Wheel Studs and Bolts???

[vixen_w202]

I'm thinking about converting my rotors over to a stud setup with some quality anodized bolts.

What companies make a kit for the thread pattern on our rotors and about how much do they run?

Links appreciated, thanks.

[anf6789]

i think ive heard of one person doing this before. not sure the details. why do you want to convert anyway? i believe thread is 12x1.5

[vixen_w202]

i think ive heard of one person doing this before. not sure the details. why do you want to convert anyway? i believe thread is 12x1.5

I have a racetrack less than 10 minutes away from my house...and once I get this thing reliable I'd like to have it track-prepped. The biggest thing I hate is when you take off wheels on our cars then put them back on is the sheer pain/annoyance it takes to get them lined up with the bolt holes and the right weight off the ground. When I go to the track I plan to take off my new 18"s for my stock 15"s that have brand new rubber I really don't care about destroying. With studs, it will make swapping them at the track so much easier.

[wichipong]

thread pattern is 12 x 1.50 mm

not sure the best place to source them but race/tuning shops.

[nhmercracer]

I did this to run W209 wheels with correct ball seat radius nuts. The studs are from Azevodo, but I believe they no longer carry them. You can use a kit for BMW's, as most of them are M12x1.5 like the 202 MB.

Studs come in two types. Cad plated plain steel, and oxide coated high strength steel. I use the black oxide type. They have NO anti corrosion properties, and will rust unless protected from the elements. I use a custom machined titanium nut from TiKore. The nuts I had made are M12x1.5, with the proper M14 radius ball seat. They are very deep to completely cover the entire length of the exposed stud. They were crazy expensive, but still look like new.

Another option would be stock Honda nuts with the plated studs. I used this setup for a while, but didn't like the look.

Keep in mind, the screw-in studs must be checked EVERY TIME you remove a wheel. I started with a single drop of red Loctite, but it is not enough. Now the portion threaded into the hub is liberally coated, and they have remained tight through several removal/installation cycles.

If I were starting this project again, I would have Jegs, or Strange re-drill the hubs to use a M14 press in stud. The backside of the hub needs to be faced parallel to the rotor seat so the studs will seat perpendicular to the face of the hub. Dorman lists several quality M14 press in studs, some with dog points. The cost would have been close to what I spent.