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sanf
06-26-2006, 05:27 AM
the steering wheel is little to the right when the car is going straight. is it hard to take it apart and align it myself or should i just go and get a front wheel alignment?

strictlyspeakin
06-26-2006, 07:01 AM
If you are thinking about removing the steering wheel to move it a spline or two and bring it back into straight, let me share this with you...

On my desk, yes, my desk. I have the two most difficult things I have ever had to do on a car.

The first is from my 77 300D. It's the plug from the side of the engine block that had to be removed to install a block heater.

The second is from my 84 190D. It's the bolt that holds the steering wheel onto the column.

My dad attempted to remove the same bolt from his 90 500SL. He failed. I have (thankfully) not had an need to attempt it in my 94 C220.

mbLova
06-26-2006, 07:07 AM
Where in central jersey are you?

IF you are avail hit up the Jersey meet on July 9th

sanf
06-26-2006, 07:23 AM
Originally posted by strictlyspeakin
If you are thinking about removing the steering wheel to move it a spline or two and bring it back into straight, let me share this with you...

On my desk, yes, my desk. I have the two most difficult things I have ever had to do on a car.

The first is from my 77 300D. It's the plug from the side of the engine block that had to be removed to install a block heater.

The second is from my 84 190D. It's the bolt that holds the steering wheel onto the column.

My dad attempted to remove the same bolt from his 90 500SL. He failed. I have (thankfully) not had an need to attempt it in my 94 C220.

haha, arite.. i will get it done at a MB dealer

strictlyspeakin
06-26-2006, 09:27 AM
mbLova---I sent you PM. Let me know.

sanf---I hate to talk you out of a DIY. I figure that if I can do it, you can too. It just may be better to pay the $80 to have the car aligned with the wheel straightened. More than likely it wasn't completely straight during the last alignment.

The bolt is a countersunk bolt with a chamfered edge that runs about 10mm. It gets pretty tight there because the bolt and the column are dissimilar metals that are touching. Usually not a good thing. It takes a 10mm allen head. And to top it off, they use loc-tite on the length of the threads (about 15mm).

This amounts to trying to put so much strain on the steering lock that you'll be afraid of breaking it. I know I was. I found an additional creative way to brace the wheel.

sanf
06-26-2006, 10:07 AM
just got a quote for $199 from the dealer for alignment. they are out of control. i will go elsewhere. I need an alignment because I just installed a set of new ball joints and tie rod ends myself. that was ok... ball joints were a little tough to get out and put back on.

Proven Guilty
06-26-2006, 10:30 AM
you dont need an alignment if it was the lower ball joints, but the tie rods.. its likely :)

sanf
06-26-2006, 11:03 AM
Originally posted by Proven Guilty
you dont need an alignment if it was the lower ball joints, but the tie rods.. its likely :)

especially when the car is going straight and the steering wheel is to the right @10 degree.

but its all good. the job alone @ the dealer would be at close to 1k.

sanf
06-29-2006, 12:47 PM
the place where i usually get my alignment done is booked until next weekend. so i called 3 benz dealer.. all booked until mid july. so i went to sears..they saw my car. 1st thing they said was" its got big rims.. we wont do it", then added.. its lower. no way.

i said.. just get it to the closest spec. it will not be factory. its fine. if u want , i can change my front rims back to 15s if its easier for you guys.

then one of the guy comes out and said ' we cant do it, even if the car was totally factory, we can't do it cuz its a mercedes"

why are ppl so afraid to work on bmw or benz? or charge at at premium for the same job? fuk it.

martattack
06-29-2006, 02:57 PM
You could try other wheel shops like Les Schwab. Also other local auto repair places often have an alignment rack.

Martin