Full race DIY adjustable camber links

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[Dearlove]

interesting, may look into this if i ever pull it off the road

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[kowalski]

I finally took a shot of them with my cell phone. I need to buy a new digital camer because I wasted my GoPro a few weeks ago.
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lookin' dope man!
next on the list are the toe-links?

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[John Jones Jr.]

On a serious note, I really feel like I can crack the rear subframe if I press this car hard for a day.

Indeed you could. Not unknown at all for W202 subframes to crack, W201's as well.

[kowalski]

weak construction on rear subframe?

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[kowalski]

cool maan, keep us updated with your progress

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[John Jones Jr.]

No reverse threads/left hand threads, it's not uncommon to have to cut them out and even if you did manage to remove the nuts it very possible you wouldn't be able to remove the bolt without cutting. In actual fact you could hammer away at it and just end up bending the chassis - seen this happen.

[John Jones Jr.]

The lower control arms are mounted to the rear suspension subframe in double shear (meaning it fits inbetween two mount ears). The front mount ear is a solid lateral panel, but the rear ears om both sides are hanging down with no lateral support when the tire force exerts pressure inward upon the control arm bolt. The rear mount ear flexes towrads the other side.

Adding a sinmple lateral brace will help support the loaded ear from the opposite rear mount ear bolt. I need to reroute my exhaust (will be building a custom setup in the near future (next on my list) and then I will simply add longer rear control arm bolts ou thte backside of the subframe and attach a lateral brace from trailing arm tubing and rod ends. It will have a very slight rpeload outward to take up slop and then locked down to that length with the jam nuts.

Below is a pic of the subframe, and then the same pic with a lateral brace supporting the rear ears.
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It's well known that W202 (& W201's) sub frames do crack, might be worth doing a bit of research on the net for a few photos. Consider some extra welded in bracing (using rebar or similar) and rewelding the original joints too?

[nhmercracer]

You're not trying to turn the bolt, correct? The bolts are designed not to turn. Remove the nut, and push the bolt out. Turning the bolts damages the mounting tabs.

Otherwise, maybe some heat? Might cook the bushings,but if you're replacing them then why not.

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[Dearlove]

I know what you mean by the 'squirminess' under braking, a lot of people have commented about this especially on the c36 (heavier nose)

I'm not a suspension guru o i plan on taking it to my local suspension shop and telling them to what I'm after but it'll be good to know the figures you end up getting so i can give them something to work off

[John Jones Jr.]

Best way I can describe this car is on mild or hard braking corner setup (not yet corner entry) the car's nose will wander on road grooves

Mine wanders a bit thanks to worn front lower wishbone bushes.

[John Jones Jr.]

[QUOTE=Vetruck;183719] I used heaver rate 280 springs up front on my lighter 220.


What springs have you got fitted on the rear now?

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[John Jones Jr.]

Maybe, when you get your car's handling to a stage you're reasonably happy with, if you wouldn't mind posting up the complete specifications, parts & settings too?

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[John Jones Jr.]

THat is actually what I am doing .

O.k., so. Your the Boss man!

[w202_c220]

lame, vetruck sucks