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Thread: 1995 AMG C36 frame on restoration project car

  1. #1
    Junior Member Edward SB's Avatar
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    1995 AMG C36 frame on restoration project car

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ID:	3002Hi there I am new to this site,

    I am currently working on fixing up a 1995 AMG C36, see video links below.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bckbn5Zn7RU

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DT7XHpfTgU

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaNMolj5wxY

    I rebuilt the transmission, and fixed all oil leak in the engine, replaced all hydraulic lifters and cam chain tensioner.....

    the M104 easy and fun to work on, the transmission is not....I love the car...iron block straight 6's rule
    Last edited by Edward SB; 05-09-2016 at 10:03 PM. Reason: new video added

  2. #2
    Senior Member John Jones Jr.'s Avatar
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    The C36 is my favourite W202. Yours is looking good. Keep posting.
    JJJ.

  3. #3
    Junior Member Edward SB's Avatar
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    Thanks, I appreciate that..

    I am dreaming to do something special with the engine....

  4. #4
    Senior Member John Jones Jr.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward SB View Post
    Thanks, I appreciate that..

    I am dreaming to do something special with the engine....
    You're more than welcome.

    I've considered buying a C36 in the past on several occasions but sadly never found the right car. I also considered modifications and when it came to the engine the only thing I fancied was fitting standalone ECU and throttle bodies, along with getting the engine balanced and a maybe a bit cylinder head porting. One other item on the list was to fit a manual transmission. But that was it as I don't think they really need much modification and I wouldn't have liked to stray too far away from the original anyway as they were the first official AMG's.
    JJJ.

  5. #5
    Junior Member Edward SB's Avatar
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    Hi, yes the iron block is something special. I worked on it a little bit and fell in love with the quality of the cylinder head it deserves a better intake system. I saw some pics on the net where Carlsson tuning put like a M5 bmw intake systems on the car it made something 380hp. but what I think I want to do is put in a turbo kit from turbobandit.com they are not too expensive and well I kinda of like the idea that a stock 722.4 transmission can handle 1200hp for 5 years without a mechanical failure.

    I want this car, but this guy wants like 24k to build the engine, the kits is only $4k if you do it yourself?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dqaWEVHHFhg

    I want 1000 HP...

  6. #6
    Junior Member Edward SB's Avatar
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    Last edited by Edward SB; 02-13-2016 at 10:23 PM. Reason: new video

  7. #7
    Senior Member MikeD's Avatar
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    That paint job is looking great! I can't wait to see the car reassembled.

    Which method did you use to repair the timing cover seal leak?

  8. #8
    Junior Member Edward SB's Avatar
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    I remove upper timing cover cleaned it and inspected mating surfaces, you will find small pitting on the timing cover matting surfaces this I suspect is due to age and previous repairs. I actually cleaned up the mating surfaces on the cover by lightly sanding them on a pice of wet sanding paper that I taped on a glass table...the surfaces were uneven and pitted...I used Permanex I also bought the Mercedes gasket maker that was recommended by the dealer it was very similar to the Permanex but it's a thinner consistency.

    I found the Permanex was not only thicker but it was more difficult to clean up with solvents, that stuff is think sticky and resilient.

    I also replaced the upper to lower gasket with an actually Mercedes Benz gasket, I actually bought the gasket from pelicanparts


    http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ENGCAM_pg2.htm

    Gasket - Front Cover to Crankcase
    Part #: 104-015-02-20-M30

    This is the gasket I replaced

  9. #9
    Junior Member Edward SB's Avatar
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    I remove upper timing cover cleaned it and inspected mating surfaces, you will find small pitting on the timing cover matting surfaces this I suspect is due to age and previous repairs. I actually cleaned up the mating surfaces on the cover by lightly sanding them on a pice of wet sanding paper that I taped on a glass table...the surfaces were uneven and pitted...I used Permanex I also bought the Mercedes gasket maker that was recommended by the dealer it was very similar to the Permanex but it's a thinner consistency.

    I found the Permanex was not only thicker but it was more difficult to clean up with solvents, that stuff is think sticky and resilient.

    I also replaced the upper to lower gasket with an actually Mercedes Benz gasket, I actually bought the gasket from pelicanparts


    http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ENGCAM_pg2.htm

    Gasket - Front Cover to Crankcase
    Part #: 104-015-02-20-M30

    This is the gasket I replaced

  10. #10
    Senior Member MikeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward SB View Post
    I remove upper timing cover cleaned it and inspected mating surfaces, you will find small pitting on the timing cover matting surfaces this I suspect is due to age and previous repairs. I actually cleaned up the mating surfaces on the cover by lightly sanding them on a pice of wet sanding paper that I taped on a glass table...the surfaces were uneven and pitted...I used Permanex I also bought the Mercedes gasket maker that was recommended by the dealer it was very similar to the Permanex but it's a thinner consistency.

    I found the Permanex was not only thicker but it was more difficult to clean up with solvents, that stuff is think sticky and resilient.

    I also replaced the upper to lower gasket with an actually Mercedes Benz gasket, I actually bought the gasket from pelicanparts


    http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ENGCAM_pg2.htm

    Gasket - Front Cover to Crankcase
    Part #: 104-015-02-20-M30

    This is the gasket I replaced
    Thank you for the link! This job has been on my to-do list for quite some time

  11. #11
    Junior Member Edward SB's Avatar
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ID:	2989Hi There,

    Just wanted to mention what I went through to get to the changing the timing chain gasket....

    1. remove radiator support bracket hood latching mechanism and cabling, removed the radiator and a/c condensor, all cooling hoses from the engine.{ this is to allow easy access to front of the engine, you should refresh the cooling system while you are at it }
    2. now you should have access to the v-belt and all the pulleys, { easiest way to remove all of this is to pull the power steering pump pulley }
    3. remove all idler pulley wheels and replace if bearings are blow out
    4. clean whole area from greasy oil I used 5 gal of gasoline
    5. Replace all cooling system hoses, they are super cheap on rock auto and pelican parts, replace the thermostat while you have all this apart.
    6. remove and clean coil packs and plugs { label everything with masking tape marker }
    7. remove valve cover , all vacuum lines and egr valve actuator { take picture of everything document how vac hoses are plumed }
    8. remove upper timing chain cover, { replace timing chain tensioner while you are here, it is only $50, timing chain should be fine }
    9. clean everything with gasoline then carb cleaner
    10. you may not need to remove lower timing chain cover, lower one hardly ever leaks...The oil leak is usually from the rubber between the upper and lower chain cover
    11. apply permanex gasket maker to all surfaces and reassemble
    Last edited by Edward SB; 04-12-2016 at 03:08 AM.

  12. #12
    Junior Member Edward SB's Avatar
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    Just wanted to mention what I went through to get to the changing the timing chain gasket....

    Hi There,

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    1. remove radiator support bracket hood latching mechanism and cabling, removed the radiator and a/c condensor, all cooling hoses from the engine.{ this is to allow easy access to front of the engine, you should refresh the cooling system while you are at it }
    2. now you should have access to the v-belt and all the pulleys, { easiest way to remove all of this is to pull the power steering pump pulley }
    3. remove all idler pulley wheels and replace if bearings are blow out
    4. clean whole area from greasy oil I used 5 gal of gasoline
    5. Replace all cooling system hoses, they are super cheap on rock auto and pelican parts, replace the thermostat while you have all this apart.
    6. remove and clean coil packs and plugs { label everything with masking tape marker }
    7. remove valve cover , all vacuum lines and egr valve actuator { take picture of everything document how vac hoses are plumed }
    8. remove upper timing chain cover, { replace timing chain tensioner while you are here, it is only $50, timing chain should be fine }
    9. clean everything with gasoline then carb cleaner
    10. you may not need to remove lower timing chain cover, lower one hardly ever leaks...The oil leak is usually from the rubber between the upper and lower chain cover
    11. apply permanex gasket maker to all surfaces and reassemble
    Last edited by Edward SB; 04-10-2016 at 08:30 PM.

  13. #13
    Junior Member Edward SB's Avatar
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ID:	2986more pics of the jobClick image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Edward SB; 04-12-2016 at 03:00 AM.

  14. #14
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    1995 AMG C36 frame on restoration project car

    Whatever treatment of the back of the car individuals settle on will probably need a bit of additional height over the rear guards and upper rear frame rails so that the engine wont need to protrude through the engine cover.

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