DIY Adjustable rear camber arms

[202brabus]

Save money by making your own with the help of a member on another forum
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/camberarms.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/rearend.jpg

www.speedwaymotors.com
Parts list:
QTY:2 91008001-STR Forged Steel-4 Bar End - Straight Shank
$12.99 $25.98
STYLE: Str

QTY:2 91008002 Forged Steel 4-Bar End - Straight Shank/LH Thread
$14.99 $29.98

QTY:2 1750246 Jam Nut 5/8 Inch RH Raw
$0.99 $1.98

QTY:2 1750446 Jam Nut 5/8" LH Raw
$0.99 $1.98

Make sure to get 9" long links maximum, 10" is too long.
2 91034158-9 ALUMINUM TIE ROD SLEEVE, 5/8"
$7.99 $15.98
LENGTH: 9

Current Charge Summary
Sub Total: $75.90
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/checkout.jpg

Add another $10 or so for shipping. Not too shabby, just saved $200.
Then go to the hardware store and get eight thin 7/16" inner diameter fender washers for the sides of the nylon bushings to have a nice smooth plated surface to slide on. Use some petroleum jelly on the nylon bushings in the bore that slides on the center sleeve, and on the sides against the washers, so far they work great, no squeaking or anything, and the suspension feels nice and smooth.


You can use the stock bolts, inboard and outboard, and kept the stock safety retaining washer on the end outside of the fender washer and rod end sandwich on the outboard end, so that the new fender washer stays nice and flat.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/9pnVjl-1.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/QCPHHl.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/hDhMpl.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/4978241711_aa56f6fcac_z.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/4978241549_125a49347c_z.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/4978241497_ac7743046d_z.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/4978241285_86eaee2327_z.jpg


202brabus

[JRE320]

Wow!! that's really great if you can make your own camber arm. I purchase 1 from Speedybenz and I love it.
I think it will cost you around $300+ to purchase from a member in MYMBONLINE.

[202brabus]

1234512345

[202brabus]

Bumpie. Come and get it!

[ruzhkata]

sorry a newbie on here, but how is this different from the stock mercedes control arms?

[Denlasoul]

sorry a newbie on here, but how is this different from the stock mercedes control arms?

If your car is lowered, then there will likely be a negative camber of the wheel. Meaning instead of your wheel being like this: l the alignment of the wheel may look more like this: /

With an adjustable camber arm, you can extend/contact the arm to correct the camber due to the lowering.

[mazdalowandslow]

Here ya go,

Add at the end of your order the promo code "savemore" to save 5 bucks!

[mazdalowandslow]

Nice post! Big kudos! I was trying to do this a few years back with heim joints, but I was having trouble finding the right link bar.

[202brabus]

Save yourself $200!

[hvmercy]

where do we get them from 202brabus?

[ruzhkata]

all this extending/contacting the arm is done when an alignment is done right? or do i do it myself?

[mazdalowandslow]

Measure eye to eye on your stock arm, recreate the measurement with the new arm. Then take your car into an alignment shop for them to put the persice angle in.

[mazdalowandslow]

where do we get them from 202brabus?

Order from : http://www.speedwaymotors.com

He listed the part numbers so you can get the right parts.

[hvmercy]

Duuh, not only am i blind, I'm also brain dead on this Friday afternoon. Thanks.


Order from : http://www.speedwaymotors.com

He listed the part numbers so you can get the right parts.

[wichipong]

great post!!!

[SD202]

WOW perfect. THANK YOU , Now you should try and figure out a DIY for the fronts =D

[202brabus]

WOW perfect. THANK YOU , Now you should try and figure out a DIY for the fronts =D

Ill take donations lol jk

[OCKlasse]

Excellent find!

So with the two ends all the way threaded in, is it at stock camber?

[202brabus]

Excellent find!

So with the two ends all the way threaded in, is it at stock camber?

Yes it is.

[JRE320]

This is really a good find. I think I'm gonna order this for my C280. I can use the $200 for install and alignment.

[202brabus]

You can do the install yourself, its really easy. $45 for an alignment and you saved $155 still.

[97C28O]

Excellent find!

So with the two ends all the way threaded in, is it at stock camber?


Yes it is.

What if people want more negative camber? Just curious.

[202brabus]

What if people want more negative camber? Just curious.

More NEG camber?... I would order the 8" rods.

[hvmercy]

I think I'll try this when summertime comes. I'll be replacing my tires all around and want to get more life on it this time around. :)

I'll post a different thread when I'm about to do it.


You can do the install yourself, its really easy. $45 for an alignment and you saved $155 still.

[OCKlasse]

Ordered my parts today. Can't wait to put them in...

Thank you again!

[mbsickness]

I ordered a set for myself and the timing couldn't be better as I'm running -2.5 on the rear camber. As you have seen the parts in person what are your thoughts on corrosion or corrosion protection?

[202brabus]

I ordered a set for myself and the timing couldn't be better as I'm running -2.5 on the rear camber. As you have seen the parts in person what are your thoughts on corrosion or corrosion protection?

Mr. Roadster rod ends come in either forged steel or fully polished investment cast stainless steel for superior strength and durability.
Your answer, lol.

[SD202]

Ordered my parts today. Can't wait to put them in...

Thank you again!


lemme know how they hold up i plan on ordering some this weekend. although im choosing a different option for the tie rod sleeve same threading and length :D

[97C28O]

Does anyone have the proper alignment specs for our cars?

Now if someone can make some for the fronts ;)

[JRE320]

Does anyone have the proper alignment specs for our cars?

Now if someone can make some for the fronts ;)

Kmac got the fronts if you want.

[DRBC43AMG]

Kmac got the fronts if you want.

Kmac also have adjustable bushes for the rears. This does away with adjustable rear camber arms :)

[JRE320]

Kmac also have adjustable bushes for the rears. This does away with adjustable rear camber arms :)

Camber arms for the rear from Kmac is not too good. I got it for my C280. Need some more adjustment.

[martattack]

I installed a set of K-Mac front adjustable bushings on my old C280 when my friend owned it. It provided decent adjustability for camber and caster. As far as I know one of the only solutions right now. Beware if you attempt this without a press, it can be a pain in the ass. I was able to do it with a huge vise (after I broke a smaller one) to press the bushings in.

[mbsickness]

So I got all the parts the other day and assembled the arms. Just so I can allocate enough time to swap these out.....anyone know if I need to remove rear springs?

[202brabus]

So I got all the parts the other day and assembled the arms. Just so I can allocate enough time to swap these out.....anyone know if I need to remove rear springs?

The spring doesn't need to be removed. Just remove the tire, unbolt the old arm, measure and reinstall. Post some pics.

[mbsickness]

The spring doesn't need to be removed. Just remove the tire, unbolt the old arm, measure and reinstall. Post some pics.

Perfect, thanks for the information. I assume if I adjust the length at this time toe will be changed right?

[202brabus]

Perfect, thanks for the information. I assume if I adjust the length at this time toe will be changed right?

No, toe will not be altered. These are camber arms.

[mazdalowandslow]

So I see a problem with the install,

There is another arm to the upper part of the spindle, if you adjust the center upper arm the spindle will toe in.

[SD202]

No, toe will not be altered. These are camber arms.


do you think it would be safe to turn the toe arm into an adjustable arm as well? or does it already have adjustment capability ?

[202brabus]

do you think it would be safe to turn the toe arm into an adjustable arm as well? or does it already have adjustment capability ?

The toe arm is factory adjustable. No need to even mess with that arm, leave it alone.

[mazdalowandslow]

So this arm is adjustable?

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w261/mazdalowandslow/Random/rearend.jpg

[mazdalowandslow]

Well the numbers don't lie, Got an alignment today and the camber is back to -.5 from -2.7 deg.

Kudos!

[202brabus]

Well the numbers don't lie, Got an alignment today and the camber is back to -.5 from -2.7 deg.

Kudos!

Glad to hear :D

Not only did save money on the camber kit but you saved money not having to buy tires as often.

[mazdalowandslow]

Amen! now we got figure out a way to correct the front camber.

[JRE320]

Amen! now we got figure out a way to correct the front camber.

You really don't need to correct the front camber. It's just a waste of money.

[mazdalowandslow]

The front is almost equally as bad as the rear.

[SD202]

The front is almost equally as bad as the rear.


change the toe to offset the negative camber wear on the inside.

[eundaddy]

202brabus, do you think this method will work for the fronts??

[202brabus]

202brabus, do you think this method will work for the fronts??

I highly doubt it. Your car would handle WORSE and eat up tires Waaaay faster

[)EIB(]

What specific tools are needed for this install? The outboard bolt is a 12-point socket cap bolt. Can I use a hex bit on this?

[202brabus]

What specific tools are needed for this install? The outboard bolt is a 12-point socket cap bolt. Can I use a hex bit on this?

Nope, Get the correct 12point bit. You can find a set of 12point bits at autozone for $12 I think.

[OCKlasse]

Do you just use a rubber mallet to press the bushings into the rod ends?

[mazdalowandslow]

Do you just use a rubber mallet to press the bushings into the rod ends?

they fit so nicely I could get them in by hand, but ya, you can use the mallet of persuasion. Just remember to grease them up.

[netsfan549]

I wish I knew what ya r talking about.. I think this is what messing up my alignment

[JRE320]

I wish I knew what ya r talking about.. I think this is what messing up my alignment

If your car is lowered, then you would need this.

[netsfan549]

Oh k thanks. I want to lower it but I haven't yet..I need to buy springs for it

[97C28O]

is there any DIY on how to take it off/install everything? Does that whole subframe part have to drop?

[SD202]

No you dont need to drop the entire subframe. the install is two bolts on each side. it should take about 30-45 minutes. i havent installed mine they just got here yesterday
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/224033_10150243890820971_577010970_9394459_4621771 _n.jpg

[JRE320]

Wow!! let see how you do it.

[SD202]

Wow!! let see how you do it.


I only got one side installed today. Ill do a small write up for you guys when i do the other side. Its simple. All you have to do is press the sleeve out of the existing camber arm on the hub side and press that sleeve into the new arm on the side you choose to be the hub side. put the new arm in place of the old one and bolt it back up. the hub side uses a 17mm and on the inside you use 19mm on both ends just like the LCAs inside bolts.

[97C28O]

Please do! I'll order a set soon.

[SD202]

Okay this is gonna be a quick cliff notes of what to do since its seriously simple and straight forward minus one step. Please forgive the picture quality they are from a camera phone. so the camber arm is the one in the top center of the arms in the rear obviously. you need two 19mms for the inside bolts a 17mm open ended wrench as well as a 17mm hex socket. for the side that attatches to the hub. remove the two bolts and remove the stock arm you get this
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/entitled2nothin/638159190_2281454400_0.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/entitled2nothin/638159371_2281455116_0.jpg
See the sleeve. This is the side that attaches to your hub. you need this sleeve or they will be loose and wont fit correctly

I used a wood block and rubber mallet to beat the sleeve out and into the new arms when done your new adjustable arms should look something like this right before install

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/entitled2nothin/638159097_2281454263_0.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/entitled2nothin/638158082_2281450457_0.jpg

install is easy put in place of the old arm you removed and bolt it down with a couple washers on either side so it slides real nice. adjust camber accordingly.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/entitled2nothin/638224304_2281686371_0.jpg

And here is the hub side ( the side you have to press that sleeve into)
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/entitled2nothin/638224377_2281686631_0.jpg

[JRE320]

Thank you. It's very nice of you to share the info with club202 members.

[202brabus]

Another thing, if you somehow manage to destroy that sleeve don't worry, the dealer has them for a couple bucks

[97C28O]

did you adjust your camber when you did it too? I know you're pretty low.

[JRE320]

did you adjust your camber when you did it too? I know you're pretty low.

You still need alignment after the install.

[SD202]

did you adjust your camber when you did it too? I know you're pretty low.

I aligned it by eye the best i could Im Low to the ground and have a low offset so im playing around with diff size spacers in the rear to dial it in and achieve close if not factory alignment spec. heres what it looks like for now though , still negative.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/225295_10150245417365971_577010970_9406406_177084_ n.jpg

[SLAMMED_C]

just found this thread now!
good find 202brabus.. that sure is a money savings compared to other members that are selling custom ones.
wicked write up SD202.

[horgantrevor]

first post based in europe ireland

great thread

i have had the same problem on one of my cars for a few years

but in america you have an engineering shop on every corner nearly and no so in ireland

so hard to sort parts to make

two questions

how are they holding up the camber arms and will they pass a annual car test

and if some one could make a set i would buy and ship to ireland

by the way i have a w202 c240 v6 sport (c43 body kitted ), w202 c36 amg

[SD202]

first post based in europe ireland

great thread

i have had the same problem on one of my cars for a few years

but in america you have an engineering shop on every corner nearly and no so in ireland

so hard to sort parts to make

two questions

how are they holding up the camber arms and will they pass a annual car test

and if some one could make a set i would buy and ship to ireland

by the way i have a w202 c240 v6 sport (c43 body kitted ), w202 c36 amg

On the first page is a list of parts you need to make them yourself. Order those parts and ship them to your address. thats what i did. You make them yourself for around $80 USD

[horgantrevor]

thx ill do that how did yours go for you and how are they working out

[SD202]

they went in smooth. perfect fit even ! They seem to be working great so far.

[97C28O]

just placed my order.

Any need to grease/lube anything up?

[SD202]

just placed my order.

Any need to grease/lube anything up?


The black bushings and metal sleeve. I applied grease to the bushings to push them into the tie rod end slid the metal sleeve into that.

[nhmercracer]

Some of the Crossfire guys on Crossfireforum.org are reporting issues with aftermarket upper control arms. The stock links have a curve in them to allow clearance in the sway bar area. The straight control arms hit the swaybar and lever on the sway bar mounts on the body. This eventually rips the mount from the body shell.

When I fab my arms, I will try 300TE metal links. If this is an issue, I will try lengthening the links to prevent the problem.

[202brabus]

This isn't a crossfire/slk. Same concept rear 5 link but not the same. The newer 5 link uses aluminum arms and different geometry which aren't interchangeable with the older system. No clearance issues here. Even if they did hit, the link is made of aluminum which well bend before ripping anything out.

[wichipong]

they went in smooth. perfect fit even ! They seem to be working great so far.

nice to hear this... i guess imma do this too..

[)EIB(]

Where do you guys get the 7/16" fender washers from? I've been trying to find fender washers of this size but no where seems to carry this particular size of fender washers. I found 1/2" fender washers easily but just not 7/16". Any suggestions?

[SD202]

ERMMM.... thats a tough one. I know theres a place near my house called "marshals industrial hardware" they have all types of specialty bolts, nuts, tools, etc. Found the right size washers laying around the garage surprisingly. I dont know where you are located but look for a industrial/specialty hardware store.

[97C28O]

so I installed them but i forgot to get washers. also forgot to put some grease too but I'll be getting some grease today to apply.. are the washers necessary?

[202brabus]

Yes they are. Use them

[horgantrevor]

make the washers if you can not source them

[SD202]

without washers. or grease. It will squeak soo badly.

[ll1l2l1l2lll]

buying my camberkit now.

[97C28O]

without washers. or grease. It will squeak soo badly.

Greased it up with white lithium grease, no more squeak.

[Markland556]

Use promo code : 1409w
Save yourself $10

:)

[97C28O]

Guess I'll be the first to report a issue with my setup... One of the arms are making a clicking/creaking type noise whenever the camber is moved e.g. driveways, uneven roads..

[97C28O]

Do you guys know which 4-bar end is the one for the one on the inner side of the arm? I'm going to replace the 4-bar and tie rod sleeve because mine is seized and creating noises... the outter end, near the wheel, 4-bar comes out fine.

[SD202]

Guess I'll be the first to report a issue with my setup... One of the arms are making a clicking/creaking type noise whenever the camber is moved e.g. driveways, uneven roads..


Did you lube all bushings upon installation into the rod ends.

[ll1l2l1l2lll]

Did you lube all bushings upon installation into the rod ends.

and add washers? mine squeaks a tiny bit but nothing extremely noticeable unless you sit there and notice it.

[97C28O]

Did you lube all bushings upon installation into the rod ends.

Yep the bushings were all lubed. I had used Energy Suspension bushing grease which I had use for my sway bar on my other car which works great.


and add washers? mine squeaks a tiny bit but nothing extremely noticeable unless you sit there and notice it.

Washers are included.

On this arm, one end of the 4-bar end was pretty hard to screw in, went in the tierod smooth but later it got extremely hard to tighten in. Nothing is stripped, but the noise is definitely coming from that side (inner 4-bar side). I will need to replace the tie rod and the 4-bar. I just need to figure out what the 4-bar thread is, LH or RH. I do not have the car with me so I need to order it and have it sent home so I can return and work on it.

[97C28O]

Okay, so i guess I need to take apart everything and start from the beginning again. noise is increasingly rapid to the point where people will look at me when i come to a stop.

[nhmercracer]

If you cannot get the Energy Suspension grease, you can substitute Green Grease, or stop in an outboard motor dealer of your choice, and tell them you want some waterproof grease.

[97C28O]

If you cannot get the Energy Suspension grease, you can substitute Green Grease, or stop in an outboard motor dealer of your choice, and tell them you want some waterproof grease.

That is the only grease i use for any suspension related parts. I have a tub of it, it was greased with Lithium grease previously. I will apply the Energy Suspension grease this time.

[600whp s4]

this is sick

[OCKlasse]

Anyone looking to do this, hit me up. I have all the parts brand new sitting in my garage.

[nelius]

I also got a pair that I don't need for sale in the classified section

[97C28O]

Just took everything apart, and greased everything up with Energy Suspension grease. No more sounds! Finallyy

[gsxr]

No, toe will not be altered. These are camber arms.
This is not true. When you change the length of any of the factory links/arms (in this case, the camber arm)... the toe adjustment WILL be affected. The car should have an alignment at the MB dealership after installing the camber arms. You'll need to tell them what you want the rear camber set to (probably -0.5° to -1.0° would be fine). In extreme cases (massive lowering + camber correction) there may not be enough toe adjustment, in which case you can use the factory toe eccentric bushing, but that's $$$. Both my 500E's needed additional toe adjustment (more than the factory toe links would allow) after installing RDM TEK camber correction kits. Adding the eccentric bushing cured it. Dealer alignment sheet is at this link (http://www.w124performance.com/images/cars/92_500E/1992_500E_alignment.jpg).

Bottom line: If you don't get an alignment after installing non-factory camber arms, you're risking unstable handling at high speeds, and/or increased tire wear. If the rear toe is way out, it can still shred your rear tires even without a lot of negative camber. Don't ask how I know this.

;)

[gsxr]

without washers. or grease. It will squeak soo badly.
Yeah, that's why I removed the K-Mac kits from two of my cars. The sqeaking was ridiculous. I also don't want to have to take things apart and grease them as part of regular maintenance. Heim joint type links can cause nasty wheel hop on cars with a lot of power, so that didn't work either. The RDM TEK camber correction kit has none of these problems. The RDM TEK LCA's are no longer produced, but are still available in group buys of 10 pairs at a time, $300-$350/pair delivered in the USA (a bit more than the DIY stuff shown here). Zero noise.

What a lot of people don't understand is that the factory suspension links have bonded rubber bushings. "So what", you say? Well those OE bushings are part of the suspension design. Click the link below. This video was taken with the coil spring removed and shock disconnected. Note that the hub springs back to the center position (normal ride height location). If you install a bunch of Heim joints, this rebound action is reduced, or worse yet eliminated. The result is poor handling when pushed hard, and/or wheel hop under high power (i.e., 400E/500E, 300+hp). The K-Mac wasn't too bad since it only affected one pivot point (if you didn't use the tie rod bushing), but even then the noise would drive you crazy on a street car. The DIY links appear to have rubber end bushings, but I doubt they're bonded. YMMV, etc.

Factory suspension rebound video (10MB MPG file) :
http://www.w124performance.com/movies/Mercedes/rear_suspension_rebound.mpg

[kowalski]

This is not true. When you change the length of any of the factory links/arms (in this case, the camber arm)... the toe adjustment WILL be affected. The car should have an alignment at the MB dealership after installing the camber arms. You'll need to tell them what you want the rear camber set to (probably -0.5° to -1.0° would be fine). In extreme cases (massive lowering + camber correction) there may not be enough toe adjustment, in which case you can use the factory toe eccentric bushing, but that's $$$. Both my 500E's needed additional toe adjustment (more than the factory toe links would allow) after installing RDM TEK camber correction kits. Adding the eccentric bushing cured it. Dealer alignment sheet is at this link (http://www.w124performance.com/images/cars/92_500E/1992_500E_alignment.jpg).

Bottom line: If you don't get an alignment after installing non-factory camber arms, you're risking unstable handling at high speeds, and/or increased tire wear. If the rear toe is way out, it can still shred your rear tires even without a lot of negative camber. Don't ask how I know this.

;)


I bought the MB Arts camber arms for my C43.
After I had them installed and realigned my car by my mechanic who was trained by MB, actually he was their best mechanic and ...............

When I drive my car at high speeds, it feels like my rearend is moving a bit sideways, I would say it feels a bit unstable!
I only had the camber arms fitted nothing else on rear axle.
I asked seller/owner of MB Arts camber arms, he says I also should get his adjustable Toe in arms to cure the instability???
Another cheap $310 dollars waysted if I have to buy them too!

Dude told me my new camber arms don't cope with my old factory rubber bushings, mixing new and old stuff is a bad combo according to him.
I haven't noticed any strange tirewear yet.

What's the best thing to do?
Removing camber arms or installing adjustable toe in arms?

I don't feel any instability @ normal speed only at 3 digit speed from 95 - 100 m/hr and onwards I notice the problems.
I also have 4 new tires Continental sportcontacts

Thanx

[amokk8]

will this also work on a w124? my camber is totally out of sync and I'm tired of always buying tires!

[AndyMakss]

I have a 2002 CLK 320, would those part # work for my car?

[chimchongdlight]

Ok so since hea not making these anymore. Anyone know where i can get some at a decent price? Or piece together my own?

[MikeD]

Ok so since hea not making these anymore. Anyone know where i can get some at a decent price? Or piece together my own?

First page of this thread. It tells you exactly what you need to buy from Speedway Motors to make your own for under $100.

[97C28O]

Has anyone tried 8" one? I have the 9" sleeve and have it at the shortest length on both sides and the driver side is more positive camber than the passenger side. I would like to have the driver side a little more negative, only way I think is to shorten the sleeve.. 8" is way short in terms of camber..

[nd4spd13]

Anyone want to chime in on how their car has been after installing these? Any failures? Anybody tracked or autoxd with these installed?

Thanks

[Greeno]

I installed these on my 99 c230k a few months ago. They started to squeak really bad. I tookhem off and put some sillicone paste on the bushings and reinstalled. No squeaks since and no signs of wear.

[thegame]

Can some one post feed back on how this are holding up, my rear left camber is at -2.6 right now and rear right at -2.5.

[MikeD]

My car is running about a year strong after installing DIY camber arms. When I asked the shop I went to for an alignment, they said they were able to get the rear within spec, taking into account that the car was lowered. I ran them through an Illinois winter and they're holding up the same as when I installed them. No squeaks or anything.

[thegame]

thanks for the feed back MikeD. Did you install this exact ones or something else?

[thedose]

Has anyone done this on a non-lowered W202?

[thegame]

I just want to know if the aluminum sleeves are strong enough for every day use.

[Vetruck]

I just want to know if the aluminum sleeves are strong enough for every day use.

Yes, use the Coleman Racing aluminum tierod sleeves- they are plenty strong.

[MikeD]

thanks for the feed back MikeD. Did you install this exact ones or something else?

I bought the exact parts listed in this thread. Not too difficult of a DIY!

[thedose]

Has anyone done this on a non-lowered W202?

anyone?

[Dearlove]

there is no reason you couldn't, but unless for some reason your camber is out there is no point

[mebri]

www.speedwaymotors.com
Parts list:
QTY:2 91008001-STR Forged Steel-4 Bar End - 11 Degree Shank
$12.99 $25.98
STYLE: Str


For Part #91008001, do you want the "straight" (STR) or the "11 degree angle" (11)? Both are shown above...

[thegame]

I thing is srt because if you look at the Current Charge Summary picture on the first page it says style STR

[nd4spd13]

For Part #91008001, do you want the "straight" (STR) or the "11 degree angle" (11)? Both are shown above...

Can anyone who's installed the rods confirm? Should it be straight on both ends or does one side need to be angled? Ordered mine with the angled one as posted on page 1

[nd4spd13]

After attempting to install, both ends should indeed be straight. hopefully 202Brabus will edit his op so other people won't spend time and money getting the wrong ones!

[202brabus]

After attempting to install, both ends should indeed be straight. hopefully 202Brabus will edit his op so other people won't spend time and money getting the wrong ones!


Fixed, thanks

[mebri]

After attempting to install, both ends should indeed be straight. hopefully 202Brabus will edit his op so other people won't spend time and money getting the wrong ones!

Thanks. Ordered the straight ones, greased 'em up, installed w/o washers (better fit IMO), no squeaks or clicks. Rear is camber is finally back to factory spec.

[Vetruck]

here's a little preview of the camber links I am building. I am still waiting for delivery of my step spacer inserts for the shown right hand rod ends, and the left hand rod ends are also not here yet. they are extremely heavy duty QA1 HML10-12ht unts and I am sleeving them from 5/8" bore down to 1/2" bore and then using the Mezeire taper mount washers flanking both sides of the install against the upright.

It does not get any more heavy duty then this. these are pretty cuh an all out racing application that will in fact last a long time hitting potholes and such also. The rod ends shown are 55,692 lbs load rated and are HMR-12HT's from QA1

I put a US currency bill next to them for size reference.
1467

[202brabus]

Been done already, check these out by Ake rt.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/p1030897d_zps175cab5f.jpg (http://s121.photobucket.com/user/hpconcept/media/p1030897d_zps175cab5f.jpg.html)
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/rearcamberbearingw12421_zpsabc46fb6.jpg (http://s121.photobucket.com/user/hpconcept/media/rearcamberbearingw12421_zpsabc46fb6.jpg.html)
Bushing types:
- Normal bush = Mercedes OEM bush
- 85A light yellow Polyurethane Bush
- Ball bearing rod end: with maintenance or teflon liner (maintenance free)

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/imagehyr_zpsee58c8b3.jpg (http://s121.photobucket.com/user/hpconcept/media/imagehyr_zpsee58c8b3.jpg.html)

[Vetruck]

Been done already, check these out by Ake rt.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/p1030897d_zps175cab5f.jpg (http://s121.photobucket.com/user/hpconcept/media/p1030897d_zps175cab5f.jpg.html)
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/rearcamberbearingw12421_zpsabc46fb6.jpg (http://s121.photobucket.com/user/hpconcept/media/rearcamberbearingw12421_zpsabc46fb6.jpg.html)
Bushing types:
- Normal bush = Mercedes OEM bush
- 85A light yellow Polyurethane Bush
- Ball bearing rod end: with maintenance or teflon liner (maintenance free)

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/hpconcept/imagehyr_zpsee58c8b3.jpg (http://s121.photobucket.com/user/hpconcept/media/imagehyr_zpsee58c8b3.jpg.html)

Are you seriously that big of an idiot? Comparing some cheap ass Bangkok made platic bushing crap to a QA1 rod end suspension pivot? Moderators- it's this asshole or me- it's seriously gonna come down to that. Take it or leave it. This asswipe keeps posting like he does and I am gone from here.

[Vetruck]

The rest of my camber link parts came in. The top one is completely assembled, the bottom I pulled one of the step inserts out so you can see how it fits into the 3/4" rod end and steps the ID down to 1/2". It is 1 3/8" wide with both step washers inside it just like the mounting width on the rear subframe. The left side is the side that attaches to the upright. you can see the tapered washers that will set against the rod end and the bolt will go through- these allow for swivel movement of the rodend so as not to bind or press agains the swivel ball when the bolt is tightened. THey also allow a bit of safety since the upright mount side is only single shear (the chassis side is double shear mount so nothing can "slip off one side or the other " if a rodend were to somehow catisthopically fail. The hardened taper washers would prevent a complete failure and detachment. (wink) No one in the aftermarket industry is savoy enough to think of this (generally a lack of experience in what product they are trying to simply make a buck selling)

The left side rod end is a 3/4" shank and a 5/8" bore. Those Meziere taper washers are 1/2" bore. What you are not seeing is the 5/8" to 1/2" sleeve inserts I have in there to reduce the rod end bore down to the 1/2" bolt size I need. I bought those from Moore Porducts here in So Calif.- they are only about $1.50 each.
1471

It doesn't get any better than this. These are WAAAYYYY stronger than MB arts camber arms, and just as light weight plus much more safe design.

[Vetruck]

I just installed mine this morning- finally had a few hours to mess with it. I used 2 1/2" long bolts on the chassis side with one fender washer inserted with the rod end assembly inside the inboard mount tabs. Gap was barely wider (my assembly was 1 3/8" wide and the mount is 1 7/16", so a standard aprox 3/32 thick fender washer too up the little gap just on one side. These reducer inserts I used into the 3/4" bore rodend to reduce to 1/2" have nice sized shoulder on them already to force against the mount walls- so the fender washer is not needed on both siade for any type of reinforcement, just gap filling.

The tricky part- had to drop the 4 rear suspension subframe mounts and lower the rear subframe about 4 " in order to get a cordless drill up into there and bore out the inboard mount holes from 12mm to 13mm(1/2"). New grade8 bolt, 1/2" x 2 1/2" long, a few standard washers on each outer sides, and I grade 8 nylock nut to hold it all in place.

Now the outboard mount: With the OEM camber arm removed, the OEM insert sleeve goes out with it so the bore on the knuckle is already 13mm (1/2") even thought a 10mm (aprox 3/8") bolt is used OEM. I used the same length bolt in 1/2" as OEM, 3 inches long (only because the industrial warehouse I shop at was out of 2 3/4" long.) I had to insert a few fender washers on each side of the Meziere taper safety whasers to take up length of the bolt prior to insertion into the upright so as not to have the bolt stick through too long and make contact with the forward upper link arm.

As for length of the arms I built, I could have gone a 1/2" shorter but they worked fine. When I finiehd installing them, the shortest position was about 1/8" longer than the OEM arms, yet they would extend about 2" longer- so buying arms 1/2" shorter than what I did would be best. Mine still have adequate street adjustment (this will never be a track car, so I will never need massive rear camber for racing tires) the left side sat at -1.3* max camber (I adjusted it to -0.6), and the other side was maxxed only at -0.9. I sat both sides at -0.5 after assembly of the suspension (not quite fully settled) but I was in a quick hurry to get it close for now. I will set it percise tomorrow morning when I have more time as well as set the toe again. A qcik test drive around a few blocks and up to speed (about 70mph with a few jiggles left and right, and a hard stop) and then put in back into the garage for a quick double check- the left settled to -0.6 and the right is at -0.9. Ill reset them tomorrow to -0.5 and set toe to 3/32in I hope as long as I still have adjustment range with toe.

All in all the install went pretty quick other than having to drop the subframe to drill the inner mounts to 1/2". Sorry, no pic because like a dumb ass I hiked up to Azusa Canyon "Bridge to Nowhere" and jumped into the river to swim forgeting I had my GoPro in my pocket without the waterproof housing on it. Expensive mistake, but fun day.

[kowalski]

najs write up Vetruck.
when will you start doing the adjustable toe-links purchase?

[Vetruck]

najs write up Vetruck.
when will you start doing the adjustable toe-links purchase?

Ill check the toe tomorrow. I think I still have enough factory adjustment, but if I do not I am NOT messing with new tow arms, I will instead do Kmac eccentric rear control arm bushings to bring the bottom back a little so the fron toe arm is in spec adjustment range again. Ill keep you posted on results.

I just got off the phone with the misses, she reports the car drove very very nice and she ecould take her hands off the wheel over the road seams that were yanking it around prior to today. I just had too much rear camber and the inside pointed tire edge was seating into the road seams and tugging the rear end of the car everywhere making unwanted steer when you hit them. Not anymore. The tire is much more flat now and bridged the road seams rather than catching them. I want to get the car out by myself and really run it hard around some 60 mph+ freeway cloverleafs and check the roll and balnce on it now that the rear is in better alignment spec.....then go from there whether I will go swaybars or not- Hoping not to, but I may need to lock it up more if the car is still roling bad.

The exhaust will be coming up soon on the agenda in the next few months. Once I do this, I will bridge the two rear control arm mounts with a spreader bar and solid rod ends (non swivel type) by simply inserting longer control are bushing studs and mounting the spreader bar to the back side of the mounts. The exhaust is in the way right now or I would do that immediately. Have a strong feeling I am getting alot of flex there and do not want to crack it. I will also later weld a sloid metal brace across the subframe above the tabs also- since that is simple for me to do. That rear subframe is flimsy when I unbolted it from the chassis.

ps- I have a few serious issues with two other cars that i had to again kindof put projects on this car on hold. I was going to do the body next but funds are diverted to the truck rearend and tires and new battery for another car. There just went a couple grand-Always something.

[kowalski]

when lowering the car with aftermarket springs and sporty shox like i did, does standard factory toe-links give enuff adjustability for toe-in on w202 cars?

what kind of improvement vs factory toe-links do we get with adjustable aftermarket links?
do they provide a wider adjustability vs standard rods?

how is the response (improvement) with aftermarket toe-links in sporty streetuse drive, do we get more stability in straightline driving or car will handle better on twisty curvy roads, better stability in high speed driving?

[Vetruck]

Kowalski, the factory toe links are a very solid design. Going aftermarker would not gain anything in stability or performance. As for adjustment range, every car is slightly different as per build tolerences so most could be fine, but some could have issues with lack of adjustment. just depends on how low you go, as well as has the car ever been in an accident and slightly tweaked, etc.

As I stated above, now that I have studied the car well and have been tinkering with it the last few months, I have come to the conclusion that I would never bother changing rear toe links-WHY? becasue as stated they are plenty strong. What I would rather spend the money on is new KMAC eccentric rear control arm bushings- for two reasons. 1) takes out more of the lateral flex when you replace the crappy OEM rubber bushings, and 2) by bringing the bottom control are inward just a tad, you regain more adjustment range of the OEM toe links.

[thegame]

first i just want to mention that this install does not take 45 min like someone here mentioned. I took me 2 hours just to do one side, and is not because this is my first time working on suspension. the DIY part of this threat and in this forum in general are horrible (not to insult anybody). besides SD202 (Thank you) nobody took the time to take some pictures of how everything is installed, on which side the washers go and how to adjust the camber after you installed them? I have not done the right side and hopefully i will finished it tomorrow and take some pictures of how to take apart everything and how to put everything together. now how in the world do you adjust camber with this things, do i have to take the wheel off all the time to adjust it? Also when i try to turn the yellow rod it is very difficult to turn. also what are the bolts on each site for what is their purpose?

[thegame]

My first DIY instructions
the installation. tools you will need a ratchet an extension a 17mm socket a 17mm open end wrench and two 19mm wrenches (preferably one of them with a 19mm ratchet mechanism1724).
ok first use wd40 on both ends of the camber arm. remove the far end bolt and nut (it is the most difficult of the two). use the fixed 19mm wrench to hold the nut and the 19mm wrench with the ratchet mechanism to move the bolt 1725. after the nut gets untightined and fall off use a jack to raise the hub a little so you could remove some of the stress of the 19mm bolt this way the bolt can be push out easy1726 I know i missed spelled weight.
after removing the 19mm nut go to remove the 17mm nut and bolt. use the open end 17mm wrench to hold the nut and a ratchet an extension and a 17mm socket to remove the nut and the bolt.1727
now you should be able to wiggle the camber arm up and down. to remove the arm complete spray wd40 on the hub bolt and wile wiggling push against it this should get it free. the arm will look like this1728
spray wd40 on the silver sleeve and push it out until it gets leveled with the arm then use the 19mm bolt to push it though the hole

[thegame]

spray wd40 on the silver sleeve and push it out until it gets leveled with the arm then use the 19mm bolt to push it though the hole1729,1730
now put together the adjustable arm use a lot of grease. also on the yellow tube, one end is a little squared off use that end for your hub end (i'm not 100 % sure on this one but is what i did) it makes it easy to adjust.1731
then install in reverse 1732
this is why i think you should put the squared end towards the hub make it easy to adjutant (again not 100% sure)1733

Disclaimer: I don't not take any responsibility or damage to your vehicle, you or anybody that uses this DIY/tutorial. the reader is using it at their own risk. This is just to help others

[RemoLexi]

Vetruck, I thought in NASCAR they only made a left turn unless spun out.

[Vetruck]

Vetruck, I thought in NASCAR they only made a left turn unless spun out.

Why are we discussing this?

SInce I am here I will attach a picture of my soild racing lionks installed. They are 100% noise free as expected and already have over a 1,000 miles on them)
1734

[RemoLexi]

Not sure it was necessary for u to be that rude to Brabus202. Club202 members should not feel as if one was valued higher then another.

Member Brabus202 created this thread long ago in order to help our community. I don't know what beef you have with him in other threads.

Mods may let this kind of bahavior slide, but trust me there's nobody choosing which member to keep or ban based on brag posts.

[Vetruck]

...

[RemoLexi]

I don't think this forum will run dry without your nonsense. Enjoy your C220.

[thegame]

this guy is an asshole man. I don't know if anybody here noticed but vetruck does like to brag about him been a nascar driver and a suspension know it all. In every thread you read he has to say it. or how he teaches people, how to drive high end cars. Get off your high horse body.

[RemoLexi]

The guy is all talk. Though the information he overwhelms you with may seem like he knows what he is talking about- if you dissected it, it's all bullshit.

You simply can't say a single wrong word to the guy without him blowing up trying to prove u wrong. F that. Old codger.

[John Jones Jr.]

Yeah, at first I was always interested in hearing what he had to say, mainly on shocks & springs, plus it's always good to have the opinion of a 'pro' on any aspect and especially when modifying. Reckoned I might learn a bit from his input and maybe I did but I got say his posts were hard work to follow and lacked empathy, and empathy is a basic requirement for a 'pro' to have when explaining something or teaching something. He seemed to be on his high horse a lot too, which is a shame as there's no need for it. The bragging didn't didn't endear him either, a big ego compounded with arrogance along with a short fuse do not make good reading or encourage communication on a normal level.

[RemoLexi]

Well I'm glad I'm not the only one here who was annoyed with him.

[John Jones Jr.]

No, you're not on your own. No doubt he has pissed off people on other forums too.

[RemoLexi]

I can only imagine how far the bullshit stinks.

[nhmercracer]

Wow I'm gone for a couple of weeks and look at all the fun I missed. This is a very informative thread.

Keep in mind one major flaw with this modification. The supposed "strength" of Vettruck's parts is total overkill. Even the parts we are using are stronger than the stock arm. The stock part is designed to bend in a collision, to help protect the subframe and mounting points. We have removed this protection. Making this modification with even stronger parts is a waste of money.

You should inspect this part every few months. These are "hot rod" parts, not the stock 100K items.

If you want suspension info from real racers, check out Grassroots Motorsports.

[anf6789]

http://www.hedgehog-motorsport.com/

[pedrobenz]

do we leave the front alone?

as far the toe on the rear, did i understand it right that it will not affect toe with this DIY camber kit?

[202brabus]

Not sure it was necessary for u to be that rude to Brabus202. Club202 members should not feel as if one was valued higher then another.

Member Brabus202 created this thread long ago in order to help our community. I don't know what beef you have with him in other threads.

Mods may let this kind of bahavior slide, but trust me there's nobody choosing which member to keep or ban based on brag posts.

Hello everyone, for the record I don't have any "beef" with anyone, and i didn't even read when he wrote so it doesn't matter. Ive been working on a M104 swap in my w201 so ill be on here a little more often.

[202brabus]

do we leave the front alone?

as far the toe on the rear, did i understand it right that it will not affect toe with this DIY camber kit?

If you change rear the camber angle it will affect the toe angle in the rear, when you take it to get aligned they will adjust the toe as well.

[Syfi]

I know this is around a year old but may still be of great interest here...

Here's my thread from the Crossfire forum that shows the setup we've been using for the last 3 yrs or so. Only difference in my setup is we chose to use a DOM steel tube in place of the Aluminum one for superior strength {Mod edit:FALSE-only when same size and wall thickness tubing is used. Steel is a lot heavier. Pound for pound, aluminum thicker wall tube at the same weight as steel is stronger. Aluminum is more expensive. CM tubing is lighter than both steel and aluminum, thus can be used much thinner wall for weight savings over steel while retaining the same needed strength tube}. Use of dissimilar metals (steel threaded into Alum.) will cause galvanic fracturing and accelerated corrosion.{Mod edit: True only when uncoated metals are used-thus FALSE in this case. Steel rod ends are generally zinc coated and aluminum is anodized. Steel tubing is fine on a race car where the steel tube does no see a lot of water. I would not suggest steel in this application for a daily street car-WHY? Threads will rust over time and you will loose adjustment ability through corrosion seizing} where Same Speedway 4-bar ends are used. This particular setup has been thoroughly tested in the World Of Outlaws series and is made to collapse the tube during a horrendous crash which saves on destroying other components which was happening with the use of solid bars {Mod edit: False- Aluminum hex tub is commonly used}. I highly recommend that you grease the threads and run them completely in and out of the tubes to make sure they don't seize and remain easy to move. Especially helpful for those that are autocrossing and want to change their settings from street by throwing in some neg camber for racing. Also coat the inside of the 4-bar, the inserts and the bolt for complete squeek free fit. A smidge of blue Locktite on the nuts also helps{Mod edit: You do not need locktite. Jam nut use eliminates the need. Loctite harms threads }. I have this setup on both of my Xfires for the last 3 yrs. without a peep. Both are at factory height, but they both experienced the premature wearing to the inner rear treads, which is very common on the larger Xfire rear tires. Before installing these I would only get maybe 15K out of the rears. After installing these I got over 42K out of my last set, saving me a butt load of cash.

I've also sold this same setup to a buddy who is a MB mechanic with the local Firestone and he's installed a couple-o-dozen sets on different model MBs with perfect results. I included some of the pics from 202brabus first post and there's a YouTube vid @ the bottom of the thread showing the complete removal and install process. Also, all parts have links included and the prices have been updated as of 2/19/2015.

http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/wheels-brakes-tires-suspension/59257-diy-rear-cambers.html#post712854

FYI - Here's the link to the YouTube vid incase it'e not viewable....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xS5UZZBWFM

{Mod Edit NOTE: than eliminate this post, I felt it was more important to keep some very common misconceptions and provide actual data.
Dean}

[Vetruck]

I would like to elaborate a little more on the above post. I also want to caution SYFI to please watch what info you post on this suspension forum when it comes to fitting any agenda of selling parts with made up info to back attempted sells- As you listed in the above post you've "sold" a few sets to a MB mechanic.

Why are steel tube components inferior? Because they are heavier in unsprung weight. Every car has what is called a ride ratio. That ratio is the weight of the body and parts of a car resting on the springs which is known as sprung weight. That weight is then set over the amount of weight of all of the suspension and wheel assembly part-some are a percentage of both sprung and unsprung like link arms and shocks since the connect sprung/unsprung. A typical non-luxury/non-performance street car may have as low a ratio as 2:1 which is poor ride ratio. A better quality ride will be more like 4:1 or 5:1 range. Most high end race cars shoot for 5:1 but the reduction of sprung weight means the use of VERY EXPENSIVE unsprung components to keep a high ride ratio. What this means is every 5 lbs you drop in chassis weight you need to drop 1 lb of unsprung weight to maintain a chassis that will not unsettle over bumps.

Now the reason for this info is because I do not like just overriding someone's post without
giving hard facts as to why posted info is wrong and/or misleading. I feel I owe the poster and everyone else a factual explanation that it is not opinion, rather it is fact.

The use of aluminum in motorsports has long been a practice (as many of you know already- I will list this for those who do not). I am a professional {that means I am paid for my specialties} on a NASCAR race team and specialize in chassis dynamics. I deal with racing on a weekly basis first hand and am in quite the position to debate the above said misinfo on World of Outlaws using steel arms. Race cars want low unsprung weight. The lowest out there is Chromemoly, then aluminum, and finally steel when used in street applications. Chromemoly (CM) is frowned upon in the racing community and is mostly regulated against due to the fact CM has to be "normalized" after the fabrication/welding process. Thus mild steel cages are used. In suspension link arms, aluminum is stronger pound for pound then mild steel. Since CM has to have bungs welded into the DOM tubing ends, CM is not allowed in most professional series if not all that I know of. Hence why I list the WOOutlaw cars use aluminum because they want strength and low unsprung weight, and mostly because they are one piece links without welds.

I will ask that anyone posting info on materials to please list links to facts in order to back an argument as to what is better than what. There is far too much hearsay on misconceptions on the internet...plus most car websites fall victim of posts where people say something is best "just because its what they have on their car".

Thank you, an my apologise if anyone feels I have offended them. My intention here is to always stick to factual info so people spend their hard earned money with the best possible education on parts choices.

Here or some weight statistics for everyone on tube qualities.

24" steel tube 1.25"OD by .120 wall= 2.89 lbs
24" aluminum tube 1.25"OD by .250" wall= 1.84" Twice as thick but still weighs less by one full pound.

Dean aka Vetruck
2512

[Denlasoul]

I had a set made with 304 SS links. I had never considered unsprung weight before this last post.

Would that be too heavy compared to aluminum rods of equal size? Using QA1 XM-10 rod ends as well. I know ss is better for corosion which plays a small factor living in the PNW.

[Vetruck]

I had a set made with 304 SS rods. I had never considered unsprung weight before this last post.

Would that be too heavy compared to aluminum rods of equal size? Using QA1 XM-10 rod ends as well. I know ss is better for corosion which plays a small factor living in the PNW.

When I checked the weights, the T304 SS tube is about twice as heavy as the Aluminum 6061. Stainless steel arms are extremely flex resistant and a very dense material. The used to make control arm 5-lnk setups for C3 Corvettes out of stainless steel arms. The setups are heavy but are certainly strong and extremely corrosion resistant. More of a show car thing for shiny looks.
The positive side of things is you are not using all that much length f camber arms. Only about 9" from what I recall (sorry, I deal with so many types of cars and too many figures in my head). A 12" piece of 304 is about 1.5 lbs, where as the aluminum is about .8 lbs. you are probably about as heavy/light as the OEM stamped steel units.
If you were to build an entire rear 5link MB suspension out of all SS links and compare to all alum links? The 10 bars total on both combined sides of the MB rear suspension would be about 8 lbs heavier. That is equivilant to adding 40 lbs of sprung weight to get the same ride ratio- About the same weight a smaller car battery. A MB battery is about 50-60 lbs just for reference. You can see the benefits of using lighter weight products.

The other thing most people do not consider is the heavier weight of aftermarket large diameter wheels and tires. You can buy very heavy wheels and be adding 10lbs per wheel alone. This is a CONSIDERABLE unsprung weight gain and really hurts ride quality as well as chassis handing over bumps. The heavier assemblies with thrust upward with greater momentum and travel further against the shock damper and spring rate-thus-unsettling the chassis where a lesser weight assembly would not as much.

Everything I do I consider weight- Especially unsprung weight. it is why I have a 4cylinder car. My wheels and tires are only 2 lbs heavier than the OEM ones but much larger in width AND diameter.

I am building a Dodge neon endure racecar right now for some "Night of destruction" races (kind of a smash up derby road race) as exhibition after our NASCAR races. I choose that car because of the lightweright car (power to weight ratio) but also the suspension assemblies are very light. The car is 1980 lbs (started at 2470 prior to me stripping it and then welding a 4pt cage) The car is 160hp as it sits now so power to weight ratio is in the 12/1 range which is respectfully quick (faster then stripped racing Miata's). Everything on this car has been shaved, cut, grind, etc to try and reduce weight everywhere both sprung and unsprung. Ashame Ill have it smashed up in 6 races :) but it will pay fir itself in royalties/prize money.

2513

[RemoLexi]

As far as sales of such products go, to keep your butt covered in case a failure / lawsuit I believe you want to have LLC (limited-liability company)

I know you mean no harm, but in a serious accident or God forbid a fatality, installation of such parts may come up and you can get sued. I am surprised (wait, actually I'm not... ) that Firestone would offer such a thing.

[Denlasoul]

If the static load rating on a rod end is 17,995 lbs, what does that actually mean? That it is capable of holding 17995 lbs of constant pressure at the thread or ball joint, etc?

Also, can you give me an idea of what are typical pressure loads for these types of components?

[Vetruck]

17995 static load is their failure If something were to suspend from it. Load applied to a in this situation is probably only a few thousand pounds worst case scenario at best-most of the time less than 100 lbs. Just like ball joints have different qualities and require maintenance or replacement, The better quality bought in is looked upon the same way. A lot of people use lesser quality com-12 rod ends in circle track racing only because there are a lot of accidents and better quality ones would be too expensive to replace all the time.

[Vetruck]

As far as sales of such products go, to keep your butt covered in case a failure / lawsuit I believe you want to have LLC (limited-liability company)

I know you mean no harm, but in a serious accident or God forbid a fatality, installation of such parts may come up and you can get sued. I am surprised (wait, actually I'm not... ) that Firestone would offer such a thing.

This is very good info for anyone selling aftermarket parts. People often do not realize these parts are not DOT approved and could get their butts sued it something bad happens. Even using them is a legal risk- always buy the best stuff available.