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anf6789
11-14-2012, 02:22 PM
Looking for turbo stuff

ie:
Wastegates
Blow Off Valve
Piggy-Back ECU
Turbo-Parts
Boost Controllers
Injectors
Intercoolers
Piping
ect.

Would rather buy it used from someone on Club202 if possible

If you have something let me know I may be interested

Aaron

RemoLexi
11-15-2012, 09:01 AM
I'm on this path also but don't even see the end yet. Make sure you sit down and make a list as thorough as possible. Don't skip on costs such as welding and alum. Drain fitting to the oil pan as well as having to remove it. Oil feed line, extra wire for the FI/c, EGT gauge, boost gauge, wideband o2, oil pressure gauge, I have a list I've made and am in persuit as I have money. Injectors alone will run you $400. Add fuel pump and a bigger hose from tank to pump and your already at over $600 alone!

anf6789
11-15-2012, 02:12 PM
Oh I know the costs seem to be adding up. Luckily turbo was basically free.

My friend is a mechanic, and also has 3 turbo cars under his belt.
He has 6 440cc injectors already, as well as 8 from his w211 e55 he is rear mount turboing.
He also has some various other stuff laying around have to look through it though
Are you planning on using the AEM FIC/6? or like split second or something else?
Ive heard varying stories about the fuel pump but i'm planning on upgrading it to a better bosch unit anyway.
I have to buy two factory manifolds so I can get started on my idea for a simple turbo setup without a "custom log" header.

I have a feeling we will be talking alot ;)
Post up your list!

Thanks for the input look forward to hearing more

RemoLexi
11-15-2012, 03:02 PM
I don't know if 440cc injectors are enough. I was told 550cc on 91 (not recommended) and 750cc on E85 which is the safe route with 7-9psi max.

Instead of your stock manifold design try searching for a used OM603 manifold. I've heard those are close fit just redrill the holes.. Idk ... I'm going with the log design. I bought a new Mig welder but I have yet to give it a try.

I bought a new .70 trim cheap turbo for now, HKS ssqv 3 blow off valve, AEM FI/c 6. I have all the piping needed for a full straight 3" exhaust because in order to turn a snail that big I need the least amount of back pressure.

anf6789
11-15-2012, 08:08 PM
yeah I'm still in the begining stages of everything. Need to figure out all the wiring for the AEM FI/c 6 as that seems like the route everyone takes. I'd do a log too if I could find a flange, i think ill try this manifold design and see how it goes. Its really simple, just routing the rear manifold into the front. we have 93 over here, with the stock fuel pressure the injectors will be around 470cc. still have to do some research on that. I plan on running no more than 8psi of boost most likely. Id like the car to last ;) Id set it up for e85 but that still remains to be decided to.

I'm planning on doing a water to air intercooler to replace the intake crossover. Seems like a pretty good idea.

This'll be a fun project, and some good info, since there arent too many Turbo C36's.

RemoLexi
11-16-2012, 05:29 AM
Air to air is all it needs really...

I have the AEM wire instructions and they are very simple-stupid proof. You would need WIS diagram print out of what color wires go where off the ME.

I just got my single mass flywheel/ spec clutch to keep up with any added power! Stock clutch is no good other then a stock car!

anf6789
11-26-2012, 03:06 PM
got the turbo all cleaned up. its a T04E 60trim. Exhaust housing painted black ect. Purchasing the AEM FIC/6 sometime in the near future. A member has one for sale. Still thinking of going the air to water route, as using the intercooler as the intake crossover pipe seems like an awesome idea to me :) Prob not going with a BOV, but we'll see. Excited, should start to come together in the spring.

SD202
12-02-2012, 08:29 AM
google M104 turbo I cant remember where i saw a post but it was recent and the guy still has an entire M104 turbo setup including exhaust and intake manifold with a fuel rail .

anf6789
12-02-2012, 01:22 PM
Hmmm. Never seen that before and I've searched exhaustively lol. I'll try to find it. Don't really need a fuel rail just bigger injectors, that should be sufficient for my power gains..

Found it... Was it a post by MrC36 on peach parts?

RemoLexi
12-03-2012, 08:08 AM
Send me that link I may buy whatever he has

SD202
12-03-2012, 08:22 AM
Hmmm. Never seen that before and I've searched exhaustively lol. I'll try to find it. Don't really need a fuel rail just bigger injectors, that should be sufficient for my power gains..

Found it... Was it a post by MrC36 on peach parts?

yes IDK what made me say benzworld lol.


Send me that link I may buy whatever he has

he wants $800 shipped for the last remaining manifold and $400 shipped for the intake manifold + fuel rail combo.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/performance-paddock/322650-m104-turbo-set-up-sale-extra-c36-engine.html

anf6789
12-03-2012, 10:23 AM
Remo he was quick to respond to email. Send him one he was in the process of taking pics. 800 is a little steep for me lol.

Now that I see the pic 800 looks tempting lol it's a twin scroll t4 but I can adapt

anf6789
12-17-2012, 05:53 PM
ok some more updates.

Got a secondhand TIAL wastegate for free, needs a new diaphram so ill have to do that
Cleaned up the secondhand Garrett T04E turbo and painted exhaust side with black header paint.
Need to figure out oiling for the turbo??

Decided on going with an A/A FM intercooler. found one on ebay for cheap with all the piping and its all black!

doing some research on fueling ect.

with the stock GTP supercharged grand prix fuel injectors i have laying around (412cc) and an upgraded FPR 5bar (72psi)
http://www.neuspeed.com/078133534-5-bar-fuel-pressure-regulator.html $79
and a knockoff bosch 044 fuel pump $99
http://www.tlfperformanceparts.com/Perf-Pump/PerfPum-Univ3-NP28-434.html

those injectors will be at 530cc. which gives me some headroom for the 400 crank hp i'm conservatively going for

Meth Injection will be a possibility for sure as its easy to do.

Now some questions about the AEM FIC/6 that most people seem to be using.
Does anyone have experience with this?
Will work with the 97 C36?
Will i be able to use it for timing retard?

Maybe some OG turbo guys will be able to chime in.

Might move this thread to performance since it seems like its getting away from classifieds lol!

RemoLexi
12-17-2012, 07:28 PM
Yea there is no reason the FI/c 6 won't work with our 97' C36. It intercepts the cam and crank signals (maybe just cam) and retards them if needed. I have a new AEM fic 6 in the box but I have not yet hooked up or played with it.

anf6789
12-17-2012, 08:21 PM
ive read it does crank, though its hard to decipher posts from 4 years ago lol. A guy named TurboE320 or Pro60Modman on a couple benz forums had the most info and he used the Fic/6 to tune, though its hard to get solid info, as most people were testing stuff out....

RemoLexi
12-18-2012, 07:55 AM
That's max, I talk to him regularly via email. I forgot to add- turbo oil feed line there's a tap on the oil filter housing, I'll confirm the size for u I have it down somewhere. Oil drain you have to remove the oil pan and weld a fitting, look through Paul's (Pagz, aka 23k) pix of his turbo setup. I have a spare oil pan I can sell ya if you don't want your car apart for too long!

I'll confirm the crank signal/ FIC, I have mine at home with the instructions on how to wire it. It's pretty simple.

anf6789
12-18-2012, 01:57 PM
Awesome wasn't sure if he was active anymore in this stuff, good to know you have contact with him! Had a lot of good info.

anf6789
12-18-2012, 01:58 PM
I'm also trying to come up with some other ways for a oil return without touching the pan, ie pumps or something, prob pain in the ass to get that thing out and welded.

Though if its not too much of a hassle ill go the normal route...

RemoLexi
12-18-2012, 03:50 PM
It's the cleanest way to do it. Removing the oil pan can be a bear. Remove the swaybar, unbolt engine mounts, trans mount and jack the motor high as it goes!

anf6789
12-18-2012, 08:23 PM
http://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-On-Demand-Diaphragm-Pump-8000-543-238BX/dp/B0000AXC9B/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1355893490&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=shurflo+oil

boom... easier than driiling a hole and cheaper than those "classy" turbo pumps.
Friend ran this on his rear mount turbo'd trans am. In the C36 the oil will travel 10% of the distance
Oil will drain from turbo, into a small tank below it, pump will do its job and oil will end up somewhere easier ;)

Sometimes complicated is easier to me.... and more fun. I like coming up with solutions to simple problems!

RemoLexi
12-19-2012, 08:00 AM
Just be careful. If that pump takes a shit, your oil reservoir will overflow and could potentially starve your engine of its oil. it is also a good idea not to run the oil drain hose over and above the turbo, even though the oil pressure would keep it flowing- it may clog or back flow into the turbo which actually kills the turbo if hot oil is left inside to cool off- it solidifies and over time your turbos' bearing are no good, you'll get shaft play or even the compressor wheel would lock up against the alum. cold side.

Remember- the worst thing you can do is let hot oil cool off inside the turbo- having a normal drain to the oil pan uses gravity which doesn't fail. ;)

on top of all that, if you hook up an oil pressure gauge, you will see as the RPM's are at idle and the engine is hot your oil pressure drops which may clog this all up.

Get your hands dirty and remove the oil pan!

anf6789
12-19-2012, 08:17 AM
hahah. if i can get my mechanic friend to help me remove it I will. That just puts my car out of commission for longer, and i dont feel like buying another pan lol! Yeah ive done alot of research on the topic over the past couple of days and have seen the drawbacks. I feel like this whole car is full of drawbacks!

I also plan on using a small tank that the oil will gravity drain into then the pump will send it back to the engine, that way any oil that drains back down wont sit in the turbo. also will add a little oil cooler too, take some heat off the pump...ill prob wire in a light to show if the pump dies ect. I like doing things the right way, but sometimes it just doesn't make sense to me lol. If this doesn't work the pan will get tapped....

RemoLexi
12-19-2012, 11:13 AM
The cost of the pump, oil
Lines, fittings, ect or you can buy my oil pan I have as a spare. $50 +shipping.

I'm pulling mine apart in a few days, but I have to remove my transmission to install my new flywheel and clutch set, so I figure I'll pull the motor out and reseal my timing covers while I'm at it. I also need to fabricate a oil baffle for the track. Lucky I have a VW golf I commute to work in

anf6789
12-19-2012, 12:53 PM
Yeah i used to have an extra Isuzu Trooper but my brother took it to school with him. $50 aint bad!

How hard is a headgasket job on these, my car leaks a bit of oil out of the timing cover, and only sometimes there is the slightest bit of oil in coolant tank, (like a drop or two) never vice versa. Maybe ill just pick up a diesel and turbo that bitch lol. fuckin w202's!

regarding the headgasket, if i do end up doing it, should i try to do an upgraded one...like they have on the Turbobandit website...or a cometic sl72 v12 drivers bank (ive heard that is a perfect match) and head bolts, just for reliablilty with a turbo?

or should i just turbo the thing and let it blow itself and then replace it.

RemoLexi
12-19-2012, 01:45 PM
Pulling the head isn't bad, though a couple special tools you will need. It also ties in a valve job (wise to do while your at it) but that alone costs in the ballpark of $700. Also good to replace the timing chian and tensioner while your there, along with the basics- thermostat, coolant, spark plugs ect.

You still have to machine the head so that's ~$100 after cleaning before you can reinstall it.

Hate to break it to you- its probably a lot more oil in the coolant then you'd think.

That thicker gasket may or may not last... I have no opinion on that yet, have not tried it.

If you don't want to at least pull the oil pan off or need help with that I would suggest you messing with a headgasket. If the chain tensioner isn't installed correctly- you snap your exhaust cam in half and bend valves along with stretching the chain. If you were local I'd help ya out. Done about 5-6 M104 heads this last year alone, all were AMG.

anf6789
12-19-2012, 06:46 PM
I'm very mechanically inclined though that's not a cure for laziness, just did all four brakes and coils plugs wires on the c36, myself. have done the belt tensioner/alot else on the c280 and helped a friend change the piston in his ls1. I'm just one of those people if it doesn't have to be done...why do it. My friend is a ford master tech (most of my friends are mechanics, great for me!) and has a e55k he's twin turboing so he helps me with everything. It's not that I can't do the pan, it's more the effort required. Lol. If the HG needs to be changed In the near future I'd do it myself before paying someone. The car cost $2700 not paying someone that to fix it!!' Ill definately be asking you questions when/if I do anything. Your info has been great so far. My mind goes crazy with my weird ideas so always need that... "Nope that's dumb" feedback!

RemoLexi
12-19-2012, 07:54 PM
Yea don't do the oil turbo drain tank and pump idea...

Also dont skip out on monitoring the engine under boost, EGT gauge, boost, oil pressure, wideband air/fuel . That is that step I'm at and I'm looking for a solution to avoid a cluster of gauges everywhere

anf6789
12-19-2012, 08:25 PM
i was actually trying to figure that out too. i know aem has a wideband, egt iphone app type thing. maybe thats your answer to un clutter the gauges

RemoLexi
12-20-2012, 12:47 PM
Yes the AEM x-wifi. But after purchasing the kit + the egt sensor it's over $400. But I guess that's still cheaper then running two cheap made in china gauges

RemoLexi
12-25-2012, 03:03 PM
Did you buy a piggyback yet?

I may sell my AEM F/ic 6 brand new in the box. Complete with software and instructions. Let me know.