`98 C-230 shock install tips

[Ethan]

For any other novices like me, two tips on installing shocks on a C-230.

1) you need a stubby 17mm combination wrench. plus a 17mm socket - deep. The stubby is the only way to hold the upper-shock mounting bolt when either loosening or tightening the 17mm lock-nut bolt above it.

2) and you'll need a spare floor jack to lift the lower control arm. both for removing and fitting the shock. Because when the front suspension is at full droop the steering knuckle gets in the way.

Easy job overall, and after 78K miles new shocks on my car cured tons of little irritations;
Cured what I though was a small wheel balance issue, cured what I thought was worn motor mount vibrations - I'll double check this tomorrow when I start may car cold in the morning, It returned steering accuracy when lane changing. And cured brake dive at 5 mph at 80 mph just overall better front end control.

And this was onlt replacing my front shocks, tomorrow I'll do my back shocks.

[audiophile]

cool, let us know about the rears tomorrow. i have the same car, and i'm planning to real soon.:cool:

[Ethan]

some more tips.
depending on which shocks you buy, the Bilstien HD's come with hardware for the job; they provide one locknut for the top of the shock, and you'll have to reuse the nut below the locknut. Mercedes provides both locknut and upper nut in their shock harware kit available at the dealer.

When you tighten the top shock nut in engine compartment or trunk, use the pliers that comes in the Mercedes tool kit to hold the very top of the shock stem as you use the 17mm wrench to tighten shock bolt to around 23 ft lbs.The upper lock-nut should be guessed to about 13 ft lbs.

Bottom shock bolt in the control arm gets tightened to 41 ft lbs.

Plastic cover on rear control arm uses two 10mm nuts and then snaps off.

rear shock at least Bilstein HD, you can compress buy hand and quickly locate bottom in control arm and then insert top into hole before it rebounds out.

Once wheels are on and car is down on ground that is when you can tighten top bolts, then raise car again and tighten lower mounting bolt on control arm.

For me the front shocks made a big difference, it is raining so I cannot accurately compare the changes with new rear shocks. Plus I had the weight of all my tools in the trunk for the ride home from where I did the work. But it seems to me that at over seventy mph the car drives much better then I can remember.

This isn't a step by step instruction and I wish I had a diagram to show parts.

Also I used a trim tool remover from Eastwood to remove the plastic snaps in the trunk compartment to access top of shock. Any sharp blade will work but a V - shaped blade works best and without chancing a breaking of the snaps.

Also take attention to parts; bolts, washers, rubber bump stops and rubber donuts so you replace with new items properly.

[c280nz]

good quick write-up.
Also you dont need a deep socket to undo the top lock bolts, 2 17mm ring spanners will do the job, or i think as you call them 2 17mm combination wrenchs.
that was only a picky point tho ;-)

[audiophile]

tighten shock bolt to around 23 ft lbs.The upper lock-nut should be guessed to about 13 ft lbs.
that's it:eek: i thought it would've been more than that.:confused:

[Ethan]

think about it.

for the lower mounting at the control arm the bolt sitting lengthwise is what hold the shock in place, the tightening of that bolt is simply to prevent the bolt form vibrating out horizontally.

For the top shock attachment - even if you hang the car off a lift with the tires drooping, the maximum downward movement determined by the length of the lower control arm and spring isn't enough to pull the top of the shock out of it's hole. The top attachment point is determined by making sure it offers secure anchoraging but also the tightness of those bolts effects how much the rubber buffers of the upper shock mount are squished and how well they will isolate out vibrations.

What is really amazing is how much distance an engine piston travels at 6K rpm. 30 meters a second ( up and down ) - I think that's what I read.