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Thread: DIY Adjustable rear camber arms

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    This is not true. When you change the length of any of the factory links/arms (in this case, the camber arm)... the toe adjustment WILL be affected. The car should have an alignment at the MB dealership after installing the camber arms. You'll need to tell them what you want the rear camber set to (probably -0.5° to -1.0° would be fine). In extreme cases (massive lowering + camber correction) there may not be enough toe adjustment, in which case you can use the factory toe eccentric bushing, but that's $$$. Both my 500E's needed additional toe adjustment (more than the factory toe links would allow) after installing RDM TEK camber correction kits. Adding the eccentric bushing cured it. Dealer alignment sheet is at this link.

    Bottom line: If you don't get an alignment after installing non-factory camber arms, you're risking unstable handling at high speeds, and/or increased tire wear. If the rear toe is way out, it can still shred your rear tires even without a lot of negative camber. Don't ask how I know this.


    I bought the MB Arts camber arms for my C43.
    After I had them installed and realigned my car by my mechanic who was trained by MB, actually he was their best mechanic and ...............

    When I drive my car at high speeds, it feels like my rearend is moving a bit sideways, I would say it feels a bit unstable!
    I only had the camber arms fitted nothing else on rear axle.
    I asked seller/owner of MB Arts camber arms, he says I also should get his adjustable Toe in arms to cure the instability???
    Another cheap $310 dollars waysted if I have to buy them too!

    Dude told me my new camber arms don't cope with my old factory rubber bushings, mixing new and old stuff is a bad combo according to him.
    I haven't noticed any strange tirewear yet.

    What's the best thing to do?
    Removing camber arms or installing adjustable toe in arms?

    I don't feel any instability @ normal speed only at 3 digit speed from 95 - 100 m/hr and onwards I notice the problems.
    I also have 4 new tires Continental sportcontacts

    Thanx

  2. #102
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    will this also work on a w124? my camber is totally out of sync and I'm tired of always buying tires!

  3. #103
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    I have a 2002 CLK 320, would those part # work for my car?

  4. #104
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    Ok so since hea not making these anymore. Anyone know where i can get some at a decent price? Or piece together my own?
    "anyone can drive a new car, it takes a true enthusiast to breath life into an older one"

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by chimchongdlight View Post
    Ok so since hea not making these anymore. Anyone know where i can get some at a decent price? Or piece together my own?
    First page of this thread. It tells you exactly what you need to buy from Speedway Motors to make your own for under $100.

  6. #106
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    Has anyone tried 8" one? I have the 9" sleeve and have it at the shortest length on both sides and the driver side is more positive camber than the passenger side. I would like to have the driver side a little more negative, only way I think is to shorten the sleeve.. 8" is way short in terms of camber..
    1997 C280 Sport

  7. #107
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    Longevity?

    Anyone want to chime in on how their car has been after installing these? Any failures? Anybody tracked or autoxd with these installed?

    Thanks

  8. #108
    Junior Member Greeno's Avatar
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    I installed these on my 99 c230k a few months ago. They started to squeak really bad. I tookhem off and put some sillicone paste on the bushings and reinstalled. No squeaks since and no signs of wear.

  9. #109
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    Can some one post feed back on how this are holding up, my rear left camber is at -2.6 right now and rear right at -2.5.

  10. #110
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    My car is running about a year strong after installing DIY camber arms. When I asked the shop I went to for an alignment, they said they were able to get the rear within spec, taking into account that the car was lowered. I ran them through an Illinois winter and they're holding up the same as when I installed them. No squeaks or anything.

  11. #111
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    thanks for the feed back MikeD. Did you install this exact ones or something else?

  12. #112
    Junior Member thedose's Avatar
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    Has anyone done this on a non-lowered W202?

  13. #113
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    I just want to know if the aluminum sleeves are strong enough for every day use.

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegame View Post
    I just want to know if the aluminum sleeves are strong enough for every day use.
    Yes, use the Coleman Racing aluminum tierod sleeves- they are plenty strong.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegame View Post
    thanks for the feed back MikeD. Did you install this exact ones or something else?
    I bought the exact parts listed in this thread. Not too difficult of a DIY!

  16. #116
    Junior Member thedose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thedose View Post
    Has anyone done this on a non-lowered W202?
    anyone?

  17. #117
    Senior Member Dearlove's Avatar
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    there is no reason you couldn't, but unless for some reason your camber is out there is no point

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by 202brabus View Post
    www.speedwaymotors.com
    Parts list:
    QTY:2 91008001-STR Forged Steel-4 Bar End - 11 Degree Shank
    $12.99 $25.98
    STYLE: Str
    For Part #91008001, do you want the "straight" (STR) or the "11 degree angle" (11)? Both are shown above...
    +mebri
    +c280

  19. #119
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    I thing is srt because if you look at the Current Charge Summary picture on the first page it says style STR

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by mebri View Post
    For Part #91008001, do you want the "straight" (STR) or the "11 degree angle" (11)? Both are shown above...
    Can anyone who's installed the rods confirm? Should it be straight on both ends or does one side need to be angled? Ordered mine with the angled one as posted on page 1

  21. #121
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    After attempting to install, both ends should indeed be straight. hopefully 202Brabus will edit his op so other people won't spend time and money getting the wrong ones!

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by nd4spd13 View Post
    After attempting to install, both ends should indeed be straight. hopefully 202Brabus will edit his op so other people won't spend time and money getting the wrong ones!

    Fixed, thanks
    1986 201.034 5-speed, Evo II wheels
    1986 201.024-w/ 3.2 M104 engine, 5-speed Conversion

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by nd4spd13 View Post
    After attempting to install, both ends should indeed be straight. hopefully 202Brabus will edit his op so other people won't spend time and money getting the wrong ones!
    Thanks. Ordered the straight ones, greased 'em up, installed w/o washers (better fit IMO), no squeaks or clicks. Rear is camber is finally back to factory spec.
    +mebri
    +c280

  24. #124
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    here's a little preview of the camber links I am building. I am still waiting for delivery of my step spacer inserts for the shown right hand rod ends, and the left hand rod ends are also not here yet. they are extremely heavy duty QA1 HML10-12ht unts and I am sleeving them from 5/8" bore down to 1/2" bore and then using the Mezeire taper mount washers flanking both sides of the install against the upright.

    It does not get any more heavy duty then this. these are pretty cuh an all out racing application that will in fact last a long time hitting potholes and such also. The rod ends shown are 55,692 lbs load rated and are HMR-12HT's from QA1

    I put a US currency bill next to them for size reference.
    Attachment 1467

  25. #125
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    Been done already, check these out by Ake rt.



    Bushing types:
    - Normal bush = Mercedes OEM bush
    - 85A light yellow Polyurethane Bush
    - Ball bearing rod end: with maintenance or teflon liner (maintenance free)

    Last edited by 202brabus; 07-31-2013 at 06:47 PM.
    1986 201.034 5-speed, Evo II wheels
    1986 201.024-w/ 3.2 M104 engine, 5-speed Conversion

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