...Custom Intake Manifold beginning PICS...

[Pagz]

the rail comes in meter lengths so can be chopped off to suit...then you drill holes for the injectors and weld fittings to the ends...instant fuel rail!

damn!...well at least it is still coming!!!...two weeks isnt too bad...its likley to be three+ though lol...

damn when did i order those pistons...like 6 weeks ago,last week he said they had to go back to the coaters as he wasnt happy with the finish ....my CC has been debited now he said they should be there in 5-7 days last tuesday...they better be here this week or ima freak out!!.......

well i guess thats two votes for blue....blue it is

[Pagz]

Heres a better pic of the rail,the fittings where once blue but we have to remove the anodizing to weld them on!
have also just been using the coffee table and my die grinder to bring the rail closer to the supports so that OEM angle specs on the injectors remain similar...

[SLAMMED_C]

Originally posted by 23K
the rail comes in meter lengths so can be chopped off to suit...then you drill holes for the injectors and weld fittings to the ends...instant fuel rail!

damn!...well at least it is still coming!!!...two weeks isnt too bad...its likley to be three+ though lol...

damn when did i order those pistons...like 6 weeks ago,last week he said they had to go back to the coaters as he wasnt happy with the finish ....my CC has been debited now he said they should be there in 5-7 days last tuesday...they better be here this week or ima freak out!!.......

well i guess thats two votes for blue....blue it is

I see.. is all "custom" fuel rail done this way too?.. just buy it by the meter?
looks really trick.
yeh I know.. its still coming!!.. hey!!.. dont jinx it mang!.. dont say 3 weeks!!
I need that KW kit ASAP!!
well at least yo uknow the pistons are still around!!.. and on their way soon by the sounds of things.. CC charged means the shit is on its way!
blue it is dude.. I see.. thats a nice pic.. so you put those grooves into the rail so it sits against the spacers on the manifold better. how will the injectors stay in.. the stock one has clips on the one half of the fuel rail I think.. will yours be held in place from the pressure of the mounting brackets?

[rollinrealbig]

so the fuel rail looks cool! but what is the purpose of it ? add anything ?

[Pagz]

Originally posted by SLAMMED_C
I see.. is all "custom" fuel rail done this way too?.. just buy it by the meter?
looks really trick.
yeh I know.. its still coming!!.. hey!!.. dont jinx it mang!.. dont say 3 weeks!!
I need that KW kit ASAP!!
well at least yo uknow the pistons are still around!!.. and on their way soon by the sounds of things.. CC charged means the shit is on its way!
blue it is dude.. I see.. thats a nice pic.. so you put those grooves into the rail so it sits against the spacers on the manifold better. how will the injectors stay in.. the stock one has clips on the one half of the fuel rail I think.. will yours be held in place from the pressure of the mounting brackets?

Yip most of the time it is...i think Holly make some also in anodized blue and plain...theres no point in having it blue before maching it though!...i got mine locally for $190 per meter,but i only got around 320mm,plus 15% discount...so not tooo bad!

ha ha ha ok ok im thinking two weeks....twwwwo weeeks

Yip the grooves bring it in nice and close to the spacers!
good spotting!,Yes the new rail doesnt retain the injectors like the OEM rail...so the spacers will take the load!,they should take it easily as there bolted to the head...the injectors are a great fit and theres very little to no movement when there in place!...so hopfully it works ok...im fairly sure most performance systems are like this!

[Pagz]

Originally posted by rollinrealbig
so the fuel rail looks cool! but what is the purpose of it ? add anything ?

for the looks...

actually i did it because the OEM unit has all those bulky bits hunging off it that get in the way of my new intake runners!...plus you dont get the pressure drop from all those nasty angles inside the rail...you will understand next time you pear inside yours!...and less pressure drop means more efficiency and less load on you pump...thus less load on your alternator and .00001 hp gain

[Pagz]

i may still be able to retain them from the rail if need be by tapping some retaining fittings into the rail...might do that yet hmmm

[SLAMMED_C]

Originally posted by 23K
Yip most of the time it is...i think Holly make some also in anodized blue and plain...theres no point in having it blue before maching it though!...i got mine locally for $190 per meter,but i only got around 320mm,plus 15% discount...so not tooo bad!

ha ha ha ok ok im thinking two weeks....twwwwo weeeks

Yip the grooves bring it in nice and close to the spacers!
good spotting!,Yes the new rail doesnt retain the injectors like the OEM rail...so the spacers will take the load!,they should take it easily as there bolted to the head...the injectors are a great fit and theres very little to no movement when there in place!...so hopfully it works ok...im fairly sure most performance systems are like this!

exactly.. its just gonna get all scratched up while making it, no point in having it anodized before its actually permanently on the car!
wow!!.. $190 per meter!!! fuk me!!
yeh.. thats right Paul... 2 weeks.. right.. 2 WEEKS!
what can I say!!.. I can notice things sometimes!! figured.. just the load on the fuel rail from the mounting points. well it looks trick man. keeping stock injectors?

[Pagz]

Originally posted by SLAMMED_C
exactly.. its just gonna get all scratched up while making it, no point in having it anodized before its actually permanently on the car!
wow!!.. $190 per meter!!! fuk me!!
yeh.. thats right Paul... 2 weeks.. right.. 2 WEEKS!
what can I say!!.. I can notice things sometimes!! figured.. just the load on the fuel rail from the mounting points. well it looks trick man. keeping stock injectors?

also may need to stop the injectors from turning,so may end up retaining them now....hmmm mooore work lol

I think we will use the OEM injectors until we have the Motec ecu running...after that they will definitly need upsizing!!!

[rollinrealbig]

so out of the blue, ive talked to someone who installed larger cc injectors on his w203, he said he felt a nice gain from it.

im guessing that eats more gas right ? and gains ... what gain are we talking about ? ... I dnt think those injectors are a cheap mod, couple hundred am I correct ?

[Pagz]

Originally posted by rollinrealbig
so out of the blue, ive talked to someone who installed larger cc injectors on his w203, he said he felt a nice gain from it.

im guessing that eats more gas right ? and gains ... what gain are we talking about ? ... I dnt think those injectors are a cheap mod, couple hundred am I correct ?

hmmm interesting Q man...i think Jnenad once discussed it somewhere...i dont understand it fully...as i thought it would only work if the current system was conservitive under open loop conditions ...another words heavy load/WOT conditions...

so installing larger injectors would shift the A/F ratio under open loop closer to a more power producing A/F ratio...i would think this could be achievable with a mild increase in fuel pressure rather than new injectors?...anyone else comment??

[spm 16v benz]

Hey 23K

I am new to this forum, I was so inspired by your turbo conversion that I decided to start one for myself. Although I don't own a w202 I have many w201(190e's). So I decided with one of them to put a w202 kompressor engine into one then turbo it. Have you got a price yet on how much it cost you for that flange?

[ncd]

hey 23k, I think I might have to follow you and loose the m45 all togther, if i can ever come close to your godlyness ha ha.

I dont know if it was the same for you but, I think its mater of

1) space economics in engine bay
2) simplication of the installation
3) I just feel that ,if the charger is going to cause so much rattleing and drama after a few thous miles ... it cant be worth it for the compexity that would be added.. trying to keep them both.
4) surely the whole car is lighter with out the m45
5) engine_stress--; (one less belt/pully to turn)






not to mention you can sell your m45 on..

I gues the fact that its not there does not affect the the rest of the belts..??

I cant say Ive ever seen the post where you talk about your headers and such??

[Pagz]

Originally posted by ncd
hey 23k, I think I might have to follow you and loose the m45 all togther, if i can ever come close to your godlyness ha ha.

I dont know if it was the same for you but, I think its mater of

1) space economics in engine bay
2) simplication of the installation
3) I just feel that ,if the charger is going to cause so much rattleing and drama after a few thous miles ... it cant be worth it for the compexity that would be added.. trying to keep them both.
4) surely the whole car is lighter with out the m45
5) engine_stress--; (one less belt/pully to turn)






not to mention you can sell your m45 on..

I gues the fact that its not there does not affect the the rest of the belts..??

I cant say Ive ever seen the post where you talk about your headers and such??

ha ha ha you dare to follow in my foot steps....

Space is definatly an issue if you were to keep the m45,as im right hand drive i have the steering box there also!...
Keeping it simple is a good way to go...you will have plenty of other more important issues that will take your time...like ECU tuning,exhaust and header work,IC?,intake,bypass,pipe tappings,oil feed,oil return,water feed(maybe)

Thats assume you do go ahead with the conversion...
when you remove the SC....you will also remove the whole cast braket that holds the alternator and tensioner as well,it will need to be replaced with the N/A engines braket which shifts the alternator up higher(remember to get the matching bolts as there all diferent lengths as apose to the SC braket bolts)
you will need a new alternator pully,as the SC system one is smaller,and also the N/A belt.
It is up to you weather or not you replace the crank pully with the N/A model version,which is effectivly the exact same pully but without the extra SC pully attached...you can easily have the SC pully machined off it...thats what i did...took my guys all of three minutes when i randomly called in after work one night...(i also have the N/A pully which i used after i had the issue of the first one coming loose due to me not tightening it to 300Nm)

At this stage the car will be pretty much out of action...you could however slap a filter over the intake to the IC and carfully drive the car in N/A form to the fabricators...it should run fine.

Before or if you decide to attemp this project,go and see a company who tunes Euro cars and see if your ECU is reprogramable,mine wasnt so iv had to go for a full stand alone system which really takes cost to another level.

Hmm theres a thread here somewhere on the header work...heres some old pics,this manifold has now been cut up and thrown away because of the clearance issues...
also I think the heat wrap does more harm than good by keeping too much head it...it maybe best just to have the header ceramic coated and wrap just the down pipe etc.















Pretty tight up in there with the steering box!

[Pagz]

Originally posted by spm 16v benz
Hey 23K

I am new to this forum, I was so inspired by your turbo conversion that I decided to start one for myself. Although I don't own a w202 I have many w201(190e's). So I decided with one of them to put a w202 kompressor engine into one then turbo it. Have you got a price yet on how much it cost you for that flange?

Hey,
...putting the M111K engine in sounds interesting!...why not turbo what you already have?

The intake manifold flange cost me $1200NZD,it should have been $2025NZD but knew the guys so got a great deal...took them alot of time to make it!...no easy task thats for sure!

[spm 16v benz]

Originally posted by 23K
Hey,
...putting the M111K engine in sounds interesting!...why not turbo what you already have?

The intake manifold flange cost me $1200NZD,it should have been $2025NZD but knew the guys so got a great deal...took them alot of time to make it!...no easy task thats for sure!

I could turbo what I already have, but its only a 2.3 4cyl SOHC. It would take alot more work because the engine still runs the KE system which cannot be adjusted for turbo specs and has no fuel rail. I would also have to compelety basically build everything up from the ground and change the internals. I then thought about using a 2.3 16v cosworth engine but it would be exactly the same but with a DOHC engine.

So after looking at the kompressor engine it seems the most logical, because I don't have to change the internals unless I am going for serious horsepower(maybe some fordgesdown the line). It has the fuel system already setup, so basically all I need to do is fabricate a exhaust and inlet manifolds then get a computer and loom but I think I know what I am goin to use.

Could you find out how much the guys who made the flange for you or do you have them, the machining co-ordinates?

[NEA-4311]

Now thats what I call tuning... Love the result of your exaust system dude, my god, how much money have u spent on this? Money well spent, how many HPs is it gonna be about?

[ncd]

23k you rock man.. I dont like to put it into how much have you spent, seeing the quality of your installation Its close to factory standard, how much would you say your 202 is worth after it all

[omeyhomey]

hey 23K,


awesome exhaust setup but PLEASE for the love of god replace that junk glasspack resonator which a 22" magnaflow resonator it will sound 1000 times better (I speak from experience). It would be a shame to ruine such a good exhaust system with a crummy sounding resonator. just a suggestion

[Pagz]

Hey,

NEA-4311,
Thanks dude...Yer i stopped counting along time ago for good reason lol...if i were to tell you where i stopped at you would freak for sure...not sure how much hp she will produce we will see when the new setup is running somtime in the new year.

ncd,
thanks...lol prolly less than a stock 230K


omeyhomey,
haha ok heres the story back when i had a mercedes.......my first ever experimental exhaust was a 2.5" one resonator and twin straight through muffs out the rear...needless to say it was insane loud.
next mod was to install a second resonator...it helped but was still to loud...then i found the brand new AMG muff at a local dealership...800NZD was hella cheap because the customer who bought it in didnt take it ...so i had it welded on and bam quiet and smooth....PERFECT.
then we did the turbo install,i couldnt decide on how we were going to do a high flow 3" muffler that was resonably quiet...so we just welded the C36 muff up,the resonator in the middle is SS packed

Not so long ago i used 43853423423 100mm cuting blades and took the C36 muffler apart to modify for a 3" system,which turned out to be a VERY bad idea....not only was it packed with glass...but was pretty much impossible to convert to a higher flow design...so its currently rotting in my back yard.

The new idea was to take a big risk and completely redesign the muffler....which will be a 3" in and twin 2" out with a "loop" design inside,another benifit of doing this was so i could choose where the exhaust enters the rear of the muffler.i will also fill it with as much perferated material and SS packing as i can to keep noise supressed and try for mild performance note...
as i dont do noisy exhausts anymore(have had way to many and think there far from cool)... turbo induction noise takes the cake imo

Paul

[Pagz]

Originally posted by spm 16v benz
I could turbo what I already have, but its only a 2.3 4cyl SOHC. It would take alot more work because the engine still runs the KE system which cannot be adjusted for turbo specs and has no fuel rail. I would also have to compelety basically build everything up from the ground and change the internals. I then thought about using a 2.3 16v cosworth engine but it would be exactly the same but with a DOHC engine.

So after looking at the kompressor engine it seems the most logical, because I don't have to change the internals unless I am going for serious horsepower(maybe some fordgesdown the line). It has the fuel system already setup, so basically all I need to do is fabricate a exhaust and inlet manifolds then get a computer and loom but I think I know what I am goin to use.

Could you find out how much the guys who made the flange for you or do you have them, the machining co-ordinates?

Hey,
i see i see,thats a huge undertaking to get a M111K and then put it in your 190!...i would have thought buying a nice 230K would have been cheaper?

yer the guys did save the co-ords but it can only be used on there machine...also the flange has been modified by myself to take a 50mm 3mm wall(which was about 5mm) alloy pipe...as you can see from the older and newer pics...this took about 10 hours with the dremel for a nice finish



Because the m111k used DBW iv also swapped out that unit for a direct wire TB...thats also alittle bigger as the OEM unit is about 57 where the new Skunk2 racing one is 68...this usually style is better to tune with the Motec ecu having TPS etc





Paul

[c280nz]

paul do you have any more pictures of cool shit just to post up, every time i read updates on your posts theres more bling ass pieces sitting around
i bet your house is like a performance car shop

[trymonlam]

he's got a really weird looking fish sculpture.

[omeyhomey]

Hey 23K,

Couldn't u use a Piggy back like SAFC 2 to also use a big bore throttle body, it can do throttle by wire as well can't it? SAFCs are so much easier to tune than a all out Tec3 ECU or etc. just an idea.

[c280nz]

Originally posted by omeyhomey
Hey 23K,

Couldn't u use a Piggy back like SAFC 2 to also use a big bore throttle body, it can do throttle by wire as well can't it? SAFCs are so much easier to tune than a all out Tec3 ECU or etc. just an idea.

i think the bigger issue is the lack ignition timing variation in our cars just using the piggyback you describe???
altho i hope to just use one of those on my planed low boost setup

correct me if im wrong tho