Suspension installation

[mayagman]

Can anyone link me to a tutorial for spring/shock replacement?
I've had my H&R/Bilstein setup sitting in my trunk for 3 months because I refuse to pay $500 to have them installed. I'm somewhat profficient and I have wheel and body lifts at my disposal.
Tried searching, but 'springs install' and etc brings up quite a laundry list.

Edit: I am running a stock-weight car, H&R Sport Springs and Eibach Sport Shocks. I'm aiming for NO tucking in the back, just floating level. The front should have about a finger gap... Any suggestions pad-wise? I'm stock right now.

[crsh2]

Originally posted by mayagman
Can anyone link me to a tutorial for spring/shock replacement?
I've had my H&R/Bilstein setup sitting in my trunk for 3 months because I refuse to pay $500 to have them installed. I'm somewhat profficient and I have wheel and body lifts at my disposal.
Tried searching, but 'springs install' and etc brings up quite a laundry list.

Edit: I am running a stock-weight car, H&R Sport Springs and Eibach Sport Shocks. I'm aiming for NO tucking in the back, just floating level. The front should have about a finger gap... Any suggestions pad-wise? I'm stock right now.

it should only cost you $150 or less than $200
its hard to do if you dont have all the tools, not to mention the the bills you'll get from the hospital if you hurt yourself.

goodluck

[choppers_rule]

Yeah...I'm trying to change my spring pads too, do you have to compress the spring?? No idea...:bored:

[crsh2]

Originally posted by choppers_rule
Yeah...I'm trying to change my spring pads too, do you have to compress the spring?? No idea...:bored:

No. You have to remove the Spring and the Pads goes on top of it

[mayagman]

I've tried compressing. Not only are the coils too close for most compressors, but the spring rate seems too high for anything I could rent. Do a search for 'spring compressors' and you'll see my potential mishap from a while back. The method I heard of involved un-bolting the subframe, removing sway bars, and slowly jacking the car up until the load is off the shocks and springs, then just swapping them out.

It sounds easy, but I'm just looking for a guide.. this is one of the most common things we do here on Club 202, comon someone, write up a how-to on that! I'd feel better doing it myself than dropping it off at meineke or some other joe-blow shop who's never dealt with this car before.

[Denlasoul]

This link may get you going: Click me (http://www.club202.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1842&highlight=lower+control+arms)

[jnenad16]

ok, to install the springs/shocks is not that hard, just time consuming.this is actually one of my favorive "repairs". first thing to do is jack up the end of the car you wish to work on first, lets say the front. support it with jack stands at either the frame bars running along side the trans tunnel or at the rubber lift points. now, take off the wheels, support the lower control arm with the hydraulic jack, make sure it wont slip out. now, remove the brake pads, unbolt the caliper and secure it with a cable or a few zip ties to a point at a top of the wheel house not interfering with the spring or the shock. now, pump the jack once or twice to supress the shock a bit. proceed to undo the nut(s) that hold the top of the shock.if you have air tools, this the perfect time to use the air gun to undo these nuts, one by one, otherwise you will most likely need to use a vise grip pliers to hold the top off the shock rod while you undo the nuts and this takes time. now that the top of the shock is free, slowly start releasing the jack,making sure that the shock is coming down slowly and safely. keep lowering it slowly until the shock comes out completely and the rod is sticking outside the wheel well. dont worry, the spring wont pop out, now undo the bolt connecting the shock to the control arm.you now, push down the control arm with one hand and hold the spring with the other until you feel the spring getting loose. once the spring feel loose or about to fall out, pull it with your hand and there you go, you have successfully removed a spring. now, when installing the new springs, make sure you put the pad on the right way, meaning the groove on the inside must match the ending of the coil on the top of the spring,also the ending coil at the bottom of the spring mush fit exactly in the mathching groove on the control arm. to install, reverse this procedure. now you can move on to the next wheel. after you are done with the front, put the wheels back on, lower the car, jack up the rear end, secure it with stands at the rubber lift points and repeat the procedure.

good luck and keep it safe.

nenad

[MikeL]

There is a special tool for lowering mercedes. It costs around $1500. I can lower any W202, W210, W140, W124, and a couple of other models in about 30 mins if I have access to a lift and all the tools I need. You dont even have to take the wheels off the car if you have this tool. If you dont have that tool (which most shops do) a simple 30 min job just turned into 2-3 hours because you have to start removing all kinds of $hit.

[Ashkan's C280]

mikel do you work at tws?

[jnenad16]

Originally posted by MikeL
There is a special tool for lowering mercedes. It costs around $1500. I can lower any W202, W210, W140, W124, and a couple of other models in about 30 mins if I have access to a lift and all the tools I need. You dont even have to take the wheels off the car if you have this tool. If you dont have that tool (which most shops do) a simple 30 min job just turned into 2-3 hours because you have to start removing all kinds of $hit.
I have the klann compressor, but its just not as interesting as removing all the shiet to install the springs. thats just me, though.

nenad

[ryhi]

Originally posted by jnenad16
ok, to install the springs/shocks is not that hard, just time consuming.this is actually one of my favorive "repairs". first thing to do is jack up the end of the car you wish to work on first, lets say the front. support it with jack stands at either the frame bars running along side the trans tunnel or at the rubber lift points. now, take off the wheels, support the lower control arm with the hydraulic jack, make sure it wont slip out. now, remove the brake pads, unbolt the caliper and secure it with a cable or a few zip ties to a point at a top of the wheel house not interfering with the spring or the shock. now, pump the jack once or twice to supress the shock a bit. proceed to undo the nut(s) that hold the top of the shock.if you have air tools, this the perfect time to use the air gun to undo these nuts, one by one, otherwise you will most likely need to use a vise grip pliers to hold the top off the shock rod while you undo the nuts and this takes time. now that the top of the shock is free, slowly start releasing the jack,making sure that the shock is coming down slowly and safely. keep lowering it slowly until the shock comes out completely and the rod is sticking outside the wheel well. dont worry, the spring wont pop out, now undo the bolt connecting the shock to the control arm.you now, push down the control arm with one hand and hold the spring with the other until you feel the spring getting loose. once the spring feel loose or about to fall out, pull it with your hand and there you go, you have successfully removed a spring. now, when installing the new springs, make sure you put the pad on the right way, meaning the groove on the inside must match the ending of the coil on the top of the spring,also the ending coil at the bottom of the spring mush fit exactly in the mathching groove on the control arm. to install, reverse this procedure. now you can move on to the next wheel. after you are done with the front, put the wheels back on, lower the car, jack up the rear end, secure it with stands at the rubber lift points and repeat the procedure.

good luck and keep it safe.

nenad

this is the method i use for the rear except removing the brakes. is it necessary to remove the brakes to change out the springs and pads?

[jnenad16]

yes, unless you want to stretch and snap the brake hoses. LOL

nenad

[mayagman]

Right, the next issue is Camber arms. Mainly, will I need them. Do the stock arms have enough adjustment to keep factory camber with an H&R/Bilstein drop? Are you guys just installing these arms to have more control, or is it a neccesity?

[jnenad16]

the stock arms dont have enough adjustment range after the drop. you will need either to get rear arm, such as speedybenz ones, or do what I did to my and my dad's car and expand the holes where the adjustment is needed, ie arms that are use for camber/caster.

nenad

[mayagman]

Well at $250 I think I'll just weld 2 ball joints on a piece of rebar and call it a day.

[choppers_rule]

Oh boy......seems like a lot of work just to change a thicker spring pad for me:D

[mayagman]

Seems like a bit of a struggle compared to coilovers.. Might just have an indy mech duke it out for me. Although the camber issue is kinda getting to me..

Serious question... Does anyone know how far off the camber is from optimal setting when it's dropped on stock arms?

[Denlasoul]

Originally posted by mayagman
Serious question... Does anyone know how far off the camber is from optimal setting when it's dropped on stock arms?
It all depends on how low your car settle when lowered. It's rare to see two identical cars lowered in the same increment, so the best way is to lower your car, settle the springs, and get an alignment. That would give you the best indication of your camber.