LOL lunched my SC....

[Pagz]

Just thought i'd share with you all what happens when you port your SC and "think" you did not let one single shaving enter there,man was i wrong...

after taking of my mass for a routine checkup...it was alittle apparent more than air was passing through the system...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/735000-735999/735658_87_full.jpg

here's how your SC looks after objects enter the meshing lobes....
most of the damage is on the end off the lobes where its not visible.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/735000-735999/735658_88_full.jpg

there is also a fine mist of alloy through the IC piping which iv have now cleaned out....but most of it must have past through the engine.
despite this the car seems to run as strong as ever.....although it might feel alittle sluggish down low(no suprise)...

damn!!,Knew i should have spent my savings on a turbo.

Paul

[SLAMMED_C]

damn man!... thats one big WHOOPS!!!
but if it still creates boost.. why worry!!

[c280nz]

o0o0o ouch
Just run another air filter in the charge pipe to catch the flying metal and itl be sweet :confused:

Ive seen a few superchargers for these go pritty cheap <$1k so i wouldnt be too worried
haha bugger tho

[1998K]

...but I'm wondering how it's possible? Bad air filter accomodation or bad air pipe tightness?

:(

[alphanumeric]

damn man I was just lookin at your car domain again.. I have to say your car looks bad ass!! prolly 1 of the best I have ever seen!

btw.. I agree with turbo!! its not to late.. you already have intercooler.. now all you need is a custom exhaust mani and a used\rebuilt turbo.. cant cost over $1000 us for all that..

[Pagz]

Originally posted by SLAMMED_C
damn man!... thats one big WHOOPS!!!
but if it still creates boost.. why worry!!

Hey slammed,
yeh im suprised there isnt a bigger impact on performance!...,I cleaned my mas with contact cleaner last night and re-installed the IC piping...the car seemed to be running better than ever....until i lost boost.....IC pipe popped off...,im alittle concered with the fine mist of alloy from the SC lobes entering the engine...i could however install a filter,but it will mean more pressure drop etc......Ill just work at trying to remove the SC i think!....

Hey thanks alphanumeric,
man i wish it was going to cost 1000USD!,
- 1000-2000 turbo(a good one)
- 1000-1200 manifold
- 200 exhaust changes
- 200 oil feed etc
- 100 intake/outlet changes
- 500-700 wastegate(Trust)
- 500 boost control(apexi)
- 350 BOV(Trust)
- 300 Dyno time
- 700 N/A pully with belts and alternator relocation (all optional)
- and also $1200 worth of defi guages,very important!:)

so all up...around 6750NZD,or $4820USD...
i had enough to go on with it last week,but got talked out of it(by non car enthusiasts of course!),so im back to saving.



Ive seen a few superchargers for these go pritty cheap <$1k so i wouldnt be too worried
yip could always just get a second hand one i guess(If this one fails completely)....although i was driving last night and found it still ran ok without boost!


...but I'm wondering how it's possible? Bad air filter accomodation or bad air pipe tightness?
hey 1998K,havent seen you here for a while!,
all the piping and filtering are fine,i think the cause was leaving a few small grindings of alloy in the SC when i moded it...its a domino effect after that!...

Paul

[alphanumeric]

those turbo prices are rediculous..!! junkyards here are filled with OEM turbocharged cars with all kinds of goodies so thats why I quoted a small price..

A.N. brass fittings for my last turbocharged car were about $80.. that was an oil feed and oil return into the oil pan.

the US 1988 ford thunderbird has a 60\63 trim turbo which is such a big turbo..and can be had for as little as $45 in unknown conditon so its a 50\50 chance of it working.. if not.. a rebuild will cost $250-$300..

this is just me tho! but it seems like you like your as a show car so I guess I can see why u want to spend all that money.

BUT!! I forgot our intake manifolds were plastic!! haha.. I dont know how that would hold up.. and plus the stock fuel system seems to only be good for 10lbs of boost.


I got a question for you.. about the stock diverter valve.. it looks as if you removed teh whole thing and added your own BOV.. how is this done? can you plz explain? because I want to delete this thing from my system.

I mean I know how a bov works and how its hooked up and everything.. its just I am unclear on how the supercharger works.. as in how it controls how much air is fed into the engine.. if the pully is constantly spinning. so if I removed the diverter valve all the air would be forced into the engine.. BUT if the valve is unplugged.. the s\c wont even turn on.

[Pagz]

Originally posted by alphanumeric
those turbo prices are rediculous..!! junkyards here are filled with OEM turbocharged cars with all kinds of goodies so thats why I quoted a small price..

A.N. brass fittings for my last turbocharged car were about $80.. that was an oil feed and oil return into the oil pan.

the US 1988 ford thunderbird has a 60\63 trim turbo which is such a big turbo..and can be had for as little as $45 in unknown conditon so its a 50\50 chance of it working.. if not.. a rebuild will cost $250-$300..

this is just me tho! but it seems like you like your as a show car
so I guess I can see why u want to spend all that money.

BUT!! I forgot our intake manifolds were plastic!! haha.. I dont know how that would hold up.. and plus the stock fuel system seems to only be good for 10lbs of boost.


I got a question for you.. about the stock diverter valve.. it looks as if you removed teh whole thing and added your own BOV.. how is this done? can you plz explain? because I want to delete this thing from my system.

I mean I know how a bov works and how its hooked up and everything.. its just I am unclear on how the supercharger works.. as in how it controls how much air is fed into the engine.. if the pully is constantly spinning. so if I removed the diverter valve all the air would be forced into the engine.. BUT if the valve is unplugged.. the s\c wont even turn on.

yip,it could be done alot cheaper for sure no doubt,...when it comes to engine parts for the benz...im always keen for new gear!...but if it was my hack id definatly use second hand!...

hmmm yeh the plastic manifold should be good for quit a bit i think...i would like to have a custom one made one day...also the pastic would have a high resistance to heat transfer from the block thus less intake temp,I installed a special gasket on my last car to combat this.

yes the addition of a fixed pully and removal of the bypass has been a topic for a while,there was a big write up between slammed and myself a while back....

I think we came to the conclusion,if you want a BOV than you must remove the bypass,and install a fixed SC pully...

dont quote me on this,its only my theory....
any other way wouldnt work,reason being if you just remove the bypass,(assuming you trick the ECU into believing its still there so the SC still engages),then the engine would stall due to lack of air.

instead of installing a fixed pully,you could simply feed the clutch a perminant supply...but then theres a gain in putting a lighter fixed pully on there also....

I think i also mentioned that because the bypass is controled by the ECU,the open and close timing is optimal for the system,and so replaceing with a device which uses spring and air pressure to determine this may not be the best option?

but if your game,let us know how you got on!

Paul

[SLAMMED_C]

Originally posted by 23K
Hey slammed,
yeh im suprised there isnt a bigger impact on performance!...,I cleaned my mas with contact cleaner last night and re-installed the IC piping...the car seemed to be running better than ever....until i lost boost.....IC pipe popped off...,im alittle concered with the fine mist of alloy from the SC lobes entering the engine...i could however install a filter,but it will mean more pressure drop etc......Ill just work at trying to remove the SC i think!....
yep.. that will work.. that or lighter fluid seems to work on cleaning the MAS.
well why bother replacing the SC if it still creates boost?.. you will just spend your turbo fund on a new SC.. that you will be getting rid of soon anyway!
honestly.. I dont thin the fine mist of metal will harm the engine.. it probably went in the engine and bakc out again through the exhaust port.. as long as you still have the same boost as before.. there shouldt be any worries as to the damage on the SC lobes.
I dont think you need to worry.. although you just should have been more careful when you were porting it! lol.. a lot of good that does now.. but live and learn!!
Id say just run what ya brung!.. let it fail if it ever does.. which I really doubt it will.

lol.. yeah you arent kidding.. there is one huge write up on the whole divertor valve to BOV conversion debate..
and yes.. Id say if going with BOV conversion.. use a solid mounted pulley and remove the divertor valve. but even them Im still uncertain if it will properly work.

I gave up on that.. Im just going to swap out my SC for a Vortech unit.. and keep the divertor valve.. my only question is how will I control boost.. since the Vortech SC can creat 20-25PSI depending on what SC I pick.. does boost have to do with the crank size and pulley for SC size? is there a formula for it?

[alphanumeric]

oh nevermind!! I thought that was an aftermarket BOV suited for a turbocahrged system u had welded on the inlet of that intercooler pipe..

u sure did fool me haha

i diverted back to my stock intake from my own custom cold air intake thru that fender gap.. was really nice quality.. cept the floating diverter valve... but all my buddys thought it sounded lame.. (we are all usually turbo drivers) and my friends that didnt know about cars thought something was really wrong with my car..and it sounded like shit.

[Pagz]

hey slammed,

lol.. yeah you arent kidding.. there is one huge write up on the whole divertor valve to BOV conversion debate..
haha that must be one of the biggest threads on here!!!

hmmm yeh i used this Contact cleaner by CRC,we use it on all our electronic gear,it says it leaves no residue at all!....i guess lighter fluid is the same.
yes,live and learn...,i was so sure i didnt get anything in there though:)
I doubt it will fail completely also,it will gradually loose low end boost i guess....

iv been told matching an SC to an engine is alittle easier than turbo,for the simple reason you have that fixed variable(engine RPM,and thus SC output at all engine speeds can be determined)

im sure you will be able to obtain A/R(air/rotation) ratios for the units(not A/R as in used on compressor houseing sizes),...and if you can obtain a rough idea of what you engine will breath,then you can use the ratios to get the correct SC speed and calculate both pully's size to match....and then theres the factor of pressure level you will run....and also the losses between the intake SC and IC system.

I have never done this,but iv read alittle about it,it would be best to stop by a place that commenly installs custom systems to get a better idea of how to go about it....i "think" you'll find they use similar steps i described.


i wonder if there is much difference in drive train losses between roots and the Vortech?
....i think there will be gains in efficiency(temperature) for sure due to the compressor type.

Paul

[Pagz]

Originally posted by alphanumeric
oh nevermind!! I thought that was an aftermarket BOV suited for a turbocahrged system u had welded on the inlet of that intercooler pipe..

u sure did fool me haha

i diverted back to my stock intake from my own custom cold air intake thru that fender gap.. was really nice quality.. cept the floating diverter valve... but all my buddys thought it sounded lame.. (we are all usually turbo drivers) and my friends that didnt know about cars thought something was really wrong with my car..and it sounded like shit.

Ohhh,yea the one in the gaurd is the stock bypass,dang i should learn to read!;)

yeh the bypass sounds alot different to the usuall BOV,i think due to the large Venting capability compared to the usual BOV which is quit small in regard to similar rated engines...

I must be one of the few who like turbo,but dont like BOV's or really loud exhausts?.....simply for the reason its too out there,i dont like that much attention,and it makes it alittle ricey(this comming from me who put dual straight through muffs on heh)

Paul

[Pagz]

...simply for the reason its too out there,i dont like that much attention,and it makes it alittle ricey

and then i slap on a big IC to help:D

[1998K]

Hi Paul

yes last mounth I was not so much active on the forum,:rolleyes:

But I saw quickly the last modification you are still doing on your strong W202.

And about the worries on the possible engine damage I'll be optimist considering the strong design of our older Benz:D

How many km have you already run? It seems that all is working well now, dont'it?

Hi
Marco:)

[Pagz]

hi marco,
yip im still on the modding trip...
thanks for the optimism,the car has run 95Kms now(i bought it at 76)....so its still fairly low...unless it was wound at some stage!...
hows yours running?,have you modded lately?

Paul

[1998K]

Dear Paul:)

my W202 kompressor is a 1998 car, actually the kilometers are similar to your car, mine are abt.106000Km.

All is running really well. I'm only changing oil and filter every 15000Km. Last week I've done the manual gearbox ATF change, manoeuvring now is a little bit better...but not as I'd like:(
Engine power and torque are really good but our manual gearbox is tooo slow and frustrating.:rolleyes:

After H&R and Koni installation (10 mounths ago) ride comfort is an old memory:D

I haven't done big modification, oh yes a new Pioneer head unit with navigation feature all in one LCD unit (yes with a separate brain unit installed below rear cushion).

Hi Paul

Marco:)

[Pagz]

Hi marco,
good to hear!...
I also changed my G/B fluid to redline D4 ATF,it did make some difference,it definatly alittle easier to change,but still not how i like it!...

Paul

[1998K]

Originally posted by 23K
Hi marco,
good to hear!...
I also changed my G/B fluid to redline D4 ATF,it did make some difference,it definatly alittle easier to change,but still not how i like it!...

Paul

yes Paul, our manual gearbox is not the best:)

I utilized Mercedes Dealer ATF fluid, do you know what is the brand/kind they sell in their MB branded bottle?

Marco:)