getting excited as I can now see things coming together!!
I worked on the final coolant pipes I was making out of aluminum, also started on the boost pipe.
most of the things were in place for a test fit of all the parts.. check clearances and such. everything is looking good so far, need to order some more hoses! story of my life. so hopefully I can get those ordered up from SAMCO asap. then it will be off to the welders to get all the aluminum pipes welded together.
I think this coming weekend I will be tackling the exhaust. looks like it will be a pain in the ass to do.. but Im up for the challenge! going to borrow a buddies chop saw and a buddies mig welder so I can tack all the pipe in place. once its all tacked and how I want it.. I'll drop it off at the welders as well to have it SS tig welded.
I also started pulling open my stock engine wiring harness.. need to do some modifications to it (shorten some wires, lengthen others) I think that will be a good task for next weekend as well.
I have figure out a spot for the intercooler reservoir as well.. so I need to fabricate a bracket for that, and I have also decided to put the MAS on the boost pipe leading into the throttle body, so I need to fab up a flange for the MAS to bolt to on the side of the boost pipe. work on those this week at work.
Well on to the pics.. got a few of the items I have been working on.. as well as an engine shot with all the parts in place.. you get an idea of what it will look like once complete!!
The Pics!...
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0871.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0872.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0873.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0874.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0875.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0876.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0881.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0882.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0877.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0880.jpg
SLAMMED_C
05-15-2011, 01:42 PM
and finally a decent pic of the LED tails...
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0883.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0884.jpg
The led tails look great!!!
Bit of a pain with the auto's radiator,would have been good to run the manual's one,but i guess you still need trans cooling until you go manual.
Good to see all the turbo bits are starting to fit in,are you planning to run flexible couplings(x2) between the TB and heat exhanger?...theres a heap of engine movement once you up the HP on those engines so it might put alot of pressure on the plenub and IC,you might also want to go with the heavier V8 mounts.
horgantrevor
05-15-2011, 04:11 PM
hi i was wondering what is the bar in your boot going from left to right near rear shocks is it a strut brace and if so what have you bolted it too
a better would would be good thx
i have never seen it before
SLAMMED_C
05-15-2011, 04:26 PM
The led tails look great!!!
Bit of a pain with the auto's radiator,would have been good to run the manual's one,but i guess you still need trans cooling until you go manual.
Good to see all the turbo bits are starting to fit in,are you planning to run flexible couplings(x2) between the TB and heat exhanger?...theres a heap of engine movement once you up the HP on those engines so it might put alot of pressure on the plenub and IC,you might also want to go with the heavier V8 mounts.
Thanks.. they were the only ones I could find that actually looked nice. all the other ones have the clear lenses.. too rice for me! hopefully they work! been sitting around for a year!
yeh I know.. it is a huge pain to have to run the 98 C230 rad for auto trans.. but I need it until next year when I do the tranny swap! everything is working out though.. just some extra fabrication.
I know.. its really nice to see the almost finish product now.. engine will look so sick with the turbo goodies sitting in there. oh yes.. I will be running rubber couplings between the intercooler and throttle body. just need to order them all up. need to order up a few coolant hoses and intake hoses from SAMCO. I just put them like that for fabrication purposes.. give me an idea of where things will sit. I'll have to look into the v8 mounts.
hi i was wondering what is the bar in your boot going from left to right near rear shocks is it a strut brace and if so what have you bolted it too
a better would would be good thx
i have never seen it before
It is indeed a strut bar.. it is made by Weichers. it is bolted to the body at either side just above where the shocks bolts through the body.
horgantrevor
05-15-2011, 04:56 PM
do you have a link to a site for them
SLAMMED_C
05-15-2011, 07:38 PM
do you have a link to a site for them
The site is all in german.. but I believe this is the link to the pdf file for the pricing on the front and rear strut braces. best bet is to contact them I think.
http://www.wiechers-sport.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=64&Itemid=119
c43tech
06-01-2011, 10:39 AM
Dude it looks great! How did you do the Skull interior trim items? I would love to do that to all my wood trim pieces!
SLAMMED_C
06-02-2011, 06:24 PM
Dude it looks great! How did you do the Skull interior trim items? I would love to do that to all my wood trim pieces!
It was a lengthy process! and I'm still not complete.
but basically I found a bunch of images online, printed them off. then cut them all out and made a collage of skulls on a template I made of the wood trim pieces. I then made a photocopy of the collage (so it was 1 flat piece of paper). I then sanded the wood down, glued the paper to the wood. mixed some resin up and put 2 coats of resin over the paper. let it cure. wet sanded the resin to smooth it out as much as I could without sanding through the skulls!
The final step will be getting the parts clear coated for a bit of durability.
SLAMMED_C
06-11-2011, 05:33 PM
Got some more work done.. have been working on the exhaust system.
Pics from last weekend:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0946.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0945.jpg
Pics from today, got a bit more of the exhaust done:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0962.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0964.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0963.jpg
I will be doing some more work tomorrow.. but I will have to order some more bends.. 45 degree and 60 degree, plus some exhaust hangers to complete the exhaust. which I hope to have done by next weekend.
Nice work Ross!!,is that a cat i see? Hopefully the concrete has warmed up a bit for ya?!.
SLAMMED_C
06-11-2011, 08:00 PM
Nice work Ross!!,is that a cat i see? Hopefully the concrete has warmed up a bit for ya?!.
Thanks Paul! ummm.. yes it's a "cat"!! as long as it looks like its a proper cat, if I can fool you I'll be okay when I'm on the street!
lol.. yes indeed the concrete has warmed up a bit!
horgantrevor
06-12-2011, 03:34 AM
do you know how to know if your cat is working correct
if you get a laser temperature reader and point at front of cat when engine is up to temp
the difference between the front of cat and back should be about 50 degrees
hear is the funny bit its the back of the cat nearest to back box side that is hottest not the side nearest to manifold as you would think this is because the cat is burning off the excess fuel gases and un-burnt fuel
NW_Merc
06-15-2011, 02:56 AM
do you know how to know if your cat is working correct
if you get a laser temperature reader and point at front of cat when engine is up to temp
the difference between the front of cat and back should be about 50 degrees
hear is the funny bit its the back of the cat nearest to back box side that is hottest not the side nearest to manifold as you would think this is because the cat is burning off the excess fuel gases and un-burnt fuel
I don't think it's going to be a functional cat or is it?
horgantrevor
06-15-2011, 03:01 AM
It might be or the noise would not be nice from a empty cat , it would sound like a blow in exhaust better to have a straight pipe in that case
the noise would have a hollow noise to it
Thanks Paul! ummm.. yes it's a "cat"!! as long as it looks like its a proper cat, if I can fool you I'll be okay when I'm on the street!
lol.. yes indeed the concrete has warmed up a bit!
Good to hear!...building it on jacks is hard enough =)
I would imagine the "cat" is solid pipe straight through?..or has it got perforation and packing?. My OE C230K exhaust had what looked like a cat up front but when we cut it out it was just a muffler =)
SLAMMED_C
06-15-2011, 08:40 PM
Good to hear!...building it on jacks is hard enough =)
I would imagine the "cat" is solid pipe straight through?..or has it got perforation and packing?. My OE C230K exhaust had what looked like a cat up front but when we cut it out it was just a muffler =)
building on jacks in SUPER hard!! I'll be happy when I have my garage!
it is straight through 3" ss pipe. very nice piece.. and not that expensive either.. cost me $40.
lol.. nice.. so no cat even on your car.. just a muffler! do you need to get emissions tests done down in NZ?
wrenchturner1980
06-16-2011, 11:53 AM
What is your cluster out of? Does it display the information and can you change menus with your new steering whee?
zmatt
06-16-2011, 12:58 PM
yeah thats a nice gauge cluster.
^^ I swear i'll never do it again on jacks,but if i get this 5.4 i'll have to build the front part again!!
We dont have emissions testing down here,but we have a 94db noise limit...thats actaully pretty loud!.
Cluster is CLk55,might have one myself soon =P
SLAMMED_C
06-16-2011, 07:58 PM
I don't think it's going to be a functional cat or is it?
No not very functional.
It might be or the noise would not be nice from a empty cat , it would sound like a blow in exhaust better to have a straight pipe in that case
the noise would have a hollow noise to it
It is a housing with a 3" straight pipe through it.. so no hollw noise from the empty cavity of the catalyst housing.
What is your cluster out of? Does it display the information and can you change menus with your new steering whee?
The cluster is out of a W208 CLK55, the steering wheel is a modified W210 steering wheel. and yes I can indeed go through different menus, change radio stations, raise and lower volume, pick up and hang up calls.
yeah thats a nice gauge cluster.
Thanks.
^^ I swear i'll never do it again on jacks,but if i get this 5.4 i'll have to build the front part again!!
We dont have emissions testing down here,but we have a 94db noise limit...thats actaully pretty loud!.
Cluster is CLk55,might have one myself soon =P
lol.. there's always more to build bro! so is the CLk looking like a good candidate?
damn.. you lucky kiwi's! no emissions testing.. I can deal with a db limit.. hate having emissions testing!
lets hope you do end up with a CLK55 cluster as well!
zmatt
06-16-2011, 10:00 PM
no emissions testing here in KY either. How hard is the clk gauge mod? is it a simple swap or does it take some rewiring?
Haha yeh,well maybe one day we will have a garage like this : http://190rev.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36547
...nice lift^^
I dont know what i'd do if we had emissions testing!!...its not exactly a bad thing from a health point of view but would have to do some sort of quick bolt in/out cat if they do bring testing in.
Im still working on the guy with the 55,called in last night to see him but its still not a go yet,he's waiting on another party to come back to him,hopefully its swings my way!.
Im hoping to use the steering wheel from the CLK as well!,looks the same at the W210 you have(minus the slk bit if thats what it is?),however that clk doesnt have command,but im not too fussed,i do want the auto aircon from it though;)!...and might even do away with stoptech and run the 55's amg brakes,think they have more wheel clearance and pad area.
SLAMMED_C
06-17-2011, 06:40 PM
no emissions testing here in KY either. How hard is the clk gauge mod? is it a simple swap or does it take some rewiring?
Its not a hard mod.. but it is costly for al the stuff. from what I remember you need the CLK cluster, E class steering wheel, a different srs ring, and a small harness for CAN to the steering wheel and cluster that goes to the rest of the car.
Haha yeh,well maybe one day we will have a garage like this : http://190rev.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36547
...nice lift^^
I dont know what i'd do if we had emissions testing!!...its not exactly a bad thing from a health point of view but would have to do some sort of quick bolt in/out cat if they do bring testing in.
Im still working on the guy with the 55,called in last night to see him but its still not a go yet,he's waiting on another party to come back to him,hopefully its swings my way!.
Im hoping to use the steering wheel from the CLK as well!,looks the same at the W210 you have(minus the slk bit if thats what it is?),however that clk doesnt have command,but im not too fussed,i do want the auto aircon from it though;)!...and might even do away with stoptech and run the 55's amg brakes,think they have more wheel clearance and pad area.
Damn.. that garage is redonculous! and that guy does some amazing work. wish I could have all those machines to build things like he does! I too hope to have a garage like him as well!!
emissions testing is great for the environment, great for the government to make some serious cash.. but for any other reason.. its a waste of time. just thing how much more power cars would have if there was no emissions standards at all!! but yes a bolt in item would be key.
good luck on the CLK55.. hope it all works out for you Paul.
I think the steering wheel from a w208 is the same as the one in a w210.. I cant see it being different. which slk bit?
oh trust me.. comand is wicked! you will wish you had it. if you want to see.. contact Steve of MbenzNL.. he is the OEM options pimp daddy. thats who I got my w210 E55 steering wheel from, my SLK32 steering wheel, my comand kit, my multi-function kit, tv tuner kit. he's a cool guy too. would the auto air con mean swapping out the heater box as well? arent your stoptech brakes larger than the CLK55's? are the 55 ones a 4 piston caliper? same as the C32 ones?
NW_Merc
06-25-2011, 04:00 PM
Yeh i think you will be just fine with the n/a cooling setup,the electric fan sure looks tidy!!
Sounds like you have the hoses sorted,$4CAD per foot is much cheaper than here!...what do the hose ends cost there?(eg 90 Degree)
Surely there must be more available than the evo sport cooler?,$450 is pretty pricey lol but if its made for the job and fits perfect than i guess its a go-er!. have you got any pics of the evosport?
Thanks mang!,lucky the alloy 3/8 tube is cheap($12nzd per 5m)...i used about 4m trying to make just that one part^^...then found its more efficient to make the prototype in sections and use hose to stick em together...then bend the final off that!
Where my coolant comes out of the block iv taken a fitting and machined the AN off the top,then drill and tapped an M14x1.5 into its centre to allow the -6 Banjo to bolt up,i forget what size the thread is into the block(just ran down stairs to find the old drain fitting but could find it^^)
Nope thats the chain tensioner,if you release it remember to reset it before reinstall!...heres a pic of the oil feed:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2943/3161/7356580298_large.jpg
Cool will be interesting to see how this FB cooler fits in!
Will get you pics of the rad tank etc etc soon !!!
Sorry, just a question from this picture. Does the oil feed need to be tapped into the engine block or do you just add a banjo bolt fitted to an existing channel? I am in the process of gathering information in order to plan my own turbo conversion.
SLAMMED_C
07-15-2011, 05:07 PM
There is a feed available on the block, you need to remove a plug off bolt, and buy the appropriate fittings to use the block feed.
NW_Merc
07-20-2011, 03:39 PM
There is a feed available on the block, you need to remove a plug off bolt, and buy the appropriate fittings to use the block feed.
Is there a feed for cooling for the turbo too?
SLAMMED_C
07-25-2011, 08:47 PM
Is there a feed for cooling for the turbo too?
Yes there is.. there is an engine block drain for draining the coolant from the block.. just remove that stock fitting and again buy the appropriate fittings to use the block feed.
SD202
07-27-2011, 09:15 AM
Do you have any plans to also use a water methanol injection system for keepin that turbo nice and cool ? I dont remember you mentioning anything but just curious im about to install a water meth kit on a turbo application myself and was wondering if you had any experience with them.
SLAMMED_C
07-27-2011, 08:12 PM
I have a few updated pics.. got my exhaust tig welded.. and then the next day I painted it black!! anyways. here is my exhaust. just need to fit the tips on and get those welded.
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_1038.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_1036.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_1037.jpg
Do you have any plans to also use a water methanol injection system for keepin that turbo nice and cool ? I dont remember you mentioning anything but just curious im about to install a water meth kit on a turbo application myself and was wondering if you had any experience with them.
No sorry SD.. have no experience with Meth kits.. I've seen them but never installed them or known anyone who used it. sorry.
Wicked! Looks great in black...Now dont knock it all off when you install^^...small bits of carpet are key! ;)
It could be pretty loud!...I had that exact setup with another muffler in the middle and found it a tad loud in the cabin!...but i know your tastes.....
Is there a feed for cooling for the turbo too?
As Ross said,use the drain plug to supply the coolant for the turbo,but remember your creating a parallell path to the original,so where you return the coolant matters...IMO the closer to to the inlets of the pump the better!
SLAMMED_C
07-30-2011, 06:06 PM
Wicked! Looks great in black...Now dont knock it all off when you install^^...small bits of carpet are key! ;)
It could be pretty loud!...I had that exact setup with another muffler in the middle and found it a tad loud in the cabin!...but i know your tastes.....
As Ross said,use the drain plug to supply the coolant for the turbo,but remember your creating a parallell path to the original,so where you return the coolant matters...IMO the closer to to the inlets of the pump the better!
I just put the front section in and mid section in today. need to fit the rear section in and mark it for tip location. then get those welded on.
good tip with the carpet.. I used a large piece of cardboard.. worked too!
hmm.. you have me worried its going to be loud!! I dont want a recreation of when I had my Eisenmann race muffler on.. I got pulled over all the time for that being "too loud"! we shall see how it sounds first as is.. if I dont like it then I will have to add in a resonator. he he.. I like it loud.. but I want to be a bit more stealth then I used to be in my w202!! I want to be able to hear it.. but not hear it from 2km away!!
zmatt
07-30-2011, 06:28 PM
The turbo is going to muffle the exhaust somewhat, but don't rely on it.
The turbine will knock it back but It will be fairly loud outside the car for sure... It will be the drone inside which gets to you!...I put money on centre mufflers shortly^^
SLAMMED_C
07-30-2011, 09:23 PM
The turbo is going to muffle the exhaust somewhat, but don't rely on it.
I think it will muffle a lot of the noise.
The turbine will knock it back but It will be fairly loud outside the car for sure... It will be the drone inside which gets to you!...I put money on centre mufflers shortly^^
The only reason I say that the turbo will muffle a lot of the noise is because my buddies brother has a MK2 golf with a VR6 swap and a GT40 turbo.. he is running a side pipe (as its a drag car) no muffler or anything.. its not as loud as you would think for a car running a short pipe out of the side of the car.
I know it will be loud running, no cat in my car, 3" pipe from the turbo to the muffler and a straight through muffler.. it will be loud.. but I bet not as loud as my Eisenmann was! if its too loud.. then Paul will be right and I will be putting in a resonator! who's taking bets?!
Yeh i bet the eisenmann was loud,my first exhaust was a 2.5" straight through system on the original 230k setup...it was much louder than the turbo setup with 3". You will likey be ok with the outside noise...but if the drone gives you a headach it'll need centres!
SLAMMED_C
08-19-2011, 06:29 PM
An update for everyone.
I got my Aluminum parts back from the welders earlier in the week. got a few flicks to share- they will follow.
I am still waiting on my Samco hose order.. taken a lot longer than I was ever expecting.. I think I am at about 8 weeks now.. maybe longer. They are waiting for another order to be shipped out from the U.K. so I am still waiting on 2 more hoses, the ones they have, I have asked them to ship them out to me so I can hopefully get some of these parts in my car.
I have a couple things that I can do over this weekend. so I will work on what I can until the Samco order gets here.
Here are the Aluminum parts I had welded up, parts pictured are my boost pipe with 50mm BOV flange and custom integrated MAS, intake manifold with welded up inlet I wont be using, intercooler brackets, turbo air filter/inlet pipe with welded bung, coolant pipes, liquid intercooler "t" piece:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_1073.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_1074.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_1075.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_1076.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_1077.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_1078.jpg
horgantrevor
08-20-2011, 12:37 PM
looking good cant wait to see it in the car and setup
SLAMMED_C
09-04-2011, 07:24 PM
A few more pics of progress. waiting for 2 more samco hoses that didnt make the last shipment, need to get 2 aluminum parts welded, need to get the tips welded onto the muffler still. most other things are getting finished up as the weeks go on.
Engine bay shot:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0038.jpg
Custom coolant pipes and intercooler mounted:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0039.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0040.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0041.jpg
Intake manifold mounted:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0043.jpg
Turbo shot:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0044.jpg
Heat exchanger and intercooler pump:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0047.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0049.jpg
zmatt
09-05-2011, 09:41 AM
I cant stop staring at your engine. it's beautiful.
SD202
09-05-2011, 12:12 PM
sweet jesus thats beautiful.
Yujin
09-05-2011, 12:28 PM
How much in total did this whole project cost you? Very nice!
Hey Dude,
Looks great!,Always good to see it coming together!!..any more word on what you will do with the ECU?
Using that larger port for the brake vac line turned out nice!
SLAMMED_C
09-21-2011, 10:32 PM
How much in total did this whole project cost you? Very nice!
Not sure yet as I'm not finished! but I bet in the 5-7000 range.
Hey Dude,
Looks great!,Always good to see it coming together!!..any more word on what you will do with the ECU?
Using that larger port for the brake vac line turned out nice!
still at a stand still as I'm waiting on 2 more samco hoses.. great hoses.. but it takes for freakin ever to get them from the uk.
I'm getting there! so much for driving it this year I think.
not too certain what band.. but for sure still going with stand alone. for now, just keep my stock ecu with the upsolute tune. should run fine on 10psi of boost.
yeh that brake booster vac line worked out great.. fits perfectly.
zmatt
09-22-2011, 11:50 AM
Slammed, does upsolute also do custom tunes or are you just using their canned 220hp tune?
SLAMMED_C
09-23-2011, 11:09 AM
Slammed, does upsolute also do custom tunes or are you just using their canned 220hp tune?
My tune was somewhat custom. for sure depending on what mods you have they can customize the tune.
zmatt
09-23-2011, 04:10 PM
awesome. I was looking at their site and they seem to be a better deal than powerchip. how much does it cost to have a custom one done? And how do they go about the process of making the tune? Do they send you a wideband and a data logger or what?
SLAMMED_C
09-30-2011, 08:21 AM
awesome. I was looking at their site and they seem to be a better deal than powerchip. how much does it cost to have a custom one done? And how do they go about the process of making the tune? Do they send you a wideband and a data logger or what?
The cost was the same as the normal Tune, they just tweeked the stock Upsolute tune to accomodate the mods I had on my car.
as for tuning, they will need to download the stock program from the ECU, make the modifications to the tue and then flash the computer with the new tune.
no data logging or wideband required.
zmatt
09-30-2011, 09:11 AM
sweet. I may be able to reach 300hp with boltons then, depending on how good their tune is, but they get 220hp and 251lbs of torque without any other mods so it's promising.
SLAMMED_C
09-30-2011, 07:55 PM
sweet. I may be able to reach 300hp with boltons then, depending on how good their tune is, but they get 220hp and 251lbs of torque without any other mods so it's promising.
I honestly dont think you will be able to reach 300hp with the stock supercharger. with all the mods I did to my car (when it was supercharged) the best I could do was just under 200hp to the wheels and just over 200ft lbs of torque to the wheels. so for you to reach 300 (even at the engine), you my friend have a tall order ahead of you!
zmatt
10-01-2011, 10:19 AM
what did you do to your car? all the mods on the world are no good without a good tune to take advantage of it.
SLAMMED_C
10-04-2011, 06:45 AM
what did you do to your car? all the mods on the world are no good without a good tune to take advantage of it.
Custom intake, custom supercharger inlet, custom supercharger exit, custom boost pipe, ported supercharger inlet, supersprint header, custom 2.5" SS exhaust system with high flow cat and eisenmann race muffler. and the custom upsolute tune.
next thing I would have done would have been cams, larger intercooler but I decided to go turbo instead.
I agree, a tune is very important.
other things you can do, head work- port and polish, enlargen displacement to 2.6L, balance and blueprint, but these are big money items. I'm not saying you cant do it, but it will be difficult to do and be very expensive as well.
zmatt
10-04-2011, 08:58 AM
how were you going to get 2.6L? Is there a longer stroke crank we can pull from another engine or where you going to overbore? Also, any idea how much power you were making? If I am at all overly optimistic on my numbers, by all means bring it back down to earth.
SLAMMED_C
10-04-2011, 10:16 AM
how were you going to get 2.6L? Is there a longer stroke crank we can pull from another engine or where you going to overbore? Also, any idea how much power you were making? If I am at all overly optimistic on my numbers, by all means bring it back down to earth.
Overbore. I was making almost 200hp to the wheels and just over 200ft lbs of torque.
I had a buddt that had a 2002 C230K coupe (w203) with the same engine as us, well the slightly newer version (different supercharger, 4 individual coils...) he sent his engine to brabus, they did a balance and blueprint, stroked the engine to 2.6L, port matching, port and polished the head, custom supercharger (crank) pulley, custom brabus cams.. he was putting down 278hp to th wheels.. that car flew it was so fast! but that brabus conversion was also like $30,000!!
your numbers arent rediculous.. they are just difficult to attain. you will not do it with the stock charger I will tell you that much.
zmatt
10-04-2011, 11:29 AM
Oh no way. I was debating whether to get an m90 or turbo. The m90 is only slightly larger in dimensions but much more powerful than the M45 so putting one in shouldn't be hard. But i dunno if its too much blower. Any idea how parasitic an m90 is? I think that getting a bigger blower is easier fab wise than going turbo. less to mess with.
SLAMMED_C
10-05-2011, 06:39 AM
Oh no way. I was debating whether to get an m90 or turbo. The m90 is only slightly larger in dimensions but much more powerful than the M45 so putting one in shouldn't be hard. But i dunno if its too much blower. Any idea how parasitic an m90 is? I think that getting a bigger blower is easier fab wise than going turbo. less to mess with.
M90 might be good, but as for the parasitic loss.. I have no idea. i wouldnt think it would be too much worse than the stock m45. a supercharger would be much easier and cheaper to fab up for sure. but in the end will you get the results you want? that is the question.
you may be better off going with a vortech style charger. there are lots or supercharger options.
at one point i had thought about swapping out my charger for the newer style m111 clutchless supercharger, I had also looked into a vortech as well. but in the end turbo was the way to go for me.
zmatt
10-06-2011, 10:53 AM
I like turbos a lot, I'm just looking at bang for buck. Aren't vortechs pretty expensive? The cool thing about the eatons are they are very common on oem so I can get a gen V M90 for $400 rebuilt which is really cheap for a good compressor regardless of what kind it is.
zmatt
10-06-2011, 08:59 PM
Actually, I did a little research and you can get some vortech blowers for around the 5-$600 mark on ebay used which is pretty good. none are the V3 model, so you would have to run oil lines but they are much better in terms of size, cfm, boost and efficiency compared to a roots blower. They also sound more like turbos which can be a good thing depending on how you feel.
SLAMMED_C
10-07-2011, 11:04 AM
I like turbos a lot, I'm just looking at bang for buck. Aren't vortechs pretty expensive? The cool thing about the eatons are they are very common on oem so I can get a gen V M90 for $400 rebuilt which is really cheap for a good compressor regardless of what kind it is.
Actually, I did a little research and you can get some vortech blowers for around the 5-$600 mark on ebay used which is pretty good. none are the V3 model, so you would have to run oil lines but they are much better in terms of size, cfm, boost and efficiency compared to a roots blower. They also sound more like turbos which can be a good thing depending on how you feel.
I think the Vortech unit will be the better choice if you dont want to go the route of the turbo.
I still think that in the long run, a turbo will be so much better. but a custom vortech install can be pretty fun too.
If I had stayed supercharged, I would have done a vortech unit.
if you do a vortech, you will have to ditch the stock chargers obviously.. and make a custom bracket to mount it with. also you will need to get rid of the stock diverter valve.. and then you can mount a nice BOV! and either have the ME coded for no supercharger (if it can be done), or remove the bulb in the cluster!
zmatt
10-07-2011, 12:16 PM
I'll have to see what upsolute thinks when i get to that point lol. Pagz said you have to have the diverted with the stock ecu, but they may be able to fix that. I don't see why they couldn't. One big thing is I would have to have it tapped for oil lines because vortech blowers are lubed like turbos. But Both you and Pagz have done that so I know where to tap it.
SLAMMED_C
10-07-2011, 12:59 PM
I'll have to see what upsolute thinks when i get to that point lol. Pagz said you have to have the diverted with the stock ecu, but they may be able to fix that. I don't see why they couldn't. One big thing is I would have to have it tapped for oil lines because vortech blowers are lubed like turbos. But Both you and Pagz have done that so I know where to tap it.
If upsolute cant do the tune, then you can go piggy back.. add in an AEM unit or something to control fuel and spark. I have a AEM FIC-6 that I am going to be selling (since I decided to go stand alone instead of piggy back).
I'm pretty sure you could get rid of the stock diverter valve and use either an aftermarket diverter or a BOV instead. did he say why?
if the supercharger clutcha nd diverter can be coded out of the ECU you will be laughing.
thats super easy to get a feed for oil supply.. no issues there.
zmatt
10-07-2011, 01:14 PM
He said ti was because the stock map would throw a hissy fit. My programming experience tells me that removing that bit should be trivial though. Also, i didn't know aem piggybacks could work with our ECUs. It seems there is a rgeat deal of ignorance in the tuning community regarding MBZ. I was told you would have to rip out everything and do a standalone because MBZ stuff is untuneable, now upsolute says they can do all sorts of stuff with the stock ecu and you say AEM piggybacks work fine. I guess its true you can't believe everything you hear.
Wouldnt have picked the vortech to be a good match with a small displacement engine as there more aimed at upper rpm breathing,you want as much torque down low especially in the heavier 202 otherwise its just no fun.
I dont think you have much choice but to go piggyback with the pita auto trans. If your really serious about doing a conversion I would obtain all the workshop information about the TCU,ECU,ASR etc etc and sit down with tuners to discuss a way around it.
C43?
zmatt
10-07-2011, 05:01 PM
A C43 would be cheaper, but the funny thing about American insurance, now way in hell could I afford the insurance, but mt rates don't change if I tune a regular 202. I pay about 2 grand a year for the 230, the AMG would be easily twice that, maybe more.
Point is, given the price difference, the maintenance difference and the insurance price, it's cheaper for me to tune a 230. Sad but true, cause I have driven AMGs and I love em.
How intrusive is the tcu? how much does it talk to the ecu or do you know? If it isn't that intrusive I should probably be able to survive. A manual swap would be baller though. The local tuners seem to think it isn't a big deal, in their experience most tcus don't fudge with things too much.
on the vortech, good point, but it flows twice what the m90 flows at full tilt, so if I run lower boost then it should be plenty and I wont be stressing things. You run 15psi on stock internals right? Granted I know its an oversimplification with flowcharts and whatnot, but they have different sized blowers for this reason. Again, its only an option and an interesting. but vortech does do kits for small displacement imports, so i don't think it will be an issue.
SLAMMED_C
10-24-2011, 09:26 PM
A few updated pics..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0089.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0091.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0093.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0096.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0103.jpg
worked on my interior trim too.. test fitted all the pieces. need to make a filler piece for just under where i mounted the HKS boost controller.
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0110.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0119.jpg
did an exhaust test fit, needs to be tweaked slightly.
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0125.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0126.jpg
Good to see Progress dude!!
Exhaust is such a pain to get spot on,you can tack it perfect but it still moves when welded!. Nice install on the dash and boost control!!!...lol seat under car pretty tight in there huh^^
Once you go stand alone might like to put a ribbed coupler on top of the IC to prevent stress accross the IC,TB and plenum...even with V8 mounts the engine moves a bit with all the extra hp^^.
how much left to do before fire-up?
zmatt
10-25-2011, 09:24 PM
that engine is beautiful dude.
SLAMMED_C
10-26-2011, 06:49 AM
Good to see Progress dude!!
Exhaust is such a pain to get spot on,you can tack it perfect but it still moves when welded!. Nice install on the dash and boost control!!!...lol seat under car pretty tight in there huh^^
Once you go stand alone might like to put a ribbed coupler on top of the IC to prevent stress accross the IC,TB and plenum...even with V8 mounts the engine moves a bit with all the extra hp^^.
how much left to do before fire-up?
youre telling me! I'll have to leave the tips off and correct the fitment of the exhaust with a torch! bend the hangers to center the muffler in the opening of the bumper.
need to remove the skull trim and clear it all first.. but I just wanted to see how it would look! ha ha.. ya no where else to put things.. so gotta put things where there is space! passenger seat is still sitt in the car (across the back seat) so I can pull out the carpets and fab up the racing seat bracket!
sounds like a good idea.. wont need the MAS when I go stand alone so the ribbed coupler might look nicer. I'll have to source out some v8 mounts, were your v8 mounts from a C43?
honestly.. I need my fuel rail gauge (but I could just cap off the fitting for now to start it up). everything else is pretty much done. need to get a boost pipe welded.. but I can start and run my car with out it.. just to make sure there are no leaks and bleed out the cooling system.
do you remember what spring is in the wastegate?
that engine is beautiful dude.
Thanks.. a bit of show and go under the hood!
Logic
10-26-2011, 08:59 AM
how much longer before take off ?
SD202
10-26-2011, 10:12 AM
looking good !!!!
zmatt
10-26-2011, 11:19 AM
Hey nothing wrong with show when you have a power potato sitting there.
SLAMMED_C
10-26-2011, 04:53 PM
how much longer before take off ?
Hope not too long.. if I can get the fuel pressure gauge in the mail I can start it up, if not I will block off the port and start it up. at least bleed out the cooling system. and let the engine warm up. at least this way I can see if there are any leaks (fingers crossed no leaks!)
Logic
10-26-2011, 05:05 PM
you better have the video of it as this happens :D
SLAMMED_C
10-27-2011, 02:49 PM
you better have the video of it as this happens :D
No worries, camera will be rolling for the ominous occasion!
hopefully saturday will be the day!
600whp s4
10-29-2011, 10:00 AM
just put a e55 motor with a blower in it
SLAMMED_C
11-06-2011, 09:29 PM
Well.. I started it up over the weekend! it does run, however I have a few issues.
1. oil leak at engine somewhere.. looks like possibly from the crank seal or the oil pan.. need to inspect further.
2. no throttle response at all (I am using an M112 throttle body), so I think the input signals might be on different wires compared to an M111 throttle body, just a matter of swapping pins around possibly.
3. noise from the engine- can't pinpoint it at this time.. but it is a very weird metallic noise.
4. Engine fan running continuously (did a custom swap from viscous fan to full electric suction fan.
but it is exciting.. after 2 years of being parked.. it does still run!
The Vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FL5-wfbTcZM&feature=player_detailpage
zmatt
11-07-2011, 07:30 AM
F'n A dude congrats.
SD202
11-07-2011, 08:38 AM
Its alive !!!!!!!!! Very nice. im sure you'll get all the hiccups worked out eventually.
OMG finally =D I did see this yesturday but had no sound,got up especially early this morning so i could hear it on my home PC^^.
So the metalic sound is the high pitch frequency you can here in the vid?,almost sounds like a whistle?( TB whistle sounds coming out through IC?)
The engine will sound alot different with the alloy intake plenum,the overlap noise tends to resonate out of it in a metalic sound.
Also the turbo BB cartridge will be louder than a journal bearing setup,its normal,so it will sound metalic especially so if you have intake and outlet off it.
If the sound is metal on metal check the downpipe and bypass piping is not touching somwhere,check the v-bands are well alighned.
Recheck the header to head shortly,but i think you used lock tight ont he studs right? so should be all ok.
Awsome to see it running man!!
SLAMMED_C
11-10-2011, 08:51 PM
F'n A dude congrats.
Thank you, Thank you!
Its alive !!!!!!!!! Very nice. im sure you'll get all the hiccups worked out eventually.
Hopefully get a chance to work on some of the issues this weekend and get them sorted out.
OMG finally =D I did see this yesturday but had no sound,got up especially early this morning so i could hear it on my home PC^^.
So the metalic sound is the high pitch frequency you can here in the vid?,almost sounds like a whistle?( TB whistle sounds coming out through IC?)
The engine will sound alot different with the alloy intake plenum,the overlap noise tends to resonate out of it in a metalic sound.
Also the turbo BB cartridge will be louder than a journal bearing setup,its normal,so it will sound metalic especially so if you have intake and outlet off it.
If the sound is metal on metal check the downpipe and bypass piping is not touching somwhere,check the v-bands are well alighned.
Recheck the header to head shortly,but i think you used lock tight ont he studs right? so should be all ok.
Awsome to see it running man!!
Yo Paul! yes the metallic high pitch noise Im hearing is the one that concerns me.. do you think that with all the boost pipes in place the noise could go away? of be muffled more?
I'll have to see if there is anything touching anywhere.. also take the belt off and see if it is maybe resonating from the front of the engine at all.
umm... no! I didnt use any locktite from what I remember! its been so long! I'll have to recheck all the bolts on the header.
it is a great feeling to actually have it start u and run! just gotta figure out the hiccups now. hopefully it will run smoother on saturday after I get a chance to look at a few things.
SLAMMED_C
11-13-2011, 09:25 PM
got the oil leak fixed, was the crankshaft pulley seal at the front cover.. put a new one in and no leaks.
still issues with the throttle body. have to check out a wiring diagram again. but seems that there is only one difference between the stock M111 throttle body and a M112 (w210) throttle body.. the power feed seems to be reversed on the M112. have to check it out further though. current code in ME for the throttle body and i cant perform an adaptation of the M112 throttle body, fails the learning of the throttle stops.
the metallic noise I am hearing sounds more like a resonance than anything else now.. and it sounds like it is coming from inside the intake manifold. I hope with all the boost pipes in place it is muffled or goes away!
Oh and another issue I have noticed.. My front calipers hit the sway bar end bushings where it attaches to the lower control arm.. need to cut the brackets off, relocate them about 3" closer to the inside of the vehicle and then cut about 3" off of the end of the sway bar.
right now I turn the steering wheel about 1/4-1/2 turn and it catches on the sway bar bushing mount (bolt for the cup of the bushing). other option is a custom bracket to move the caliper up a bit.. but I think modifying the sway bar would be easier. sigh.. more issues to sort out!!
Logic
11-18-2011, 02:33 PM
its about time you got that running..... now lets get some wheels on and take it to it :)
Good thing it was only the crank seal!
The intake plenum will sound metalic as pulses bounce around inside it ...it shouldnt be overly loud though!=)
The snow ball effect of heavy modding^^ feels good to be taking a break at the moment xD,still searching daily though.
Chopping the bar shorter and mounting further up the arm will effect the torsion i would think,but not sure just how much seeing as your increasing leverage while effectivley increasing swaybar stiffness? hmm.
Did you sort the issue with the TB?
Sulaco
11-29-2011, 07:53 PM
I must say I get alot of joy from reading this thread.
Good work, man. Glad to see people fighting the good fight for the w202!
Though on the topic of insurance with an amg, I saw no change going from my 1994 c280 to my c43. With my wife and myself, full coverage on the 94 e320 and c43, we pay $120/mo. Is that high?
zmatt
11-29-2011, 08:49 PM
I don't think so, but you are speaking to a guy who is graduating form college in May and is starting his own business (in this economy too!) Insurance is supposed to go down soon. I have managed to have no infractions or wrecks knock on wood so that helps, but I'm still a young man so my premiums are pretty high. I'm just glad I don't live in Europe.
I dunno about the rest of the world, but in America the insurance companies don't seem to care about modifications so you pay less insurance wise for taking a normal Mercedes and swapping an AMG motor in than having a real AMG.....crazy I know but that's how the world works.
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0856.jpg
where did you get the steering wheel?(was it SLK?)
Not to much gets me excited these days ....but that cluster and steering wheel.. haha.
zmatt
11-30-2011, 08:07 PM
I agree that looks pretty awesome. The engine, the gauges, this car is just badass all around.
SLAMMED_C
12-02-2011, 07:48 PM
its about time you got that running..... now lets get some wheels on and take it to it :)
wheels wont be on for a while.. still some bugs to figure out.
Good thing it was only the crank seal!
The intake plenum will sound metalic as pulses bounce around inside it ...it shouldnt be overly loud though!=)
The snow ball effect of heavy modding^^ feels good to be taking a break at the moment xD,still searching daily though.
Chopping the bar shorter and mounting further up the arm will effect the torsion i would think,but not sure just how much seeing as your increasing leverage while effectivley increasing swaybar stiffness? hmm.
Did you sort the issue with the TB?
yes Im glad it was only the crank seal as well.. but not surprising as it has sat around for 2 years and not started at all.
we shall see how it sounds once the all the pipes are in place, hopefully it is muffled a bit. if not I will have to live with it!
oh I know.. always one problem after the other when custom parts are installed. still havent found a good donor car? anything coming up lately?
I dont know how it will effect the sway bar if at all.. but its my easiest option other than a custom bracket for the caliper.. and I think that would be more expensive than just lopping off the mounts and welding them in place closer to the body! be a task cutting my Eibach sway bar though!
I must say I get alot of joy from reading this thread.
Good work, man. Glad to see people fighting the good fight for the w202!
Though on the topic of insurance with an amg, I saw no change going from my 1994 c280 to my c43. With my wife and myself, full coverage on the 94 e320 and c43, we pay $120/mo. Is that high?
haha.. I know.. the w202 body is the best one to mod for some good fun! thats pretty cheap insurance you have.
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0856.jpg
where did you get the steering wheel?(was it SLK?)
Not to much gets me excited these days ....but that cluster and steering wheel.. haha.
The steering wheel is based off a w210 wheel.. I go tit off of ebay from DTC (i think!) they make some kick ass wheels. y it was a mod I had to do.. so sweet!!
I agree that looks pretty awesome. The engine, the gauges, this car is just badass all around.
Thanks bro. hope to have it running right soon.
havent been working on it lately.. will hopefully do some things this week.
but this is what I just got done today...
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/384649_10150431668704451_503044450_8050260_2015971 104_n.jpg
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/379510_10150431667424451_503044450_8050248_1320185 230_n.jpg
yes Im glad it was only the crank seal as well.. but not surprising as it has sat around for 2 years and not started at all.
we shall see how it sounds once the all the pipes are in place, hopefully it is muffled a bit. if not I will have to live with it!
oh I know.. always one problem after the other when custom parts are installed. still havent found a good donor car? anything coming up lately?
I dont know how it will effect the sway bar if at all.. but its my easiest option other than a custom bracket for the caliper.. and I think that would be more expensive than just lopping off the mounts and welding them in place closer to the body! be a task cutting my Eibach sway bar though!
Guess thats how you'll look in your grave??^^ ha ha
Hmmm i reckon you should shift the caliper away(upwards i guess),you could maybe draw up an offset braket and drop it to a machinest im sure they will sort you out?.
Yeh iv come across 4 potential candidates in the last year now iv been looking,took another one for a spin today (this to be exact:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=431674094 ) they go pretty hard tbh,would feel a bit bad pulling apart a nice example like this one tho haha, probly should have just bought this 2000 C43 with 86km's last month which sold just under 20k.(was a non-tip though)
Still playng with the idea of a manual M104 ITB's/extractors + Stand alone...but hard to convince myself over the M113+auto
Anything new on the project??
Sulaco
12-18-2011, 05:09 AM
20k for a 2000 c43? Must be the exchange rate I'm missing, because that same c43 would only be like 8k here.
Yip, Exchange rate + shipping + registration + Tax is about 18 - 20 k if I were to import from Europe or USA.
zmatt
12-18-2011, 02:09 PM
that noise is the sound of your bank account draining.
off topic.......what is the price of an R30 skyline in your area in good shape?
Im just being much more careful about how it drains these days =D
R30's are not that expensive,neither are R32 gtr's,33/34 are still up there.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/SearchResults.aspx?&searchType=0001-&searchString=r30+skyline&x=0&y=0&searchregion=100&type=Search&sort_order=&redirectFromAll=True&generalSearch_keypresses=5&generalSearch_suggested=11
SLAMMED_C
12-18-2011, 09:22 PM
Guess thats how you'll look in your grave??^^ ha ha
Hmmm i reckon you should shift the caliper away(upwards i guess),you could maybe draw up an offset braket and drop it to a machinest im sure they will sort you out?.
Yeh iv come across 4 potential candidates in the last year now iv been looking,took another one for a spin today (this to be exact:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=431674094 ) they go pretty hard tbh,would feel a bit bad pulling apart a nice example like this one tho haha, probly should have just bought this 2000 C43 with 86km's last month which sold just under 20k.(was a non-tip though)
Still playng with the idea of a manual M104 ITB's/extractors + Stand alone...but hard to convince myself over the M113+auto
Anything new on the project??
lol.. Im pretty sure I'll still have my mohawk when Im in my grave.. so its a look into the future!!
I'll look into it and see what kind of costs I'm into for a custom bracket, the sway bar shortening will be the cheaper route to go for sure.. but moving the caliper will be more professional I think. not give it the diy hack it up look!
hopefully a set of custom brackets wont be too much. have to take a caliper bracket off or do up a quick drawing of what I need.
That looks like a clean CLK55 Paul.. but a bit on the high side price wise no? I bet it pulls they are decent cars! pretty quick. C43 seemed like a good deal.. but what kind of condition? I'm sure another will come along.. you just gotta wait for it.
I like the idea of an M104 with either single turbo or twins! and then the individual throttle bodies would just be such a nice touch on top of that! always liked the look of individual throttle bodies... oh and yes a manual for sure. it depends on what you'll be using the car for.. if its a daily driver its probably not good to do all those things (especially the manual with the M104 and ITB).. you more want something you can get into and just easily drive with an auto and the M113 (still fun with the V8 though).. but its its more of a weekend fun car.. then I'd be aboard the M104 train! Maybe C36 M104 or even just the 3.2L M104.. they are pretty peppy too.
no not much really new.. havent done much work. got the second set of racing seat brackets mocked up, just need to put them in my car and test fit the racing seat on the bracket to get position of the holes for the seat bolts.
I also bought another M112 Throttle body cause I think the one I have got fried when I had the pcv port welded shut. so need to test that on the car. hopefully that will fix my lack of throttle response issue!
I got some more vacuum line to run from the BOV to the intake manifold, I also got my 600cc injectors.. need to test fit those.
lots of other stuff still to complete.. but not too worried about things at this point.. hopefully get most of it done over the winter so I will be ready for the spring time! and a bunch of track days!
zmatt
12-18-2011, 09:57 PM
Im just being much more careful about how it drains these days =D
R30's are not that expensive,neither are R32 gtr's,33/34 are still up there.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/SearchResults.aspx?&searchType=0001-&searchString=r30+skyline&x=0&y=0&searchregion=100&type=Search&sort_order=&redirectFromAll=True&generalSearch_keypresses=5&generalSearch_suggested=11
Ah can't get R32s in the USA yet. stupid import laws. They used to let you but the feds went around and impounded a bunch of skylines last year including Paul Walker's.
Merry Xmas dude! hopfully santa brought some custom caliper brackets and finished of all the other outstanding mods? ....ha ha.
Yeh still considering the CLK55 complete system,really its the direction i want to take it,if I stick with M104 than it would have to be n/a with a manual trans,otherwise the trans wouldnt handle. the V6 gearbox($350nzd) i bought is still in europe,i got it packaged up and put on a pallet for shipping but never got back to the guy,mainly because i think the 5.4 will destroy it and the guys in US who could help with retuning the ecu to work with manual(have done it before) didnt seem to want to only flash the ecu for me,rather just give me a price of 20kUS to install the lot and tell me the gearbox is not recommended... lol.
that C43 wasnt very tidy,but if one come along before i can find a reasonable 55 than ill just go with that and make headers,reuse my exhaust etc...but it gonna be hard because no one seems to look after these cars!!.
Ohh yeh dont weld alloy with anything attached to it...you will fry it for sure^^.
Did you get split spray injectors? I should have chucked in that other fuel rail with the last box i sent you just incase you ever need it for using 560cc evo injectors,that is if you end up running low impedance,anyway if you do need it i'll just send it over free.
All good these projects take time =) will be good to see if that new TB fixs your issues!!
Paul
Yeh they stopped imports of pre 95 here in about 2002...but that was after we had already imported a few thousand 32's,now they are 20 years old they can be imported as special cars so theres fricken heaps for sale. the import rules are about to change to 2005 i think.. better get my next 202 soon ha ha.
fast and the furious.......I cringed typing that^^
zmatt
12-27-2011, 11:03 AM
Gotcha, its annoying working around the import laws. Because of them we can only bring in an sell stuff that's at least 25 years old or more which doesn't do me any good. it sucks to tell someone that you can;t get them an s15 or R34. Nature of the beast I suppose. There is still a demand for classic stuff and a lot of ended up in your back yard. If I ever have to go to NZ to get some cars I may have to drop by and buy you a pint.
SLAMMED_C
12-27-2011, 03:56 PM
Merry Xmas dude! hopfully santa brought some custom caliper brackets and finished of all the other outstanding mods? ....ha ha.
Yeh still considering the CLK55 complete system,really its the direction i want to take it,if I stick with M104 than it would have to be n/a with a manual trans,otherwise the trans wouldnt handle. the V6 gearbox($350nzd) i bought is still in europe,i got it packaged up and put on a pallet for shipping but never got back to the guy,mainly because i think the 5.4 will destroy it and the guys in US who could help with retuning the ecu to work with manual(have done it before) didnt seem to want to only flash the ecu for me,rather just give me a price of 20kUS to install the lot and tell me the gearbox is not recommended... lol.
that C43 wasnt very tidy,but if one come along before i can find a reasonable 55 than ill just go with that and make headers,reuse my exhaust etc...but it gonna be hard because no one seems to look after these cars!!.
Ohh yeh dont weld alloy with anything attached to it...you will fry it for sure^^.
Did you get split spray injectors? I should have chucked in that other fuel rail with the last box i sent you just incase you ever need it for using 560cc evo injectors,that is if you end up running low impedance,anyway if you do need it i'll just send it over free.
All good these projects take time =) will be good to see if that new TB fixs your issues!!
Paul
Merry Christmas Paul! santa bring you anything good?
haha no santa didnt bring me any caliper brackets or finish off the other parts!
I did drop off some alloy bits to be welded just before christmas, gotta call the guy tomorrow and pick them up. as for the caliper brackets.. I need to remove the caliper and have a look at them. hopefully do that soon. its been pretty mild over here considering its winter.. temps still between 2-6 degrees celsius! warm for this time of year. and amazingly no snow on christmas. today however we are getting dumped with snow. but hopefully the temps stay above zero and it doesnt stick!
I had a chance today to try the new throttle body on my car.. still not working.. buuuuut it wants to work.. you press on the gas pedal and it wants to move.. it just doesnt move much.. you can hear the idle go up very slightly when you press the gas and them go back down again when you release it. so I'm onto something.. it did absolutely nothing before. I think I need to go back to wiring and check that out.
plumbed my BOV vacuum line.. so one more thing complete there. removed the wood trim again.. need to clear coat it all. reinstalled the original climate control (black face gauges) going back to that.. so my white face gauge climate control is up for sale if anyone is interested (1999 only I believe). I think the black face will suit the new wood trim better.
test fit my sat brackets (for the passenger seat).. so far seems okay. have to sit the race seat on the bracket and mark for the holes to mount the seat to the bracket. have to redo a bracket on the drivers side as I welded the seat belt buckle bracket on the wrong side of the bracket. so have to cut the welds and reweld it on the opposite side! ooooops!
otherwise not much new on the car.
I like the idea of an M104 N/A as well.. with the ITB and a nice long tube header.. I think it will go pretty well! but I'm just hooked on boost right now.. so an M104 boosted would be tits!
would you put the v6 trans on the M113 block? can the trans support the 55 power?! so you've still got the trans sitting on a pallet in europe?! hopefully he hasnt sold it on you!
hmm.. ya I think the 5.4 will destroy the v6 trans as well! Im not even sure if my M111 manual trans will survive the power I want to put through it. but I will only know for sure by putting it in and then slowly raising the boost. I guess the other route is going with a trans that can handle the power and a custom bell housing adapter. but could cost some $$$ maybe.
too bad the C43 wasnt clean. seems like most of the ones you find arent very clean. I guess as long as the engine seems to be decent it doesnt matter too much about the rest of the car if you are transferring everything to your w202. but it would be nice to have a clean car to go with the engine. just for spare parts.
ya! seems like ive found that out already.. do not weld aluminum with electronics inside it!
I did get the injectors.. they are 600cc. hopefully they work. wont need them for a little bit though. but I hope they do work okay. no worries Paul.. if I do need it we can work out something. I think I should be okay though. but at some point I will test fit the 600cc's to see how they fit.
Ross
SLAMMED_C
02-15-2012, 09:00 AM
Not much new on this end. havent had a chance to work on my car much the past little bit. tried to last weekend but it was -12 outside.. so got frozen fast! hopefully in the next couple weeks I'll get back at it. we've had some odd weather lately,.. -2 to -8 and snowy one day, then plus 2 out the next! odd winter. but I like how mild its been.
I did have a chance to fit my boost pipe (picked it up from the welder a few weeks back) so it is now mounted from the turbo exit to the intercooler. have to snap some pics of it. and im glad to say that metallic noise is gone with the boost pipe in place.
I'm still having an issue with the throttle body.. not actuating still. I connected my das and checked out some values.. it seems my potentiometer values in the throttle body are ready correctly.. the values were reversed to what they were supposed to be.. so Im maybe thinking my wiring got messed up when I modifed my harness..
a question I have for the w202 kompressor guys is can you check what colour wire goes into what pin on the thrttle body plug? the wiring diagrams are no help as they dont list the correct pin locations in the plug.. the numbers donw match up. Id really appreciate it if someone was able to check that for me. once I get that sorted out I think my throttle issues will be no more.
I need to remove my front calipers (so I can get new brackets custom machined), I was going to remove them last weekend but it was just too cold outside.
that should be an easy task at a good machine shop.
not much else to report on rght now.. not a whole lot left to do to get the car mobile. intercooler needs to be filled with coolant and bled out. save that for a warmer day though. the check list is getting smaller.
it looks like I'll be good for this year... I just want to drive this car so bad!!
zmatt
02-16-2012, 10:55 AM
hey slammed, I tried looking up DTC, but no dice, mind pointing my in the right direction for those steering wheels?
SLAMMED_C
02-20-2012, 01:04 PM
hey slammed, I tried looking up DTC, but no dice, mind pointing my in the right direction for those steering wheels?
They used to have an bay site.. cant seem to find it. but I found their own website.. http://www.dctms.com/product_ST_Mercedes_W210.html
it is actually a W21o steering wheel as I have the multifunction steering wheel upgrade in my w202.
Gotcha, its annoying working around the import laws. Because of them we can only bring in an sell stuff that's at least 25 years old or more which doesn't do me any good. it sucks to tell someone that you can;t get them an s15 or R34. Nature of the beast I suppose. There is still a demand for classic stuff and a lot of ended up in your back yard. If I ever have to go to NZ to get some cars I may have to drop by and buy you a pint.
Yeh sure anytime man!,things have just to post 2005 here now,so no more 202's at all...or much of anything interesting actually!!...prices of used cars will rise...along with emissions!,until they end up routinly testing for emissions people are going to hold onto second hand cars.
Not much new on this end. havent had a chance to work on my car much the past little bit. tried to last weekend but it was -12 outside.. so got frozen fast! hopefully in the next couple weeks I'll get back at it. we've had some odd weather lately,.. -2 to -8 and snowy one day, then plus 2 out the next! odd winter. but I like how mild its been.
I did have a chance to fit my boost pipe (picked it up from the welder a few weeks back) so it is now mounted from the turbo exit to the intercooler. have to snap some pics of it. and im glad to say that metallic noise is gone with the boost pipe in place.
I'm still having an issue with the throttle body.. not actuating still. I connected my das and checked out some values.. it seems my potentiometer values in the throttle body are ready correctly.. the values were reversed to what they were supposed to be.. so Im maybe thinking my wiring got messed up when I modifed my harness..
a question I have for the w202 kompressor guys is can you check what colour wire goes into what pin on the thrttle body plug? the wiring diagrams are no help as they dont list the correct pin locations in the plug.. the numbers donw match up. Id really appreciate it if someone was able to check that for me. once I get that sorted out I think my throttle issues will be no more.
I need to remove my front calipers (so I can get new brackets custom machined), I was going to remove them last weekend but it was just too cold outside.
that should be an easy task at a good machine shop.
not much else to report on rght now.. not a whole lot left to do to get the car mobile. intercooler needs to be filled with coolant and bled out. save that for a warmer day though. the check list is getting smaller.
it looks like I'll be good for this year... I just want to drive this car so bad!!
Yo!
Hmmm thats just a tad cold haha,I'll have to forgive you for lack of progress^^
I think i ave my original plug that went into my DBW TB,is that of any help?
Hmm your car is 99,didnt all post 98(and some 97) have the digital climate control?...can you easily change between the two types or does the digital one require some sort of additional control modual?
Good to here things are still moving and the metalic noise was just resonating sound from the charge pipes!!
SLAMMED_C
02-27-2012, 08:43 AM
Yo!
Hmmm thats just a tad cold haha,I'll have to forgive you for lack of progress^^
I think i ave my original plug that went into my DBW TB,is that of any help?
Hmm your car is 99,didnt all post 98(and some 97) have the digital climate control?...can you easily change between the two types or does the digital one require some sort of additional control modual?
Good to here things are still moving and the metalic noise was just resonating sound from the charge pipes!!
ha ha thanks!! tried to work on my car again this weekend.. again it was cold.. minus 2, but with the wind it felt like minus 10! so after a couple hours of doing some wiring (running dedicated fused lines from my fuse box to my boost controller and my a/f gauge) I packed up and left. I just need it to warm up a little bit!
Yes that may help heaps if the wires are still in the plug!! if you can dig it out and let me know Id really appreciate it Paul.
no.. for some reason the kompressor cars (any Ive seen here, the 1999 ones) have the manual climate control with the 2 dials.. I think it would be way too much work to try and fit a digital one in there.
I know.. I'm glad the metallic noise is gone too! slowly getting there.. 3 major things to get done.. my throttle issue, fill my intercooler circuit and test it, brake caliper bracket. once thats done the remaining things sound be pretty simple.
keep everyone posted.
SD202
02-27-2012, 09:05 AM
ha ha thanks!! tried to work on my car again this weekend.. again it was cold.. minus 2, but with the wind it felt like minus 10! so after a couple hours of doing some wiring (running dedicated fused lines from my fuse box to my boost controller and my a/f gauge) I packed up and left. I just need it to warm up a little bit!
Yes that may help heaps if the wires are still in the plug!! if you can dig it out and let me know Id really appreciate it Paul.
no.. for some reason the kompressor cars (any Ive seen here, the 1999 ones) have the manual climate control with the 2 dials.. I think it would be way too much work to try and fit a digital one in there.
I know.. I'm glad the metallic noise is gone too! slowly getting there.. 3 major things to get done.. my throttle issue, fill my intercooler circuit and test it, brake caliper bracket. once thats done the remaining things sound be pretty simple.
keep everyone posted.
-10 !!! holy moly and i thought it was bad down here in SoCal where everyone is complaining about it being 40 degrees at night. People complain about not being able to go out for a smoke without having to put on a sweater first HAHA I couldnt imagine -10 much less working on my car in that weather !
SLAMMED_C
03-05-2012, 06:44 AM
sooooo... I've got some good news. I figured out my throttle body issue. I had 4 wires backwards, ened up figuring it out after playing around with it for a couple hours. I also found a broken wire, this might be from be continuously removing pins and putting them back in. so I've decided to make a new harness for the throttle body, its only 6 wires and I can run them pretty easily from the fuse box at the fuel computer. I got the car to idle correctly and it actually reved up when I hit the gas! sorry no vid yet though as a wire broke and I had to just leave it for now. getting a new throttle body connector this week and I'll make up the harness. other problem now is it was running lean and it kind of sputtered when I reved it. so have to look at the fuel pressure regulator, adjust the fuel pressure possibly. another thing to figure out
I finally removed my front calipers too, need to find a machine shop to fab up a set of caliper brackets for me to pivot the caliper higher up to clear the sway bar.
a/f ratio gauge and the boost pressure gauge work, and also the boost controller works.. need to set it up though. have some reading to do!
hope to get back working on her is a couple weeks, get some more things done in between then and get some vids up of her running right!
dokotela
03-05-2012, 10:22 AM
ross, that is excellent news. i've been following the goings on, or lack of it(lol), for too long. need to get that car running now. just got back from abroad and looking to complete my car as well. good luck with the rest of it. fingers crossed buddy. also looking forward to seeing what u gonna do with those caliper brackets. post pics as u go along
SLAMMED_C
03-08-2012, 08:47 PM
ross, that is excellent news. i've been following the goings on, or lack of it(lol), for too long. need to get that car running now. just got back from abroad and looking to complete my car as well. good luck with the rest of it. fingers crossed buddy. also looking forward to seeing what u gonna do with those caliper brackets. post pics as u go along
haha.. well it is coming to the end.. its been a long road but I can really see some light at the end of this tunnel!
I will keep everyone posted about the brake caliper brackets.
in the mean time here is my wood trim.. basically its done. I have one more piece to clear, but these are the main bits.. pics dont really show how good it looks.. but hopefully you can see it a bit.
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0188.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0189.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0190.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0191.jpg
Nine Four One
03-09-2012, 02:34 AM
So effing sick.....epic build man
sooooo... I've got some good news. I figured out my throttle body issue. I had 4 wires backwards, ened up figuring it out after playing around with it for a couple hours. I also found a broken wire, this might be from be continuously removing pins and putting them back in. so I've decided to make a new harness for the throttle body, its only 6 wires and I can run them pretty easily from the fuse box at the fuel computer. I got the car to idle correctly and it actually reved up when I hit the gas! sorry no vid yet though as a wire broke and I had to just leave it for now. getting a new throttle body connector this week and I'll make up the harness. other problem now is it was running lean and it kind of sputtered when I reved it. so have to look at the fuel pressure regulator, adjust the fuel pressure possibly. another thing to figure out
I finally removed my front calipers too, need to find a machine shop to fab up a set of caliper brackets for me to pivot the caliper higher up to clear the sway bar.
a/f ratio gauge and the boost pressure gauge work, and also the boost controller works.. need to set it up though. have some reading to do!
hope to get back working on her is a couple weeks, get some more things done in between then and get some vids up of her running right!
Thats awesome news!. Sorry man, I forgot to get you my plug details(work has totally consumed me) When i ran the turbo setup on stock fueling and ecu it all ran ok,was as smooth as stock,except when you had moderate load at ~6psi,then it would cut power,I assume that it knocked and the ecu cut it back. but it never had any idle or cruise problems,and WOT was fine ,but possibly only because it was in open loop.
Could your lean part be the increase in TB size,or a mismatch in TPS?. do you have to calibrate the throttle position to the ECU when installing a new TB even a direct replacement item?
The FRP should still be set at around 43psi!.
SLAMMED_C
03-11-2012, 06:08 PM
Soooo...
I'll let the vid speak for itself..
http://youtu.be/-GB8wztJIIw
I finally got everything running right. ended up setting fuel pressure around 40PSI using my 600cc injectors.. it was always running too lean (under load) with the stock injectors even with FP up to 60psi!
so the 600cc's went in and its running pretty nice so far.
need to call a fabricator up tomorrow to get these caliper brackets started.
Engine pic:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/DSC_0193.jpg
Thats awesome news!. Sorry man, I forgot to get you my plug details(work has totally consumed me) When i ran the turbo setup on stock fueling and ecu it all ran ok,was as smooth as stock,except when you had moderate load at ~6psi,then it would cut power,I assume that it knocked and the ecu cut it back. but it never had any idle or cruise problems,and WOT was fine ,but possibly only because it was in open loop.
Could your lean part be the increase in TB size,or a mismatch in TPS?. do you have to calibrate the throttle position to the ECU when installing a new TB even a direct replacement item?
The FRP should still be set at around 43psi!.
no worries Paul, I figured it out. I cant get it to run well with the stock injectors at all.. always runs too lean.
it is possible, but the intake pipe is the same diameter as it was previously, just the throttle flap is larger. with my star I have relearned the throttle stops to make it work. as far as I know there is no way to calibrate the throttle position. I would think the MAS would just be able to adapt as it is seeing the volume of air.
everything seems good at the moment though. I'll see how it runs like it is.
AWSOME!
Thats really wierd you cant run it with stock injectors?,I definitly ran on mine!...I would have thought it would have been worse with 600cc ones!? be very careful with WOT(open loop) the ecu will expect to see 280cc...it may just run really rich!
Just incase(only because i did this initially) did you disconnect the FRP vaccum to set up the pressure?...if not that could be your problem with stock injectors.
I did mine by bypassing the fuel relay and setting it up with the engine off...however im sure its just as easy to remove the vaccum and plug up the hose into the plenum while you adjust to ~43psi.
SLAMMED_C
03-14-2012, 06:40 AM
AWSOME!
Thats really wierd you cant run it with stock injectors?,I definitly ran on mine!...I would have thought it would have been worse with 600cc ones!? be very careful with WOT(open loop) the ecu will expect to see 280cc...it may just run really rich!
Just incase(only because i did this initially) did you disconnect the FRP vaccum to set up the pressure?...if not that could be your problem with stock injectors.
I did mine by bypassing the fuel relay and setting it up with the engine off...however im sure its just as easy to remove the vaccum and plug up the hose into the plenum while you adjust to ~43psi.
I know.. I dont get it either. Im always runnning at 13.8-14.7 on my a/f gauge with the stock injectors.. when I rev it up it continuously goes lean, 15-20. I tried adjusting it up to 60psi, started at 40psi.. could never get it to run rich or closer to 10-12.
so I swapped in the 600cc ones and it runs at 9.8-10, and stayes around that when I rev it up.
I set it up with the vacuum hose off and the manifold plugged. Im going to see if I can adjust the injection timing with my das. maybe help fix it. I dont mind running rich.. but its a bit too rich!
Im also gong to repl the front stock o2 sensor as well. see what happens.
dokotela
03-14-2012, 10:14 AM
brilliant, just brilliant Ross. that smile must be hard to contain i'm sure.
Hmmm, it will run very lean when there is no load(or boost) that's pretty normal!. Yeh 10 is to rich even under WOT!.
If you cannot run the stock injectors and have good idle something is wrong,maybe the fuel is too old? how long since you last refreshed it?,I used to drain mine if it was longer than 3 months,the fuel turns an off yellow colour.
I would be running the stockers until you sort the idle problem,drive it nicely to the local then run it up on a dyno and see whats going on,you really need somone loading it while they listen to knock!
SLAMMED_C
03-14-2012, 08:05 PM
brilliant, just brilliant Ross. that smile must be hard to contain i'm sure.
Its a great feeling! be even better when I'm driving.
hows your build coming Naushad?
Hmmm, it will run very lean when there is no load(or boost) that's pretty normal!. Yeh 10 is to rich even under WOT!.
If you cannot run the stock injectors and have good idle something is wrong,maybe the fuel is too old? how long since you last refreshed it?,I used to drain mine if it was longer than 3 months,the fuel turns an off yellow colour.
I would be running the stockers until you sort the idle problem,drive it nicely to the local then run it up on a dyno and see whats going on,you really need somone loading it while they listen to knock!
Really.. hmmm.. maybe I should put the stock injectors back in.
it idles great, it just always leans out when you rev it up (with stock injectors). Id be happy with around 12 at WOT!
so you think I have other issues. were you running stand alone and the stock injectors or the stock ME controlling them?
hmmm.. uuummmm.. my gas is OLD! its the same gas from like 2 years ago when I parked it! I did put fuel stabilizer in the tank when I originally parked it. but I cant see it lasting for any more than a year. so fuel might be my issue.
I guess I chuck the stockies back in and just wait till I get her back on the ground to drive it around. see what readings I get. also a dyno would be good too.
Thanks Paul.
dokotela
03-14-2012, 10:56 PM
believe me that first drive is gonna me memorable.
well i'm driving mine around from time to time. but the tuning isnt anywhere close where i would like it to be. at WOT there are no issues but at idle its very rich, so its either another tune or change the ecu for something with more tuning sites.
2yrs is a damn long time for fuel to be standing around Ross. needs to be changed a.s.a.p. i'm sure you're gonna have different results with new/fresh fuel.
dokotela
03-15-2012, 01:11 PM
http://youtu.be/vMQ2iDVlaBs
not the best of vids or camera work but you get the idea....lol
He he,I'm suprised the pump can push it to the injectors after 2 years xD does the stabilizer stop it from crystallizing?
Yep I ran the entire stock system initially at ~6psi,with only problems at part throttle moderate - heavy loading,which im pretty confident was knock control cutting power,felt like ASR cutting in.
I managed to accidentally do a WOT run at about 14psi,which didn't blow it up but i think that's why my stock pistons have a hot spot that burnt straight through all the carbon xD.
Naushad,the engine sounds awsome,congrats on getting that all running!,you should get her in for a tune if you think its running to rich you wouldn't want to wash it dry,make sure your oil doesnt smell of fuel!.
dokotela
03-16-2012, 12:47 PM
yeah Paul, i need to do another tune but i'm not convinced that the ecu is the right choice. i check the oil constantly...thanks
hopefully more vids coming soon.
MikeD
03-17-2012, 10:24 PM
http://youtu.be/vMQ2iDVlaBs
not the best of vids or camera work but you get the idea....lol
And here I thought I was the only one with that head unit... car sounds awesome!
dokotela
03-18-2012, 03:36 AM
And here I thought I was the only one with that head unit... car sounds awesome!
pioneer MVH is cool. thanks Mike.
dokotela
03-18-2012, 08:13 AM
@Paul
you know, i've just watched your video on your car, again...lol
man, the attention to detail is amazing.
take a bow man, your work is epic.
its that sort of mastery that keeps us 202'ers pursuing.
its almost like a quest for glory...lol
take a bow Paul, you deserve to more than any of us........
but damn you for setting the bar that high...lol
zmatt
03-20-2012, 07:13 PM
Nice video, car sounds beast under load. Also, there is no such thing as a better tune lol. How did you manage a 3.0L btw?
SLAMMED_C
03-20-2012, 07:43 PM
believe me that first drive is gonna me memorable.
well i'm driving mine around from time to time. but the tuning isnt anywhere close where i would like it to be. at WOT there are no issues but at idle its very rich, so its either another tune or change the ecu for something with more tuning sites.
2yrs is a damn long time for fuel to be standing around Ross. needs to be changed a.s.a.p. i'm sure you're gonna have different results with new/fresh fuel.
Well I dont doubt that my first drive in her will be memorable! I just cant wait for that day.
What ECU are you using now? I'm thinking to either us Haltech or Motec when I go stand alone.
haha.. yeh I know.. waaay too long for it to be sitting around. I put stabilizer in the fuel to keep it from going bad and I guess maybe crystalizing. fresh gas will be put in when I get around to needing to start it again. and I hope that is my only issue!
http://youtu.be/vMQ2iDVlaBs
not the best of vids or camera work but you get the idea....lol
Damn that sounds like fun! need more vids Naushad!
He he,I'm suprised the pump can push it to the injectors after 2 years xD does the stabilizer stop it from crystallizing?
Yep I ran the entire stock system initially at ~6psi,with only problems at part throttle moderate - heavy loading,which im pretty confident was knock control cutting power,felt like ASR cutting in.
I managed to accidentally do a WOT run at about 14psi,which didn't blow it up but i think that's why my stock pistons have a hot spot that burnt straight through all the carbon xD.
Naushad,the engine sounds awsome,congrats on getting that all running!,you should get her in for a tune if you think its running to rich you wouldn't want to wash it dry,make sure your oil doesnt smell of fuel!.
I will drain the fuel out and put fresh in. I hope that is my only issue with it not running richer at idle.. and I hope under boost its all good too! haha.. so far so good.. the pump is a champ! I guess it does stop the fuel from crystalizing.. and I think it somehow helps stop losing its octane rating. Im pretty sure on the bottle though it said only for use up to 1 year.. so I think im past the prime!
@Paul
you know, i've just watched your video on your car, again...lol
man, the attention to detail is amazing.
take a bow man, your work is epic.
its that sort of mastery that keeps us 202'ers pursuing.
its almost like a quest for glory...lol
take a bow Paul, you deserve to more than any of us........
but damn you for setting the bar that high...lol
Paul set the bar damn high with his car.. too high!
Nice video, car sounds beast under load. Also, there is no such thing as a better tune lol. How did you manage a 3.0L btw?
Im pretty sure its a 1JZ Supra motor in there.
@ Naushad.. Ill see what info I can get on the crank sensor for you.
dokotela
03-21-2012, 01:01 AM
@Ross
more vids to follow shortly....thats a promise
i'm using a local ecu currently, dicktator, but i was thinking of switching to apexi or aem. still doing some research...
Motec is King! Do it!
yeah paul basically made, everything we could possibly do with our cars, look retarded....lol
@zmatt
thanks man, i'm using a 2JZ motor. the 1JZ is a 2.5
NW_Merc
03-21-2012, 06:03 AM
Have you done away with the stock ecu?
zmatt
03-22-2012, 11:26 AM
@Ross
more vids to follow shortly....thats a promise
i'm using a local ecu currently, dicktator, but i was thinking of switching to apexi or aem. still doing some research...
Motec is King! Do it!
yeah paul basically made, everything we could possibly do with our cars, look retarded....lol
@zmatt
thanks man, i'm using a 2JZ motor. the 1JZ is a 2.5
lol that would explain why you have a 3.0L C230.
SD202
03-23-2012, 08:22 AM
@Ross
more vids to follow shortly....thats a promise
i'm using a local ecu currently, dicktator, but i was thinking of switching to apexi or aem. still doing some research...
Motec is King! Do it!
yeah paul basically made, everything we could possibly do with our cars, look retarded....lol
@zmatt
thanks man, i'm using a 2JZ motor. the 1JZ is a 2.5
that made my pants wet.
SpEeDy230
03-23-2012, 08:54 AM
ross!
looking good brotha! can't wait to see it all done...
zmatt
03-23-2012, 10:44 AM
Hey doko, can you start another thread with some more info on your 2jz-W202. That's a pretty cool setup you have.
Dokotela,Slammed
Thanks,looking back on the project I'm not sure weather I was slightly insane...or if i just had far to much spare time,I think there was definitely a bit of both in there ha ha.
I wish I still had that much spare time.
More videos please =).
SLAMMED_C
04-07-2012, 07:43 PM
ross!
looking good brotha! can't wait to see it all done...
Thanks speedy! its coming along.. hopefully within a month.
Dokotela,Slammed
Thanks,looking back on the project I'm not sure weather I was slightly insane...or if i just had far to much spare time,I think there was definitely a bit of both in there ha ha.
I wish I still had that much spare time.
More videos please =).
I think slightly insane more so than too much spare time! but an awesome machine none the less.I think you need to be a lil insane to mod a w202 the right way!
my project is going well. brackets are being made. was hoping to have them back over the weekend.. but looks like I am waiting till next weekend. good turn around time none the less. he spend most of a day plotting it all out and coming up with a drawing in CAD. next he transfered it to his CNC machine. I'm pretty sure he was going to machine them on thursday afternoon. but with it being a holiday weekend, Im not expecting them back over the weekend.. just hoping to see them!
CAD drawing of the bracket...
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/image002.jpg
Haha,yes well ...I really cant argue with that!^^,And now it looks like the car fund might help towards a house with no garage,that's insane as well^^(but will hopefully build one in coming years)
Brackets look the part!,Cant wait to see the finished product!,I think thats a much cleaner approach to your sway obstruction ;)
SLAMMED_C
04-10-2012, 08:46 PM
Haha,yes well ...I really cant argue with that!^^,And now it looks like the car fund might help towards a house with no garage,that's insane as well^^(but will hopefully build one in coming years)
Brackets look the part!,Cant wait to see the finished product!,I think thats a much cleaner approach to your sway obstruction ;)
that is insane! a house with no garage.. have you gone mad?! but as long as its the house you want.. you can always build your dream garage later on. good luck with the house Paul.
ya the drawing was good.. but the real thing is even better!
got a Pic from the machinist today (1 bracket complete)..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG-20120410-00199.jpg
dokotela
04-11-2012, 03:45 AM
that is top shelp.......brilliant Ross, i might just take you up on that offer for a pair
@Paul, priorities can be a bitch sometimes...lol
Damn,now thats what Im talking about...nice work on the brackets!!!. You could even make more and sell onto a few 202 guys!?.
Insane - haha ,yes. I swore I wouldnt use the car fund for the house...but after searching for over 12 months now for the perfect place we are just going to have to stretch ourselves and pay more,and we all know what that means^^. I cant complain to much though Iv had a good run on cars over the last 13 years =)
evevevevev
04-12-2012, 04:41 AM
nice to see more w202s being upgraded performancewise. its so rare in my country and there are tonnes of e46s out there :[
hey doko what size is your dump pipe?
car sounds great!
I have a 202 with 1.5jz but its an auto.
was your car manual before the engine transplant or did you do a conversion to manual?
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l8/eskaR7117/IMG_2128.png
dokotela
04-12-2012, 02:18 PM
Damn,now thats what Im talking about...nice work on the brackets!!!. You could even make more and sell onto a few 202 guys!?.
Insane - haha ,yes. I swore I wouldnt use the car fund for the house...but after searching for over 12 months now for the perfect place we are just going to have to stretch ourselves and pay more,and we all know what that means^^. I cant complain to much though Iv had a good run on cars over the last 13 years =)
u mean with the diesel??....lol
nice to see more w202s being upgraded performancewise. its so rare in my country and there are tonnes of e46s out there :[
hey doko what size is your dump pipe?
car sounds great!
I have a 202 with 1.5jz but its an auto.
was your car manual before the engine transplant or did you do a conversion to manual?
thanks man. 50mm. so you've got the 1jz head on the 2jz block?
my car was manual before the engine transplant.
what power are you pushing out?
evevevevev
04-12-2012, 09:20 PM
yes its a popular hybrid motor.
do you have problem fitting larger dump pipes?
mine has steering bolt sitting in the way :[
photo was old with HKS T3G turbo kits making 300+whp
ive done a single conversion with oversized forged pistons which is still being run in.
will see what she can make once the run in is complete.
SLAMMED_C
04-15-2012, 04:30 PM
Got the brackets back!
they turned out really nice. I need to do a test fit on my car to see if there is any tweaking that needs to be done. I hope it fits perfectly!
Here it is compared to the stock one, and it mounted on the spindle.
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_1103.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_1104.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_1105.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_1106.jpg
Awsome!!,Looks pricey?^^ Wish I had a 3D cnc mill!...one day for sure=D.
u mean with the diesel??....lol
Hahaha Dont ruin it...Its been hard enough convincing myself to use the car fund^^
dokotela
04-17-2012, 04:23 AM
what a beauty!!!! well done, now you can finally set that thing down on wheels where it belongs.
Logic
04-19-2012, 11:21 PM
isnt this thing done yet ???? lol i been away fro a grip and was hoping to see the video of it going down the street :)
Good turbo take time =P...Oh and it helps if it isn't -76 most of the year haha.
SLAMMED_C
04-22-2012, 12:47 PM
Awsome!!,Looks pricey?^^ Wish I had a 3D cnc mill!...one day for sure=D.
Hahaha Dont ruin it...Its been hard enough convincing myself to use the car fund^^
It does look awesome.. and it was pricey.. but not as pricey as I was anticipating! I wish I had a 3dCNC as well.. definitely a toy for the shop!
what a beauty!!!! well done, now you can finally set that thing down on wheels where it belongs.
Was hoping to do that.. but ran into a problem.
isnt this thing done yet ???? lol i been away fro a grip and was hoping to see the video of it going down the street :)
haha.. me too. Im so antsy to get this thing done.. getting there.
Good turbo take time =P...Oh and it helps if it isn't -76 most of the year haha.
You are right.. a good turbo project takes a lot of time as it is all custom. and lol.. yes it doesnt help that its -76 for half of the year!
So I worked on the W202 yesterday.. got a few things done.. not as much as I was hoping as usual! but got the intercooler finished up.. I ran the pump to make sure it worked, connected the remaining hoses up and filled the system up with coolant. so it seems to work well. it comes on with ignition on.
I have a vid of it..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/th_IMG_1109.jpg (http://s577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/?action=view¤t=IMG_1109.mp4)
Tried to button up the brakes.. but ran into an issue still.. it still touches.. just touches the outer edge of the sway bar bushing bracket.
seen here:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_1108.jpg
So I think if i take the brackets off and slightly chamfer the corner there.. it will clear. if not I can notch out the sway bar bushing bracket to help clear as well.
I cant go any higher with mounting the caliper (and having the cnc drawing adjusted) its up pretty high on the spindle, if I go any higher I may run into other clearance issue. so the spot its in is good. just need to chamfer the edge enough for it to clear and so I can hit the steering stop.
Ill update and let you know how things fit after I chamfer.
SLAMMED_C
04-25-2012, 08:16 PM
sorry about that.. I somehow managed to close the thread by accident.. its open now.
I have been modifying the brackets each night and testing them out. I have now got them fitting. so it looks like the brakes will work.
I know know I can modify them a different way then I would have done it now.. but oh well they fit.
Ill snap a pic of the brackets to show.. and over the weekend I'll snap some pics of them installed.
wrenchturner1980
04-26-2012, 06:25 AM
It does look awesome.. and it was pricey.. but not as pricey as I was anticipating! I wish I had a 3dCNC as well.. definitely a toy for the shop!
Was hoping to do that.. but ran into a problem.
haha.. me too. Im so antsy to get this thing done.. getting there.
You are right.. a good turbo project takes a lot of time as it is all custom. and lol.. yes it doesnt help that its -76 for half of the year!
So I worked on the W202 yesterday.. got a few things done.. not as much as I was hoping as usual! but got the intercooler finished up.. I ran the pump to make sure it worked, connected the remaining hoses up and filled the system up with coolant. so it seems to work well. it comes on with ignition on.
I have a vid of it..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/th_IMG_1109.jpg (http://s577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/?action=view¤t=IMG_1109.mp4)
Tried to button up the brakes.. but ran into an issue still.. it still touches.. just touches the outer edge of the sway bar bushing bracket.
seen here:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_1108.jpg
So I think if i take the brackets off and slightly chamfer the corner there.. it will clear. if not I can notch out the sway bar bushing bracket to help clear as well.
I cant go any higher with mounting the caliper (and having the cnc drawing adjusted) its up pretty high on the spindle, if I go any higher I may run into other clearance issue. so the spot its in is good. just need to chamfer the edge enough for it to clear and so I can hit the steering stop.
Ill update and let you know how things fit after I chamfer.
Is there anyway to purchase a set of there brackets?
SLAMMED_C
05-03-2012, 08:50 PM
Is there anyway to purchase a set of there brackets?
Possibly! I will be working out pricing with the fabricator soon. please do let me know if anyone is interested in the brackets.
These brackets are for the SLK55 front 6 piston brakes (2006 specifically), so they are the smaller non performance package brakes. only reason I am using these and not the slightly larger ones is so I can run a 17" wheel for the track.
brake caliper part numbers are as follows:
2006 SLK55 AMG Front;
-Left front caliper 003-420-47-83 x 1
-Right front caliper 003-420-48-83 x 1
-Pads 004-420-50-20 x 1
-Rotors 171-421-01-12 x 2
2006 SLK55 AMG Rear;
-Right rear caliper 003-420-30-83
-Left rear caliper 003-420-29-83
-Pads 004-420-29-20
-Rotors 171-423-02-12
The rears are a direct bolt on. the front and rear backing plates MUST be trimmed for the calipers to fit.
here is a shot with everything mounted up and ready to go. it does clear really nice now. I had to do a bit of reshaping on the bottom mount (from the above pic where I was having slight clearance issues still). after modifying mine I know what to do for a nicer look and better fit on any others that are made. I will have to relay info back to the machinist so he can do that when he cnc cuts them.
Pics arent the best, but will have to hold everyone over till its on the ground and in a better position for me to take some decent pics.
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/photo1.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/photo2.jpg
Awsome dude!! Cant wait to see it on the ground out of the the shed!...I bet you cant wait either!!. Glad the brakets only needed minor mods to fit...looks really good!
Words cant describe how much I want to be working on a 202 right now haha,especially after seeing this^^.
wrenchturner1980
05-04-2012, 08:23 PM
I'm in for sure!!! Sign me up for a set!
SLAMMED_C
05-08-2012, 07:50 PM
Picked up my race tires the other day.. here they are.
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_1144.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_1146.jpg
Also got all my wood trim back in for a test fit, need to make one filler piece and then do the shift knob. but heres how it looks so far..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_1150.jpg
Awsome dude!! Cant wait to see it on the ground out of the the shed!...I bet you cant wait either!!. Glad the brakets only needed minor mods to fit...looks really good!
Words cant describe how much I want to be working on a 202 right now haha,especially after seeing this^^.
Luckily it was just some minor trimming on the brackets. they dont look as pretty as they did when they were first machined!!.. but I will do a better job of trimming them next time as I know what needs to be done now.
Well I have some good news and bad news... heres the good:
Check it out..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/th_IMG_1151.jpg (http://s577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/?action=view¤t=IMG_1151.mp4)
The bad is it still runs lean even under boost.. so its either a different tune I need or possibly different injectors to use with the current tune I have (upsolute). so need to look into this.
Heres a quick vid of the interior.. almost fully installed. just have to fab up a filler piece and its done.
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/th_IMG_1149.jpg (http://s577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/?action=view¤t=IMG_1149.mp4)
I'm in for sure!!! Sign me up for a set!
Ill let you know when I find out pricing. I'll make a thread for it and see if there is any other interest.
lol @ Foot shot,So whos that hmmm? ha ha
Sounds really good btw awsome to see it running! did you change back to stock injectors?
SD202
05-09-2012, 07:19 AM
dude !! that interior came out super sick. And it is very nice to hear her running and see her moving !
Logic
05-09-2012, 06:27 PM
not finished yet ???? i been gone for a while and i thought i would be seeing this in action :D
SLAMMED_C
05-12-2012, 09:57 AM
lol @ Foot shot,So whos that hmmm? ha ha
Sounds really good btw awsome to see it running! did you change back to stock injectors?
the gf of course!! she chills out with me while I work on my car.
haha.. I know.. so awesome to see it running! still not running how I want. yes I did swap back to stock injectors.. and I run lean. how did you run okay with the stock injectors? were you stand alone then or running off of the stock ECU? I just got a set of 36lb (375cc) injectors.. hopefully these work.
I'm putting them in tomorrow, so we will see how it runs with them in.
dude !! that interior came out super sick. And it is very nice to hear her running and see her moving !
I love it.. turned out better than I was expecting. looks pretty good for home made! need to do 2 more pieces and then it will be complete.
not finished yet ???? i been gone for a while and i thought i would be seeing this in action :D
close man.. close! I know.. its in action.. sort of! almost there.
dokotela
05-25-2012, 04:02 PM
brilliant Ross....another step closer.
did u try and set the stock ECU on the "rich" setting. might be worth a shot. i set mine there after installing the pulley kit but will ultimately need a chip tune. but it runs richer for sure, i know this cos of the poor gas mileage...lol
SLAMMED_C
05-29-2012, 07:40 PM
brilliant Ross....another step closer.
did u try and set the stock ECU on the "rich" setting. might be worth a shot. i set mine there after installing the pulley kit but will ultimately need a chip tune. but it runs richer for sure, i know this cos of the poor gas mileage...lol
Small steps.. still working my way there!!
No I have not tried that.. I'll have to connect my DAS and give it a try. Ill be trying a set of 42lb injectors tomorrow night to see if it helps. I will also try disconnecting the coolant temp sensor, the MAS and see what kind of changes it makes.
haha.. well if you are getting poorer gas mileage it must be working!!
post up any findings tomorrow.. I hope I find a solution soon.
SLAMMED_C
05-31-2012, 06:02 PM
took this vid last night with the test fit of the 42lb injectors.. they worked pretty well. sorry for the shaky vid.. hard to hold the camera on the gauge and drive!
nows the hard task of finding some 42 or 45lb injectors!
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/th_IMG_1199.jpg (http://s577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/?action=view¤t=IMG_1199.mp4)
Dearlove
06-01-2012, 03:16 AM
shit...
225 vs 275, worried about under steer?
ldawgtheg
06-06-2012, 12:42 PM
SICKK
Sup!
Hmm, What sort of figures are you getting with the stock injectors? I cant recall what values I got on my LM1 ,I do know the engine would cut out at some part throttle situations at 6psi,but wouldn't at moderate to WOT...The part throttle problem may have been the ecu pulling because of knock!. Wonder if there's any old threads with this on here?. it was like 7 years ago^^.
billysc180
06-14-2012, 11:49 PM
W-O-W ;) .....and good luck.....greetings from greece
billysc180
06-14-2012, 11:52 PM
oh friend..i love you car
SLAMMED_C
06-27-2012, 07:00 PM
Sup!
Hmm, What sort of figures are you getting with the stock injectors? I cant recall what values I got on my LM1 ,I do know the engine would cut out at some part throttle situations at 6psi,but wouldn't at moderate to WOT...The part throttle problem may have been the ecu pulling because of knock!. Wonder if there's any old threads with this on here?. it was like 7 years ago^^.
very lean numbers on my a/f gauge, I was just driving around in my storage unit property so I couldnt get into boost very much.. but from what I could tell it was staying pretty lean. dangerously lean.
W-O-W ;) .....and good luck.....greetings from greece
thank you!
so latest news is finally got the 42lb injectors, and i installed them over the weekend.. but no starting the car yet as I have my throttle body out, (the boost pipe keeps slipping off of the throttle body, there isnt much meat where the throttle body lip is so the hose keeps coming off) i had a small pipe machine the exact inside and outside diameters as the throttle body. picked the part up on monday night.
I went to a welders today and got someone to weld it up for me.. he did it while I waited!
I also picked up my brabus bumper Tuesday.. looks killer. I had my buddy paint it for me.
Here are a few pics..
Brabus Bumper;
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/Brabusbumperpainted.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/Brabusbumperpainted2.jpg
Throttle body and Custom machine piece;
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/Throttlebodyandcustompipe.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/Throttlebodywithcustompipemounted.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/photo.jpg
Bumper should get mounted onto the car latest saturday, and throttle body will be reassembled and installed saturday as well. just need to smooth out the welds on the throttle body so there is some smooth surface for the clamp and boost pipe to get onto, which I will do at work on friday.
looks like i'll be in business soon!
I need an emissions test and get my license sticker renewed to drive it on the street. but other than that I should be able to drive it around my storage unit again! give it a lil test run.
Mike51809
06-27-2012, 07:14 PM
Great to hear! Keep it up man looks like its coming along well
Turned out well,some times welding the cast stuff can be a nightmare!
Cant wait to see how the bumper looks on!
SLAMMED_C
06-30-2012, 03:01 PM
Great to hear! Keep it up man looks like its coming along well
coming along really well!
Turned out well,some times welding the cast stuff can be a nightmare!
Cant wait to see how the bumper looks on!
He did it while I waited too, he didn't mention anything about it being difficult to weld.
I smoothed out the weld a bit so the clamp and hose could get a good bite on the aluminum.
Got the throttle body installed today, car seems to run okay.. however I think I have an injector leaking from the upper seal, so need to remove the rail and check if it got pinched when I put the rail in last time, and my engine cooling fan is not coming on, so I need to address that issue again. I guess I didn't get it sorted last time!
gets freaking hot under the hood! I will have to make templates of the hood vents I have and cut the holes in the hood for them. help get some of that heat out.
anyways.. here are a few flicks. sorry don't have an engine shot with the throttle body in, looks the same as it did before.. the part thats added on isn't noticeable from outside!
still a few things to finish up on the car.. but its coming along.
THE FLICKS...
Throttle body:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/Throttlegrounddown1.jpg
Brabus bumper installed:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/SideshotwithBrabusbumper.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/FrontshotwithBrabusbumper.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/4shotwithBrabusbumper.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/4shotwithBrabusbumper-1.jpg
MikeD
06-30-2012, 08:57 PM
Wow that looks great! Especially with those wheels! I cant wait to see this thing tearing up the track.
zmatt
07-06-2012, 12:57 AM
mean 202 man. I'm loving the dtm wiper mod and the brabus bumper.
SLAMMED_C
07-08-2012, 12:31 PM
Wow that looks great! Especially with those wheels! I cant wait to see this thing tearing up the track.
Thank you.. one of my favorite wheels! I cant wait to be tearing up the track!!
mean 202 man. I'm loving the dtm wiper mod and the brabus bumper.
Thanks, one of the first mods I did was the DTM wiper.. I've had this Brabus bumper sitting around for at least 4 years.. maybe even longer. takes a while to put things on my car!
Well got a chance to work on the W202 again.. it seems to be running better. fixed the leaking injector. I did pinch the upper injector seal. so switched it out for another one and we are good. I've partially figured out my suction fan issue (I removed the stock viscous fan, removed the stock a/c condenser cooling fans and bought a 98 C230 suction fan) before it wasn't shutting off at all, then i managed to make it not work at all.. now I've got it coming on with ignition on. so partially working. it seems to run at about 50-60% speed. I need to figure out what is telling it to come on so soon. when cold it shouldn't be coming on.. one warm I can see it cycling on and off. I have also removed my a/c system, compressor is gone, condenser is gone, receiver drier with the switches gone also. maybe with the a/c switch out it is putting it into a limp mode? gotta look into this.
anyways.. it runs well now, I unplugged the stock o2 sensor as it was leaning out my mixture too much.. it runs better now but I wont know for sure until I get it on the street.
only thing to get now is an emissions test.
here are a few pics..
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_1327.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_1326.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/IMG_1328.jpg
sorry.. only iphone pics.. I need to pull out my good camera again for some decent pics!
ShanesW202
07-08-2012, 07:58 PM
You have a beautiful ride! I'm in the process of rebuilding my top end and wanting to turbo it so bad!! For me it's so hard finding someone to do it since im not as talented as you are lol.
If you ever decide to sell that beautiful machine let me know. : )
_Nick
07-09-2012, 01:23 PM
Man that is a really beautiful 202. Those rims are a perfect style for the car. I love everything about this whip.
EDIT: I just went through every page of this thread. My god, this car has come a long way. An absolutely excellent and inspirational build. What quality. Its great seeing such builds on the 202 chassis. Best of luck with the car. What a beauty.
Christopher
07-10-2012, 10:59 PM
wow beautiful, its perfect.
714guy
07-11-2012, 10:26 AM
coming along really well!
Brabus bumper installed:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss217/SLAMMED_C/W202%20C23K%20Project%20Car/FrontshotwithBrabusbumper.jpg
Awesome!!! Glad to see it's finally on and Amazing progress with the car. I can't wait to get another W202 to play with.
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