what do you do when K&N filters are chaper than OEM MB paper filter...

[bobcat]

a quick poll......

what do you do when K&N filters are cheaper than OEM MB paper filter... ?


(editied to correct typos... apparently I can't type today... :D )

[KWiK]

I stick with OEM since I'm not too impressed with K&N

[kameraguy]

Seem sto be luck of the draw, but as I experienced a failed MAS due to my K&N (as evidenced by the oily residue on the MAS), I have decided to stick with all-stock accessories. It might cost more, but a MAS ain't cheap!!!

Honestly, I did not notice any difference between K&N or stock, so for me i'll just stick with the OEM filter to be safe. I know others haven't had problems with their K&N though.....

[bobcat]

Originally posted by kameraguy
Seem sto be luck of the draw, but as I experienced a failed MAS due to my K&N (as evidenced by the oily residue on the MAS),

I don't think it was bad luck...

I had the exact same problem when using K&N filter on my
two previous W202s. Both had 4-cylinders... The MAS failed in
both cars, due to a dark-oily deposit inside the MAS. This occured
just a couple of months after a spanking new K&N filter was
installed. I reverted back to MB filters after the MAS failures.

Strangely, my current W202 with V6 doesn't seem to suffer this
problem when using K&N filter.(but the MAS failed once anyway,
while it was only using OEM MB filters)

[fastmayte]

u could prolly get fram or stp air filters. don't think they are more expensive that k&n. bet they are 20-30 bucks. go with fram. check autozone, they prolly carry em

[Three Point 6]

Hot Rod 101:

The farther away your engine/exhaust mods are from the intake and exhaust valves, the less you(and your engine) will notice them. Your engine will feel an improvement either way over a dirty filter.


K&N's are only 100% effective when new. After you use them(wash & re-oil) they still dont flow like a new one!! Only like 80%. Just stick w/ OEM and avoid the 'glamour' speed parts.

Follow Kameraguys vice - might screw up your MAS also??? K&N is good for all out race motors that are on the edge and would benefit w/5-10hp improvement, w/carbs or speed density EFI as there is no MAF to worry about calibrating...

[98c43amg]

I don't question some experienced problems. But I for one can only speak about a positive experience. Quite the opposite with the experience I had when my filter was changed [OEM ] by MB dealership.

With K&N, noticeable improvement in throttle response & power, especially when coupled with the RON93 ignition timing config you can have set via the Star Diagnosis Computer. I was expecting to have problems from what I read here and other places. But no problems and only smiles.

I didn't re-oil the filter before installing it. Wondering if others here had? Also, I heard from someone you should let the filter sit for 1 day after cleaning and re-oiling before re-installing. Seems like a good idea; lets the oil soak & settle in, so it isn't a "fluid" and doesn't get sucked in and stuck on the MAS and cause a failure.

I actually had plenty of problems, including back firing and stalling before installing the K&Ns. Thought it was the MAS. Turned out to be something =real= simple MB techs couldn't find even after several trips to the shop: 1) dirty filter (was only a year since replacement; roads are real dirty around here apparently...you'd think they'd look), 2) clamp @ the bottom of the MAS tunnel assembly wasn't clipped by the tech who changed the filter (farg'n mediocre MB techs; guess it was too hard for the wimp's fingers.) So there was a vacuum leak & air/fuel ratio was off.

After an independent tech specializing in MB discovered & fixed that, and I installing the K&N's, great great great perf. I will take care with cleaning ... might consider a new filter instead of cleaning it if it's that cheap.

[jnenad16]

I've been using a K&N style filter(cotton gauze) for 3years now, and my MAS hasn't failed yet. The key is not to oil them. And my engine still runs great as it did with the stock filter, but has more power. Plus, I perform a compression test on my car every 6 months and the comperssion is still 190+psi at each cylinder. I guess if you live in the desert or some other high dust area, you should oil the filter, but oil it lightly, one quick spray over the area should be sufficient.

nenad

[benzaddict]

jnenad16 hit the nail on the head. I can't tell you how many MAF sensors I've replaced with over-oiled K&N filters. They don't need much oil to be effective and too much is horrible for the MAF sensor.

[mayagman]

I personally feel much better knowing that I have a structured, resiliant cotton element guarding my engine internals rather than a flimsy piece of paper. Not to say that paper filters are useless, but I'd rather have a few microdroplets of harmless filter oil get into my air supply than a few good grains of sand or years of dust ingestion. The improved airflow of the thinner element is merely a side-effect to me. If you follow the proper maintenance procedures and use a bit of logic, you can get years of service from your first K&N, as I have in my 68 fleetwood, my 76 Invader Mustang inboard, my 79 Gold wing, and my 97 C280. All K&N, all flawlessly running.

[jnenad16]

Originally posted by mayagman
I personally feel much better knowing that I have a structured, resiliant cotton element guarding my engine internals rather than a flimsy piece of paper. Not to say that paper filters are useless, but I'd rather have a few microdroplets of harmless filter oil get into my air supply than a few good grains of sand or years of dust ingestion.

the paper element filters air better than an oiled cotton gauze one. its in the service manuals, even the K&N shows that in their comparison charts. that oil that you think is harmless, it is not designated as "sensor safe", meaning it will kill MAF, IAT, and even O2 sensors, eventually. as I mentioned in my previous post, my compression has not degraded a bit since I have been using a gauze filter, but if there was a substantial dust ingestion, I should have rebuilt my engine by now.

nenad

[coolin]

I worked for the OEM air/oil/fuel supplier to MB in Germany.

If you're not looking for increased power, it is difficult to beat the contruction of the OEM Mann/Hummel Filters (far superior to Fram, Purolator, other generic brands).

And the cost...well even an expensive filter doesn't cost THAT much.

If you need more air, buy a K&N. I've had them in a 325i, Talon TSi and a Corvette. But, I was only able to detect a noticable performance improvement in the Corvette.

[coolin]

Originally posted by coolin
I worked for the OEM air/oil/fuel supplier to MB in Germany.

If you're not looking for increased power, it is difficult to beat the contruction of the OEM Mann/Hummel Filters (far superior to Fram, Purolator, other generic brands).

And the cost...well even an expensive filter doesn't cost THAT much.

If you need more air, buy a K&N. I've had them in a 325i, Talon TSi and a Corvette. But, I was only able to detect a noticable performance improvement in the Corvette.

Whoops forgot something...

...the risk/reward for using a K&N doesn't seem overwhelming unless you've got MODS.

[mayagman]

I've seen the contrary when it comes to small particle stuff, while im sure 9/10 of these 'studies' are bogus anyway. All I know is, when it comes to filtering out nuclear fallout and chemical residue from the air, nearly all of our filtering at work uses some kind of oil application to the filter substrate. Its just a fact that dust and microparticles mate better to liquid than they do a dry piece of paper. The cheif filtering element isnt the cotton itself, but the oil that catches the particles going through, hence when you recharge your filter, you're really just changing your filter *oil*, not so much to clean the element itself :P But for kicks, See what kind of looks you get when you go to Jiffy Lube and ask to have your air filter oil changed, lol.