Twintube Koni shox received

[kowalski]

so I got my Koni's on Wensday,

checking their label, they were freshly squeezed out from Koni's vulva, manufactured week 11 and week 13 - 2013.
It feels great having new stock shox!

I wonder if Koni had any issues with the twintube shox?
Can anyone confirm any issues with leaks or other problems?

Time to make an appointment with my Master MB tech for suspension upgrade.

Previously I have fitted adjustable camber arms, should I go for adjustable toe in arms aswell?


I will do a write up when everything is in place.

[Vetruck]

Just got my Koni rears yesterday also- Monotubes though. Congrats on your new shocks, you'll love them> koni's are known for quality and longevity- you will not have any issues with leaks. I love your quote: new stock shocks- I think you mean new Inventory shocks- because they are hardly stock/OEM...lol.

I have my monotubes set on 2 (adjustment clicks are 0,1,2, & 3. Had the fronts on 1, but moved them up to 2. Car feels better with less roll and the rear stays down better under hard braking.

[kowalski]

thanks man, I'm now am a proud father of 4 Koni shox.
should have bought a Cohiba to enjoy the delivery.

I don't quite understand, why some people say Koni's being softer than factory Bilstein's but their ride is harsh?
I need an explanation for this question as I don't understand the equation?
Are Koni's bad stuff, should I have bought factory Billie's instead?
my price for 4pcs of Koni's was total €494.98 euros including shipping to Sweden from Germany.
Swedish stealership charge approx €450 euros for 1 rear shock!
Don't need to be a math wizzard to know what shox to buy for less money.

please forgive me for my poor english.
yes, that's what I ment to say, I told german shop http://www.sandtler24.de/ that I wanted new fresh Koni's not old stock sitting on shelve collecting dust, I wasn't sure if Koni had previous issues with these twins, getting latest version is always the best.

I will have my tech do the adjustable settings on twintubes, is it good driving on full 3 lock?
If using constant full 3 set up, does it wear out the shock faster?

w202 is quite heavy!
my front nose dive and bodyroll is it going to be reduced with lowering springs and Koni shox?

I've added some heavy options like power rear blind on my car, undercoating rust protection, US option cd-changer metal cover, some plastic VDO gauges and some other small stuff, I will also in the near future install new C32/C55 calipers and 345mm rotors, factory fire extinguisher, all these fitted parts, my car will be heavier than factory specs.
maybe I should get a 5.4 liter to gain performance what I lost in added weight?

however I will remove the centre silencer and 2ndery cats this way I will slim my car for minimum of 25 kilos.
euro version C43's are better equipped with options which US version C43's lax.
my car is a bit chunkier than a US C43

[kowalski]

I don't drive my car during winter season.
with new shox fitted should I pile up my car with wodden logs,
avoiding my shox getting stuck in one position from 6 months of winterstorage?

[Vetruck]

Koni's are the best over the counter shock you can buy. The Bilstein fans have never used Koni- Ive used both extensively on race tracks and street. Koni's are hands down a better performance shock. THey have not only an adjustable range of rebound, they have a higher range of rebound dampering which is what controls body roll.

You Konis are gas charged shocks. They will be fine sitting in one position for months, or on a shelf, etc. They have a lifetime warranty.

you will have to install them and dial them to try em. Start at low setting and turn the knobs about 1 full turn with twintubes- you should get about 2 5/8 full turns to max. If you put too much rebound into the shock the wheels will not return to the ground as fast and the suspension can cause what is called "jacking down" effect which makes the car ride very firm and can skip or slide the tires under hard braking. If this occurs then simply back down the settings. max is probaly too much rebound unless you really have high spring rates and are on a tight autox type course with lots of chassis movement under extreme braking and accelerating. Higher speed stuff does not throw the chassis around as abusively as hard low spoeed tight turn stuff does.

you will not wearout your Koni's- they will easily last you 100,000 miles plus of hard use. They will last me 20 years on my street car under normal daily use.

[kowalski]

thanks for the update mate.
i think my koni's will last forever because i don't drive my car everyday, it sits most of the time in my garage.
that's what i was worried about if my shox gets stuck in one position?

settings 1 - 2 might be good for daily drive, depending on my liking and disliking?

i asked the shop where i bought my koni's, they told me i only have 2 years warranty, is it lifetime warranty in USA?

[Vetruck]

Yes Koni is lifetime warranty here. Always has been.

I have my montubes on #2. which is 3rd highest out of 4 in firmness of rebounnd damper. Yours should not be clicks, twintubes are a dial where you do not need to press the detent buttom on the top base of the body.

Also- I figured out the toe links. Check my "Ultimate suspension" thread.

[kowalski]

if there are clicks on your monotubes, how do i feel each bump 0-3 on twintubes when turning the knob for stiffer settings?
there must be a bump for each settings on twintubes?

i checked your toe links info, thanks
i just remembered, i can measure my stock toe in arms and bolt holes for exact size, but that will be in CM, hope you can convert CM to inch?

[shizzy]

I have the yellow Konis and I absolutely love em. I use to rub on my 20s until i added these.

[Vetruck]

if there are clicks on your monotubes, how do i feel each bump 0-3 on twintubes when turning the knob for stiffer settings?
there must be a bump for each settings on twintubes?

i checked your toe links info, thanks
i just remembered, i can measure my stock toe in arms and bolt holes for exact size, but that will be in CM, hope you can convert CM to inch?

What it is on the monotubes is a detent buttonlike I already stated above. You press the detent button sown and turn the shaft which ever way (clockwise to raise, counter to lower) slowly until the detent button clicks back up into place. You then do it again if you want to move more. In essence, you will have to repeat this 3 times to go from 0 setting to #3 setting and vicsa versa.

On the twin tubes, Koni uses a different design valve since it is about half the size. This valve has to spin alot more revolutions to open and close the rebound force. As aagain I stated already above, the settings on my last set of twin tubes turned 2 5/8 revolutions ( almost 3 full rotations. The monotubes from #0 to #3 settings is only about half a revolution from low to high.

On the twin tubes, you simply need to set them at lowest setting and then COUNT the amount you turn them by lets say 1/4 turn increments so that both sides remain the same. If you turn lets say the left front 1 3/4 turns, then do the identical to the right front. Same with the rears- side to side the valve settings should always match on a street car. Fronts to rears can be different based on driving characteristics of the car. If the car is har to turn? then try a little more rear rebound to hold tte inside rear wheel and help the car rotate under hard braking into a corner.

The rear toe links are aporx 9.6" or aporx 24.5 cm. The chassis side mount width is 1 3/4" or 4.4 cm

I put all of the measurements up already. All you need to do is google "inches to cm" and put in the figures.
The toe arm mount on the chassis side is a cam bolt design- meaning it can rotate the oblong bolt to pull the hub in or push it out. Even thought the bolt is 1/2", the holes underneath there are probably more like 3/4" . This is how the toe is adjusted on an OEM car. The new toe links will jus thave both mounts locked down solid and the adjustment is no longer made with a cam bolt- it will then be made by rotateing the link arm shorter or longer in the opposing rod end threads. Yoou twist the link to shorten or lengthen the distance and then lock down to clamps on the link arm once set. You will never again ahve to adjust the cam bolt mount.

[kowalski]

it seems like twintubes are difficult to find the exact finetune between both front and rear shox when adjusting with the knob?
I'll have my mechanic find out the correct settings, I think I will never touch the adjustment as it seems to be difficult finding each and correct settings?
I'm affraid I will fu-k em' up if I turn the knob?