How to change ignition wires

[kirr]

Can someone please give me step by step instructions on how to change the ignition wires. I also have a problem with starting the engine. I think I might need to change the spark plugs. Sometimes when I start the engine, it doesn't turn over it just keeps making the noise that they make when you turn the key all the way over. So, I have to floor it with the gas pedal for it to turn on. How do I fix it?

[jnenad16]

to replace the wires and plugs, first you need to remove the x-over intake pipe, then remove the spark plug cover on top of your engine, and there will be ignition coils at the top. pull those out and the plugs will be underneath them. reverse procedure to complete the installation. as for the engine not starting, I need more details to help you out pinpoint the problem.

nenad

[kirr]

I've tried before to take the pipe off but i don't know where it is connected. Also, if I leave to go to the gym and come outof the gym an hour later, I have to keep the car accelerated to turn on. It turns on in the morning fine though. Sometimes when I put the car into drive when I am still going backwards in neutral, it will start puttering like it is about to shut off but then it doesn't.

[Sulaco]

From virtually the same experiences with my car, I would say you're deffinitely having spark-plug issues, and probably some plug wire issues as well. But as I'm sure jnenad will also mention, you're almost certainly in need of a new wiring harness. My car started that lousy cranking about 4 years ago. It's had major tune-ups since then (including new plugs) that never seemed to help. The computer never gave a code for it and the CEL never came on. I took it to a local "specialist" who said there was nothing wrong with it. I took it to the dealership and they said nothing was wrong with it. But, while in my service advisor's office, he told me that my car was built with biodegradable wiring that will need to be replaced and is certainly the cause for many of my problems (constant CEL due to never-ending misfire and a bad connection between fuel control and the ignition system, lackluster performance, always takes a good 10 seconds of turning the engine over to start PLUS pumping the gas pedal or it just won't start). Of course, there are things that are just plain worn out and are causing some problems--o2 sensors, probably ANOTHER MAS, shocks are completely shot, plug wires, maybe coil pack(s).

But I was having pretty much the exact same problems as you, only mine were worse and more frequent. If I cranked the car, put it in reverse, held the brake, turned the steering all the way in one direction, and turned on the A/C, it would sputter like mad and go into limp mode. Half the time I tried to pass someone or accelerate, it would BACKFIRE and go into limp mode.

Don't trust those websites that will sell you a $50 wiring harness. I have no idea what the deal is, but apparently you can only get the harness from the stealership for about $675. And it can be installed at home in about 3 hours if you're careful and very thorough.

Long winded post. Perhaps I should have just said "ME TOO. WE'RE SCREWED."

[kirr]

I actually had my wiring harness replaced a year or two ago. I just think the main problem is the spark plugs but nobody has been able to explain to me the different gaps and 1/16 turns in plain english.

[Sulaco]

When installing my new spark plugs I researched it pretty well. I never saw anything talking about turns and all. I just stuck the 5/8 sparkplug socket in there and took them out, then I replaced them and tightened them up pretty good (but not as tight as I could possibly get them). I was totally unaware there's some kind of requirement as to how many times they should turn.

But as far as gapping, I DID run into that and make sure I had the plugs to spec. My engine is the 94 I6 and requires a .032 gap. I'm sure the specs to your plugs will be easy to find as well. And I would HIGHLY recommend you order the bosch super copper plugs from the dealer. There's TONS of speculation and disagreement on these boards about whether or not store-bought plugs and platinum plugs are good/bad for your car. I just bypassed the whole argument and shelled out the $30 for the originals from the factory. And, they were already gapped to spec, I just told them what car/engine I had and they sent me exactly what I needed.

[jnenad16]

Originally posted by kirr
I've tried before to take the pipe off but i don't know where it is connected. Also, if I leave to go to the gym and come outof the gym an hour later, I have to keep the car accelerated to turn on. It turns on in the morning fine though. Sometimes when I put the car into drive when I am still going backwards in neutral, it will start puttering like it is about to shut off but then it doesn't. the pipe connects to the throttle body by a clamp on one end and to the MAS by the flex pipe on the other end. there are also two 10mm nuts in the back of it that secure it to the valve cover. remove these clamps and nuts and you will be able to remove the pipe. as for rough starting, is the CEL on? there could be a number of reasons that could cause this problem, so I cant really tell you what could it be.

nenad