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Thread: blown sub?

  1. #1

    blown stock amp?

    I got a confusing question.

    If my stock amp is blown.. shouldn't ALL the speakers stop working??

    I feel like the speakers on the front/rear doors are either blown or very quiet... yet the ones in the back trunk area and front tweeters seem louder....?

  2. #2
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    Is this a Bose system? When did this happen?

    The front door speakers are Midrange/Bass speakers and dont play "voice" loudly. The rear door speakers are mid to high range and seem louder than the front (to me) and the back deck are purely bass boom.
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  3. #3
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    dont mean to hijack your thread but what would cause the back door speakers to stop working?
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    86 190E 2.3-16 Cosworth- Eaton SC, Mosselman piggyback, BBS Mahles, Euros, H&Rs, Koni adjustables, sportline wheel, 300te front sway, 300te end links

  4. #4
    EDIT: title should say "BLOWN STOCK AMP" and yes it's a BOSE amp. I'm also using another amp just for my subz.

    Well in order to explain what happened here is something to know.

    I have installed subs in the car. I have tapped off one of the rear trunk speakers and it also goes to my sub amp.

    Now one day the wire was loose and I reattached it WHILE the system was on and on a high volume... I saw it spark when I reconnected the wire.. but everything seemed to play still....

    However.. later on a few days.. I could swear everything sounded more calm. I did turn the subs off to see if the stock system sounded the same and it doesn't...

    almost like the mid spears (eg. front/rear door speakers) are on a VERY low tone. The Tweeters in the front and the rear trunk speakers are much louder...

    Now if I blew my stock amp.. wouldn't ALL my speakers stop working? and Why would a spark from the trunk speakers cause the mid speakers to dim down? I'd assume the trunk speakers should be on low tone if there was a short or anything....

  5. #5
    I'm not an audiophile guy...
    But the bose amp should be sophisticated enough to do discrete channels. Now how many channels is the question.

    I forget what the ohm rating was on the stock speakers but it led me to think that more than one speaker was being driven from a single channel. Speakers wired in parallel vs series...

    I remember the Bekker in my old 190 did something similar. The radio had only a left and right output going to a front/rear fader thumb wheel which split each channel into two. Thus left & right became 4 speaker instead of 2.

    A similar condition might also be the case with the Bose. All mids might be driven by 1 channel and highs by another. But again I have no practical knowledge of this Bose amp.
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  6. #6
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    Originally posted by harryt
    EDIT: title should say "BLOWN STOCK AMP" and yes it's a BOSE amp. I'm also using another amp just for my subz.

    Well in order to explain what happened here is something to know.

    I have installed subs in the car. I have tapped off one of the rear trunk speakers and it also goes to my sub amp.

    Now one day the wire was loose and I reattached it WHILE the system was on and on a high volume... I saw it spark when I reconnected the wire.. but everything seemed to play still....

    However.. later on a few days.. I could swear everything sounded more calm. I did turn the subs off to see if the stock system sounded the same and it doesn't...

    almost like the mid spears (eg. front/rear door speakers) are on a VERY low tone. The Tweeters in the front and the rear trunk speakers are much louder...

    Now if I blew my stock amp.. wouldn't ALL my speakers stop working? and Why would a spark from the trunk speakers cause the mid speakers to dim down? I'd assume the trunk speakers should be on low tone if there was a short or anything....
    wow this is what i was guessing the dumb ass audio guy did. BTW never go to the speed shop at 5 corners in easton guy scratched my wood and was told he put 4 screws through a new escalades roof installing a tv and didnt tell the owner till he cut his hand open washing the car
    C36
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    86 190E 2.3-16 Cosworth- Eaton SC, Mosselman piggyback, BBS Mahles, Euros, H&Rs, Koni adjustables, sportline wheel, 300te front sway, 300te end links

  7. #7
    Originally posted by strictlyspeakin
    I'm not an audiophile guy...
    But the bose amp should be sophisticated enough to do discrete channels. Now how many channels is the question.

    I forget what the ohm rating was on the stock speakers but it led me to think that more than one speaker was being driven from a single channel. Speakers wired in parallel vs series...

    I remember the Bekker in my old 190 did something similar. The radio had only a left and right output going to a front/rear fader thumb wheel which split each channel into two. Thus left & right became 4 speaker instead of 2.

    A similar condition might also be the case with the Bose. All mids might be driven by 1 channel and highs by another. But again I have no practical knowledge of this Bose amp.
    I can see that, but what doesn't make sense to me is why the trunk speakers work fine?

    If there WAS a short and it was FROM the trunk speakers, why would the mid speakers take the hit and not the trunk speakers themselves?

    I'm also starting to wonder if it could be a cd deck wiring problem... Who ever wired it before did a good job, but it could be another possiblilty. I did take the deck out, because I was going to change it, but never did.. makes me wonder if a wire is loose.

  8. #8
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    Just a thought, did you rewire any of those speakers after you got the short or did you try disconnecting the amp and start over, make sure you have the right ohm configuration when you wired it, a 2 ohm system could blow your amp, 4 or 8 ohm is better but check what the manufacturer recomends. Your better of IMHO to run RCA cables to the deck and wire in a pac to your amp
    Just throwing out suggestions
    Jeff

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  9. #9
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    99 C43 AMG
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  10. #10
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    The front 4 1/4 HVC driver is 1.2 Ohm and the Tweeters in the dash is 8, the drivers are wired where the present a 6 ohm load to the amp but here is the tricky part the bose factory amp uses a active eq that strips the base info from the L and R channels and then plays it on the rear deck subs in a blended mono system.The crossover is a variable one that actively adjusts based on volume and material being played. I believe this crossover is roughly 16,000 Khz to about 500 Hz

    The rear door Twiddler drivers i'm unsure of the impedance but i suspect that they are 6 or 4 ohms. I believe this active crossover is roughly 750 Khz to about 200

    The deck subs are 2 ohms i believe and they are on a weird amp switching and phasing system like every other cycle they are mono and the alternate to stereo this is done i presume to improve amp efficiency but still provide left to right base definition.

    The rear subs have about a 130hz crossover nothing mid really comes through.

    The tweets use a nokia driver "hummm.....?? " I thought it was a bose system ?? " dash tweets" and they have a simple inline capacitor that strips the bass info.

    The system has been optimized to our w202 interior and presently there are no really satisfactory products that I have seen that dont require excessive butchering of your doors, or speaker mounts. Non bose speakers sound like crapola in the 2 L tuned Bose port chambers for the front.

    If the amp is working correctly the system sounds extremely well the bass is not ghetto and that suits my needs, maybe yours. One thing you have to watch out for is that if your amp has been popping screeching well you probably also have driver damage.

    I hear many people in her rave about there systems but i'm a stock kinda guy and thus far i have not heard that impresses me to the extent of replacing it. Most systems are pure base pore imaging and muddy midrange.

    My recommendation is that you send your amp to bose to have them refurbish it if it indeed has a problem which they will do for under 200.
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  11. #11
    Well the description seems about right, although I have 3 trunk speakers... I should have 4 I assume, because there is a slot missing.. but yeah..

    As for the mid speakers, they seem to be working.. just aren't as loud as the rest.

    I haven't touched any of them at all.

    I've basically done as I stated.

    Tapped off the trunk speaker straight to my sub amp. It's all been fine.

    Just that one day.. I had a spark go on me.. but everything seemed to work fine.

    I still don't get how that spark in the trunk speaker would cause the mid speakers to dull down? Wouldn't or shouldn't it also or just effect the trunk speakers, if that's where the short/spark occured?

  12. #12
    Senior Member anf6789's Avatar
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    the extra speaker in the trunk is for the phone, the preupdates have this, mine also has a blank spot on the right side, it has a foam baffle there.
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  13. #13
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    Originally posted by anf6789
    the extra speaker in the trunk is for the phone, the preupdates have this, mine also has a blank spot on the right side, it has a foam baffle there.
    Take out the foam and mount an eight inch sub there and power it from your amp
    Jeff

    What a dull world it would be if we were all clones......

  14. #14
    Originally posted by Benzalot
    Take out the foam and mount an eight inch sub there and power it from your amp
    Yeah.. that would be awesome! I might do that =P

    I have the same slot as well... always wondered why it was there...

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