c230k no power after 4k rpm

[action]

Hello! when i floor it i can hear the supercharger engage and i get full power up til ~4000rpm and its like it just disappears, i can keep going but its very slow as you can imagine.
i have tried to take off the minus battery cable and wait a few hours, cleaned the intake and maf. No difference.
halp
1996 c230 kompressor manual

[John Jones Jr.]

Are you talking about while driving or stationary?

[action]

while driving, stationary there is a rev limit at 4k anyways

[John Jones Jr.]

My advise is to get the fault codes read first as several things could cause that issue. A cheap and simple thing to do is change the fuel filter if you haven't done so, maybe just maybe that's the problem?

[action]

Yes im thinking it could be fuel filter too... some more information,
it happened after i did a full service + checking the intake pipes for oil (not much found) and i forgot to tighten the inlet pipe for the IC, so it popped off. I dunno if its in some limp mode. but i could change the fuel filter and get it scanned.

[action]

No difference after i changed the fuel filter.

[Denlasoul]

No difference after i changed the fuel filter.
Any codes?

[action]

Havent had it scanned yet.

[John Jones Jr.]

You can you can do is: disconnect the battery for 20 minutes, reconnect and drive. The ECU will go into learning mode for something like the next 200 miles. Worth a try.

But best to get the codes read or better again have it plugged into STAR, especially as you don't know what other issues may have logged a fault code.

[action]

could try that. There is like a 2 week waiting time to get the car scanned ..
here is a video of the car

https://youtu.be/JWQyjvGNIkw

[piko]

Could be supercharger clutch or bypass valve

[John Jones Jr.]

Could be supercharger clutch or bypass valve

It could be but neither are prone to give trouble for what I can tell.

[John Jones Jr.]

Here is the correct computer relearn procedure. Worth doing and it will cost nothing.

[Abbaso]

Try your cam sensor. Mine would cut out the charger randomly though not just 4k rpm when it went out.

[action]

where is that located? dont see any sensor on the front of the engine. just the temp sensor.

today i got the car read for codes B1227 Outside temperature indicator temp sensor and B1420 Idle speed increase. nothing on the engine..
i hooked up a light to the compressor clutch and it doesnt light up when i lose power, so the clutch is working ok.

[Abbaso]

On the rhs of the head closest to the cam magnet sensor. Hook up a boost gauge clean the Maf

[action]

i can see its running rich. gonna order a new MAF sensor..

It only cuts out when the engine is under load, if i rev it while coasting the sc is engaged all the way to red line (it sounds bad though, strong rattling sound)

[Abbaso]

Rattling sound could be worn charger bearing. Very simple diy

[action]

Replaced the MAF sensor and it fixed the problem.

[John Jones Jr.]

Good stuff. Hope it was either a Bosch or Pierburg you fitted.

[action]

Was a bosch one. I cant believe the price difference there are on these things. local they cost around 450 euro maybe even more at the dealer and on ebay around 200 euro with shipping

[John Jones Jr.]

Hate to tell you this but a few months ago I got Pierburg from eBay for less than 100 Euro. Worth shopping around.

[Abbaso]

Always call the dealer before buying anything. I just replaced the starter on my car. Mate of mine works at an automotive wholesaler. He quoted me 120 usd for a Bosch starter. I got it from the dealer for 90 usd inclusive of tax.

[vaspen]

Maf mine did this same shit I argued that it coudnt be but in the end it was a bad m.a.f. sensor