CEL p0133, p0136, and p0130

[MECP Must Be]

I searched but cannot seem to pinpoint my problem.

My names Brian btw, I drive a 98' c230.

Ok, so my check engine light came on. I got it scanned and basically the car was running fine so I put off buying the o2 sensors.

I disconnected my battery to put in my system ( I do it for a living, Mobile Electronics Certified Professional :) ).

Now when I connected my battery my CEL was OUT and the car ran funny.

When I floor it, the cars rpms jump as they should but the car don't ever take off, just kind of creeps.

Replaced the 1st O2 Sensor. Then when I got to the rear, it is ON TOP of the cat! So I basically have to break the rusted bolts off the exuast to replace the fucking sensor.

So I took it back to Advanced Auto when the light came back on. I got the following codes.

DTC(codes):
a.)
p0133- o2 sensor/ CKT Slow Respondse-(bank 1 Sensor 1)

DTC Pending(codes):
a.)
p0136- o2 sensor/circuit malfunction-(bank 1 sensor 2)

p0130- o2 sensor/ Circuit Malfunction-(bank 1 sensor 1)

I find it this strange the car only has 2 o2 sensors correct?

Please help methis is becoming a nightmare!
:confused: :confused:

[MECP Must Be]

Mother f*** this damn car. I am starting to lose my patience. I unhooked the battery for a good hour and hooked it back up, car still runs like a dog with no back legs!:angry:

Someone, anyone, please help before I take a match to my gas tank!

[MECP Must Be]

I hate to be annoying here, but someone, any suggestions?!

[jnenad16]

I'd help you out, but I'd rather leave it to the pro's such as slammed_c or benzaddict. I might misguide you since I havent worked professionally on cars in nearly a year.

nenad

[MECP Must Be]

Originally posted by jnenad16
I'd help you out, but I'd rather leave it to the pro's such as slammed_c or benzaddict. I might misguide you since I havent worked professionally on cars in nearly a year.

nenad

Well I am going to pay a shop 125 bucks to put in my other o2 sensor. It is ON TOP of the cat, which is such a shit design imo.
The exaust has to be dropped and the bolts are rusted and will break on removal...

Seems like to me it is something worse than just the o2 sensor, but I pray it isn't these cars are a little pricy for parts ;)

Just throw suggestions out there. :rolleyes:

[JRE320]

You rather spend $125 bucks for sure your car will be in good shape.

[MECP Must Be]

slammed_c or benzaddict where might you two be!?:confused:

[benzaddict]

I'm right here, but your explanation of your complaint is pretty vague. You just disconnected the battery and now it won't run? Or does it hesitate under throttle? Does it idle smoothly? You said 'it don't ever take off', is the trans slipping or is it a throttle/hesitation problem.

Just disconnecting the battery won't cause a running complaint. The only thing that can possibly happen if you disconnect it for a long time is that it will lose it's throttle position memory and will need to relearn itself by doing a throttle actuator sweep. This is done automatically if you turn the key to position 2 and don't start it, let it sit for 2 minutes. Usually the symptoms of when this happens is the idle hunts badly up and down from 500-1500rpm, is yours doing this?

Your 2 codes for the o2 sensors aren't a big deal and the rear sensor certainly won't give you a hesitation, the front might but you said you've already replaced it. The rear sensor can be done without pulling the exhaust: just raise the rear of the car and loosen the rear exhaust hangers and let the entire exhaust system hang down about 6 inches at the tailpipe, then you can get in there with an o2 sensor socket.

Did you alter your wiring while installing your sound system and possibly tap into a circuit to rob voltage from somehwere you shouldn't? Maybe drilled in the trunk and hit a wire for the 5v reference of the fuel pressure sensor? I can think of several scenarios, I've had to fix a lot of issues created by stereo installs. My guess is you did something while you had the battery disconnected. Retrace your steps and see if anything comes to mind.

Good luck and get a little more specific about your problem and symptoms. We're all here to help, but you need to help us help you.

[MECP Must Be]

The car idles fairly smooth. Idles somewhat high (1400rpms) when I first start it then lowers down to about 700rpms after a bit of it running. Every once ina while the car will shut off if I put it in gear right when I start it. If I put the car in neutral it will rev through-out the rpms maybe a little slower than usual, no sputtering or anything noticable.

The problem is if i give it more than 1/3 throttle the cars RPM's will jump up and then it drops down in gear and slowly creeps.... As opposed to pulling strong.

The stereo system is pretty straight forward, ran rcas, remote from headunit. (ran fine after this.)

The I disconnected the ground from the chassis to the battery. grounded my amp with the battery ground wire. Got my power from the positive terminal on my battery. That's all. I did notice a high voltage when I first started the car, around 14.3v. I thought this was strange but it has since lowered to a more resonable level 13.6v.

I will try the throttle sweep.

It almost seems like the transmission is slipping, but it feels strong at 1/3 throttle. That's all I can think of right now.

[benzaddict]

Originally posted by MECP Must Be
The problem is if i give it more than 1/3 throttle the cars RPM's will jump up and then it drops down in gear and slowly creeps.... As opposed to pulling strong.


Ahaaa! That's a much better description. Now go buy yourself a new Air Mass sensor, or some people call it a MAF or MAS, and you should be fine. Your symptom is classic for a bad MAF sensor: Engine revs up but serious lack of power, the more you press on the gas, the worse it gets.

[jnolte]

Originally posted by benzaddict
Ahaaa! That's a much better description. Now go buy yourself a new Air Mass sensor, or some people call it a MAF or MAS, and you should be fine. Your symptom is classic for a bad MAF sensor: Engine revs up but serious lack of power, the more you press on the gas, the worse it gets.

sounds like my ole C36 back in the day. Easy fix, get one from www.importec.com cheaper than dealership



EDIT: wow i just checked the price on importec its 340.00 dollars now!! quite in increase from when I have to buy one for my c36 at 250.00

2nd EDIT: im dumb the c36 one is cheaper still at 297.00 i guess the 1998 and up are more drain on the wallet!

I also just looked at the price for the C43 and its only 219.00 I wonder y the 230 one is so much more!

[MECP Must Be]

WOuldn't I be getting a MAF Sensor code, or do they not show up? Pretty expensive...

[MECP Must Be]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8036614390

The above link is a brand new Bosch Air Mass Meter. $175 plus $18 shipping.

I know this is a great deal but I have to be sure that this is the issue. I don't make much money and really would hate to throw it at the car if it didn't need it.

Let me know if there is anyway to test it. I am going to replace the rear o2 sensor myself. Actually I am going to our storage unit to get the jack stands and have at it.

Thx again for the help and Keep it up!

You all are life savers:)

[benzaddict]

Here's your guarantee it's going to fix it: I think so having not looked at the car and diagnosed it from my laptop for free! If you want a guarantee you have to pay for it, a certain saying comes to mind with cake and eating it too.....

If you want to test it you'd have to get an OBD2 scan tool and watch actual values to see the load ratings vs kg rating the air mass is reading vs voltage signal. Or take it to a shop that can do it for you. I don't like throwing parts at cars anymore than anyone else, but if you don't want to pay to have it professionally diagnosed this is the best you're going to get.

[jnolte]

Originally posted by MECP Must Be
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8036614390

The above link is a brand new Bosch Air Mass Meter. $175 plus $18 shipping.

I know this is a great deal but I have to be sure that this is the issue. I don't make much money and really would hate to throw it at the car if it didn't need it.

Let me know if there is anyway to test it. I am going to replace the rear o2 sensor myself. Actually I am going to our storage unit to get the jack stands and have at it.

Thx again for the help and Keep it up!

You all are life savers:)

if you have a freind or someone that has a c230 swap it with theres and see if anything changes

[jnenad16]

Originally posted by MECP Must Be
WOuldn't I be getting a MAF Sensor code, or do they not show up? Pretty expensive... I'd suggest you dont second guess benzaddict, cuz he knows benzes better than anyone on this board.

nenad

[Denlasoul]

Originally posted by jnenad16
I'd suggest you dont second guess benzaddict, cuz he knows benzes better than anyone on this board.

nenad
I would have to agree. Based on our conversations and work done to my car, I wouldnt second guess him either.

Though, Bosch MAF's are crappy.

[MECP Must Be]

Looking back on my comment, I am a idiot. Sorry BenzAddict. I will go ahead and replace the MAF. I appreciate your help everyone. Any suggestions on a good MAF ?

[benzaddict]

Originally posted by MECP Must Be
Looking back on my comment, I am a idiot.

No you're not, you're just trying to fix your car as cheap as you can, just like the rest of us. That's what makes this forum so great is bouncing problems and ideas off of other members and sharing info-it helps everyone. You just can't count 100% on anyone's advise because they are only going off of your description and not actually testing the car.

[MECP Must Be]

I understand. I appreciate your patience. Would a bad maf make the car idle bad? My car idles normally. Just wondering. Thx again.

[benzaddict]

Usually the idle will be fine, only hesitation under load. Sometimes it leaves codes (P0170/P0173 for fuel trim malfunction) but sometimes it won't leave any codes.

As far as where to get one and what brand, the only brand I know of is Bosch. I haven't seen any other brands, even the rebuilt one's on ebay look like Bosch inserts. I would just look for the best price and hopefully they have a return policy in case it doesn't fix it, doubtful though.

[MECP Must Be]

With what i have heard about our cars, Having an extra Maf laying around will come in handy :)