1999 C280 on 18inch Monoblocks (18x8 and 18x9). Need suspension suggestions [Archive]

BolivianFuego

03-26-2015, 09:07 PM

Hey guys,

I am looking for suggestions on which route to go. I have the 18inch Monoblocks in 18x8 in front and 18x9 in rear.

215/40-18 Front
245/35-18 Rear

I am getting the wheels refinished soon. They had some bends in them and were curbed.

Pics of the wheels.

http://i.imgur.com/fOLAg0N.png

Front wheels
http://i.imgur.com/ahDFD4n.png

Back wheels
http://i.imgur.com/raGj1QW.png

http://i.imgur.com/fUsQbug.png

http://i.imgur.com/hCClbzo.png

http://i.imgur.com/8TV52kl.png

The goal is to have a drop like this. I am thinking of H&R sport springs with Bilstein shocks,no pads in the front and #1 in the rear. Having no pad on the front won't cause any issues, will it?

http://i.imgur.com/8YUri7z.png

http://i.imgur.com/Vz0Adkr.png

http://i.imgur.com/PcEO1H3.png

http://i.imgur.com/n24QM5A.png

BolivianFuego

03-26-2015, 09:17 PM

Forgot a pic of my baby. Was going to add it in the original post but I've exceeded limit of pics. :)

http://i.imgur.com/tlwOili.png

Auxive

03-27-2015, 05:46 AM

What kind of suggestions do you need?

BolivianFuego

03-27-2015, 06:44 AM

What kind of suggestions do you need?

Looking for suspension recommendation to match the drop on the cars I posted in the first post.

I am thinking H&R Sport with Bilstein shocks and no pad on the front and #1 in the rear.

What do you guys think?

I was thinking H&R Cup but the drop looked to be a bit too low.

And how strong on the Monoblocks to bends? I am scared after I get them fixed they'll get bent again easily.

After the snow around here there's a ton of potholes (which I do a great job of avoiding but sometimes it's impossible to completely avoid one).

wichipong

03-28-2015, 08:57 PM

h&R Sports with biltein sports is the best combination for me imho...

Vetruck

03-29-2015, 09:33 AM

If it were my car (being a 1999 C280 6 cylinder) I would definitey opt for the 1999 C43 H&R Supersport springs. Why? These cars need a little more front spring rate to reduce nose dive under hard braking. The V8 spring on the 6 cyl car will of course sit just a tad higher, but the Supersport spring is lower on a C43 then the Sport spring is on the same C43. Overall it should sit very close in ride height to the C280 Sport spring but giving a little higher needed front spring rate.

Koni's are a better shock due to higher (and adjustable) rebound damper rates. TireRack currently has Koni's on sale. Rebound rate controls body roll into corners.

Edit to add- I have the same principal on my1994 C220 4cyl. I used 6 cyl springs on it. (H&R). The front of the car's have different weights due to engine weight(so heavier spring rates to compensate for heavier engines), but the rears of the cars are all pretty much the same. You can adjust with spring pad height if the rear is too low for liking. I used the H&R kit for a 95 C36 on my 94 C220.

BolivianFuego

03-29-2015, 10:25 AM

Thanks for the advice!

Where is the best place to get springs from? Right now I am only relying on Ebay.

Vetruck

03-29-2015, 10:30 AM

Thanks for the advice!

Where is the best place to get springs from? Right now I am only relying on Ebay.

Tirerack.com (not necessarily the best, but a good source)

I also added info in my last post in an edit(just in case you did';t see that)

Dean

The heavier front springs keeps a car from potential rubbing tires against fender also as well as lessening nose dive under braking.

BolivianFuego

03-30-2015, 07:28 AM

Thanks! To beperfectly honest, I am not looking for a rough ride. This car is just made to cruise/be my daily driver but look good while doing it. :)

From what I hear, these wheels shouldn't rub at all in the front.

Any suggestion on pads? I saw a guy who had no wheel gap with his H&R sport springs had no pad on the front.

Koni's too I hear are the best performancce bang for the buck but can be a bit bouncy? I may just go with Bilstein since performance isn't a big issue for me. Thoughts?

Vetruck

03-30-2015, 09:07 AM

An OEM replacement Koni is by far a better damper on anything then the equivalent OEM replacement Bilstein. Not to say a Bilstein is not a nice damper- they are. Koni has a better performance range in rebound settings. Rebound is the critical side of any damper. Bilsteins are fixed. You have what you get. Koni you can adjust to fit your need. Compression rates are very compatible on both.When a Koni is on sell the price difference is very compatable. Rare they are on sale, but are right now. I would highly recommend jumping on that..

Pad choice will need to be made after spring and shock install. You will need to see what result is on your individual car with your car's individual weight based on options etc. Also wheel choice and alignment settings can and will change ride height based on leverage . If the camber is not corrected, the spring can ride a little higher then if the tire footing is flat on the ground and weight center line is further from suspension pivot point. You should ALWAYS make spring pad choice after just trying what you have first and seeing results before making alteration measurements. No shortcuts.

As for ride quality, My Brabus was built for and is mainly driven daily by my wife. She has no complaints about any harsh ride and actually likes it much better then the crap nose dive it did every time she had to hit the brakes a little harder than normal. She feels much more secure and stable at freeway speeds and tools around surface streets on her daily outings as well.

The car is still too soft for me, But I am used to hardcore race cars.- but I built it for her safety and comfort. It also seems that before I built mine, everything I was researching and watching video's, pic, etc that was low within 1" of the fenders all have rubbing issues at one situation or another. I will never rub- and you can quote me on that.

Vetruck

03-30-2015, 09:17 AM

There is one annoying issue on my car though- It is the rubber subframe bushings have a "weird" feel to the car. I had a racing buddy in the back seat of the car the other night going to dinner with friends- He said to me I feel something but I can't quite put my finger on what feels "funny" to me? He said the car has a funny little bobble shimmy in the rear, but it doesn't really feel like suspension?

I turned around and said- The rear suspension subframe attaches to the car with rubber bushings.

He Nodded as to comfirm yep, that's it.

I need to change those as well as I think new motor mounts are in order for this car real soon.

My point is, when you upgrade anything, the motion goes into the next weakest link. Whether that be poor tire sidewall quality, suspension bushings, Shocks, or even go as far as metal flexing in the case of my rear subframe when I loaded it into a corner. I would get a severe bobble flex that mostly went away when I built a custom rear subframe brace to box the rear link arms in the cage.

Vetruck

03-30-2015, 09:26 AM

So you can reference my ride heights, I will upload the pic on here (I have it in other posts as well as a few videos if you search under my name)
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BolivianFuego

03-30-2015, 10:11 AM

BolivianFuego

03-30-2015, 10:22 AM

How does it work with these wheels and lugs? Will the stock lugs from my C280 work? Or do I need to get new ones?

Vetruck

03-30-2015, 10:32 AM

Thank you for the input!!

What springs are you using? And with the Koni's, there's 'suspension travel' adjustability?

Would that also play a part in how low I can go? Again--I am just looking for Spring/Shock kit to lower for looks and comfort. Not going to Auto-X this car or take ot to the road race track.

Can the spring pad be toggled/switched after springs are on, or will the springs need to be taken off in order to switch them out (sorry newb Q')?

Here's what tirerack has going on for my car. Not bad pricing, but about the Koni's are almost still 200 bucks more.

http://i.imgur.com/vciPoqT.png

When you lower the car, you will loose factory alignment adjustment. You will need to build rear caster arms, AND if you go lower then about a 1" drop from stock you will need to install KMAC eccentric bushings up front in the A-arms to be able to eliminate the massive negative camber that develops when the car is lowered a lot like you see mine in the picture. Without his your ride will be a handfull with the car wandering all over the road catching road grooves because of the 2.0+ negative front camber. You want the front camber not to exceed about -0,7 static, Perferably only about -0.4 static if it's a cruiser.

I listed my springs in an above post. I used 1995 C36 H&R springs onto a 1994 C220.

I also opted for Koni 15XX series Monotube shocks for the lighter unsprung weight. The draw back is having to remove them from the car to make adjustments. You would probably much prefer-as most people do- to buy the 13XX series Konis so you can make adjustments without removing anything from the car. They are twin tube and a little heavier which is less desirable for optimum ride quailty and racing by a VERY SMALL MARGIN- but I go for ultimate and do not mind removing parts to adjust-Its what I do every weekend in racing.

You will pretty much need to buy the Mercedes spring removal kit. Once you own this, taking springs in and out in literally a 10 min job on each wheel. Without it? it can take you all day. It depends what a day is worth to you. I, like many others here, own the kit and find it well worth the cost rather than paying someone else to install or fighting an install for a full day. The pads will require a partial spring removal (but at that point the spring is compressed you might as well just pull it out the 30 seconds longer that takes.)

All the other parts you will need and have custom installed are going to cost a lot more than the springs and shocks- just so you know. Lowering a car takes a lot of money to do things correct otherwise the car will not drive properly and you will loose comfort and controllablility at speed with it darting back and forth on road imperfections. Save your money until you can do things correctly, Otherwise I promise you that you will regret it if you go too low without the correction alignment parts.(IE KMAC, and rear camber arms installed.

BolivianFuego

03-30-2015, 11:01 AM

Gotcha.

Is this the tool?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=181698320340

Rear camber kit?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=301561247928

I wasn't able to find the bushings for the front on ebay. Do you have a link? And will those need to be machine pushed in? Or is the install not so bad?

I got the money, don't get me wrong--just trying to make sure I am doing it all right.

Can you also clarify which suspension is which on the Koni's?

Since this is just going to be a cruiser, is it just OK to get the bilsteins? They have two versions. I am assuming the touring version fits my needs better as this car will never get auto-x'd.

http://i.imgur.com/yQGQiMs.png

With the money I am probably going to put in for camber kit/alignment, I am better off just saving some loot on struts.

Auxive

03-30-2015, 12:33 PM

When lowering a car, it all depends on what you're looking for.
I dropped it on H&R Super Sports and I never once messed with camber alignment. I prefer to have a little bit more camber when it's lowered 2", plus cut an extra 0.5". I personally like the look.
Yes it does wear your tyres faster and yes it isn't the best idea, but I wouldn't go heads over heals to change the alignment right away. If I were you'd I'd spend more money on the struts and not worry about the camber too much. You can get a camber bolt adjustment kit that will not completely re-align your car, but it will take some of that unwanted wear from your tyres for relatively cheap.

Vetruck

03-30-2015, 03:32 PM

BolivianFuego

03-30-2015, 06:25 PM

Thanks!

I don't think I will be cutting the springs, but instead going for probably the lowest pads I can put in there.

Were my tirerack screen caps taken down? If so, why?

And the Bilstein shocks--as listed above, should I just go for the touring shocks? I am just looking for a comfy ride and little to no wheel gap all around.

Is the lowest springs offered the H&R Sports? I also will want a camber kit most likely because tires weren't cheap for the Monoblock 18s. Rather get a camber kit than a new set of tires with in 10k miles.

Vetruck

03-30-2015, 09:45 PM

Were my tirerack screen caps taken down? If so, why?

I didn't moderate out anything from your post ???

As for advice on Bilstiens, I'll let others give recommendations. I already gave my opinion. Koni's are expensive for a reason. Very high quality. I would compare those Touring class Bilsteins to a cousin of a Monroe. They are not performance oriented at all. The other "Performance" ones are equivilent to a Koni Red at best. I can almost promise you if you put the proper H&R sport spring for you application and a TOuring shock with a #1 spring pad your tires will rub under hard braking and cornering. I know my car would and it is a little higher then what you are describing height wise.

I just do not want to see you make a mistake and waste money on something that is not going to be firm enough to control wheel movement with the car that low.

BolivianFuego

03-31-2015, 06:26 AM

Weird! It's not showing up on my ipad--but it is on my iphone.

Thanks for the input on the touring vs the sport. To be honest, I am trying to put as little money as I can on this car/setup because this is just a daily that I want to look good. The most hard braking and corner she will receive is on a highway lol.

Really do appreciate your input though. It's been phenomenal. To reference your pic above--what # pad do you have all around?

Anyone care to input on the Bilsteins?

BolivianFuego

03-31-2015, 06:36 AM

Forgot to add--Can anyone please clarify if My 18inch Monoblocks will work with my stock C280 lug bolts?

Vetruck

03-31-2015, 06:57 AM

Do me a favor. Tie a zip tie around your current front shock shaft and push it down on top of the shock body. Then go drive around normal for 30 mins and measure how far off the shock body that zip tie is pushed. That is you suspension travel.

What you are talking about using is just as soft and will ground out in travel.

Vetruck

03-31-2015, 07:00 AM

Vetruck

03-31-2015, 07:08 AM

As for my spring pads I use number ones. However, like I keep telling you I am using springs on the front of my car that are designed for a car 250 pounds heavier in the engine bay than what I have. I am also running koni shocks set on full rebound and larger H&R sway bars that help each side assist the other to limit independent wheel travel.

Vetruck

03-31-2015, 07:10 AM

...and my car is still too soft for my liking, but I built it for my woman to daily drive.

BolivianFuego

03-31-2015, 01:17 PM

those Bilstein turning are nothing more than OEM replacement. You might as well just keep your current shocks. you're not going to be happy with the results when you lower a car that low. when you lower a car you need to limit the suspension travel with a little stiffer suspension in order not to have it rub and try to limit increasing suspension geometry that will cause havoc on your alignment.

Gotcha.

Don't get me wrong--I just want a shock that I can replace with over stock that is meant for more lowered cars. I am not looking to auto-x this nor am I looking for a stiffer shock to help me on hard braking or taking turns. I would keep the stock shocks but I am afraid they will just end up leaking and bust because they weren't meant to be used with lowering springs.

I've had some serious suspensions on past cars. Koni is a quality maker (when mated with Ground Control/Eibach coilovers/custom springs and custom top hats top many 1000s of dollar setups) and the yellows in past cars have always been a great bang for the buck. I am just looking for a shock to handle some typical soft weight lowering springs. Koni's for the price aren't worth it for me. If these Bilsteins can hold up and not bust/leak after a couple of months, that's more than worth it for me.

But again--I do appreciate your feedback. FYI i've had VERY stiff springs on my old cars which were perfect for what I had at the time. This car though, is different and will not be used the same way as those.

Vetruck

03-31-2015, 01:55 PM

So how do you expect to slow the suspension travel when a wheel hits a pothole or such with the car that low and a weak shock valving? Fine to have soft springs, but better limit compression speed with a good damper. At very least you'll be sorry unless going with the firmer bilstein sport. You said to me 3 times now what ride quality you want, I get that, but you can not have your cake and eat it too. Lower car needs firmer more limited travel...period. Or you are going to ground out on bumpstops and rub tires on fenders. You can't go low and soft.

BolivianFuego

03-31-2015, 02:38 PM

That's the risk I am willing to take. at 71x4 compared to the Koni's at being almost double the price, the itch isn't worth the scratch for me.

Roads here in VA aren't bad though. I've gotten used to swerving for potholes over the years too with pat cars and expensive forged wheels.

Trying to save loot though with my C280 aka my daily.

BolivianFuego

03-31-2015, 08:33 PM

I was sold on getting the H&R springs....but after doing some searching...I am unsure which ones to go with.

I want the lowest drop, but don't know which one works best to get the job done. It's between H&Rs, Eibachs and Vogtlands.

From the numbers on paper, the Vogtlands are the lowest at 40mm all around aka 1.5x drop. H&R at 1.4 and Eibachs at 1.2.

I've read though, this doesn't matter and the Eibachs are probably the lowest? Is this true?? I haven't found much info on the Vogtlands though..... thoughts?

Auxive

04-01-2015, 05:27 AM

Auxiive, can you honestly say your steering controls are OK with over -2.0 degrees camber? My car was a handful and quite darty/scary at time for the Mrs. I had to quickly invest in the kit to correct that. I do not see others cars being different in specs then my cars OEM adjustment range.

Also guys, we have shocks, not struts.

Of course there's a noticeable difference, but I've become used to it. Before buying my first c280, I had a ls400 that was on bags and had -6.0 of camber. It's definitely not the best idea to have that much camber, but I was just saying that if I were in his position, I would invest in better shocks before buying a camber adjustment kit because he can live with it for a couple weeks until he gets more money for the kit.

Auxive

04-01-2015, 05:27 AM

Auxive

04-01-2015, 06:16 AM

Also, here's a DIY for rear camber arms. This saves you a lot of money and it's relatively easy to put together.
http://www.club202.com/forums/showthread.php?15907-DIY-Adjustable-rear-camber-arms

BolivianFuego

04-01-2015, 07:22 AM

Thanks man! Where can I get a front one too?

Edit: I found the super sport springs. Thanks! Will probably mate those with the camber kit.

Auxive

04-01-2015, 11:01 AM

I don't believe there's a DIY way of adjusting front camber/toe properly, so you'd have to buy the kmac kit off of their site.
http://www.k-mac.com.au/pages/newprods/mercedes/mercedes_05.htm

It's costly, but definitely worth it. Look around, maybe there are members looking to sell their front camber kit for cheaper.

BolivianFuego

04-01-2015, 01:04 PM

WOW!!! That's crazy expensive! That alone is about what I am spending on shocks and springs! Is there no other options besides Kmac?

Auxive

04-01-2015, 07:11 PM

I know it's expensive, but it's worth it from what I've heard.
And from my knowledge, Kmacs are the only option for the front. I'm 99% sure, but I could be wrong since I just bought my first w202 3 weeks ago and don't know everything about 'em.

BolivianFuego

04-02-2015, 01:00 PM

Thanks man! Looking in to it now.

Vetruck

04-02-2015, 01:35 PM

Kmac Bushings installed. They offset the front A-arms inward to bring the bottom edge of the tire in towards the centerline of the car.
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BolivianFuego

04-02-2015, 06:44 PM

Nice! I tried to contact the rep on MBworld I think? Haven't heard back yet though. :(

Do the A-arms need to be taken off the car to install?

Edit: I found the H&R Super Street springs but everywhere I find it it says it only fits C43s. Do they not fit my C280?

Auxive

04-02-2015, 08:14 PM

Yes, the spring will fit your c280

BolivianFuego

04-03-2015, 07:54 AM

Thanks! I was hoping it wasn't a dumb question. Will order them and mate to bilstein sport shocks.

Still undecided on whether I should get the camber kit or not. Just took a hit to the pocket with a fender bender I got into with my other car. :(

BolivianFuego

04-04-2015, 03:17 PM

Some eye candy. Got my wheels back today from the shop. Got i refinished. Looks fresh and brand new!

Front:
http://i.imgur.com/0NvNJBW.png

Back:
http://i.imgur.com/hYULkb9.png

wichipong

04-04-2015, 03:41 PM

looking good!

BolivianFuego

04-05-2015, 12:22 PM

Thanks man!

Any word on that momo hub?

adge_dre

04-08-2015, 06:16 AM

i just lowered my 99 c280 about 3 weeks ago with the same intentions as you. i used eibach springs and bilstein sport shocks. i got a real good deal on them used off craigslist ($250 for everything) which is really the only reason why i went with eibach. but i must say the ride is as comfy as before. it doesn't really feel much stiffer over bumps. took me a crazy back breaking 12 hours to do the fronts and only 4 for the rear. this was my first time working on suspension and i did all by myself. if i had a helpful hand i can imagine it would have been done in about half the time. and i also used regular spring compressors not the Mercedes. yes i know they say its dangerous but i got the job done

adge_dre

04-08-2015, 06:33 AM

Before

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adge_dre

04-08-2015, 06:41 AM

AFTER. BTW i went with #3 pads all around. i think i should have done #2 in front and #3 in rear. but it is how it is for now

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adge_dre

04-08-2015, 06:47 AM

and my monos that refinished in my garage. 17s for the front and 18 for the rear. only because once again, i found for really cheap on craigslist ($200 for all 4) and yes they are oem. so thats what ill being running for now in the meantime while i look for a pair of 18s to go in the front. one of the rims has a scratch on the face which i havnt decided if i will get it repaired yet or not. but yeah just thought i would share

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Vetruck

04-08-2015, 07:07 AM

THe thinner OEM wheels and tires do not show near as bad alignment problems as you will have when you bolt on the Monoblocks and fatter low profile tires. Just be aware of the difference once you do put them on. The car will suddenly become darty.

adge_dre

04-08-2015, 07:13 AM

i was wondering why the car didnt feel darty as u said it would before. i already have the DIY rear camber arms that i will be installing tommorow and then i will get an alignment.

Vetruck

04-08-2015, 07:18 AM

i was wondering why the car didnt feel darty as u said it would before. i already have the DIY rear camber arms that i will be installing tommorow and then i will get an alignment.

The wheels are smaller diameter so the thinner OEM tires have a taller more forgiving sidewall that has more rounded shoulders. The low profile tires on larger diameter wheels have more of a squared off shoulder- thus when the alignbment is not correct the inside squared tire shoulder will catch grooves when the tire footprint is massively cambered.

Edit to add info: I actually documented in a post when i first lowered my car that I put my OEM wheels and tires back onto the car for a month until I was able to get the KMAC kit and press them into the arms and install them. After that I put my 18's back on.

adge_dre

04-08-2015, 07:25 AM

would the car be just as darty if i fixed the rear camber and left the front?

Vetruck

04-08-2015, 07:34 AM

The front is what causes about 80% of it. The rear camber arms are mainly for tire wear but will have a little effect on catching grooves. The front will toss you about. Marlee did not want to drive the car at all. She was very unhappy with it when I lowered it at first. I told her patience...I need to order a few more parts and I would simply put your other OEM tires back on for now and you can keep driving it - so I did and she re-test drove it around the block and said OK.

Ive lowered hundreds of cars in my day for friends. I am known as the go to guy for suspension stuff amounst my peers. I try to do things as bood or better then OEM. With that said, this was the worse result I have seen of any car I have ever touched when it come to not having enough provisions to correct factory geometry. Most cars you can simply buy camber bolts etc and get it to drive decent, not this car. It took dropping the A-arms and pressing in new bushings to get the provisions I needed. It took stiffer front springs to reduce nose dive and unwanted camber gains. the lower you go with these cars the camber curve increases with the same wheel travel as higher OEM height. It grows faster when lower. The roll centers go down quick and need larger sway bars to control the greater positve roll axis- that means locking up ride quality. I reduced that side to side effect with higher rebound shocks and just using the smaller of the two aftermarket front sway bar options from H&R. I did not opt for the larger bar and be tossed side to side and limit mechanical grip and ride comfort. I lowerded this car to handle better than stock, not just look good. The cars suffer bad enough from massive nose dive at stock height, lowered height will be even worse with geometry change and trying to drive sporty. This is why I tried to preach what I did in early posts on this thread.

Vetruck

04-08-2015, 08:03 AM

FWIW- Suspension wise I can hammer this car anywhere and everywhere I go. I do not worry about the fenders grounding out or tires rubbing at full lock. It drives like you would expect a brand new car to drive and not rub or contact anything or break anything or clank noises over any bumps or dips etc. I would dare to say there is not another car lowered as much as mine that can say that. Many are lowered more than mine from what I see and have to be careful everywhere and drive slow over bad roads.

The only thing I have to watch is my low lip on my Brabus front bumper. It will scrape on steeper driveways unless I enter with a little caution at an angle to reduce contact. It has hit a few times at first until she got used to taking steeper driveways at an angle. I look at it when I wash the car for her and she has hardly hit the underneath of that lip with very few little scrape marks- That is to be expected with bumper airdam this low and wide.
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ps- I had put up pictures of this car on facebook showing friends when i first finished it. Everyone that then saw it in person later says those picctures do not do this car justice. It looks much lower and wider in person. For some reason that camera does not show it properly- Im not talking kids, I talking racing peers of mine in their 30's 40's 50's and 60's. Im known for my street cars at the local professional tracks.

Meet Vetruck (My "Corvette truck") that I drive somewhat daily and use to haul building material around. It will carry 4000lbs in the bed and has beat every Corvette I've raced against at the local autox tracks when they and I are both on street tires- Yes this truck handles big time.I build the entire front suspension geometry from scratch (I cut off the old suspension mounts and started fresh). Even has a full cage. When I build things, I build them correctly- hence the reason I am using this also for an example. My suggestions are like OEM or better, never worse.
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BolivianFuego

04-08-2015, 08:18 AM

Very nice! At this point I am going to drop her on the Bilstein shocks and H&R Super Sport springs I just ordered. She will then go directly after to get an alignment.

I will give it a month or two and reassess if I need a camber kit after the alignment. Thanks for all the input fellas!

mercedestech

11-14-2015, 09:23 PM

don't mean to hijack thread but I thought I could/would possibly add to this by this post: I am in a very similar situation I just got a 1999 c280 and am looking at getting h&r springs and Koni's or bilsteins. My question is, should I get 17" monoblocks or 18" monoblocks?? I can't decide!

wichipong

11-15-2015, 07:36 PM

mercedestech

11-18-2015, 11:06 AM

in all essence its all up to you.... ive done some 17 inch rims and mostly been rocking 18s...

I want the flushest possible look. I know when I lower the car that I will be taking care of the fender gap vertically, as in the the fender gap ABOVE the tire, but in front of the tire and behind the tire the only way to take up that gap is with a bigger wheel, as in filling in the ENTIRE wheel arch... will 17's fill that gap I am speaking of or will 18's fill the entire wheel arch better? I want it to be as flush as possible! no fender gap anywhere above the tire or around it at any point...

wichipong

11-18-2015, 08:25 PM

I want the flushest possible look. I know when I lower the car that I will be taking care of the fender gap vertically, as in the the fender gap ABOVE the tire, but in front of the tire and behind the tire the only way to take up that gap is with a bigger wheel, as in filling in the ENTIRE wheel arch... will 17's fill that gap I am speaking of or will 18's fill the entire wheel arch better? I want it to be as flush as possible! no fender gap anywhere above the tire or around it at any point...

ill go 18s then with 215/45 tires up front... remember, the wheel arch in front is higher that the back if you look at it closely