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Thread: DYI camber arms

  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    DYI camber arms

    Spent 3 hours last night replacing my stock dogbone w/ Jeffs arms. Youll need 18mm & 17mm hardware, some nick nacks like a flathead, crescent wrench maybe & beer. Here are some pics...

    This gives you an idea of the size of the arms. Imo the fluid in the green bottle between the 2 arms is the most important tool youll need for the job...
    http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...3/fa960a23.jpg

    1st step, spray wd-40 on the bolts & get the inboard 18mm stuff loose. I was able to do it w/ 3/4" closed end wrench w/minimal persuasion. I had to use a socket or another open end 18mm/3/4" wrench to hold the bolt while I unthreaded the nut.
    http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...c/fa960a14.jpg

    2nd step, get the 17mm stuff loose on the hub side. This was easier than the inboard side by far. Tap the hub bolt out(it might push out). After this you can work the arm around so the inboard bolt will just push out with your finger.
    http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...d/fa960a0d.jpg

    You'll have to pull the hub assembly towards yourself to get the inboard side to yank the dogbone out. You'll figure it out.
    http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...f/fa9609fb.jpg

    3rd step, install the new arm. This photo shows how you should 'build' the arm on the hub side. I used a thin coat of bearing grease on the spacers & stuff. It serves a dual purpose of keeping them from falling out while you position the arm & lubing moving parts... http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...0/fa9609e9.jpg

    Here is how the hub side will look. 3 washers is a perfect fit. 1mm sperates the end of the bolt(threaded end) and the A-arm. Its a close fit but its cool...
    http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...9/fa960a1b.jpg

    Tighten up the inboard side & use your best judgement is 'eyeballing' your camber. Snug up the jam nuts and put your wheels back on & go get an alignment! http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...f/fa9609e4.jpg

    Back view of my rear suspension...
    http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...e/fa960a12.jpg

    I would not pay anyone to do this install. I hear people are being quoted 3 hours labor to put these in. Yhea it took me 3 hours but I saved $250 bucks. I started at 9pm & was done by midnight. All I could think to myself while doing this swap was Damn, I'm the only dude in the USA tonight improving the suspension on a handbuilt, AMG car! HeHe.
    1996 C36 /////AMG..(sold).....now rolling an \'05 EVO VIII

  2. #2
    3.6,

    Nice job on the write up. How is the ride with the new arms?

    It looks like everything fit up correctly.

    Jeff
    1999 C43 Obsidian Black; Penske Remote Adjustable Shocks; Adjustable Spring Perches; SSR Comp Wheels, 9.5 & 9.5x17\"; Custom 31.75mm front & 19mm rear swaybar; Ported Manifold; Limited Slip Differential, Headers and race Cats, Other Stuff

  3. #3
    Thanks for the info 3P6,
    Are those new bolts you used for the install? If so do you know the size I should buy before I start? Also are those Stainless washers?
    WTS
    1999 C43

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    Speedy,

    I can tell the ride is different, more movement in back, but only slightly & I'm not aligned yet so we will see next week how it feels. I think my toe is off also right now because of the arms.


    toemend,

    Those are the stock bolts I re-used and washers are plain jain stamped steel. Nothing wrong with using that stuff though.
    1996 C36 /////AMG..(sold).....now rolling an \'05 EVO VIII

  5. #5
    Moderator
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    nicejob mang!! tell us how they are feeling in like a week or something
    BAN HIS ASS!!
    744 C36 AMG- carlsson
    040 C43- way to many modifications
    744 CLK55- even more mods
    CLS55 IWC edition
    744 CLK500 Rocket Bunny widebody

  6. #6
    CKlasse
    Guest
    Great job!!! I cant wait til I get to do this! I am waiting for some bushings!

  7. #7
    The new arms allow the rear suspension to move more freely because of the new bearings, where the stock camber arms rely on rotating the stock rubber bushings.

    I also noticed that the car seems to corner with a little more locked in feeling, as the camber is fixed now.

    Jeff
    1999 C43 Obsidian Black; Penske Remote Adjustable Shocks; Adjustable Spring Perches; SSR Comp Wheels, 9.5 & 9.5x17\"; Custom 31.75mm front & 19mm rear swaybar; Ported Manifold; Limited Slip Differential, Headers and race Cats, Other Stuff

  8. #8
    Senior Member
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    All of your hardware is metric right? I just don't have many standard tools. I havent bought a standard tool in five years.

    They look pretty sharp (nice).

  9. #9
    The Camber Arms use your stock bolts and nuts. So yes all the hardware is metric. You need 18mm wrench and 19mm wrench and depending on which bolt MB used on the hub side maybe a 12mm, 12 point socket.

    Jeff
    1999 C43 Obsidian Black; Penske Remote Adjustable Shocks; Adjustable Spring Perches; SSR Comp Wheels, 9.5 & 9.5x17\"; Custom 31.75mm front & 19mm rear swaybar; Ported Manifold; Limited Slip Differential, Headers and race Cats, Other Stuff

  10. #10
    Junior Member
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    what happened tp the pics

  11. #11
    Senior Member
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    its not letting me see the f@#*ing pics.

  12. #12
    In Charge
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    There is a typical problem with imagestation and pic hosting. I would suggest emailing 3.6 to ask he has pics saved elsewhere, or ask him to post pics on another hosting site and update his DIY.
    1998 C43
    1994 C280 (Retired)

    "Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication." - da Vinci

  13. #13
    OG Moderator kameraguy's Avatar
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    If the pics aren't working when you click the link, right-click the URL and copy the shortcut. Paste this link to a browser window and the pic should work

  14. #14
    Senior Member
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    swwweeet, the pics work. thanks good job

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