DIY maintenance work

[1998K]

Dear Guys,
I'm wondering to do myself next maintenance service at 100000Km of my kompressor 1998cc W202.

I've already searched and informed how to perform oil change (special tool,...) but please still need some clarification:
1) Do I need to lift the car to access to the drainage nut and undercar plastic cover? May be a portable jack to put in front (where to avoid damage) of car?
2) Do the stealership provide new washer for the oil nut?
3) Do I really need a calibrated wrench for the oil nut and oil filter cap, because I'll be forced to purchase one with also the special oil remover tool?

Coolant (never changed before!)
1)same as above point 1 There is only a drainage in the radiator of there is also one in the engine block?
2)same of above point 2
3)same of above point 3

Spark plug, mine was replaced at 67000 Km, do I need to change now? Car go really well.

I can't find a maintenance manual because mine is a particular engine: 1998cc with kompressor with similar power and torque of C230K. Does someone suggest me where to provide one?

I'll appreciate again all your information, I confirm that we are so lucky because we have W202 and this is really the nicest Mercedes forum.

Hi

Marco:)

[fastmayte]

lift the car, remove the lower cover, the bolt will be facing the left wheel ( well it does on my c220, donno about yours).

if u get an oil filter, it comes with the washer, especially if u're buying it from oriely (wix brand). 8-9 bucks.

u can get a oil filter cap tool from autozone. u know where the oil filter cap is right?

the drain plug bolt is a # 13. while leanring from my mistakes, learned to tighten it just till it stops moving. no yanking! :)

oh and as for plugs, i change mine every 30k miles just to keep the fuel and preformance at a good level.

i go with Bosch plat plus 4. but hopefully some c230K owner will verify if you could use the same.

good luck

[1998K]

Originally posted by fastmayte
lift the car, question is if is better a workshop jack to put in front of the car? remove the lower cover, the bolt will be facing the left wheel ( well it does on my c220, donno about yours).

if u get an oil filter, it comes with the washer, especially if u're buying it from oriely (wix brand). 8-9 bucks.I'll buy to the stealership, probably they provide the washer for the oil nut! At least I hope.

u can get a oil filter cap tool from autozone. u know where the oil filter cap is right?I can see it. Do I have to avoid over- tightening?

the drain plug bolt is a # 13. while leanring from my mistakes, learned to tighten it just till it stops moving. no yanking! :) Ok so calibrated wrench is not necessary
oh and as for plugs, i change mine every 30k miles just to keep the fuel and preformance at a good level.so with 30000Km I'm still OK

i go with Bosch plat plus 4. but hopefully some c230K owner will verify if you could use the same.

good luck

Thanks a lot for the info. If you have also info on coolant change and workshop manual it'll be wonderfull.

Thanks again

[fastmayte]

well what i do is i bought the walmart ramps. they are like 10 bucks or so and make oil changes alot easier instead of jacking up both sides.

last time i bought a oil filter from the dealer, it was extra for the washer but sold togather, as in taped up on to the box. also came with teh oil filter cap gasket. the wix one comes with the washer and oil filter cap gasket. but the dealer filter seems to run the car slightly cooler. same price for the filters....

yea, as calling my dealer alot for torque specs for various bolts and stuff and getting the same answer every time " snug " . just stop tightening when it stops moving with a slight nudge. the rubber gasket will keep it from leaking anyhow.

yea, #13 works for me just fine. make sure u know your tighty/loosy.....

30k miles is like what? 50k km's? or somethin like that. u can change them if u want, it's a easy job and fairly cheap (6 bucks a plug). but notihng really serious. i just change them on every car i have cuz it's a cheap job. :)

oh, donno anything about the coolant thing. sorri

[Rocky]

i dun think they have wal-mart in italy do they? :P

[fastmayte]

oh damn. didn't see the italy part. hummm. can't go on with out walmart :D

[1998K]

Originally posted by Rocky
i dun think they have wal-mart in italy do they? :P

100% correct:)

So, I really appreciate your kind help fastmayte, thanks a lot.

About spark plug, mine have ab.30000Km (not miles), should be ab.20000miles so, they are not to change already.

Wal-mart does exist a picture so I can look for something similar here in Italy?

About coolant change, if does exist any info it'll we wonderfull.

Besides are there other suggested maintenance job at 100000Km (ab.60000 miles)? MAS, just changed, differential and gearbox changed previously, brake oil (every 2 year) changed last year.

I'm planning only the engine oil and coolant job, plus the air filter.

Really nice to work on own car.:)

[fastmayte]

hey, no probs dude. payin someone else to do maintainance is just a waste to me, haha. it's simple stuff


dw about the plugs. u got really low miles. i tihnk the only thing u should be really just doing is oil changes. and the air filter. if u start seeing bad mpg's or engine idlin or driving weird, replace the plugs then.


actually if u go to an auto parts store, they should have those drive on ramps.

yea just check the book for maintainnace needs. u can prolly do most of em in the book.

lol, thankx. i'm still spending alot to get the car into 100% running condition. aa well :)

[1998K]

Dear fastmayte,

nice to see your reply. As I'm was wondering oil/filters change are the only necessary work to do. May be also the internal clima air filter. Plus the coolant that is not changed probably since the factory and I'm looking for necessary DIY information.

As soon, hoping very soon, I'll install Koni and H&R I'll check also at the shop the brake pads condition.

Hoping to find here this really usefull car-ramps, really attractive device for all of us

:D

Hi:)

[1998K]

As usually to avoid new tread I resume other (my in this case) new one.

Yesterday I was under the car, not lifted:( , attempting to un-screw on the right side the engine block coolant plug, it's really difficoult to operate with tool in that position (mine is a 4-cil.).

Please how do you suggest me to operate. My dad, because warried, did not permit me to lift the car because we had not any support to put as safety instead of the car jack, but a part this there is really small room to insert and operate teh plug nut.

Please do you have any suggestion help for me.

thanks :(

Hi

[jnolte]

make some simple ramps to drive the car on to

[heman]

jnolte when u say make some simple ramps lets hope he dont go making them out of wood yeh, and he means simple as if ur a MiG welding specialist or something, another thing u get is those things you know u can put ur car on each side they are triangular metal stools i dont know what theyre called i got two though, jack one side of the car up and put one under
jack the other side of the car up put one under and job done and u know what the car sits nicely on those two rubber things on each side of the car.......probably cheaper to pick up than ramps too, i got two which hold up the vans aswell strong ones and second hand for £5 cant beat that hey

[1998K]

Thanks friends.

Wood ramps are what I was looking, wondering also to the triangolar metal tools but I'm worried if the support on the car side will be enough firm (the base seem me quite small!):(

My question is also related to the small room to operate a tool (an open ended key I belive) in that small space, have someone ever attempted?:)

[fastmayte]

y not just use jack stands? i use that now since i lowered the car. get a floor jack to lift the car, much easier and safer than factory jack.

[Denlasoul]

Is there any way you can utilize a curb to lift on side up? You know like raise the car by placing one side of you car onm a curbside.

[Rocky]

Originally posted by Denlasoul
Is there any way you can utilize a curb to lift on side up? You know like raise the car by placing one side of you car onm a curbside.

problem with that is if he drains the coolant, since the car is on the curb at an angle, not all the coolant will flush out.

[Denlasoul]

Aahhh yes. Then ramps and stands it is!

[1998K]

Thanks a lot for all of your help and answer guys. Actually I'm looking to find some piece of wood to put under front wheel, with factory jack. I belive that this should be enough and also secure (car will be parked with rear end close to garage wall).

Probably I have to lower and rise up two time, to permit correct flushing of engine block (due to raised position of front respect rear axle).

What do you think?

But my main question is: does someone know which size of bolt and if an open ended key will be sufficient.

...as far as wrench for calibrated tighten is quite impossible to operate: too long:(

Hi to all

Marco

[1998K]

Hi Guys, sorry if I always press you but, since I plan to do the work (as described in my above post) tomorrow, I will appreciate a lot your help.

Does someone have really already done that job? Because my friend (that work in a garage) kindly suggest me to avoid any engine drain block removal, due to possible breaking because of encrustation on the plug and relevant thread.
He suggest me to remove the lowest hose pipe that in that case should be the radiator plug I belive.

I'm wondering that only the radiator plug will be not enough to well drain all the coolant.


Because car, I'm quite sure, are still with factory coolant (from 1998) I really want to drain as much as possible, considering also that MB technician said me that previous MB type apporved coolant was different from the kind utilized now
blue

plese help me

PS: I bought 4.5 l of new coolant that I intend to utilize at 50% ratio with home drinking water.

[nokia8860]

When I drain the coolant in my car i just undid drain plug at the lower end of the radiator. I didnt even raise the car up to do this.

All I did was make sure the car was at operating tempture to make sure the thermostate was wide open. Undid the plug let it drain.

[1998K]

Originally posted by nokia8860
When I drain the coolant in my car i just undid drain plug at the lower end of the radiator. I didnt even raise the car up to do this.

All I did was make sure the car was at operating tempture to make sure the thermostate was wide open. Undid the plug let it drain.

Thanks a lot Nokia you are a friend for me.
You have suggested me a good alternative: let the engine heat to open the thermostate and than open the radiator plug (that I belive is really easy to operate removing the underside plastic cover). But are you sure that thermostate will be well opened to permit complete flushing?
So I have to operate with hot colant, paying attention to avoid hand burning

...But being the thermostat above the engine, is it really requested that this need to be open? May be the radiator plug is really the only one plug to utilize.

Wondering because the engine block plug does exist if so.

in any case thanks again.

Marco

PS: please how much coolant and water have you filled up? Your is a 6-cil?

:)

[SLAMMED_C]

The only thing you need to do is undo the drain plug on the rad, whatever comes out is good enough.. mix your coolant 50/50 and you should use about 7.5-8L, 4L of MB pure coolant mixed with water = 8L.
keep some of your old coolant to use for topping up if needed.

the drain plug on the side of the block is hard to ge at (need a hoist) and is only used when removing an engine from the car to drain the coolant left in the block.

whatever comes out from the drain plug on the rad is sufficient.
and this would be a good time to replace your thermostat also... its probably never been done and a great time to do it.

once coolant has been filled back up, run your vehicle to temp, either by letting it idle or revving the engine @ about 2500 rpms until the temp gauge hits operating temp and goes above slightly then returns back to normally operating temp. leave your coolant reservoir cap off during this process, and your cooling system will be bled.
top up as necessary and you are done.

[1998K]

Thanks a lot SLAMMED_C, your reply is very usefull for me, so the remaining part of coolant in engine block is a really minimum part. OK

Please do you think that the suggestion made by Nokia8860 : "make sure the car was at operating tempture to make sure the thermostate was wide open. Undid the plug let it drain" is it better or not necessary.

Do you suggest to change thermostat also if it work always very good?

Thank you very much

Marco:)

PS: I've used "search" and I saw that is suggested to activate defroster after coolant filling up. What do you intend as "defroster"? the internal heating? To clean the cooling system I simple put water from the expansion tank to flush, water will come out from radiator plug?

[nokia8860]

The reason why I run the car to operating tempture is to have the thermostat open so that when i undo the drain plug i get some of the coolant that is in the block itself.

If you just undid the plug while the engine is cold then you would only get what was in the radiator.

However has slammed pointed out draining the radiator is good enough.

Hey take pictures of the process and email it to me so others can benifit :)

[Renn 208]

also, just fyi, here's another good thread on coolant.


http://www.club202.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1500&highlight=coolant+flush

[SLAMMED_C]

I dont think you really need to run the car hot so that the themostat is open befoe draining.. just open the drain plug and let it drain out that way.

Yes I do recommend to rreplace the thermostat, if its never been done and your car is a 1998 (as per your screen name) Id say do it, just to be on the safe side. they dont cost an absurd amout of money, and you will have the coolant removed anyway.

yes, you brought up a good point Marco.
Its a good idea to have your climate control set to defrost (max heat, to help bleed the complete cooling system) sorry I forgot to mention that.

[nokia8860]

Originally posted by SLAMMED_C


yes, you brought up a good point Marco.
Its a good idea to have your climate control set to defrost (max heat, to help bleed the complete cooling system) sorry I forgot to mention that.

same here forgot to mention you should do that as well as it opens up your heater core to let out the coolant in there as well.

oh btw while its tempting dont lick coolant off your fingers :D

[Denlasoul]

Originally posted by nokia8860
oh btw while its tempting dont lick coolant off your fingers :D

and if you do....it can give you an excuse to drink alot of alcohol (that the quick short term way to fight the effects if you arent close to a hopspital or dont know what to do).

[1998K]

Dear Friends saturday I've done the work, thanking again for all of your usefull info, please here below you'll find my comments and reply to your post:
1) no photo available, sorry (because camera not available)
2) I replaced about 5.5 l of coolant; 8.8 l should be the total, including the engine block that I didn't drained out as per your suggestion.
3) I've flushed the radiator and, because of some impurity in old coolant, I've filled up only with water, runned the engine till thermostat opened to clean also the engine block. Then I've discharged again the system when hot. So I can confirm that same amount of liquid came out independently of thermostat open or closed.
4) old coolant was yellowish, dealership told me that they used that kind of cooland previously. I hope that the ab. 3.5 l of old coolant is not a big problem, with the new blue coolant type.
5) after drained the coolant from the radiator I've opened the defroster and heating: further coolant drained out. So the suggestion has been well provided.
6) radiator plug have a round gasket a bit hardening, I'm concerning due to possible leakage. I do not refer to the two internal rubber gasket in the plastig plu, but to the external one on the base (above the cap-plug itself). Hope to be clear.
...

hope it's all, oh yes 1998 is the yaer but also the engine capacity.

Please comment item 4) and 6)

Thanks a lot

Marco

[1998K]

Up.:)

[nokia8860]

4) I feel you should be fine with your mixture, also you can change out the coolant again to rid yourself of the old coolant. It is almost like changing the transmission fluid where if you just drop the pan you only change so much but if you do it enough eventually all of it gets changed out.

6) where?

[1998K]

Hey nokia8860

4) since I've flushed, filled only with water and runned the engine for 5 min with thermostat open; then discharged again, I hope this shpuld be enough. Was looking only for your second opinion.

6) I refer to the red plastic plug at the base of the radiator (left side), yesterday there was a very little drop in way of the radiator plug itself. I have well dried into the radiator plug hole to see if it was some remaining after coolant draining.

Does the glicole tend to remain instead of water that evaporate more easily?

thanks

[nokia8860]

6) If you have dried it and then after a few days of driving you notice drops of coolant there then you might want to replace the seal.

[1998K]

Originally posted by nokia8860
6) If you have dried it and then after a few days of driving you notice drops of coolant there then you might want to replace the seal.

ok I'll check and inform you guys. thanks

[1998K]

Originally posted by nokia8860

6) where? [/B]

I've found the drawing of that part on http://www.importeccatalog.com/

in cooling system/radiator drain plug (part n.G1060-34117)

sorry I'm not able to post directly that picture.

[1998K]

Now after some day of driving (but only 100 Km done) it's all OK.

Hi

[nokia8860]

Originally posted by 1998K
Now after some day of driving (but only 100 Km done) it's all OK.

Hi

http://www.club202.com/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif

[714guy]

Wow i feel the love in this thread. almost like the good o' days:D :p :D :p

[1998K]

Originally posted by 714guy
Wow i feel the love in this thread. almost like the good o' days:D :p :D :p

:embarr:

[97Brabus]

Originally posted by fastmayte

u can get a oil filter cap tool from autozone. u know where the oil filter cap is right?


Is there a part number for the one at autozone? I am not sure if we have autozone in Washington...but will give it a shot if the 16 year old kid at the counter of any local parts store around here can understand what I am looking for. Last time I tried to pick one up I ended up buying 4 different kinds, none of which worked. Big pain in the arse! How much is it from MB?

Thanks!

[Denlasoul]

You can get one at Schuck's. It's only like a few bucks.

[jnolte]

Originally posted by 97Brabus
Is there a part number for the one at autozone? I am not sure if we have autozone in Washington...but will give it a shot if the 16 year old kid at the counter of any local parts store around here can understand what I am looking for. Last time I tried to pick one up I ended up buying 4 different kinds, none of which worked. Big pain in the arse! How much is it from MB?

Thanks!

i bought mine from barrier mercedes. 25 bucks what a rip!!

and it cracked the first day so i went back and they gave me another one for free, but i had to wait a week for it to be ordered.

2 weeks later i c one at schucks for like 7 bucks, damn!

[97Brabus]

Can I rent it from ya? LOL! I might just go buy one from Barrier on Monday, but if they are out I am gonna be thoroughly dissapointed cuz I wanna change my oil on Monday or Tuesday. It's about 1000 mi overdue! :( I called every part store around here and they are all retarded and either have no idea what I am talking about or just plain don't have it. Stupid oil filter!!!

[Denlasoul]

You going to be anywhere near downtown tomorrow or this week? I can let you use mine.

[chimchongdlight]

Hey so the washer you get with the oil filter goes on the 13mm bolt at the bottom of the pan?

[tcles]

oh damn. didn't see the italy part. hummm. can't go on with out walmart :D

I didn't even know walmart had ramps, I must investigate this.

I will vouch for how incredibly awesome having ramps are, I have a pair of old ramps that used to belong to my great grandpa (he's still alive, but luckily isn't driving ever since he crashed his caddy, still insisting to this day it was the other guy's fault. These ramps were for this caddy :) ) You will wind up using the ramps for just about everything that involves under-car except wheel/front suspension. They made my flex joints and engine mounts replacements much much easier. Especially those engine mounts since it frees up the jacks and jackstands. Just be very careful when putting it up on the ramps, I would not recommend doing it without another person to act as spotter, especially since sometimes a ramp will catch right away, sometimes it will get pushed just a little bit rather then let the wheel roll up since MBs are rear wheel drive.I have overshot on one side before and it will likely give you a heart attack. New ones may work better then mine since some of the rubber is worn on mine, but reguardless I'd suggest placing them on a rougher surface, a surface that is too smooth will almost certainly lead to more pushing then climbing. I've found that I HAVE to back my car into the carport to put it on the ramps, the cement in the carport is far too smooth and it is impossible to get enough friction to safely climb up the ramps, the instinct will be to gun it a little bit since the jolt will let you get up further due to the coefficent of friction being higher (like how you stop faster if your wheels are turning then if they lock up and allow a skid) but BE careful, it is easy to overshoot the ramps, I wouldn't even chance gunning it a little bit unless you have a spotter, that's how I overshot on the passenger side that one time.
Also I found that I have to jack my car up and kick the ramps in as much as I can then let it down so the bumper will clear, once the car is on the bottom of the ramps it is angled enough that there is barely clearence, but that beginning where there is the angle doesn't allow. I don't think the different bumpers on the non-AMG w202's give more clearance, but they might. Ramps with a more shallow angle would allow without jacking, but I don't know if it causes enough of an inconvience that I would personally trade that for the shorter height that the ramps would likely have as a result. Mine are a good foot high and though it gives quite a bit of room, I wouldn't be happy if it was any lower, especially for stuff in the back or around the transmission. Make sure you have cardboard, a roller board would be awesome, my back would appreciate it, but remember that it will reduce your space, so make sure you have it up on the ramps and think you can spare the extra room before going out and getting a roller board, but if you think you can, def get one, your back will thank you. Make sure you also have proper lighting for under car repairs, worklighs wont go under there very easily and hook lights are kinda a pain and both get it VERY hot under there. I recommend a magnet LED light and a headlamp for working under car. I have even had one that was both (light came off the headband and had a magnet).

I'm gonna check out these walmart ramps, might be worth it if they are a more shallow angle since it would be nice to not have to jack up the car if I'm doing work underneath closer to the front where the additional space isn't as needed.

Oh yeah, one last thing, make sure you have car stops, or at least big rocks or bricks to put behind the rear wheels, even when the car is all the way on the ramps and seems very well seated, it's better safe then sorry. You will probably get freaked out at first and want to place a jackstand under the car with you, but for me I got very confident of the integrity of the ramps and very annoyed with having to work around the jackstand and no longer use it, I usauly throw a spare tire under the side after the ramps so I have some protection if a catastrophic failure occurs. Of course my ramps are permanent angle-iron and non-adjustable, if your ramps have any kind of folding mechanism I would recommend the stand, you never know.
Safety first, you can always get a new car, but you can't get a new you, remember that ahead of time as the first instinct WILL be to place yourself in harms way to save the car if you have put a lot of DIY work into it :p Shoudda seen me clutching the engine lift for dear life in a bear hug when it collapsed during a cyl head pull.

Edit: and I am pretty sure there are autozones in Seattle, I'll ask my buddy that helps me work on my car where they are since he moved from there and did a lot of automotive work when he lived there. I do know he's commented many times about the crappyness of carquests up there since they are absolutely awesome down here and we go to them quite often.