Torque # for wheels

[ShollyC220]

I just did a search, and I must admit I'm not the best at using it. However, I am going to be putting my 18" wheels back on for the spring in a few weeks, and I was trying to find the suggested ft/lbs. of torque from the factory. I assumed it was somewhere around 75-80 ft/lbs. Does anyone know the approximate #? I have a '94 c220... Thanks

-sholly

[manny]

The correct torque is 82 ft/lbs. ;)

[CKlasse]

Mine says 95lbs

[ShollyC220]

Hmmm 95 seems a bit too high. Thanks for the quick response.

-sholly

[MrSpace]

I torque mine at 90

Etienne

[manny]

Originally posted by manny
The correct torque is 82 ft/lbs. ;)

;)

[Dr.Drew]

82 for alloys, steel rims can be torqued more

[ShollyC220]

Originally posted by Dr.Drew
82 for alloys, steel rims can be torqued more

These are 18" chrome wheels, aloy coated chrome I assume. 82 ft/lbs should be alright. Thanks for all help-

-sholly

[manny]

Originally posted by Dr.Drew
82 for alloys, steel rims can be torqued more

I'd like to know what you're smoking? :confused:
It does'nt matter if they're steel or alloy, the torque spec's. are THE SAME !

[Dr.Drew]

what I ment was its not going to hurt steel rims if you torque them a bit more but alloys can be dammaged if over torqued, I run my winter steelies and alloys both at 82 Ft/lbs

[manny]

The problem is not with over-torquing the wheels, it is about warping the rotors. ;)

[MrSpace]

Originally posted by manny
The problem is not with over-torquing the wheels, it is about warping the rotors. ;)

or breaking a bolt in... or even worse, stripping one

Etienne

[r_widjaya]

MB dealers recommend 90-110 Nm

[SLAMMED_C]

I torque the W202, W210, W208, R170 to 90ft lbs...
and the W211, W220, W215, W163, W140 to 110ft lbs
the smarts are 80-85ft lbs.

[99amgc43]

damn i torque mine to 70, better tighten em

[x15jq]

I just tighten till its real hard to do with a 3 foot bar on the stokc lug wrench. I checked this with my torque wrench once and this is about 100 lbs.

[Dr.Drew]

I was just thinking about this if you say that over torqueing will warp the rotors wouldn't the weaker metal give way first ie. damaging the aluminum vs. the steal rotor ?

[VIP_MBZ]

You can also end up stretching the bolts. Typical torque for Japanese cars is ~75 ft-lbs, and they use the lugnut-on-stud design, which is fundamentally stronger. I didn't have any wobbling or wheels threatening to fly off in my last car while holding 150 mph for several miles, so I'll go ahead and say 70-80 ft-lbs is just fine. 100 ft-lbs or more just isn't a good idea.

-Ray

[98c43amg]

Question that's somewhat related....

When I put on my Kinesis rims, the bolts were too long and rears were hitting the parking break. As I didn't want to put the snows back on, I decided to cut about a 1/4" off the bolts I had in the rear. I don't have a band saw, so used the cut-off wheel of my Dremel (went through about 30 discs! :p ).

So my question... As I had to cut through the bolt with the grinder, the bolts got quite hot. Was holding the bolt with a Vice Grip so that acted as a bit of a heat sink, but still, bolt was too hot to touch after cutting off the end.... So, does that heating, w/o anealing after (I believe it's called) weaken the bolt? Should I be concerned?

Thanx,
Steve

[VIP_MBZ]

Maybe, and then maybe not. If you can buy Kinesis wheels, then surely ~$100 on the correct bolts should be a drop in the bucket. =)

-Ray

[98c43amg]

Originally posted by VIP_MBZ
Maybe, and then maybe not. If you can buy Kinesis wheels, then surely ~$100 on the correct bolts should be a drop in the bucket. =)

-Ray

(LOL - I bought them used from someone here on the board for $1100 :p )