Reply With Quotenice to hear this... i guess imma do this too..Originally Posted by SD202
This isn't a crossfire/slk. Same concept rear 5 link but not the same. The newer 5 link uses aluminum arms and different geometry which aren't interchangeable with the older system. No clearance issues here. Even if they did hit, the link is made of aluminum which well bend before ripping anything out.
1986 201.034 5-speed, Evo II wheels
1986 201.024-w/ 3.2 M104 engine, 5-speed Conversion
nice to hear this... i guess imma do this too..
Where do you guys get the 7/16" fender washers from? I've been trying to find fender washers of this size but no where seems to carry this particular size of fender washers. I found 1/2" fender washers easily but just not 7/16". Any suggestions?
ERMMM.... thats a tough one. I know theres a place near my house called "marshals industrial hardware" they have all types of specialty bolts, nuts, tools, etc. Found the right size washers laying around the garage surprisingly. I dont know where you are located but look for a industrial/specialty hardware store.
so I installed them but i forgot to get washers. also forgot to put some grease too but I'll be getting some grease today to apply.. are the washers necessary?
1997 C280 Sport
Yes they are. Use them
1986 201.034 5-speed, Evo II wheels
1986 201.024-w/ 3.2 M104 engine, 5-speed Conversion
make the washers if you can not source them
c36 ///AMG ,,, c240 v6 sport
without washers. or grease. It will squeak soo badly.
buying my camberkit now.
Greased it up with white lithium grease, no more squeak.
1997 C280 Sport
Use promo code : 1409w
Save yourself $10
1996 C36
-blacked out grill
-cold air intake
-flat hood emblem
-full custom bent exhaust
-stereo things.
Guess I'll be the first to report a issue with my setup... One of the arms are making a clicking/creaking type noise whenever the camber is moved e.g. driveways, uneven roads..
1997 C280 Sport
Do you guys know which 4-bar end is the one for the one on the inner side of the arm? I'm going to replace the 4-bar and tie rod sleeve because mine is seized and creating noises... the outter end, near the wheel, 4-bar comes out fine.
1997 C280 Sport
Did you lube all bushings upon installation into the rod ends.
and add washers? mine squeaks a tiny bit but nothing extremely noticeable unless you sit there and notice it.
Yep the bushings were all lubed. I had used Energy Suspension bushing grease which I had use for my sway bar on my other car which works great.
Washers are included.
On this arm, one end of the 4-bar end was pretty hard to screw in, went in the tierod smooth but later it got extremely hard to tighten in. Nothing is stripped, but the noise is definitely coming from that side (inner 4-bar side). I will need to replace the tie rod and the 4-bar. I just need to figure out what the 4-bar thread is, LH or RH. I do not have the car with me so I need to order it and have it sent home so I can return and work on it.
1997 C280 Sport
Okay, so i guess I need to take apart everything and start from the beginning again. noise is increasingly rapid to the point where people will look at me when i come to a stop.
1997 C280 Sport
If you cannot get the Energy Suspension grease, you can substitute Green Grease, or stop in an outboard motor dealer of your choice, and tell them you want some waterproof grease.
202.029
That is the only grease i use for any suspension related parts. I have a tub of it, it was greased with Lithium grease previously. I will apply the Energy Suspension grease this time.
1997 C280 Sport
this is sick
Anyone looking to do this, hit me up. I have all the parts brand new sitting in my garage.
I also got a pair that I don't need for sale in the classified section
Just took everything apart, and greased everything up with Energy Suspension grease. No more sounds! Finallyy
1997 C280 Sport
This is not true. When you change the length of any of the factory links/arms (in this case, the camber arm)... the toe adjustment WILL be affected. The car should have an alignment at the MB dealership after installing the camber arms. You'll need to tell them what you want the rear camber set to (probably -0.5° to -1.0° would be fine). In extreme cases (massive lowering + camber correction) there may not be enough toe adjustment, in which case you can use the factory toe eccentric bushing, but that's $$$. Both my 500E's needed additional toe adjustment (more than the factory toe links would allow) after installing RDM TEK camber correction kits. Adding the eccentric bushing cured it. Dealer alignment sheet is at this link.
Bottom line: If you don't get an alignment after installing non-factory camber arms, you're risking unstable handling at high speeds, and/or increased tire wear. If the rear toe is way out, it can still shred your rear tires even without a lot of negative camber. Don't ask how I know this.
Yeah, that's why I removed the K-Mac kits from two of my cars. The sqeaking was ridiculous. I also don't want to have to take things apart and grease them as part of regular maintenance. Heim joint type links can cause nasty wheel hop on cars with a lot of power, so that didn't work either. The RDM TEK camber correction kit has none of these problems. The RDM TEK LCA's are no longer produced, but are still available in group buys of 10 pairs at a time, $300-$350/pair delivered in the USA (a bit more than the DIY stuff shown here). Zero noise.
What a lot of people don't understand is that the factory suspension links have bonded rubber bushings. "So what", you say? Well those OE bushings are part of the suspension design. Click the link below. This video was taken with the coil spring removed and shock disconnected. Note that the hub springs back to the center position (normal ride height location). If you install a bunch of Heim joints, this rebound action is reduced, or worse yet eliminated. The result is poor handling when pushed hard, and/or wheel hop under high power (i.e., 400E/500E, 300+hp). The K-Mac wasn't too bad since it only affected one pivot point (if you didn't use the tie rod bushing), but even then the noise would drive you crazy on a street car. The DIY links appear to have rubber end bushings, but I doubt they're bonded. YMMV, etc.
Factory suspension rebound video (10MB MPG file) :
http://www.w124performance.com/movie...on_rebound.mpg
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