C230K cold start hesitation

[benzonline]

Anyone have this issue on their C230 Kompressor engine? After the car sits for 8 or more hours, it starts right up but then chugs and gives a few good 3-6 shakes of the engine then is smooth as butter. Only does it with the cold starting and does not shake or anything after it does that.

According to records spark plus were done not that long ago and all services up to date from MB. Car has 80 000kms.

What should I look at and is this major?

[dwang]

This happened to me last fall/winter. My car would also hesitate slightly at stops. Turns out it was the Mass Air Flow sensor. You can either do it yourself or go to the dealership. It's easy to change, but the part is expensive ($350+?). I had about 85k miles when I changed the the MAF.


Dave

[benzonline]

if its the MAS how come my check engine light isnt on? Or is the MAS on its way out?

[202rules]

Originally posted by benzonline
if its the MAS how come my check engine light isnt on? Or is the MAS on its way out?

I've read threads on the board mentioning that the MAS could be faulty without triggering the check engine light.

I think the dealer or MB mechanics have the equipment to unit test the MAS and tell if it's faulty. Don't know how much it cost, but if my mechanic has the nerve to ask for $100 to read OBDII codes, I know he has the nerve to charge me some wacky number to check a part like that.

Good luck!

[dwang]

Originally posted by benzonline
if its the MAS how come my check engine light isnt on? Or is the MAS on its way out?

Mine never threw a code either. I guess it could mean that it's still working and it's not total failure just yet. When you take the MAS out, you can visually see that it's bad. So maybe take it out and do a spot check? I think some here in the past have used rubbing alcohol to clean out the MAS with some success. I guess if it doesn't look too bad, try cleaning it and put it back in.

Dave

[benzonline]

I will try that and I beleive this MAS could be the culprit of some other things aswell.

[dwang]

Originally posted by benzonline
I will try that and I beleive this MAS could be the culprit of some other things aswell.

Good luck and let us know how it goes. BTW, make sure you let the MAS completely dry before re-installing!

[benzonline]

How exactly should I clean it?

[alphanumeric]

I tried cleaning mine.. didnt work.. I think it might of made it worse.. becuzz my car runs like total ass now.. I dont think the maf is working at all!! my car has 75k miles on it..

it also triggers my supercharger to shut off if I floor it over 5k rpms.. I know cuzz i have a boost gauge.

also check engine light a while back went off and on.. now its always on..

as the first person posted on this thread.. my car does this too.. you can hear it loud too.. sounds like the rpms go up and down radically.. then it levels out and the vibration goes away after a couple of seconds.

sometimes I hear my engine detonate too lol... its from putting 87 in once inna while..

[dwang]

Originally posted by benzonline
How exactly should I clean it?

Check out THIS THREAD (http://www.club202.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3622&highlight=MAS+clean) here. Members have had good success with carb cleaner and then using brake cleaner to remove the carb cleaner excess. Good luck.

Dave

[99C230K]

I have the same problem with my car. Yesterday I took it for an oil change and asked the tech about the problem. He said that it could be several things; he suggested to clean the injectors as one of them could be leaking and flooding the engine overnight. The other, he mentioned is the fuel pressure regulator needs to be updated to the new style. Well, I did have the injectors and intake ducting cleaned, however the problem is still there. I will try to update the regulator later.

I did try to clean the MAS, but was unable to remove it. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

[davis449]

Could be the MAS. Mine on my 95 went out without a CEL and the way I could tell was by how the car drives. If you've noticed a significant loss of power along with your shaking at cold start, then you might want to have the MAS checked, otherwise I would think it could be something else.

[benzonline]

I tried something recently.....

I turned the key to the last position before starting....I waited 10 secs then started...it didnt do the hesitation/shaking if I waited....kind of reminds me of a diesel with glow plugs you have to wait for LOL.


So could be fuel pressure related.:)

Will this get worse in the winter?

[davis449]

I got Vetil Sauber (Valve Clean) from Lubro Moly and it's helping the little bit of cold start shake I have in mine. Jectron is really good for cleaning the fuel injectors too.

[greekC]

sounds like a mass air problem yo can clean it with alcohol. if problem is still there try changing the fuel filter.

[Delta36]

Yup... sounds MAS

[99C230K]

Well, I have updated the fuel pressure regulator and the problem is still there. So, can someone explain on how the MAS will effect the starting? I do not see any loss in power, flat spots or the bad idle. Do any of you experience the same problem with other models?

[benzonline]

If it was MAS I beleive it would effect the car at all times.

[c55m8o]

Originally posted by benzonline
I tried something recently.....

I turned the key to the last position before starting....I waited 10 secs then started...it didnt do the hesitation/shaking if I waited... Yup, mine did that =exact= same thing too ... (a lot more, like stalling, bucking, and messing up the trani's shifting) It would stall from one to ten times on cold start; and real rough when it did start. ... would stall a minute into the drive if I had to stop @ a light, but usually not later. All this evolved over months.

However, if I put the key to operate and waited, it would not. I believe this is because the filiment that is the MAS is heated (it says the words "hot wire" in the Mercedes star Diagnosis computer on the panel that measures its readings)... I'm guessing turning the car to operate allows it time to heat up. Good analogy to the glow-plugs in that case, just outside the engine. ;)

So as you gather, the problem I had that is just as you describe (but got much worse over time) was the MAS. You'd be surprised how the cars can continue to drive with a bad MAS.

The guy who did my engine swap owns his own Star Diagnosis computer. He plugged it into my car. The MAS measurements read "within spec"; there was less then 1ms of injector adaption being applied. He was puzzled, because he knew from his years of diagnosis work, what I described to him meant "bad MAS".

However, he then went to another panel that measured the metering of air in Kgrams/hour, and @ idle it was reading 12, should have been 16 (on my V8 ; dunno the right value for yours) ; and when he rev'd the engine, it never read above 100. After installing the new MAS, idle reading was spot on @ 16, and when he rev'd the engine, reading was in the 600's. :eek:

Biggest change driving after the new MAS is responsivness in the 1K - 3K range; and it is now easy to take of slowly and easily where before it would always lurch (which I like but the wifie did not). That all makes sense, because the highest sensitivity needed in the metering of airflow is required when the throttle is slightly cracked, and RPMs are low.

[benzonline]

Hmm you could be right then. I am having a problem with the boost pressure as when the car is kickedown at certain speeds below 40mph there is no boost but that seems to be the air flap actuator.

The mas is probably aswell a culprit.

I have no check engine light though...did you?

[c55m8o]

Originally posted by benzonline
I have no check engine light though...did you? I did eventually get a check engine light ... but that was after a few thousand miles and weeks of the car sputtering on startup and stalling when cold. I got the check engine light one afternoon when I had to go into NYC ... the car stalled twice during the trip in, while hot. It had never stalled when hot before -- here's something to consider... I will admit, trying to save some money when 93 octane was $3.89, I put 91 octane in it! :eek: :mad: (but it was only a 1/2 a tank on top of 93 octane, which I'd assume makes a tank of about 92 octane) ... the check engine light came on after the second time it stalled when hot.

[Costa]

Anyone have this issue on their C230 Kompressor engine? After the car sits for 8 or more hours, it starts right up but then chugs and gives a few good 3-6 shakes of the engine then is smooth as butter. Only does it with the cold starting and does not shake or anything after it does that.

According to records spark plus were done not that long ago and all services up to date from MB. Car has 80 000kms.

What should I look at and is this major?

Hi Everyone,

My first post so I hope I am doing it right. I have the same problem with my 1999 C230 Kompressor chugging on a cold start for 3-6 shakes but otherwise purrs. I had a check engine light which is now cleared... 400 miles and going. I changed the upline and downline on the O2 sensors, the Mass Air Sensor, fuel filter, air filter and cabin filter. There was also a rubber hose on the left front side of the engine that was worn out so I changed that too. Not sure what that did but it appears not to have liquids but air going through it. The check engine light after clearing with machine still came back on. I changed the downline O2 sensor the second time and the check engine light cleared itself. So I had a bad O2 sensor.

No more check engine light but still chugging on a cold start. Changed engine oil and filter, changed spark plugs and flushed radiator fluid. Even poured B-12 Chemtool Carburetor/Fuel Treatment and Injector Cleaner in my fuel tank but it did not seem to help. Has anybody found the solution to cold chugging start???

Also, I can hear the turbo kick in but no power? What's going on there? Please help, thank you.

[sicelo]

checking of codes is never a bad idea before you spend too much

[Costa]

The check engine light is not on and there were no error codes when checked? I recently changed the MAF. Thinking it may be defective but don't have the right equipment to check it. I will try the turning the key to heat the element? to see if that works... stay tuned.