Hi all, I've been a long time creeper of this forum (and in real life), its been very useful in gathering info and now i have a few questions...
First off i have a black, pullied '99 c230 kompressor with 150km (93kmi), owned for 2 years and nothin but bliss, and now same ol'
story... bored of power, wanna turbo...
after wading thru as much info as possible about turbocharging the m111, I feel ive come up with a
relatively inexpensive solution (1500-2g), but im wondering if i can use a boost controller to limit to 10psi, swapping for bigger injectors, a4bar fpr,
while getting away with stock ecu/maybe maf clamping if needed.
I know there is quite a bit of expertise in this field on this forum and i would really appreciate any feedback,thoughts etc.
thanks eh
From what I understand the stock ECU will not be suitable and I don't think clamping the MAF will work either. I reckon too you'd get a far better result with a standalone ECU plus you'd be looking at greater boost pressure too. Krumb or Pagz on here should be able to assist you.
JJJ.
Hi,Originally Posted by Coop
Hi all, I've been a long time creeper of this forum (and in real life), its been very useful in gathering info and now i have a few questions...
First off i have a black, pullied '99 c230 kompressor with 150km (93kmi), owned for 2 years and nothin but bliss, and now same ol'
story... bored of power, wanna turbo...
after wading thru as much info as possible about turbocharging the m111, I feel ive come up with a
relatively inexpensive solution (1500-2g), but im wondering if i can use a boost controller to limit to 10psi, swapping for bigger injectors, a4bar fpr,
while getting away with stock ecu/maybe maf clamping if needed.
I know there is quite a bit of expertise in this field on this forum and i would really appreciate any feedback,thoughts etc.
thanks eh
You don't need a boost controller as the MB ECU will not allow more than 12 PSI of boost. You also don't need bigger injectors if your goal is up to 280-290 PS.
By removing the kompressor you'll instantly gain 35-40 PS because that's what the S/C takes from the engine in order to run.
Wow, that's great news Krum, 280bhp is rather appealing without a standalone ECU. So, what are we exactly looking at to convert to a turbo, obviously beside the turbo itself & ex.manifold? Can the standard S/c boost pressure relief valve be used also or is that just bypassed, as in the ECU is fooled into thinking it's operational?
JJJ.
Haaahahaha J,
I'll tell you in the comming months. Exactly where are the bumps along the way....
I can't wait to hear as in theory it sounds easy, notice the word 'theory'!
JJJ.
Sweet! Thats what I was thinking as well, nice to have some reassurance!
that was my next question, how to go about deleting the stock VDO without the ECU trippin out... I guess you could relocate it and use it in your turbo setup without too much hassle.
Im sure ive read some old threads where someone swapped out the VDO with a BOV. Ill have to keep digging. once thats figured out then I can start amassing parts, as I'd like to do this over the winter ideally.
Coop, another item that I presume will need to fooled is the wiring for the S/c pulley as I recall that's wired inline with the cam positions sensor and the cam adjuster.
JJJ.
I'd have to look at a wiring diagram but I'm sure you could short the vdo for the signal to remain closed and I know lotsa people have gone clutchless with their SC pullies as well, ill dig up a diagram n start dinkin around with my car...being a sparky has its perks I guess...
Looking forward to hearing your progress.
JJJ.
In my opinion you don't need to delete the VDO as it's working perfectly.And it'll work just fine with the turbo setup. But it has to be tested.
As for the S/C it'll be fine if you just dissasemble the magnetic coil from the S/C body and leave it connected. That one also has to be tested.
Wow, Krum you're making this turbo modification seem almost like a straight swap..In my opinion you don't need to delete the VDO as it's working perfectly.
As for the S/C it'll be fine if you just dissasemble the magnetic coil from the S/C body and leave it connected. That one also has to be tested.
JJJ.
P.S. Even if the ECU is not modified it should hold 0.8-0.85 Bar and without the S/C a 35-40 hp gain can be expected not to mention the higher efficiency of the turbo (70-72 % against 52-58 % of the S/C)....
Last edited by KrumB; 10-21-2013 at 07:03 AM.
Sweet, this is lookin better by the minute! So you could move the VDO over to before the throttle body and function as BOV? then the rest is straight swap, aside from custom manifold n piping, with a nice little quick spoolin snail. I wonder what the ecu will do in regard to more boost as some members here managed 1bar with pulley etc. with no issues? ill probably run max 12psi anyways on turbo, just curious. Good to know tho thanks eh
You don't move anything. Probably a BOV can be used as a safety measure.
.....now the BIG question is how will the ECU react to all of the above....
A VERY, VERY good tuner is a must because everything sounds nice and easy but it surely will not be!
....but I intend to find out!
I gotta be missing something then, would you just fit a mechanical BOV as a failsafe for the VDOYou don't move anything. Probably a BOV can be used as a safety measure.
.....now the BIG question is how will the ECU react to all of the above....
A VERY, VERY good tuner is a must because everything sounds nice and easy but it surely will not be!
....but I intend to find out!I thought you might
relocate it to after the IC but before MAF and run a vac line to the other side of the throttle plate
by wiring in a resistor and fooling the ECU into thinking its still there then use mechanical means of boost regulation. But id rather just use it...
I thought the stock ECU tuning ability was virtually nil outside of "performance chips" or remaps (upsolute, eurocharged etc.)
Guys, what sort of money is a good standalone system anyway? It just seems to me that if you're going turbo and want to take advantage of the low compression 230K lump the investment in a standalone really looks the way to go.
JJJ.
depends on what your looking for, full standalone can get very pricy (1000's) but for a low boost application like this I think piggyback is the way to go personally.. I think I'll go with an aem f/ic unit just for engine management (300-600$), that way you can wire it according to your application and still retain all the stock non engine related functions of the car. But that's if we can't figure out a way around it using stock ecu lol.
I believe that a custom ECU tune is achievable but if not an AEM piggy-back is the way to go as it can emulate needed/expected from the ECU signal and it's low cost.
Krum, how difficult is it to wire in the piggyback and get the basic parameters set up?
JJJ.
John, if you have the ECU wiring diagram it's not that hard but for tuning the engine you HAVE to know what you're doing.
The aem units come preloaded with a basic map so you can start your car and drive it (out of boost) to the tuner as well.
Yep, I reckoned that. Using a set of instructions first time round wouldn't be the way to go, well not for me anyway.tuning the engine you HAVE to know what you're doing.
JJJ.
O.k, that's good to know and could save a lot of hassle.
JJJ.
Now, an important question. If I had smaller S/c pulley plus the large 220mm crank pulley that's already fitted, no porting of S/c and standard I.C. would my car benefit much from fitting a piggyback - any ideas?
JJJ.
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