hps sc install- plus tech help please read

[expo5.0]

ah!

i'm missing a piece- i have already fixed the problem then

-drew

[Section 8]

expo how is the sc working out for you on the 43

[expo5.0]

well so far so good? it looks nice sitting in there half installed... so far it's gone very smoothly putting it in though, other than the missing parts, but those haven't been too hard to work around.

[Nitrogenbalance]

Here is a picture of some of the parts. The elbow you need that bolts up to the original TB location is second in from the top left.

http://www.geocities.com/gregcclk55/...all.htm?200710

Here is the original filter location. The HPS parts included an odd silicon bend with a tiny filter behind the headlamp area. Area is tight and everything rubs when the motor moves. I worked but it wasn't right.


[IMG][/IMG]

In this picture(kinda useless) you can see a blue 45degree elbow following the TB location next to the blower. The elbow conects to the MAF housing below which ends with the filter. I got longer and less wide filter and it sits almost behind the fog light. One thing that might help when you get parts is that the MAF housing is 3.5in and the TB is 3in. I still haven't gotten a camera so I'll try to get better pics of this.
[IMG][/IMG]

Here is the belt diagram the top left would be the SC pulley the directly to the right would be the idler pulley. Its not my best MS paint work.

[IMG][/IMG][URL=http://]

[expo5.0]

shoot!

well, i see how it is supposed to work etc.

however, i'm missing too many of those pieces for it to work exactly the same way as that with my car!

that piece for the back of the motor is straight up gone!

i think i can make it work though without having to spend any more $$$

i did call hps in regards to getting a new coolant tank- big mistake lol. Adam didn't even call back he just send a bitchy email.

[Nitrogenbalance]

What exactly was the email??

The throttle body should be installed where you currently have the filter. Connect that to the MAF housing and then the filter. You'll need to extend the MAF/TB wiring to reach the front of the motor.

Where your filter currently sits? is there a flange on the end of that pipe that is square with 4 holes to accept the TB? If so you could just make a copy of that same flange. This would mount up to the rear of the intake manifold allowing you to just bend some 3in pipe for the rear of the motor.

[expo5.0]

i have a piece that looks like it is supposed to fit the back of the motor as your saying- however, it doesn't clear the firewall...

I was already planning on fabricating a piece (already 1/2 done) to make it work- but i'd love a picture of the piece that you have- as i'm curious if the piece i got in the kit was the right one or not.

-drew

[expo5.0]

nitrogenbalance- where'd you get the engne covers your using now/

[Nitrogenbalance]

Originally posted by expo5.0
i have a piece that looks like it is supposed to fit the back of the motor as your saying- however, it doesn't clear the firewall...

I was already planning on fabricating a piece (already 1/2 done) to make it work- but i'd love a picture of the piece that you have- as i'm curious if the piece i got in the kit was the right one or not.

-drew

It should clear the firewall? Did you remove the TB from the back of the intake manifold yet? You need to remove the TB also, that would free up a few inches. If not than I agree that the part may be different. I'll try and get part # and pic of that area soon.

[Nitrogenbalance]

Originally posted by expo5.0
nitrogenbalance- where'd you get the engne covers your using now/

The engine cover is from an ML55 trimed slightly to fit.

[expo5.0]

i'm an idiot-

i've been reading this the whole time thinking maf and not tb

where does the tb end up moving to?

do both the tb and the maf move way up front?

i'll check your pictures etc. too in a second, but yeah, wow.

[c280nz]

haha ive also been reading this hole time also thinking i wonder if he knows the difference between a maf and tb

[Nitrogenbalance]

The TB has four bolts and square flat mounting area, ya know with the butterfly, you know what a TB is, your just confused from reading HPS literature. They can confuse an apple with an orange. Remove the TB from the back of the intake mani and that elbow pipe should mount up. Check the bolt length and flange thinckness of the new piece to double check as I'm not sure if you use the OEM mounting bolts? You may have to source some hardware as you'll need 4 for the pipe and 4 more for mounting the TB up front.

Anyways the TB mounts up to the intake pipe mounted to the supercharger. The pipe mounted to the SC's intake should have a 4 bolt flange on the end to accept the TB. From the TB you will need a 3in to 3.5in 45 degree elbow. You need to get one that goes from 3in to 3.5 because the MAF housing mounts in front of the TB but it is a 3.5in tube where the TB is 3in. You also need to trim the elbow slightly for fit. Connect the open 3.5in end of the elbow to the MAF housing and then the air filter to the MAF housing.

I really have to get you some pictures. I had someone with previous experience helping me from across the country also....

I forgot to ask, how was tapping the heads for longer mounting bolts?? It was very scary on my half as the aluminum heads aren't cheap. I was shaking while doing it....ha ha.

[Nitrogenbalance]

More MS paint work, truley an artist at heart. I hope this helps a bit.

Also, did you get the splitsecond MAF voltage clamp. I've got a brand new extra one if needed.

[IMG][/IMG]

[expo5.0]

wow- thanks so much! I'd be stuck right now without help, for sure.

Tapping the heads went very well actually- I didn't have the special tool and straight free-handed it, lol.

I did not get the voltage clamp with my kit- instead i ended up ordering psc1-001 from split second... same thing plus a little more adjustability. The guy i bought the kit from paid for it too!

It seems now that my biggest current challenge is figuring out how to run a coolant expansion tank that allows me to keep my stock windshield washer tank... i've got a couple on order that may do the trick.

-drew

[Nitrogenbalance]

Would you like the part # from the expansion tank I used. It is an audi part and was relativly cheap around $40 or so. Fits perfect. Let me know about that, and also the filter part # if you want to go that route also.

You must have the split second unit that allows you to pull timing. This will be usefull especially if you want to increase boost. However, during hot summer days the the ECU will pull timing under boost as this kit is heavily handicapped by heat. As a safe guard you could dyno in the heat and pull timing just before the knock sensors pick it up as a safeguard.

In the end it will be worth it..I was frustrated installing mine.

[Nitrogenbalance]

Here is a pic I found showing the expansion tank.

[IMG][/IMG]

Here is a dyno of what you might expect if things go well. This dyno was done around early day in the most perfect of conditions. Muliple runs I have seen the car drop 40hp due to heat soak and super high IAT's.

[IMG][/IMG]

Here is a video of what the car used to sound like. It souds much meaner now that I've done the exhaust work. This should give you a good idea of what the blower sounds like on a stock C43.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZzB4...eature=related

[expo5.0]

what about the temperature probe in the bottom of the expansion tank?

otherwise- definitely send me that part #!

my unit doesn't allow me to pull timing- it just allows me to change the way the "clamp" changes the voltage. I can upgrade beyond that down the road, but for now went with the cheapest option.

if i'd known you had the voltage clamp i'd have gone that way. This unit was only $100 though anyways.

thanks again for all the help- i'll check out the video when i'm not at work.

[c280nz]

be careful not to lean it out to much expo,
nitrobalance afr is pritty good, u should either get a wideband o2 sensor or put it on a dyno to make sure the a/f ratio is not to lean

[expo5.0]

wideband isn't all that accurate imo- unless calibrated on a dyno.

no real point in just adding one to a car.

My car will be going straight to the dyno after we get it running as well as after every subsequent modification. I'm very anal about not driving stuff until my tuner has done what he can with it.

I'd be worried about doing too many modifications with just the voltage clamp on the car and not having the "right" compensations. Of course what i have is barely a step better, but it will at least allow me something.

i'll likely be running fuel pressure, boost and voltage. With my stereo i need to be a bit careful about potential lean situations due to low voltage (and weak fuel pump output). I don't really feel that a/f or wideband will tell me anything that fuel pressure won't (once they do it's pretty much too late) and boost is fun plus helps find leaks/problems (and it's cheap)

all i'm running on the subaru right now is boost- but that will be changing to boost and fuel pressure as well.

now if i had a way to take full advantage of a wide band (tuning wise) then i'd definitely go that route and get one i coudl calibrate using the equipment on the dyno.

-drew

[c280nz]

i was meaning to use one to dial in your a/f ratio,
and they are reasonably accurate
but if you are taking it to a dyno that is what they will do,
you will have a bit of room for adjustment through fuel pressure, the voltage clamp, and bigger injectors if you choose that route.

[expo5.0]

anyone have hps directions for hte install of the voltage clamp?

or the wire colors for my maf signal and tach signal? and locations.

also, nitrogenbalance- where did you take power from for the voltage clamp? does hps directions say to use the existing power on it's way to the maf?

[expo5.0]

maybe you have the directions for the fmu installation too? haven't yet gotten to that and i know we don't have directions hopefully they might provide some insight.

[Nitrogenbalance]

Gonna throw the HPS install CD in the PC tonight. I'll see what I can dig up for this stuff. There is a fuse box that you plug the star diagnostic into, I powered the voltage clamp using power from there. I'll get back on this.....

[expo5.0]

thanks a lot man- i'm hoping to finish up installation tomorrow.