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Thread: Im going to TURBO my W202!!

  1. #26
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    you really think i"ll need 6 months?! god damn I hope not! I want to drive it this year!
    Deja vu!...I think iv been stuck in this exact situation for almost 6 years^^

    So if you run one heat exchanger where the oe IC is will you put the other exchanger infront of the engine so that its a simple route for the charge piping?

    The frequency on the pully is different between the n/a and kompressor pullys...which i think is due to the diameters and different loadings on the pully...so the frequencies at which they work in are different,however i was wondering if there were different pullys on the n/a engine,maybe the 180/200/220 etc have slightly different frequencies...maybe.
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  2. #27
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    Originally posted by dokotela
    ah, finally caught up to you guys.

    this will be most beneficial to me for the coming months.
    i first have to decide whether to do m111 turbo on my 201, or m103 turbo, or m104 turbo.

    if i choose the m111 turbo setup for my 201, i wouldnt turbo my 202, but if i choose the m103 or m104 setup, then i will definitely turbo my m111 202 .

    so far, there seems to be a lot of "little" things that may have been easily overlooked when doing this.

    i was thinking on going with a gt28 turbo on the m111. will this be the best option. i dont want to stretch the limits on the m111 engine in terms of revability, so i thought that early boost would be best. should i go smaller?


    Hey!
    IMO If you are planning to install a new engine i would go with the M104 and go twin or single turbo as you dont need alot of pressure to make it perform.
    ITB's would be a unique achievement,however i think you would have more fun going turbo.

    Iv thought about running the V6 3.2(one with a manual gearbox from an SLK) ,however there much more expensive and i would imagine theres not alot of room to mount turbos under the heads!?!

    If you end up turboing your M111 and dont want any more than 350 - 400hp than the GT28 should be just fine,depending on how restricitive your exhaust is you may want to run the larger turbine housing.
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  3. #28
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    Originally posted by 23K
    Deja vu!...I think iv been stuck in this exact situation for almost 6 years^^

    So if you run one heat exchanger where the oe IC is will you put the other exchanger infront of the engine so that its a simple route for the charge piping?

    The frequency on the pully is different between the n/a and kompressor pullys...which i think is due to the diameters and different loadings on the pully...so the frequencies at which they work in are different,however i was wondering if there were different pullys on the n/a engine,maybe the 180/200/220 etc have slightly different frequencies...maybe.
    lol.. well true mang!.. you've been working on your car for forever! at least its a beast now.

    The heat exchanger will be in where the OE intercooler is.. and the other part the intercooler core will be somewhere in the engine bay, either up in front of the engine leading to the throttle body or depending on if I do a custom intake manifold I may integrate the cooler into that somehow. but right now its all ideas.
    hmm.. thats a good question.. I dont know if there would be different frequencies for the different engine sizes.. I guess in theory it would make sense.
    I'll see if I can locat eit on my n/a crank. may be working on my w202 tomorrow, getting more parts off my car and more n/a stuff in!
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  4. #29
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    Hmm,integrating the exchanger into the plenum sounds like a pretty trick way to go(saw that SC 104 with that on some forum)...possible draw backs would be space,you may want to do what i did and recreate the washer bottle...or take it a step further and relocate the steering reservoir!(wish i had!,though iv just mounted the idle control valve behind it today so its not so bad we ended up mounting the TB so high)

    ...Mounting infront of the engine and bring the charge round into a nice plenum also sounds pretty trick!...im interested about how you mount that drive by wire TB...its a bulky heap of s***^^..

    anyway,I guess your planning to reuse the oe plenub for now so mounting infront of the engine seems the logical choice...and tbh doing custom plenum/ic is going to take some serious time and effort!.

    Any more thoughts on the GT35?
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  5. #30
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    Originally posted by 23K
    Hmm,integrating the exchanger into the plenum sounds like a pretty trick way to go(saw that SC 104 with that on some forum)...possible draw backs would be space,you may want to do what i did and recreate the washer bottle...or take it a step further and relocate the steering reservoir!(wish i had!,though iv just mounted the idle control valve behind it today so its not so bad we ended up mounting the TB so high)

    ...Mounting infront of the engine and bring the charge round into a nice plenum also sounds pretty trick!...im interested about how you mount that drive by wire TB...its a bulky heap of s***^^..

    anyway,I guess your planning to reuse the oe plenub for now so mounting infront of the engine seems the logical choice...and tbh doing custom plenum/ic is going to take some serious time and effort!.

    Any more thoughts on the GT35?
    Ya for sure! I thought it would be pretty trick and different.. oh really? where is this SC M104? I want to see pics!!
    right now its all ideas. until I get around to actually doing it, then I'll know if it can actually work or not.
    at least the things you are doing are working out for you in the end! so you added an idle control valve?

    I will be mounting the drive by wire throttle body (on my custom intake manifold) how you've mounted yours basically. its all the rest Im not sure about!

    yes for now I will use the stock plenum, and have to run some sort of front mount intercooler (since Im removing all the stock stuff to sell as a kit for someone).

    I dont know man.. I still really want to run the GT35.. but it seems everyone I talk to says it will work, but I will have no bottom end at all.. and not much usable power as I dont have the RPM range for it.. so I may have to go with a GT30.. as long as I can put down 450hp I'll be happy. do you think its possible with a GT30?
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  6. #31
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    And pics you shall get :

















    I think the plenum should have been slightly deeper at the ends to allow better flow but weather or not that would help would need to be proven.

    Yip have "finally" added the idle control valve lol,these little jobs can take alot of time^^...got the valve second hand from an E30($10),its the same Bosch one from the 190e,then went and got a 190e rubber hanger from my parts guy,then got the engineer guys to spin a couple of mounts up,then made a bracket for it to mount on the steering pump bolts(go my new mini workshop^^),then traveled accross town to the only fastener place open on a Saturday arvo,which wasnt open just someone had come in for 30 mins lol,but i got my countersunk hex M6x45 and 35 and now she's mounted tight behind the steering pump...just need to pay through the nose for 2 tight radius samco hoses(if i cant find cheap 19mm radiator items),then cut and form some 19mm alloy pipe i got last week to mate to the charge pipe and plenum,then travel to the end of the universe(far side of city) to have it welded(damn i want to buy a AC/DC welder),then run some wires from ECU,then book it into the Dyno tuners to have it sit there for a week so they can do cold starts on it every morning and calibrate the idle control...oh and maybe do the close loop control also while its there.Also have just installed that oil thermostat,didnt like the blue Aeroquip hoses(rated 160 degree,black is rated 90) so added some expandable braided tube,looks better than light blue and provides some mechanical protection too.









    Are you planning to run an air/air IC first?,it might be quite alot cheaper in the long run to build the water/air and replumb it later to suit the intake plenum!?

    Hmm yeh the GT30 would be my pick,it does around 500hp and will be more responsive for the 2.3L,you could also opt to get the 3076R which flows alittle more than the 71 ,however from a quick look at the compressor maps the 76R even with its anti surge housing looks to have more chance of surge !!...based on that and a partial wild guess my pick would be the 480hp GT3071 with a T3 .64 maybe the .82 turbine and a nice 4" inlet compressor housing(atp)...i run T3 .82 on mine however my wheel is alot small than the GT30's so turbine speed was very high very low in the rpm band,which didnt help with surge.
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  7. #32
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    Wow.. thats a pretty cool set up. is he a NZ guy? is his project finished? that is pretty trick.. my intake manifold will actually house my intercooler core, unlike his that is just before the intake manifold. I would have to agree with you that the intake manifold could have been larger, but maybe he didn't have the space?

    Nice, the idle control valve looks great, just have to plumb it into the intake now?
    the oil cooler switch housing turned out great too.. great job on the brackets.. they look trick!

    I had thought to run an air to air for now (just to get the car running with the turbo set up), and then afterwards (probably during the winter) go ahead with fabing up the liquid to air! but now as you say.. give myself 6 months to get this turbo all worked out, so I might as well do it all at once!

    I agree with you, I think my best bet is to go with the GT3076R, seems to be more logical, easier to get the power I want, and to have a good power band as well!! and I still have the potential for upwards of 500hp.. so thats a benefit for sure!
    So you think the GT3071 would be a better choice? I'd rather do the GT3076! but thats something I'll have to discuss and figure out. do you think with either the GT3071 or 3076 I'd be okay with a 0.82a/r? for sure 4" inlet and 2.5" discharge, 3" V-band exhaust. hmmm.. I think I'm getting closer to deciding and ordering a turbo!
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  8. #33
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    Na he's not from nz,I just came accross the thread on Peachparts.com!

    Probly best to make the IC system once,though simple in design it can be a tricky thing to make if you want it to flow nice!.
    Just a thought on mounting the IC at the plenum...I guess you would want the water to enter in a way that was evenly distibuted along the core,so that air temps didnt vary between cylinders...im not sure if this would happen if you didnt do that but its somthing to consider should you build it that way.

    Its difficult to say just how well the GT30 will perfrom until you have everything fabricated,bolted in and tuned,you may find it's quite laggy but after some correction on the fuel maps you may find it spools very quickly...because theres so many factors its really hard to say which of the two will be better suited,however at the end of the day the 76 flows more than the 71 so if your after more Hp then the 76 would be the way to go. its hard to say which turbine housing you will need,if you go with the .63 it might spool nice but is more likely to give surge than the .82,if you go .82 you will loose spool time and gain some top end.
    which ever way you go there will be a chance you will want to try a different turbine housing at some stage!.
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  9. #34
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    Originally posted by 23K
    Na he's not from nz,I just came accross the thread on Peachparts.com!

    Probly best to make the IC system once,though simple in design it can be a tricky thing to make if you want it to flow nice!.
    Just a thought on mounting the IC at the plenum...I guess you would want the water to enter in a way that was evenly distibuted along the core,so that air temps didnt vary between cylinders...im not sure if this would happen if you didnt do that but its somthing to consider should you build it that way.

    Its difficult to say just how well the GT30 will perfrom until you have everything fabricated,bolted in and tuned,you may find it's quite laggy but after some correction on the fuel maps you may find it spools very quickly...because theres so many factors its really hard to say which of the two will be better suited,however at the end of the day the 76 flows more than the 71 so if your after more Hp then the 76 would be the way to go. its hard to say which turbine housing you will need,if you go with the .63 it might spool nice but is more likely to give surge than the .82,if you go .82 you will loose spool time and gain some top end.
    which ever way you go there will be a chance you will want to try a different turbine housing at some stage!.
    I've got some pics of my own!! Sorry for the REALLY bad quality.. was using my iphone camera (no flash). I should have brought my camera.. wasnt thinking!
    Everything is removed here:

    New n/a Alt bracket installed:



    whats peachparts?! any more pics of that car on there? link??!
    yeh I hear ya.. makes more sense for it to be made once, less cost. I'll have to start fabing up something soon, Im sure I will need to tweak it a bit once installed! I think for now I'll just go with a different design (until I get having around to the intake manifold built), I'll run something similar to this to cool the boost entering the engine.
    run it somewhere near the throttle body.. or as close as possible.

    Well I guess with either route I will be into lots of tuning and tinkering to get it to run just right. I think I will go with the GT3076.. It will suit my needs better, and I can always swap out turbine housings if needed.. the 0.82 a/r will benefit me better with the higher top end.. Im still confident I will have good bottom end even with the 0.82.. its a ball bearing turbo.. it should spool quick!

    come on guys.. buy my parts!! I need to get the Turbo fund up and running!

    OEM supercharger kit [with all parts required to bolt onto a C230 (97-98)] $2000 OBO

    Kleemann Kit: for 1999-2000 C230 Kompressor.
    with: Kleemann Crank, new supercharger belt, new colder spark plugs, larger idler pulley, alternator pulley, MAS relocation kit.
    $1500 OBO

    PM me or email me.
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  10. #35
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    All good looks like you def need better lighting,but better than no pics^^....I see a shiney new alternator bracket and something you haven't removed!!..... the SC clutch and bypass plugs =P(you'll get around to when you redo your harness at some stage haha!.
    Another thing you may have to move is that a/c coolant pump and its piping so you have more room around the turbo:


    The site is mercedesshop.com,heres the link to the forum http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...d.php?t=234593
    Most of the guys in the performance section know there stuff!.(my user on there is Pagz)



    This is exactly what i had in mind,looks like it would mount nicely in front of the engine too(if theres enough space with the electric fan)!. I would think it to be much cheaper to buy this kit than get it fabricated yourself!...might want a more compact wider exchanger for the bumper though...how much does this kit cost?.

    Yes buy the parts!=P
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  11. #36
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    Originally posted by 23K
    All good looks like you def need better lighting,but better than no pics^^....I see a shiney new alternator bracket and something you haven't removed!!..... the SC clutch and bypass plugs =P(you'll get around to when you redo your harness at some stage haha!.
    Another thing you may have to move is that a/c coolant pump and its piping so you have more room around the turbo:


    The site is mercedesshop.com,heres the link to the forum http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...d.php?t=234593
    Most of the guys in the performance section know there stuff!.(my user on there is Pagz)



    This is exactly what i had in mind,looks like it would mount nicely in front of the engine too(if theres enough space with the electric fan)!. I would think it to be much cheaper to buy this kit than get it fabricated yourself!...might want a more compact wider exchanger for the bumper though...how much does this kit cost?.

    Yes buy the parts!=P
    I know.. lighting is horrible.. after about 10 mins the light in the unit shuts off by itself.. so I have to work by flashlight the rest of the time!
    true true.. pics is better then no pics!!
    The shiny new alternator bracket is indeed resting in the engine bay! I just put an OEM n/a alternator pulley on my alternator today.. took it in to work.
    At some point I'll have to remove those wires from the harness!! everything is a SLOW process for a bit until I can get my own work space!
    thats a good idea.. I may have to relocate the coolant pump.. give me a bit more wiggle room around the turbo.
    I'll have to check it out.. peachparts huh!
    That kit as it sits is almost $1000!! I can fab one up for a bit less.. a couple of the parts I can get for free from a buddy (he has a W211 E55 Kompressor pushing 700hp, and he has some old parts he doesn't use.. heat exchanger!!) I also already have an OEM charge air pump from the AMG M113K and v12 twin turbo's. get me started at least.. so the only things I really need are the liquid cooler and a reservoir of some sort... then the custom fab lines. Id really like to run 2 heat exchangers though.. one in front of the bumper, and one like the one in the pic in the wheel well area with an electric fan.
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  12. #37
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    At least if you custom make it,it will fit snug!.

    Just tripped over this old coolant tank by my desk at work,just a thought....if you end up having to make one and making one over there is way expensive you can have this one free+ shipping,needs a new bottom plate welded on it,however its better made in terms of design than the one i have now as it has baffles inside just like the oe one,doesnt come with a pressure cap though but still has the pressure cap mount.


    Any updates?
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  13. #38
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    Just a thought,Im having minor problems with oil getting into the system some where,either rings or valves or turbine seals or oil/air seperator system....iv tested it all and cant find any real evidence of failure...

    however...my oil return is -10 and enters the sump under the oil level,so there will be some pressure build up there along with some burn of from super heating of the oil as it passes through the bearing housing(Iv noticed when you removed the oil cap after the engine stops there is a small amount of white smoke/white mist present inside the engine,very similar to what oil burn-off looks/smells like),this could be causing problems in the oil/air seperator system or could be getting out via the turbine seals etc etc,its pretty hard to see what goes on inside the oil drain without fitting clear hose etc ...but i did alittle research and found this:

    The oil drain from a turbo operates via gravity. That is, the pressure drop across the turbo bearing is nearly complete and it is only gravity that causes the oil to flow back to the sump. In fact, it cannot really be termed ‘oil’ as after it has passed through the turbo, the oil becomes an aerated foam – one reference suggests it looks like ‘dirty whipped cream’. It’s therefore important that:

    -The drain line is much larger in diameter than the pressure feed line
    -The connection to the sump is made above the oil level
    -The drain pipe is kept as close to vertical as possible

    If the sump drain joins at a level below the oil, the much lower density of the aerated oil will cause it to sit on top of the sump oil, gradually backing-up to the turbo.
    http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/A_2606/article.html

    So im looking at ways to plumb it in above the sump oil level while still retaining a decent fall on the pipe,which due to oil level might need to be in through the side of the block(not really an option for me)....if so then an alternate,less affective measure would be to tee in a vent from the turbo drain pipe up to the upper front cover of the engine...so that oil still drains in the same location i have now and if there is a build up it will still vent.

    Anyway just a thought, as it may be best to sort this stuff before you have it all bolted in and ready to go
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  14. #39
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    Originally posted by 23K
    At least if you custom make it,it will fit snug!.

    Just tripped over this old coolant tank by my desk at work,just a thought....if you end up having to make one and making one over there is way expensive you can have this one free+ shipping,needs a new bottom plate welded on it,however its better made in terms of design than the one i have now as it has baffles inside just like the oe one,doesnt come with a pressure cap though but still has the pressure cap mount.


    Any updates?
    Yes for sure! snug fit is good.
    hmmmm.. I will have to consider this. I doubt my stock reservoir will hold up to any heat being close to the turbo! we will have to talk! Thanks for the offer bro.
    no real updates yet. I havent been able to work on my car the past little bit. my brother has been in the hospital for the past week.
    I'll hopefully have a chance to do some work on the weekend maybe. do a few more things (get my alternator back in, remove the rest of the OEM parts for the supercharger, drain coolant, move rad forward more, put in new longer rad hoses, remove aux fans for a/c and install my electric suction fan)
    oh.. OH OH OH.. I did order my turbo! so there is no turning back for sure now!
    went with the GT3076, 0.82a/r, 3" v-band exhaust housing, 4" inlet with 2" outlet, and the anti-surge cover. should give me the power I'm after.
    Ill have to post up some pics on the weekend maybe of some more progress.. (of my empty engine bay!!)

    Some food for thought there Paul.. I'll have to consider this when plumbing up my turbo. Thanks for the info. I'll have to give it a read.
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  15. #40
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    Did a bit of work on my W202.. finally got the alternator back in.. so the N/A Belt Conversion is completed..





    I also finished removing all the SC parts.. got the intercooler out and the rest of the IC pipe, took the front bumper off to get the IC out! also tried to relocate my rad further forward.. but I think I need a different rad. the drain screw seems to hit the bottom rad support in its most forward position. I will check tomorrow to see if the Kompressor and non Kompressor have different rads. oh and also removed the front electric fans for the a/c. that is a heavy piece Paul!




    Got about a 3 week wait until I see my Turbo.. its on back order from the shop I ordered it from. I'll post up pics of it when I get it!
    Thats all the updates for now.
    oh and I used a REAL camera for pics this time!!
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    Lots Coming—3 piece 18" AMG Aero II—Custom Bags—Wide Fenders—W210 E55 Engine Swap with 4matic—

    *1999 C230K Turbo* Track Car
    --18" SL55 AMG's--KW V2 Suspension--SLK55 Front and Rear Brake--Wiechers Braces--Custom GT28 Turbo--Custom 3" Exhaust--68mm Throttle body--450cc Injectors--Custom Intake Manifold--Custom liquid to air intercooler--C36 Rear--Brabus Front--

  16. #41
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    Ended up ordering a 1998 C230 Rad today.. the kompressor and non kompressor are different, I really need the clearance of the rad pushed further forward (as the drain for the rad hits the lower rad support) wasn't too expensive either so I just ordered it.

    my other dilema here is the liquid intercooler! I've been searching around.. I have found 2 different ones.. ones almost $500 and the other one is $180.. bit of a price difference!
    2 companies are Frozenboost.com ($180 one) and PWR ($500 one)
    FROZENBOOST:

    PWR:


    The PWR one is much nicer look IMO.. but the price difference is HUGE! The frozenboost one does seem very decent. I cant justify buying the PWR one and spending 3 times as much for it.. I can buy so many other parts to make my liquid intercooler.
    *2002 E320 4Matic Wagon* Daily
    --Not lowered—18" Alphards—Stock exhaust.
    Lots Coming—3 piece 18" AMG Aero II—Custom Bags—Wide Fenders—W210 E55 Engine Swap with 4matic—

    *1999 C230K Turbo* Track Car
    --18" SL55 AMG's--KW V2 Suspension--SLK55 Front and Rear Brake--Wiechers Braces--Custom GT28 Turbo--Custom 3" Exhaust--68mm Throttle body--450cc Injectors--Custom Intake Manifold--Custom liquid to air intercooler--C36 Rear--Brabus Front--

  17. #42
    Moderator Pagz's Avatar
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    Doesnt sound good,hows your brother doing?

    Good to hear the turbo is on its way!!...thats where it all really begins...that is,when you drop it in and find holy sh!t this is going to be a mission^^.
    Glad you went with the slightly smaller GT30 with the right parts and tune im confident it will produce the power you want.

    Finally some decent camera pics^^
    The n/a setup looks good!,your taking it to a whole new level doing the entire n/a cooling system too^^....is there a reason the kompressor radiator is bigger?(ie better cooling for the high hp output?)....in saying that if you remove the a/c fans theres better air flow anyway so it would possibly make no difference or could even be better than the larger radiator.

    Yeh those a/c fans + mounting shroud = heavy!.

    That PWR cooler looks far better in terms of how the end tank flow looks,however im not a fan of the weld on -10 fittings as they will be soft from weld over heating the alloy and tend to leak easily,where as the shaman will require a -10 to -10 threaded fitting which will do the job much better.
    how much room do you think you will have when the electric fan is in?...i guess that will dictate which one you use or if you need to make a custom one.
    The shaman looks easier to mount too!.


    Whats this just arrived on my desk from US...^^
    >>00 C43 Black w/birch Black. Immaculate
    >>99 C43 Silver w/CLK55 package
    >>99 S202 RED 250TD Daily.
    >>89 2.6 RED w/16vkit. POS
    >>Old Turbo 2.3 History >>Old Turbo 2.3 Video

  18. #43
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    Originally posted by 23K
    Doesnt sound good,hows your brother doing?

    Good to hear the turbo is on its way!!...thats where it all really begins...that is,when you drop it in and find holy sh!t this is going to be a mission^^.
    Glad you went with the slightly smaller GT30 with the right parts and tune im confident it will produce the power you want.

    Finally some decent camera pics^^
    The n/a setup looks good!,your taking it to a whole new level doing the entire n/a cooling system too^^....is there a reason the kompressor radiator is bigger?(ie better cooling for the high hp output?)....in saying that if you remove the a/c fans theres better air flow anyway so it would possibly make no difference or could even be better than the larger radiator.

    Yeh those a/c fans + mounting shroud = heavy!.

    That PWR cooler looks far better in terms of how the end tank flow looks,however im not a fan of the weld on -10 fittings as they will be soft from weld over heating the alloy and tend to leak easily,where as the shaman will require a -10 to -10 threaded fitting which will do the job much better.
    how much room do you think you will have when the electric fan is in?...i guess that will dictate which one you use or if you need to make a custom one.
    The shaman looks easier to mount too!.


    Whats this just arrived on my desk from US...^^
    He is doing better, but still not anywhere close to leaving the hospital yet.. he's almost been there for 2 weeks now. blood clot still in his lung, and he has pneumonia as well. hopefully get some more answers this week.

    I'm hoping its about 3 weeks till I see it! yeah I can imagine! as soon as I sit it in the engine bay Im going to say what did I get myself into?! I dont even know when I'm going to be able to get my car to somewhere so I can start fabricating the turbo manifold and exhaust. I gotta work something out with my buddy. I agree.. the GT30 will work a heap better with my application. I know it will produce the power I'm after as well!!

    lol.. I know.. about time huh! I borrowed my mums digicam!
    took forever to finally put in.. but the n/a set up is good.. all the stock SC parts are gone.. everything!
    well I don't know if the Kompressor rad is larger or not.. but there is a HUGE price difference in them! the non kompressor is $180 my cost.. the kompressor one is about 3 times as much! I hope there is no difference in size.. to be honest Im sure they look identical in size.. I mean the suction fan I'll be using will sit in front of my current rad if I wanted to. so I dont know if its larger or not. I'll be able to tell you when I get the n/a rad (coming from Vancouver).
    those a/c fans don't even work anyways! fans are shot.. but I kept all the other stuff form them. mounting brackets and such. just in case! I don't understand why they need something so bulky up front for the a/c fan.. the suction fan on the non kompressor works just as well.. hopefully no cooling issues!!

    Thats is true as well.. better transition from the PWR barrel intercooler core.. I can always have ends made for the frozenboost unit.. the price point is so much cheaper for the frozenboost ones as well. gives me more money to use elsewhere! oh really.. you think the PWR -10 fittings on the intercooler barrel could be weak? hmm.. never thought about that.
    room wise I'm not too sure.. but I am confident that the frozenboost one will fit in there with no issues.
    the frozenboost site has soooo much of the parts I'll need.. they even have all the -10 fitting.. hoses. I'll probably be ordering a bunch of the parts from these guys.

    oh my!.. you got 3 pipe benders?! did they come as a set? hopefully they weren't too much man! look good though. guess I know what you'll be up to.. bending your pipe!
    oh and we'll have to talk about the coolant tank you have!
    *2002 E320 4Matic Wagon* Daily
    --Not lowered—18" Alphards—Stock exhaust.
    Lots Coming—3 piece 18" AMG Aero II—Custom Bags—Wide Fenders—W210 E55 Engine Swap with 4matic—

    *1999 C230K Turbo* Track Car
    --18" SL55 AMG's--KW V2 Suspension--SLK55 Front and Rear Brake--Wiechers Braces--Custom GT28 Turbo--Custom 3" Exhaust--68mm Throttle body--450cc Injectors--Custom Intake Manifold--Custom liquid to air intercooler--C36 Rear--Brabus Front--

  19. #44
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    DAMN!!,that doesnt sound very good,all the best man hopfully he gets better soon!!.

    Will be really interesting too see how the n/a radiator/electric fan turns out...that price difference leads me to think there maybe quite a difference...guess we will find out soon enough =)

    The PWR AN weld on fittings are they same as what iv used all over my engine bay,most of my weld on AN fittings have leaked as the welding process softens them,which also makes the threads soft and suseptable to galling/binding when they do leak you can buy a very soft alloy gasket to go inbetween(there a pain to fit).iv found its a good idea to use a small amount of antisieze on all AN alloy threads.
    If you go with the FB cooler you will need to buy AN fittings to thread into it so you can attach hose ends,but because they dont require welding the male AN will last much longer,seal better and is usually anodized too. Im considering removing the male weld ons from my plenum and replacing with female AN thread so i can do this too,it would reduce the chance of vaccum leaks,last time i had one on the brake booster...made for some pretty sh!t braking^^

    Hose and fittings are best bought as local as possible...as they can be expensive and you somtimes need to return what you dont use!.

    Haha .. i finally found a company in US who would ship it here,all up they cost $328usd(440nzd) including shipping and all charges.
    initially i was oinly going to get one,but thought it may be more economical in the long run just to get the 3 main sizes. they wanted over $300nzd just for the 3/8" locally here...lmao
    Got tomorrow off work and then its easter weekend....thats means loads of bending^^

    Yip np about the coolant tank,can always send you pics if you need it.

    laters!
    >>00 C43 Black w/birch Black. Immaculate
    >>99 C43 Silver w/CLK55 package
    >>99 S202 RED 250TD Daily.
    >>89 2.6 RED w/16vkit. POS
    >>Old Turbo 2.3 History >>Old Turbo 2.3 Video

  20. #45
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    Originally posted by 23K
    DAMN!!,that doesnt sound very good,all the best man hopfully he gets better soon!!.

    Will be really interesting too see how the n/a radiator/electric fan turns out...that price difference leads me to think there maybe quite a difference...guess we will find out soon enough =)

    The PWR AN weld on fittings are they same as what iv used all over my engine bay,most of my weld on AN fittings have leaked as the welding process softens them,which also makes the threads soft and suseptable to galling/binding when they do leak you can buy a very soft alloy gasket to go inbetween(there a pain to fit).iv found its a good idea to use a small amount of antisieze on all AN alloy threads.
    If you go with the FB cooler you will need to buy AN fittings to thread into it so you can attach hose ends,but because they dont require welding the male AN will last much longer,seal better and is usually anodized too. Im considering removing the male weld ons from my plenum and replacing with female AN thread so i can do this too,it would reduce the chance of vaccum leaks,last time i had one on the brake booster...made for some pretty sh!t braking^^

    Hose and fittings are best bought as local as possible...as they can be expensive and you somtimes need to return what you dont use!.

    Haha .. i finally found a company in US who would ship it here,all up they cost $328usd(440nzd) including shipping and all charges.
    initially i was oinly going to get one,but thought it may be more economical in the long run just to get the 3 main sizes. they wanted over $300nzd just for the 3/8" locally here...lmao
    Got tomorrow off work and then its easter weekend....thats means loads of bending^^

    Yip np about the coolant tank,can always send you pics if you need it.

    laters!
    No not that good at all.. but he is getting better slowly.. so take it one day at a time. hopefully he will be released from the hospital before the weekend.

    I hope it turns out to be a VERY easy install on the rad and fan and everything works perfectly! lol.. not bloody likely huh?! one can dream! the rads have to be the same dimensions.. so I don't know what's different about them. I sure I'll find out when I got to install it I'll need different lines and things! I already have the coolant hoses. but yeh exactly.. the price difference is HUGE! so there has to be a difference.

    well that is a pain in the ass mang.. but its good they make seals to put in between with those types of fittings. sounds like all modding is a pain in the ass.. have to swap out the fittings now.. I don't know where it ever ends.. no matter what custom thing we do, there is always some soft of mess it causes so that it has to be redone!
    I'm pretty damn sure I'll be going with the FB intercooler core, just makes sense. but I'm waiting to see if they make custom heat exchangers at all.. the ones they have on the site wont work for me.. too large. if they don't then the next place I'll go to is EVOsport, they have a kit they sell for the W211 E55, an additional heat exchanger kit.. the heat exchanger form that kit is perfect size.. talked to the guy a while back about it, says he can sell the HE separately.. its $450 though! save on one thing.. spend more on another!
    brakes are pretty damn important.. thats not a good thing to have issues with!! swap out them fittings asap!
    I hear ya.. the prices seem pretty decent on the hoses for my intercooler.. braided stainless lines too. they sell the lines by the foot.. I'll first mock up everything with something cheap first, garden hose or something!.. then buy the lengths I need.

    Thats a pretty decent price considering you got 3 different benders and a pipe cutter! shipping and everything huh.. not bad at all.. good find. who you get it from?
    spending easter bending pipe?! wont the wife be pissed you're not spending it with her?!
    I've got 2 more days of work, then off friday for easter!
    send me a couple pics of the tank Paul. I'm pretty positive I want it!
    *2002 E320 4Matic Wagon* Daily
    --Not lowered—18" Alphards—Stock exhaust.
    Lots Coming—3 piece 18" AMG Aero II—Custom Bags—Wide Fenders—W210 E55 Engine Swap with 4matic—

    *1999 C230K Turbo* Track Car
    --18" SL55 AMG's--KW V2 Suspension--SLK55 Front and Rear Brake--Wiechers Braces--Custom GT28 Turbo--Custom 3" Exhaust--68mm Throttle body--450cc Injectors--Custom Intake Manifold--Custom liquid to air intercooler--C36 Rear--Brabus Front--

  21. #46
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    I did a bit of work today, got the 1998 c230 rad in place.. but nothing is ever direct fit! I need to get the short cooler hard lines that go from the rad to the flex lines for the trans, then I need the aux water pump hose that goes from the reservoir to the rad!
    but the rad does fit well... (after removing some more covers and things!) and the aux electric cooling fan I have fits in there perfectly.
    gotta order some more parts.. including the water to air intercooler.. get that mocked up in there as well.. seems to be enough room to fit it where I'd like to.

    here are some pics..
    1999 rad on left, 1998 rad on right for comparison:


    close up of 1999 rad:


    close up of 1998 rad:


    1998 Rad in car:



    side note.. is this feed here on the block near the front just above the alternator the oil feed I will want to tap into for my turbo??
    *2002 E320 4Matic Wagon* Daily
    --Not lowered—18" Alphards—Stock exhaust.
    Lots Coming—3 piece 18" AMG Aero II—Custom Bags—Wide Fenders—W210 E55 Engine Swap with 4matic—

    *1999 C230K Turbo* Track Car
    --18" SL55 AMG's--KW V2 Suspension--SLK55 Front and Rear Brake--Wiechers Braces--Custom GT28 Turbo--Custom 3" Exhaust--68mm Throttle body--450cc Injectors--Custom Intake Manifold--Custom liquid to air intercooler--C36 Rear--Brabus Front--

  22. #47
    Senior Member Logic's Avatar
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    i know this is going to sound stupid...but why didnt you get a 99 like what was in there?
    99 C230 KOMPRESSOR SPORT (SOLD)
    98 C43 AMG (SOLD)

  23. #48
    Senior Member Logic's Avatar
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    ok i read why you did that for clearence right ?
    99 C230 KOMPRESSOR SPORT (SOLD)
    98 C43 AMG (SOLD)

  24. #49
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    Originally posted by Logic
    ok i read why you did that for clearence right ?
    yeh I was having clearance issues when I was trying to move my stock 1999 rad forward to give room for the aux electric fan. I could have left it as it was and just used my stock a/c fans, but I had already purchased the large single aux fan about a year ago, so I'm putting it in!
    *2002 E320 4Matic Wagon* Daily
    --Not lowered—18" Alphards—Stock exhaust.
    Lots Coming—3 piece 18" AMG Aero II—Custom Bags—Wide Fenders—W210 E55 Engine Swap with 4matic—

    *1999 C230K Turbo* Track Car
    --18" SL55 AMG's--KW V2 Suspension--SLK55 Front and Rear Brake--Wiechers Braces--Custom GT28 Turbo--Custom 3" Exhaust--68mm Throttle body--450cc Injectors--Custom Intake Manifold--Custom liquid to air intercooler--C36 Rear--Brabus Front--

  25. #50
    Moderator Pagz's Avatar
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    Hey,
    Radiator looks good!,interstesting seeing where the radiator outlet is compared to the oe one,wonder why the put it so low?,its possibly more efficient that way.

    Is that the trans cooler built in on the right side there?,was it seperate on your oe item?

    lol yeh^^.every thing you touch requires twice the amount of parts and effort you initially planned for ^^,good to hear the fan fits well!...also before you get lines for the aux water pump are you going to move it away from turbo?

    If your planning to use stainless braided hoses for all i need to convince you not too^^.....lol, the fittings are a frickin pain to install,they are expensive,the braided hose will cut and chaff its way through anything it touches,and overall,there just not needed in most cases...for your IC coolant lines i would use pushlock or just hose and clamp with a rating of 120 degree's C or more,use SS braided or solid line(SS or steel) for oil supply to the turbo,the return line is debatable as it depends on how far you take it away from the turbo in metal before you change to rubber.

    Just a thought on your heat exchanger,if you cant find one thats cheap enough you could always use an oil cooler(however you would need to check internal fin design as it might not be as efficient as one built specifically to cool water)

    haha well,she wasnt too mad about it,we did go away for most of the weekend so i didnt get too much bending done,however what i did get done was a frickn mission....trying to make that rigid stuff fit perfect at each end is definitly not a 5 mins job^^.
    Just need to make the stays and the pipe on the other side of the jacket:





    Edit: You would also want to use braided or solid for the turbo water jacket,i think braid is rated for 230C?...
    >>00 C43 Black w/birch Black. Immaculate
    >>99 C43 Silver w/CLK55 package
    >>99 S202 RED 250TD Daily.
    >>89 2.6 RED w/16vkit. POS
    >>Old Turbo 2.3 History >>Old Turbo 2.3 Video

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