which oils u guys use

[redc36]

hi again
well since i just got the car (95 C36) i am looking ito replacing all the oils to hopefully give me a troublefree future.
i simply would like to know which oils u guys recommend. i seem to have good experience with AMSOIL racing oils. had a bmw with 160k running with that oil. was definatelly smoother and withstood my abuse. i am wondering if its same for MB or does MB only like Mobil1. should i also use engine flush before switching to synthetic since the guys before me was using regular Agip oil but regulary thanks god.
what about tranny fluid, is redline good or MB only?
powersteering fluid i guess i 'll stick to filter only but do i need to drain fluid for filter change?
which coolant should i use? G11 G12 or MB only.

i simply cannot drive me car knowing it doesnt have all the fresh fluids. it bothers me
:)
well thanks again
Rejus

[MRP Motorsports]

Originally posted by redc36
hi again
well since i just got the car (95 C36) i am looking ito replacing all the oils to hopefully give me a troublefree future.
i simply would like to know which oils u guys recommend. i seem to have good experience with AMSOIL racing oils. had a bmw with 160k running with that oil. was definatelly smoother and withstood my abuse. i am wondering if its same for MB or does MB only like Mobil1. should i also use engine flush before switching to synthetic since the guys before me was using regular Agip oil but regulary thanks god.
what about tranny fluid, is redline good or MB only?
powersteering fluid i guess i 'll stick to filter only but do i need to drain fluid for filter change?
which coolant should i use? G11 G12 or MB only.

i simply cannot drive me car knowing it doesnt have all the fresh fluids. it bothers me
:)
well thanks again
Rejus

Engine oil:

Every 3k miles, you can use petroleum products. Synthetic ususally has a high viscosity and not allways runs the best in worn or high milage cars. Increases blow by, valve noise and lifter noise, and sometimes even increases wear.

Synthetic is better in newer engines with closer tolerances. Also with all the hydralic variable valve timing it is essential fluid is at and operates at the design viscosity. Sythetic also allows for longer service intervals based on the limited service life of refined oil.

Tranny,

Service once a year or 15k miles.

Depends on how hard you drive and whether economy is an issue. A lighter high viscosity fluid will give you a more efficient gear box, but heavy oils tend to give better shock and load resistance to metal to metal parts. Redline ATF if you want that extra few Hp and milage in a manual or auto tranny. Use mfg ATF for regular service on auto. Use Mobile 1 90wt for manual trans and diff for HD "daily" use.

Rear Diff

Once a year or 18 months (15K to 25K miles), it is cheap and will save you in the long run. Most people never change it the life of the car. This fluid breaks down from heat too. Recomneded Use Mobile 1 synthetic.

Power steering, clutch, and brakes:

Flush it at least every other year to remove moisture from the fluid, lines, and hydralics. I use Motul 600. But you can use any DOT 4+ fluid.

[vas2vas]

my c280 has 121k miles on it... I use Castrol GTX 20w50... when I got the car it was leaking from the timing case cover... I imagine the moron who had it before was using 10w30 from a barrel.... anyway, when I swiched to proper oil the leak almost dissapeered... I'm contemplating changing to Mobil 1 15w50 and do 5k mile oil changes b/c I drive about 1500 miles a month...

for trans Castrol Dextron III ATF, I changed the filter 10k miles ago, and try to replace the fluid every summer...

put castrol DOT-4 brake fluid, and I believe Mobil 1 synthetic in the rear diff... I put a magnet in the old fluid.... it picked up some very interesting stuff...

[jnolte]

Ahhh RedC36 u took my advice and came here to club202! welcome! again i use Mobil 1 0-40w

[pnsji]

For '95, the transmission fluid is not the same as the 5 speed electronic transmision.

For 5 speed electronics, MB has a special fluid that cost around $11 per quarts and you need like 7.5 of them

For the 4 speed, I believe you could use redline MTF.

[davis449]

To tell you the truth I have no idea what viscosity they slap in my car. Hell I wish I knew what they put in it. If you guys don't mind, tell me what Mobil DELVAC is exactly, is it Mobil 1? Someone told me my dealer was using Castrol GTX in it, but my bill has Mobil delvac on it (8 quarts written next to it).

[sph17]

Originally posted by vas2vas
my c280 has 121k miles on it... I use Castrol GTX 20w50... when I got the car it was leaking from the timing case cover... I imagine the moron who had it before was using 10w30 from a barrel.... anyway, when I swiched to proper oil the leak almost dissapeered... I'm contemplating changing to Mobil 1 15w50 and do 5k mile oil changes b/c I drive about 1500 miles a month...
I have had problems switching to syntetic oil in two different W123 MB's that ran dino oil. Even switching at only 60K miles resulted in leaks developing almost immediately. Switching back to dino oil never completely resolved the leaks.

If I run dino oil, I stay with dino oil. If I run synthetic, I stay with synthetic. If I switch from synthetic to dino, I never switch back.

[pnsji]

Originally posted by davis449
To tell you the truth I have no idea what viscosity they slap in my car. Hell I wish I knew what they put in it. If you guys don't mind, tell me what Mobil DELVAC is exactly, is it Mobil 1? Someone told me my dealer was using Castrol GTX in it, but my bill has Mobil delvac on it (8 quarts written next to it).

I believe delvac is for diesel engine oil

[benzdude280]

I have a 94 C280 and use Mobil 1 0w-40. My car loves it. Not a single leak. Nada! Of course, make sure the viscosity is appropriate for your local climate. I don't have to worry bout mine here in SoCal. :D

[J Irwan]

Been using catrol syntec GTX 10W30 for a year then switch to Mobil one Syntec 0W40 for almost 3 years now...
and never had any leakproblem..or whatsoever..

granted I just had my headgasket replace recently due to it's notorious problem :)


Regardz,

[moebiusgold]

Originally posted by vas2vas
my c280 has 121k miles on it... I use Castrol GTX 20w50... when I got the car it was leaking from the timing case cover... I imagine the moron who had it before was using 10w30 from a barrel.... anyway, when I swiched to proper oil the leak almost dissapeered... I'm contemplating changing to Mobil 1 15w50 and do 5k mile oil changes b/c I drive about 1500 miles a month...


When any oil gets too old its breaks down and starts leaking from everywhere. The long chains HC get brooken down into small enough pieces to get threw gaps too small for good oil to fit. This can be coumponded by unburnt gas accumulation in the oil which is also shorter chain / smaller molecules. Oil temp has to get above ~185 F to drive the "gas" out of oil. Gas is actually a blend of many HC's, lighter and heavier ones. The heavy ones are the culprets here.

[redc36]

hhmmm i still a bit confused about general sensus about switching oils. i guess there is no clear answer in these things. i simply want least wear and tear without introducing leaks. i was reading somewhere that if engine is leaking syntec oil after the switch is was leaking regular one before. if i do the switch should i do the engine flush also from amsoil to sort of get it ready for the switch. also here in NY is like wut around 30F should i stay with synthetic 0W30 or start thinking moving on to synthetic 20w50. if it gets cold again i guess 20w50 is not good anymore.

now about tranny fluid again its a mixed opinion. so which redline product is for C36. ATF , D4ATF or some manual tranny fluid? otherwise i move to MB oil. do they make heavy duty also?

now for the rear axle or diff wutever us called i see recommendation for mobil1 and mb. r they both equally good? why not redline?

thanks god i got the coolant ordered up already. but forgot spark plugs :-). 2day hopefully i get those. should i get oem ones or go for fancy iridium or +4 bosch. wuts ur scoop on that.

damn i just dont stop but who do i have to turn to other then dealer :-) . is it possible to change power steering fluid as well as filter. can my local mechanic do it? actually same applys for Fuel filter and all the fluid changes or should i just go to the dealer since they would need special tools or something.

k also i just wanted to mention something that got me upset last nite while i was browsing the net. on the bmw forums they keep dissing benzos. i had 325e36 before as well as drove m3s. they r wonderfull cars, love the onrails feel but how did they have a nerve to say that interior material quality is lower then bmws. i think my c36 has 100% better interior feel then e36 body bmw. its very luxurious, all the leather is not worn at 100k and smell like new. stereo sounds excellent and everything is logical on the console. u cant compare it bmws. u close the doors they feel heavy and tight. now exterior wise both cars are beautifull in their own way. one is more sporty race me look another one is more classy i can drive to restaurant look. just my .02 .

k now to the final questions. my headrest has problems going up, i feel motor trying to move it and sometimes it does it but not as smooth as the other seat. is it hard to open up and fix it?

one more thingy does cooland original mb comes premixed with water. i bought 3 gallons for my cooland change. i know it will take 10quarts.

thanks in advance. if anyone is NY area with their w202 hanging out let me know

[Eurosport]

Mobil 1 syntetic 0w40 for 2 years by me
original owner same
only leak is when i run to the restroom

[max2105]

No brainer: best oil out there: Mobil 1 0W-40.

[redc36]

will definatelly do that then
also for the rear differential i am also planning to use mobil1 syntetic oil. but which one is it?

[max2105]

For the rear differential use Mobil 1 75W-90. I think it's the only one tell sell. It comes in a 1 Qt squeezable bottle. About $8.99 or so.
Sergio