Debate: C36 reliability if I keep it?

[Three Point 6]

OK guys, lets face it, there are alot of car choices out there these days no doubt. I have been tempted to get into something else car wise for a while now. My 202 has had its share of problems. The coil ends, the A-arms, the SRS light stays on for 2 minutes, sometimes the trans has an attitude and shifts funny. Even my sunroof creaks a little now like alot of peoples. But man, when I walk outside and see my ride sittin out there after work or school waiting on me i'm like, hell no, I just need to keep this thing and pay it off! How many people get a chance to own a truly rare, numbered vehicle that still looks this awesome after 8 years is what I tell myself. (I am all about a 500E now after having this car - thats another story)

Then I question how much the head gasket will cost, a tranny rebuild or driveability problem could cost in the short term. I need opinon from you guys on your own experiences & what I should expect on the maintenence problems I might encounter up to 120,000 miles from my current mileage. That is where the odometer will probably be when its finally paid off and I can retire her to the garage and put a cover on it. Or hell, maybee I'll just mod the hell out of her then and even rebuild the motor and get 330hp out of it?? My 202 has 70k on it now and I have roughly $17-18g till its paid for.

Alot of you guys have already owned 202's for several years & I want your opinion based on the facts

Questions.......

1. Will I need coil ends and or MAF meter before 120K miles
2. How bad do the M104 motors leak oil by 100K miles, mine is already dripping in the front a little bit - (basicly how long does it take before they get so bad that they HAVE to get replaced???)
3. Do the A-arm bushings last over 40k miles or what?? Mine are getting loose again since I did 'em at 45K - come on Jeff!
4. Climate control issues or power window issues (I heard an evap core change pays MB techs like 16 hours due to dash removal!)

[W202]

damn
i am having the same problem too man
help plz

[Eurosport]

just like with any car for the enthusiast is about passion for it
if you have any doubts about having the car (seems like you do) it's really not worth keeping driving and paying even just insurance for it if you don't fully enjoy it (ex: drawbacks like maintenance costly replacements etc.)

there always comes a time when you move on from a car (with exceptions of course) and get another, it just depends on each's circumstances but my main point is if you have any doubts then it's not worth keeping. either you in all the way or not at all type thing, there's always going to be a car out there that'll be perfect for a time being.

now about the issues you mentioned
the oil leak each car is different you can't really estimate in time what and when something will go wrong, but if it did start to leak gasket shouldn't be too long down the road.

coil ends and maf, again some cars never have to get them changed others do them monthly so just depends where you live, climate, road conditions, etc. but really no estimated time on this issue

bushings if you replaced them not long ago, a lot of people are paranoid about things like this and they think it's wearing down etc, just wasted money when they should be fine

power windows etc., most common thing is for a motor to go bad, i wouldn't even go to the dealer for that, i mean i'm sure you know how to take down a door panel and change it yourself, motors can be found oem in excellent condition at junk yards all over the country. this i don't think it's a common problem if it was a BMW then ya electric problems all the time, and not to mention check engine light that would come on more often than the mailman

hope this helps or at least it gives you some ideas
gl

[Andrew C280]

Well I have had my car for three months now

I did a tranny replacement
Mass air flow
Sparkplugs Bosche P4+
Alternator
Tail Light rear
Misc bulbs

Theres probally somethings I am forgetting

but like you said the more you look at your car and drive it you appreciate all the good things and forget about the bad

my car leakes no fluids and has 115000 Km on it other than a few expencive parts and premium gas i have no beefs with

There is something about cruzing at 140 MPH on a road that has bends in it, not just a straight line that makes it all worth while

[J Irwan]

Kylie,

The tranny issue so far found on 5 speed electronic tranny not on the 4 speed hydraulic-tranny..


I bought my C36 with 48,xxx (hi 48K) on the clock. on Sept of 2000.

And at the moment I have around 78,8xx on the clock

From the moment I bought my car here is the list of thing that has been replaced.

The car is Lowered a week after I bought the car running H&R sport and OEM Bilstein-AMG damper.

1. Belt tensioner about 1 month after I bought my car (replaced under MB warranty) at 49025 miles.
It was making noise when I brake the car the put the gear on (D)

2. 3 of the door sill plate replaced under MB warrant due to "peeling of silver lines" at 49K

3. I have PowerChip Gold 98 Installed at around 55K

4. Put the Carbon Fibre CAI about a week later.

5. Then I replace the belt at around 56k

6. Put Beru Ultra-X sparkplug at 58K

7. Brake Flush and SS lines at 67K

8. Replaced my MAF under Aftermarket warranty at 71K.
At the same MB replaced my ECU with brand new control unit, due to un-resettable code which affect emission.
So I sent my brand new ECU back to Powerchip to have more aggressive program with the Intake (before I have the intake after powerchip)

9. Tranny fluid changed at 73K along with the gasket.

10. AC Condesor was leaking and replaced under Aftermarket
warranty at 74K.
The Receiver dryer also replace the time.

11. Installed Koni Adjustable Shock between 74k-75k

12. Replaced the V-belt again at76K (it's because I couldnt remember when I changed it last time :S )

13. Head gasket replaced along with the front timing cover and Valve cover gasket at 77K under Aftermarket warranty.
Coolant Flush also performed together.


And I have to replace my front lower control arm bushing but still waiting Denlasoul source for Urethane bushing :)
The dealer also told me that the Ball-joint also worn..and need replacing..

My charcoal filter in the cabing (on the overhead console starting to get loud, and I should be able to get my aftermarket warranty cover it).

(edit: forgot to put : New set of P Zero Nero at around 72K)

And that's all the problem that I have so far with my C36.
And Oil has been changed every 3000-3800 miles with Mobile One syntec.

It is and it has been fun driving it for sure.. :D


I guess if the car well maintained regularly, the maintenance down the road shouldn't bee that bad with the exception of notorous head gasket leak and AC condensor leaK (condersor leak is common on W202, W210 and possible other model as well)

Also when you mentioned dripping on the front engine, is it the head gasket or front timing cover..?

Regardz,

[MRP Motorsports]

[i]
3. Do the A-arm bushings last over 40k miles or what?? Mine are getting loose again since I did 'em at 45K - come on Jeff!
[/B]

Are you looking for these? Built these about a little more than a year ago for an east coast racer out of another shop. I still have the CAD files and CNC program to run them again. These were designed to be pressed in like OEM.

http://www.mrp-engineering.com/images/225_control_arm_bushing.JPG

[J Irwan]

Originally posted by MRP Motorsports
Are you looking for these? Built these about a little more than a year ago for an east coast racer out of another shop. I still have the CAD files and CNC program to run them again. These were designed to be pressed in like OEM.

http://www.mrp-engineering.com/images/225_control_arm_bushing.JPG


wow...nice looking piece

are those solid metal with bearing in between..? or there is rubber bushing in between..?


Regardz,

[martattack]

My sunroof used to creak and close slowly. It's a VERY easy to relubricate and get it back to new. There is a metal rail that needs to be greased.

[MRP Motorsports]

Originally posted by J Irwan
wow...nice looking piece

are those solid metal with bearing in between..? or there is rubber bushing in between..?


Regardz,

There is a bearing and a couple other parts inside you can't see. These run on harden all metal races. For a street application it can run on Kevlar races to eliminate lubrication. Zerk fittings can be used on metal races but I would need to modify the control arm too.

[Three Point 6]

Thanks for the info guys.

J, Did you do the V-belt yourself or did you get a shop to do it? It looks like a daunting task due to minimum clearance. Also, the cabin filter is in the over head consol! I was wondering what the hell those vents were? You say it actually makes noise now? My front seal is leaking it seems, but not that bad - yet!

BoominBenz, good info on the roof

MRP, I take it you can build a street kevlar bushing on a special order basis then? I'm sure you know that a member here 'Speedybenz' is developing an A-arm to adjust camber and run a better bushing? If your solid/kevlar unit is do-able & priced good enough I dont see why it would hurt to run it on a daily driver & I might be interested. My car is low enough that it is tucking tire and inner camber wear on my tires is 'acceptable' right now. Therefore I might be willing to bypass camber correction on the front and invest in a good A-arm bush. What would be a price we can all expect for some Kevlar bushings?

[MRP Motorsports]

Originally posted by Three Point 6
Thanks for the info guys.

J, Did you do the V-belt yourself or did you get a shop to do it? It looks like a daunting task due to minimum clearance. Also, the cabin filter is in the over head consol! I was wondering what the hell those vents were? You say it actually makes noise now? My front seal is leaking it seems, but not that bad - yet!

BoominBenz, good info on the roof

MRP, I take it you can build a street kevlar bushing on a special order basis then? I'm sure you know that a member here 'Speedybenz' is developing an A-arm to adjust camber and run a better bushing? If your solid/kevlar unit is do-able & priced good enough I dont see why it would hurt to run it on a daily driver & I might be interested. My car is low enough that it is tucking tire and inner camber wear on my tires is 'acceptable' right now. Therefore I might be willing to bypass camber correction on the front and invest in a good A-arm bush. What would be a price we can all expect for some Kevlar bushings?

Oh, didn't tell you, but you can run an off the eccentric camber bolt in these control arm bushings for camber too! Just about everything is special order right now. These are also rebuildable for about 50 bucks.