Dearlove
08-22-2013, 09:22 AM
From another topic that was, well, off topic. How ever I'd liked the discussion
If your in the US, mobil 1 is junk.
If your Mobil 1 is made in Germany then you're good.
The Mobil we in the states get is not full synthetic as advertised. It's diluted. Garbage.
I run Pentosyn real full synthetic, Made in Germany. Not sold in stores.
I have seen these arguement before on the internet. You are getting your info from a bunch of internet hype not knowing why the oil used is not good. The problem you have is you state dyou are using 0w40 which is a mild range viscosity that is used for cold engine wear and low friction milage. You take that on a race track and the elevated heat levels thin it out- THUS the encapsulated sludge particals suspended in oil (tht's the basic importance of oils to grab and suspend foreign particles inside your engine) will start to contact again when the oil gets hotter than the intended use range. You need to run a 15w50 and Mobil1 works great. What you also need to do is use an engine treatment for the cold engine startups, not an oil treatment, and engine treatment. one that impregnates into metal surfaces---IE Prolong, slick50, etc.
Mobil1 has been around for decades and has been the industry leader. The product levels they make and sell are best in each group when it comes to price and quality. Are there better things out there? yes, but at what cost AND at what need? You are not running a 24hour LeMans. THose oils made for that type of racing would be terrrible for logevity and continual cold start engines. Alot of those "super racing formulas" are preheated and put into the engine before the engine is fired. The Mobil1 15w50 with an engine treatment assistance will give you a 500k mile engine that can be abused. It is what I used every day int he life of "vetruck" along with Polytron. I pulled that motor out at 640,000 miles and repplaced it just because I had the money and timing was right- I was just getting worried the rings "'had to be going soon"- when I pulled the motor apart out of curiousity before I turned it in for a core refund, I was amazed on how great it looked inside. I abused the hell out of that motor in a 5000 lb truck with pauload after payload, tons of racetrack fun days messing around in it, and many high speed Vegas runs, Palms Springs, Mexico, and Santa Babara+ area blasts in those 20 years I guarantee setting trip records. I do not go anywhere slow when I get open road.
I do currently have Royal Purple in the motor of the truck only because a sponsor gave me it for free, but that's coming out soon and being replaced again by Mobil1 15w50. I don't change only on a milage interval, I replace it when it starts to get dirty looking whether that is 1K miles or 9K miles.
edit to add- Here is Polytron. This is in fact the best lubrication in the world. It is better tha Prolong, slick50, all of them. I personally have done lab type load bearing test with every one of them and have first hand seen the results of my own personal testing. As stated, my very good family friend Michael is the gentleman that first brought this stuff to the US from Russia a few decades ago. I dam near broke his machine trying to put enough load on the bearing to get some wear indications. I have been using this stuf for 20 years as an additive. it is used once in each motor.
https://www.polytrondirect.com/
I just called a buddy on this that is a motor building expert (someone with a very famous father)...
Bill just told me that these oils are now made by a process called Hydrocracking and are dirived from a group 4 base oil. Full synthetics are lab developed and are catagorized as group5 base. His told me even though the process is different, in the end they are very much them same in function. The only ones still using lab techniques are Royal Purple and Amsoil- and both are very costly but do noting better so "don't waste your money kid"(his quote to me.
I learned what I poseted in my first response from him several years ago about using a motor oile that will not thin down with heat too much as to not be able to protect surfaces from the debris it is suspending. Synthetic oils flow better, so you can use thicker synthetics than you can with conventional oils.
Ill take this discussion a little further and also teach you guys that you should NEVER put a synthetic oil into a brand new engine. You will not properly seat the rings. You should always use a high zinc level oil that protects and lubricates at a higher level that conventional oils because of the high levels of zinc and phosporus, but will still allow for enough good wear at temp to seat the engine componants- mainly the rings and cylinder walls for a good seal. Then you drain it after a 1000 miles (I replace it again for another 2000 as I start occationally ramping up the engine rpm use) then I replace it with synthetic. I have done this with two motors and they have lastest an eternity. Every other engine I bought (used cars) I have had not such good luck with internal parts such as timing chains, etc because the first part of their life they wear not pampered with good products and break in procedures.
Here's an example of a high zinc break-in oil ... again, never use a synthetic on a new motor.
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/lucas-oil-products-10635/?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adword&utm_content=pla&gclid=CNL03d29kbkCFchxQgodKyQATQ
If your in the US, mobil 1 is junk.
If your Mobil 1 is made in Germany then you're good.
The Mobil we in the states get is not full synthetic as advertised. It's diluted. Garbage.
I run Pentosyn real full synthetic, Made in Germany. Not sold in stores.
I have seen these arguement before on the internet. You are getting your info from a bunch of internet hype not knowing why the oil used is not good. The problem you have is you state dyou are using 0w40 which is a mild range viscosity that is used for cold engine wear and low friction milage. You take that on a race track and the elevated heat levels thin it out- THUS the encapsulated sludge particals suspended in oil (tht's the basic importance of oils to grab and suspend foreign particles inside your engine) will start to contact again when the oil gets hotter than the intended use range. You need to run a 15w50 and Mobil1 works great. What you also need to do is use an engine treatment for the cold engine startups, not an oil treatment, and engine treatment. one that impregnates into metal surfaces---IE Prolong, slick50, etc.
Mobil1 has been around for decades and has been the industry leader. The product levels they make and sell are best in each group when it comes to price and quality. Are there better things out there? yes, but at what cost AND at what need? You are not running a 24hour LeMans. THose oils made for that type of racing would be terrrible for logevity and continual cold start engines. Alot of those "super racing formulas" are preheated and put into the engine before the engine is fired. The Mobil1 15w50 with an engine treatment assistance will give you a 500k mile engine that can be abused. It is what I used every day int he life of "vetruck" along with Polytron. I pulled that motor out at 640,000 miles and repplaced it just because I had the money and timing was right- I was just getting worried the rings "'had to be going soon"- when I pulled the motor apart out of curiousity before I turned it in for a core refund, I was amazed on how great it looked inside. I abused the hell out of that motor in a 5000 lb truck with pauload after payload, tons of racetrack fun days messing around in it, and many high speed Vegas runs, Palms Springs, Mexico, and Santa Babara+ area blasts in those 20 years I guarantee setting trip records. I do not go anywhere slow when I get open road.
I do currently have Royal Purple in the motor of the truck only because a sponsor gave me it for free, but that's coming out soon and being replaced again by Mobil1 15w50. I don't change only on a milage interval, I replace it when it starts to get dirty looking whether that is 1K miles or 9K miles.
edit to add- Here is Polytron. This is in fact the best lubrication in the world. It is better tha Prolong, slick50, all of them. I personally have done lab type load bearing test with every one of them and have first hand seen the results of my own personal testing. As stated, my very good family friend Michael is the gentleman that first brought this stuff to the US from Russia a few decades ago. I dam near broke his machine trying to put enough load on the bearing to get some wear indications. I have been using this stuf for 20 years as an additive. it is used once in each motor.
https://www.polytrondirect.com/
I just called a buddy on this that is a motor building expert (someone with a very famous father)...
Bill just told me that these oils are now made by a process called Hydrocracking and are dirived from a group 4 base oil. Full synthetics are lab developed and are catagorized as group5 base. His told me even though the process is different, in the end they are very much them same in function. The only ones still using lab techniques are Royal Purple and Amsoil- and both are very costly but do noting better so "don't waste your money kid"(his quote to me.
I learned what I poseted in my first response from him several years ago about using a motor oile that will not thin down with heat too much as to not be able to protect surfaces from the debris it is suspending. Synthetic oils flow better, so you can use thicker synthetics than you can with conventional oils.
Ill take this discussion a little further and also teach you guys that you should NEVER put a synthetic oil into a brand new engine. You will not properly seat the rings. You should always use a high zinc level oil that protects and lubricates at a higher level that conventional oils because of the high levels of zinc and phosporus, but will still allow for enough good wear at temp to seat the engine componants- mainly the rings and cylinder walls for a good seal. Then you drain it after a 1000 miles (I replace it again for another 2000 as I start occationally ramping up the engine rpm use) then I replace it with synthetic. I have done this with two motors and they have lastest an eternity. Every other engine I bought (used cars) I have had not such good luck with internal parts such as timing chains, etc because the first part of their life they wear not pampered with good products and break in procedures.
Here's an example of a high zinc break-in oil ... again, never use a synthetic on a new motor.
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/lucas-oil-products-10635/?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adword&utm_content=pla&gclid=CNL03d29kbkCFchxQgodKyQATQ