Rear subframe lateral brace

[Vetruck]

Just made a quick and easy lateral rear subframe brace from some 1/8" x 2 1/2" aluminum flat bar. Probably should have gone 3/16" or even 1/4" flat bar, but this is all the place had in stock at the moment- so consider this a template at the very least. Getting cleaned up and will go out and test it since I have somewhere I need to be by 8pm.

Here's a few shots I took with the cell phone.





You can see here on the left side it easily clears the exhaust so there is no contact or rattling when hot and expanded


It parallels the inner subframe wall and boxes the double shear mount tabs of the rear control arm bolts to eliminate inward flexing between the left and right rear mount holes.

[Dearlove]

I'll post pics of mine too when I get it back

[Vetruck]

While is hard to drive one handed and trying to look at the camera, here's a video of the car tonight going into a freeway cloverleaf onramp (posted 35mph) at 54mph up around and onto the freeway. You can see my one hand on the wheel not sawing at it at all anymore. I am happy to report this brace took ALL of the rear flex bobble out of the car when set into a corner.

A very inexpensive and very worthy suspension brace that took all of about $25 and about 2 hours.

O used the aluminum stock as stated above (size wise), then 4pcs stainless 5/16-18 x 1" allen head bolts, 4pcs 5/16" stainless flat washers, 4pcs 5/16" zinc lock washers, and 4- 5/16"-18 stainless nylock nuts. Remember to put a little grease on the thread so they do not seize.

I cut the stock just shy of the outer braket lengths. It was aprox 23" long when finished with angle cuts going down to the bottom half being about 2" shorter.

The subframe has two smaller location holes about 3/16" from the factory I drilled out to 5/16", and the spread on those two were aprox 20 3/4" apart. I then drilled and mounted it with two bolts, after that preceeded to drill the bottom bolt holes with the unit fixed in place to the subframe (drilled through both subframe and bracket at the same time) to insure good alignment of bolts 3 & 4.

http://youtu.be/2LzUejxRz2k

[Vetruck]

..and yes I see the coolant light on the dash. The reservoir is a little low and the light will come on when cornering hard- goes right back off in a few seconds of driving straight.

[RemoLexi]

It's the oil level light that will come on next! I had to fab a thin aluminium baffle at the bottom of the oil pan to keep the oil from climbing up the block walls!

[Vetruck]

I always overfill all my cars by a half quart for that very reason so I never cavitate the pump.

[RemoLexi]

If you don't track it, you'll be fine. But if you do, I think you will see that oil level light come on frequently.

First track day with my C36 I had that light on for over half of a 3 mile lap at thunderhill. I knew for the level to register back took a while, but non the less, a scary feeling. If you don't feel like the hassle of removing the oil pan and making a baffle, you can install and aftermarket oil pressure gauge to watch if pressure actually drops if the low oil light ever comes on. I think I have the correct fittings and a gauge around.

[Vetruck]

Here's a sustained 1g corner entering a 90* sweeper onramp. It is sitting in corner set well long enough the light is not coming on. I assure you even though the video looks smooth , it is pulling 1g @ 75mph around it. I am actually tapping the brakes as the video is coming to an end to start slowing to merge/

Maybe the little C220 motor has a better pan configuration.
http://youtu.be/QvIE7dw6bpc

Edit to add: I hit this onramp many times a week , it is by my house. Before this brace I just installed, this car would not corner this smooth and I would have to saw at the wheel over 60mph in this same corner. This brace reall firmed the rear flex bigtime. You see how easy my hand is on the wheel almost effortless.

[RemoLexi]

Yea it may have a better pan/case configuration, for a 4-cyl they hold quite a large amount of oil (almost same as 6 cyl!)

Rascal flats eh?

[piko]

Great find!
That brace is now definatelly my next mod. Looking at the rear axle it's really missing a brace there.
As for the oil level light, it scared me the first time, I thought it was the oil pressure....

[vaspen]

sweetness this should technically work for a 230 right lol can you get a side shot of the bar ? and the mounting brackets

[Vetruck]

There is no mounting bracket. its an aluminum plate as described in the first post. Drill the top mount holes the distances apart I listed in the first post, drill the OEM bracket holes out to the smae hole size I listed, you feed it up into there behind the brakets and push the fiorst two bolts through and tighten them down. Then drill the lower ones on each side making for 4 total mount bolts just like you see in the pictures. quite easy. no need for a side shot, it's all there in black and white,

[vaspen]

ight I got cha, sorry I didn't notice it lol
so pretty much just a steel plate to take movement out I think I can do that haha thanks for the info