Ball seat lug nuts/ Wheel studs

[Vetruck]

I have been searching for days now on this subject. Apparently noone makes an extended ball seat lug nut in our 12mmx1.5 threads.

I have taken these wheels off a few times now and must say I for some reason can not stand trying to fit the wheels back onto the car with the lugbolts- what a stupid design.

I have been looking into wheel studs to replace the lugbolts- found them easy since alot of Spec BMW racing classes us them for quicker pitstops. They are shouldered so you spin the stud into the brakehub down to the collard seat with locktight, then you simply us lug nuts instead.
The 60mm will work good for me- gives me about 1" of exposed threads for lug nut clamping on my new wheels
http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/the-53/M12x1.5-Performance-Studs/Detail

The I could simply go to a ballseat lugnut like this, but the lug holes in my wheels are so deep I am trying to find an extended lightweight racing lugnut that will fit. Aluminum is fine as long as it is long threads and you never use an impact to torque them on.
These are too shallow though and would still be deep in the pockets of the wheel
http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/the-44/12mm-VW--fdsh--Audi/Detail

I want more like these but the seat is not correct and would need a taper/ballseat convertion washer. Those are only made in Vw13mm radius and we are Mercedes12mm radius ball seats- plus the pain in the ass dealing with washers and lugs rather than just lugs.
http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/GOR44037AL.htm

It is really the look I am after as well as safety, so the idea of the wahers rus me the wrong way. Ill probably just end up with studs and the small ball seat lugs. Any other ideas? I want to order these by tomorrow evening if I can not come up with any better solution.
THis is the idea I am after to make the wheel lugs look like the perimeter bolts on the rim:

[Vetruck]

Whoops, I linked the wrong small ballseat lugs up top. I listed the 12mm Vw/Audi ones that have the R13 ballseat size, As stated, we have the R12 size ballseats.

Here are the proper R12 seat 12mmx1.5mm lug nuts
http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/the-60/12mm-Honda-fdsh-Acura-Steel-Lug/Detail

[Vetruck]

Total cost for 20-60mm studs and 20- lugnuts is 97.55 shipped
1375

Most likely Ill just end up doing that for now and work on better lug nuts later if I can find them. This will at least be more safe and easier to work on, those lug bolts are a real PITA and are so deep in the bolt holes of the wheels you can not finger them with these wheels.

I have also seen the extended Mercedes type lug bolts, but those will NOT work for me since the shank portion is still too long and will ground out in the hub prior to proper wheel torquing.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O4LCP6

[Denlasoul]

I hated taking wheels off and putting them on too. UNTIL I discovered the little peg you screw in that guides the wheel into place. It is in your MB tool kit they provide, located by your spare tire.

edit: wheel studs would be cool though.

[Vetruck]

I hated taking wheels off and putting them on too. UNTIL I discovered the little peg you screw in that guides the wheel into place. It is in your MB tool kit they provide, located by your spare tire.

edit: wheel studs would be cool though.


I know about it, I just am not digging it out every time I want to pull a wheel. I just don;t like the idea of not seeing threads. I run open faced lugnuts on every car I have and I like the piece of mind knowing the threads come clear through the nut. You do not have that with the Lug bolts, its a guess how the internal threads look when you remove them repetitively over the years. Wih studs, you can inspect the threads as well as hold the lug nuts up to the light and look through them. This type of OEm lugbolt is never used in racing applications, kind of tells you something- I personally don;t trust the integrity of the way the bolt is machined with the ball head- seems like a stress point to me. Fine for the skinny OEM wheels, but not for wider aftermarket stuff. I feel even better machining them to 1/2" or even 14mm, but makes brake rotor changes in the future a real pain.

WHy am I concerned? If it will happen, Im the guy it will happen to. I have even broken high strength ARP racing studs on another car just from cornering strain. I had two shear off of 5. I could write a novel on battle wounds.

[wichipong]

have you tried radusadirect? thats where i get mine from


http://otisincla.com/

[Vetruck]

have you tried radusadirect? thats where i get mine from


http://otisincla.com/

There website must be down. I was able to briefly get on there this morning but then it shut down and I can get back on. I will look for a link to them on EBAY- I saw something about them having a store on ebay. I think I saw enough though to see they did not have anything special in the way of aftermarket ball seat lugnuts. Just average stuff.

[wichipong]

you're looking for 60mm thread length? i might have 55mm in 12x1.50... i also have some in 14x1.50... i have to check my garage.

[Vetruck]

you're looking for 60mm thread length? i might have 55mm in 12x1.50... i also have some in 14x1.50... i have to check my garage.

Are you talking studs? If so I already ordered some a few days ago. I am looking for extended ballseat lug nuts longer than 27MM- possible about 45-50 mm. No one makes any that I see so I am just going to use regular open end chrome plated lug nuts.

[SLAMMED_C]

What about these....http://www.ezaccessory.com/Lug_Bolt_12mmx1_50_Ball_Seat_45mm_Shank_p/975.htm

[Vetruck]

What about these....http://www.ezaccessory.com/Lug_Bolt_12mmx1_50_Ball_Seat_45mm_Shank_p/975.htm Those are typical LugBOLTs. I can find them all day. Iposted I am looking for extended lugNUTS with ballseats, not conical 60* taper. No one makes them. I must say that the first person that does will be a millionaire. All the Honda S2000's would buy them as well as a few others.

[SLAMMED_C]

Sorry! Didn't read it correctly.
How about these?..... Open end so the threads can come through... http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/the-44/12mm-VW--fdsh--Audi/Detail

Or this if your dead set on extended closed end lug nuts, if you can find extended cone seat lug nuts.. Use this adapter.. http://www.kseriesparts.com/cr/SSR-WHEELWASHER.html

[Vetruck]

Sorry! Didn't read it correctly.
How about these?..... Open end so the threads can come through... http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/the-44/12mm-VW--fdsh--Audi/Detail

Or this if your dead set on extended closed end lug nuts, if you can find extended cone seat lug nuts.. Use this adapter.. http://www.kseriesparts.com/cr/SSR-WHEELWASHER.html

Ive already posted that information too^^^. Those are the wrong lug nuts- they are R13 and not R12...AND those adapter washers are ALSO R13- they do not work with our 12mm R12 wheel sockets.

[SLAMMED_C]

I think you're pretty much SOL.. I'm coming up with nothing. Longest I could find in r12 12mmx1.5 ball seat lug nuts was about 40mm... http://hartmannwheels.com/hardware
Good luck with your search.

[Vetruck]

I think you're pretty much SOL.. I'm coming up with nothing. Longest I could find in r12 12mmx1.5 ball seat lug nuts was about 40mm... http://hartmannwheels.com/hardware
Good luck with your search.

I am not trying to pick on you- I am just percise in my tech info and ask other to do the same. WHy? because people rely on info they read when they spend hard earned money. With that said... This is the 3rd time you have posted something wrong or repetitive in this post- are you not reading? are you hastingly reading and posting info? what is it? You just again posted info that is wrong or misleading. That website DOES NOT have R12 12mmx1.5MM lug NUTS that are 40mm long.

I will please encourage you to slow down and better read a post before you just throw up info that is innacurrate or repetitve to what was already posted- it make you look silly and lack credibility.

Thank you, Dean

[SLAMMED_C]

I am not trying to pick on you- I am just percise in my tech info and ask other to do the same. WHy? because people rely on info they read when they spend hard earned money. With that said... This is the 3rd time you have posted something wrong or repetitive in this post- are you not reading? are you hastingly reading and posting info? what is it? You just again posted info that is wrong or misleading. That website DOES NOT have R12 12mmx1.5MM lug NUTS that are 40mm long.

I will please encourage you to slow down and better read a post before you just throw up info that is innacurrate or repetitve to what was already posted- it make you look silly and lack credibility.

Thank you, Dean

My apologies, I was reading 2 different things from that site. they do have r12 ball seat nuts (locks) that are 30mm, I was reading the r12 ball seat 40mm bolts and combined them.
Im a little too busy with my own life to be reading everything you posted in here thoroughly, I don't often get a lot of time to site down and spend time on club202. I skimmed through to get an idea of what you were looking for and then I searched.
good luck with your search and your mod.

[Vetruck]

they do have r12 ball seat nuts (locks) that are 30mm
OK Then show me where?

[Vetruck]

Im a little too busy with my own life to be reading everything you posted in here thoroughly, I don't often get a lot of time to site down and spend time on club202..

My exact point why I said if you can't post accurate info then might I suggest you stop wasting peoples time. Your FOURTH wrong post in one thread (0 for 4) now tells me you are an idiot. Appology accepted, but I guess I just can't fix stupid.

[nhmercracer]

Having been through this myself, you have to ask yourself an important question. Do you intend to run factory wheels, or aftermarket wheels.

The stud kits (I have one myself, bullet nose extended length hardened rolled thread screw in studs) are all screw in style. there really is not much benefit, other than being able to hang the wheels much easier. Sure it enables you to switch spacers, but how often will you be changing spacers?

Really, to run real press-in studs, the kind with a shoulder, would require all four hubs to be machined. the backface of the hubs is not machined flat from the factory. So to do this "right" would require removal of all four hubs, and a trip to the machine shop. Where to take them? I would only trust a few shops to do this correctly. Strange, or Jegs would be my first and second choices. And while this work is being done, you might as well convert to 14mm (or larger) studs. This will preclude using any early MB 12mm wheels without machine work to the wheels as well. You cannot simply enlarge the holes in the MB wheels as now you would have 14mm holes on a 12mm ball seat. There would be no material left, and the nuts would eventually pull through.

I wanted to use W209 AMG wheels. These wheels use 14mm bolts with a 14mm ball seat radius. I did not want the time or expense of converting to 14mm bolts or studs. To solve this problem, I bought custom (expensive) machined nuts. I can tell you I used Tikore to do this work. they provided me with 14mm ball seat nuts in an extended length, with a 12 x 1.5 mm threading.

Now that I have bought new wheels, these wheel nuts are useless.

Most aftermarket wheels use 60 degree cone nuts. These are easy to source as I'm sure you know.

Be sure you have decided on the wheels you REALLY want before you proceed any further.

[Vetruck]

Having been through this myself, you have to ask yourself an important question. Do you intend to run factory wheels, or aftermarket wheels.

The stud kits (I have one myself, bullet nose extended length hardened rolled thread screw in studs) are all screw in style. there really is not much benefit, other than being able to hang the wheels much easier. Sure it enables you to switch spacers, but how often will you be changing spacers?

Really, to run real press-in studs, the kind with a shoulder, would require all four hubs to be machined. the backface of the hubs is not machined flat from the factory. So to do this "right" would require removal of all four hubs, and a trip to the machine shop. Where to take them? I would only trust a few shops to do this correctly. Strange, or Jegs would be my first and second choices. And while this work is being done, you might as well convert to 14mm (or larger) studs. This will preclude using any early MB 12mm wheels without machine work to the wheels as well. You cannot simply enlarge the holes in the MB wheels as now you would have 14mm holes on a 12mm ball seat. There would be no material left, and the nuts would eventually pull through.

I wanted to use W209 AMG wheels. These wheels use 14mm bolts with a 14mm ball seat radius. I did not want the time or expense of converting to 14mm bolts or studs. To solve this problem, I bought custom (expensive) machined nuts. I can tell you I used Tikore to do this work. they provided me with 14mm ball seat nuts in an extended length, with a 12 x 1.5 mm threading.

Now that I have bought new wheels, these wheel nuts are useless.

Most aftermarket wheels use 60 degree cone nuts. These are easy to source as I'm sure you know.

Be sure you have decided on the wheels you REALLY want before you proceed any further.

I have my wheels, they are the same R12 ball seat as my OEM wheels have.

I have my studs, they are NOT press in, they are screw in shouldered racing studs that are TUV approved. 30 lbs torque and red locktite into the hubs. Simple installation.

I explained why I want studs and not lugbolts. )I want to see exposed threads on the studs through the wheel opening when the wheel is seated on the hub 2) I like to see the wear of the threads on the stud that is exposed , unlike threads that are hidden inside a hub . the hidden threads inside open end lugnuts can be thoroughly inspected by simply holding them up to a light and looking through them to see wear and/or gulling, 3) lastly as stated it simply makes wheel removal and replacement easier and quicker. Unlike most people, I tend to pull my wheels off my car alot more that the average person that just gas and go's. I like to torque my wheels very percisely and evenly to 85 lbs each and every time, not 83, not 86. I have even strain on all studs as a result. I plan to be cornering alot harder that the average bear- history and resume' account for fact.

Lastly, I specifically asked about R12 ball seat lugnuts. If anyone is to lecture anyone on experience- you are barking at the wrong person I am willing to bet big dollars on that. The simple fact I asked for OEM specs shows my experience trumps your attempt to changes things to simply fit another OEM wheel that is not engineered for your car.

I think what you do not realize is this is all about thread wear. When you have a lugbolt, your threadwear is the amount of threads inserted intot he hub which is not much. THis section of threads is constantly torqued and retorqued and will eventually wear. On a stud design, the torqued section of threads is exposed. the threads of the insertd stud into the hub is inserted once and locktite. It will never see wear again on this smaller length section of threads. The new longer wheelstuds can now accept l-o-n-g-e-r lug nuts and THUS.....it distributed the torqued load accross a larger area of threads to reduce wear and maintain safety.

Why do I want studs? not for just ease of wheel replacement or looking cool, not hardly. I want them mainly for safety.

Thank you

Now if anyone else is going to respond? The question I asked about is pertaining to anyone selling longer R12 lugnuts than 27MM ones I currently have.

If anyone wants another option- let me be the one to suggest to you all my next alternative so you see I am far ahead of your ideas I did not ask about- My next best choice will be to take these new wheels down to a machine shop and have them machine the female ballseat down about 2mm on the upper and lower edges and simply make the contact surface area into a conical 60* seat. So any further suggestions are not solicited other than if anyone knows of anyone that sells R12 lug nuts longer than 27mm. Hope we are clear now?

Dean

[nhmercracer]

Right.

You are correct on the thread-wear issue. You are no longer wearing the threads in the hub when you install/remove a wheel bolt. Wheels are easier to remove/install with studs. They look cool for sure.

The problem is they are no safer. Without press in, shouldered studs, you are still saddled with the 5 to 7 thread contact area in the hubs. Red loctite, and a proper torquing will minimize the loosening, but it will still occasionally happen. You need to check every stud every time you remove/install a wheel.

The common zinc plated studs you see online, are usually made in China, and are inferior to the stock bolts. They are made with common alloys, and offer no additional strength. This is a real problem with 12mm studs, which are adequate at best. (MB went to 14mm some time ago)

So you want the hardened alloy studs.

http://imageshack.us/a/img845/4558/px03.jpg

These only come in an acid etched black. This coating offers minimal corrosion resistance. Fine for a track car, but not so much for the street.

But you have sexy studs!! What to do to preserve the sexy?? No sexy, extended closed end, 12mm ball seat nuts in all of JDM-land. Damn.

The solution? Closed end nuts. Custom machined, non corroding, ball seat, closed end, extended length, nuts.

In titanium:

http://imageshack.us/a/img96/5025/ynt7.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img543/1030/cteo.jpg

At $35 each, you know why I asked you which wheel you were SURE you wanted to use.

Where I have been through your predicament, and I know of what I speak, I posted to help you out

[Vetruck]

Let me educate you on your wonderful black studs. They are cheap. The term "Black" when refering to nuts and bolts means a wider inferior tolerance of threads. Companies often up the cost because they look lik

I said again I do not need advice form someone that obvious didn;t know what he was doing and spent a boatload of money on great lug nuts but crappy studs on some OEM wheels not engineered for the car. But I guess you missed that and again are wasting my time reading a post from you that does not answer what I asked for.

You obviously have no clue who I am - do a little search and you will be embarassed who you are trying to "educate"

What you want in a stud is Certified by ISO/TS 16949 and ISO 9001 by TÜV. In order to attain this the manufacturing process of the threads need to be rolled after heat treating.

Look at the threads up close on your typical "black racing studs". They are not J-rolled threads and look very choppy. So you don;t have to actually look, I was a crew cheif on a Craftsman Supertruck NASCAR team - I've done just a few tire changes . My resume, if you want to get into experience pissing matches, goes far beyond that. maybe my 63 class wins in SCCA alone as a driver in a Corvette racecar, or the fact I am a professional driing instuctor for an exotic racing experience cmpany with Ferrari's and Lamborghini's? So yeah, I don't need your arrogant lecture or you'll hear much more of mine on a stupid little post asking if anyone here knows any company that "sells extended ball seat lug nuts"...period.

My pet pieve on car forums is when people do not read what you ask about- and start giving advice that is unsolicited. I just wonder how all the cars with 12mm size studs have survived. Mercedes went to 14 mm to avoid a crappy lugbolt from shearing off at the head when stressed. Studs and bnuts are far better than bolts because the bolt shaft twists when torqued. This puts strain and a ballseat type head because of the 90* point between the shaft and the head- bad design so the upped the mecahincal load properties of it ehn they went to higher performing cars with wider tires- Im getting rid of them entirely and going to stud and nuts to take out that 90* shear point and twist. Its the same reason high compression motors use studs and nuts rather that bolts in top applications. common physics. So lets get back to what I asked. If anyone just wants to search the internet- don;t waste you time, I;'ve been doing that route for over a week now. My question was aasked a week ago if anyone already knew of a company- it appears not.

[Vetruck]

The link above in the first opening statement was just showing typical BMW converion kits that are commonly sold which are the same size threads we use.

For the record, here are the studs I bought:
http://www.motorsporthardware.com/58mm-silver-bullet-nose-race-stud-kit-12x1-5/

[nhmercracer]

I did not mean to offend you.

Everyone here is attempting to help you. Yet you continue to apply a certain attitude of superiority. I am trying to save the you some cash by asking you which wheel you would really like to use. Perhaps I have appeared to talk down to you. I do not.

I have read your suspension posts with great interest. Good stuff.

The studs you purchased are excellent also.

The studs I have utilize cold rolled threads. Chemical blackening is used instead of plating to negate hydrogen embrittlement which can happen during plating.

My main point is you are in the same boat as I was. There is very little available to solve the problem.

Make fun of my "Made in USA" parts. When I think of the money spent on this car, I laugh too. It is nice I have the disposable income to spend on this silly stuff.

Be sure to post your solution to this quandary when you choose your parts.

[Denlasoul]

A little off topic, but could you recommend some lug bolt brands that are of good quality? I need a new set and do not wish to buy junk.

[Vetruck]

Without research, I would only know and trust OEM. When it comes to American car you have the credible companies mcgard and Gorilla etc. I have ARP and Gorilla on all my other stuff so that really all I can 1st hand recommend. Sorry.

On the subject of wheel stud, where people go wrong is by not immediately torquing on their wheels to 85lbs to further stretch the locktite hub threads then wait a day for the locktite to cure.

[Vetruck]

I have an appointment with a guy mid week next week to ake these wheels to a wheel specialist and CNC them the ball socket to an Acorn conical shape for $45 per wheel. He told me over the phone from my description it should not be an issue since I have a 1/2" meat ont he inside of the center bore. he feels its plenty strong with the inside taper about 3/8" and the outside about 1/2"-9 1/16" after machining. he wants to putty them and do a firm measurement though before he does anything to confirm the finished thickness.

This way I can just go Conical lugs with these wheels and keep a few R12 ballseat lugs in a baggie next to the OEM spare tire.

[Vetruck]

...and if everything works fine with the machining- then these are going onto the car to get the same look with the lug nuts as the perimeter rim bolts.
They are also Chrome Vanadium which is alot stronger that aluminum plus highly corrosin resistant, and very light weight (like the high end titanium lugs) but 1/4 the cost and readily availiable for replacement spares if ever needed. I do not like custom made stuff that is one off if I can't make it my self- makes things too hard to replace in a pinch.

If this all works- then I will have the piece of mind I seek for hard cornering with wide gippy tires

http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EM&Product_Code=32906S&Category_Code=L1

[Vetruck]

I puttied the wheel lug holes today and measured just how much would have to be shaved off the ball seat to get the Acorn 60* taper and it would leave me about 1/4" om meat on the inside of the taper...IF, that is IF he macjhines it perfectly It would be less if he is not exact. I do not feel comfortable with that. I will just have to live with steel standard sized R12 ball seat lug nuts- they will work fine. I was looking for the lighter weight stuff, but all in all I have to also remain myself this car will probably never see track use like my other cars- just the occational hard freeway onramp, etc.

I have a friend that just bought a 2009 SL550 with AMG wheels and the lugbolts are set real deep in those pockets also, along with my other buddies 04 Brabus Sl500. At least my studs will fill the bores a little so they are easier to start with fingers rather than deep socketing them.

Lastly, the guy I have lined up to check out machining my wheels on Tuesday has alot of bad yelp.com reviews about scratching peoples wheels and breaking price quote promises- a strong 2nd reason I do not want my brand new rims screwed up by some two bit shady promise. Its the only guy within about 50,miles of me I can find that wants to tackle this job. SOmeone else told me if the wheels were lazer cut then the alloy is hardened from the laser heat around the lug sockets and a good chance they will not machine properly. He told me alot of wheel companies will machine the ball socket to the countersink depth, but them to save on tooling cost and wear they then punch the entire bore of the lugbolt with a laser which hardens the alloy around the seat. WHo knows, but again it is not worth the risk to find out this guy starts something and then can't finish it.

Steel ball seat lug nuts it is. Time to move on to the next task.

[Vetruck]

Just got the standard ol R12 ballseat lug nuts today. Here a boring shot of one of them with a wheelstud. Very nice quality wheelstuds with a white zinc corrosion finish bullnosed race stud. They also have a nice fat collar. Lug nuts? well, lets just say they are lug nuts- they'll work but not the fanciest things on earth. 1410


Just also placed my order for my rear two tires as well as my spring choice. Spring are cheap, so I figured I would first try a set of H&R Sport springs (1.4"f/1.3"r) made for a heavier nosed c280 (I have the 200lb lighter C220) and I decided to keep the flat top springs of my year rather than the later helix design-why? well if I do end up deciding later to fab a weightjack system I have flat springs to sit into the pockets of the screw jacks. Like I sdsaid though, springs are cheap so I will experiment with these for rate and ride height first to see what I have.

Tires? I already have 4 60% tread BFG KDW2's (215-40-18's) off another car that was totaled less than a year ago (Fiancee was in a bad accident in her last car- Not her fault) so I am salvaging those for fronts on the 18x8.5" wheels I have and just ordered new KDW2's (245-35-18's) for the rear 18x 9.5 wheels. When the fronts wear out, and the rears are still half treadlife- I will put the other used fronts I have on- makes sense to me ;)

[Vetruck]

Thngs are getting closer. Got my metal valvestems today and my new rear BFG's. youc an see the old 4 I have on other wheels from another car I had (about 60% tread left on those 215-40-18's) so they will go on the new front wheels. The tire next to the rear of the car is the new 245/35-18 rears.

1417

Springs and a few other goodies will be here monday. I have half my rear camber arms ordered, I need to order the rodends still- will get to that next week since I will not have time to mess with this car 9lowering wise) for at least a week. I had an emergency TB repair I just had to order so its temporarily down pending that part arriving tomorrow...I hope. I am going to be real busy next week so I hope I can get this thing up and running this weekend. I was hoping to get the tires mounted tomorrow but thats not going to happen becasue I have to do the TB work first- then if I have time also I will mess with the new sunroof angle guide on the left side.

[Vetruck]

Just also placed my order for my rear two tires as well as my spring choice. Spring are cheap, so I figured I would first try a set of H&R Sport springs (1.4"f/1.3"r) made for a heavier nosed c280 (I have the 200lb lighter C220) and I decided to keep the flat top springs of my year rather than the later helix design-why? well if I do end up deciding later to fab a weightjack system I have flat springs to sit into the pockets of the screw jacks. Like I said though, springs are cheap so I will experiment with these for rate and ride height first to see what I have.


Springs just arrived. I am still waiting mainly on my new TB right now- However, when I get more time I will document both the OEM springs I have as well as the new ones I just recieved as for heights, diameters, active coils, wire thickness, and thus rate comparison. THese are H & R springs (I opted for early design to keep the flat top spring shape in case in the future I ever want to go to weight jacker it will sit nicely on the top perch). I have a c220 4 cylinder car, but these are for the heavier nosed C280 car. I want the front stiff and the rear a little lighter in lateral rates- if I then need more balance I will only up the rear swaybar. I have plans to keep the front swaybar OEM for great ride quality and firm up body roll with the stiffer spring rates and koni shocks. Im doing a little experimenting, so if I do not like the feel then I will try a different set of springs. Using these for now to see if it will work for what I am after rideheight and rate wise.1421

[Vetruck]

Back to this project after my unexpected throttle body hiatus.

Had to grind my new meatl valve stems just a tad in diameter at the base washer to slip fit into the wheel cavity, then used rubber cement (like the kind you get in a bike innertube repair kit) on both inside and outside rubber groumets, then put just one of the two inside fastening nuts on with red perminant locktite. Why only 1 nuit on the inside of the wheel? becasue I want it light as possible so I use less weights to balance the wheels.

Next step is to take them over to an acquaintance of mine and see if he can quickly spin all four wheels (only the rims without tires) on his machine to see how true they are in weights. I will mark any that are off and take them home and grind them a little if any one of them is bad. Then its time to mount the tires on them.

[Vetruck]

Aluminum rear jam nuts and camber links arrived today. I need to order the rod ends from Qa1 still. The jam nuts are color coded with the normal right hand threads in red and the left hand thread ones in blue- makes for ease of figuring which goes which way a year down the road when you kindof forget and have to try and look at grimmy threads.1432